Disassembly And Upgrade Guide For The Maruzen APS-2 Sniper Version v0.01
Written and researched by Mu|Dv|Ay|Ne - last updated Wednesday, October 3, 2001 9:12 PM



This guide is aimed to give you all the information you need to fully disassemble and upgrade the Maruzen APS-2 Sniper Rifle.

APS-2 SV Statistics (before upgrades)
Manufacturer: Maruzen
Product: Air Precision Shooting-2 Sniper Version
Type: Sniper Rifle
Caliber: .236 Inches/6 Millimeter
Operation: Bolt Action
Power: Spring
Length: 1,050 Millimeters/41-43 Inches (Adjustable Stock)
Weight: 2,500 Grams
Barrel Length: 400 Millimeter
Barrel Diameter: 6.05 Millimeter
Range: 50 meters
Velocity: 274 Feet Per Second/83.5 Meters Per Second
Power: 0.98 Joules/0.36 Kilograms Per Minute/Centimeter Square
Capacity: 25 bb's Box Magazine
Metal Parts: Barrel, Receiver, Bolt, Flash Hider, Sling Stud, Sling Swivels, Trigger, Various Internals.

Basic Information The APS-2 Sniper Version is the shortest of all the APS guns built, its barrel is around 15cm shorter than the OR. Produced by Maruzen the APS-2 SV had widely become known for its range, accuracy, durability and most of all the wide range of upgrades widely becoming available for it.
The gun is fairy simple as it comprises of only 2 separate parts, the stock and the firing mechanism itself.

How The APS-2 SV works Just Pull back the bolt at the rear of the gun to feed in the first bb. With the aid of simple manpower, a piston head within a cylinder moves backwards to draw air into the cylinder and compresses the spring behind the piston. At the end of the piston head's travel, a sear which engages the piston and holds it in place with the spring at full compression. When the trigger is pulled, the sear releases the piston, pushed forward by the spring. The air pressure which was built up in the cylinder creates a jet of air which propels the bb and sends it through the inner barrel and out towards the target.

List Of Parts (can vary according to upgrades)
* Stock - All 1 piece (2 if you include the trigger guard) and very simple, made out of high quality ABS plastic and hardened rubber for the butt. The butt is adjustable to about an extra 5cm.

* Trigger Guard - 1 piece component made of ABS plastic the trigger guard screws into the stock and protects the trigger from damage.

* Outer Barrel - 40cm in length the outer barrel screws into the receiver of the gun, this barrel houses the inner barrel and the fixed hop-up chamber.

* Inner Barrel & Hop-Up Chamber - Fits inside the outer barrel, this is where the bb travels down after the bb is fired from the chamber. At one end is the fixed hop-up chamber which gives the bb backspin causing it to have a longer and more accurate flight path.

* Flash Hider - 14.5cm the flash hider is mainly for realistic effect as it is featured on the real steel Steyr SSG PIV. The flash hider is afew millimeters wider than the outer barrel which gives it a nice look but serves no real purpose in the operation of the gun.

* Bolt Handle - Lies towards the back of the gun in line with the trigger. The bolt handle is made from steel to give it more strength, as this is probably the most used part of the gun as it is cycled to feed the first bb from the magazine to the chamber.

* Bolt - The metal bolt on the APS-2 acts just like the real steel version as it feeds in a single round everytime it is cycled.

* Trigger Mechanism - complex component made of only metal, the trigger which sticks through the trigger guard is connected to the trigger mechanism which lies directly under the bolt. When pulled the trigger releases the cycled spring which fires the bb.

* Spring - Is pulled back by the bolt and then held in position by the piston until the trigger is pulled causing it to shoot forward and fire out the bb.

* Spring guide - Component used to ensure that the spring doesnt bend or get damaged when firing, means the bb gets the full force of the spring when fired.

* Piston - Cycled with the cylinder when the bolt is pulled the piston holds the spring in its compressed position.

* Piston Head - Placed at the end of the cylinder the piston head is drawn backwards and draws air into the cylinder and compresses the spring behind the piston.

* Cylinder - Holds the piston ready for firing, is drawn backwards to hold the spring in position.

Disassembly

*Note* It is a good idea to remove all external accessories such as scopes and mounts when disassembling and upgrading your gun because these parts can get in the way or get damaged. Also remove the magazine and make sure the chamber is clear of any ammunition.

Disassembly Of The Outer Components This is a simple guide which gives you the instructions on how to fully disassemble the stock, flash hider, outer barrel, in other words all the parts which dont effect the firing of the gun.

Stock - Very simple as it is made up of only 2 separate pieces the stock itself and the trigger guard. When the gun is bought you are required to fit the stock to the assembly yourself, this is easy all you have to do is to find the 2 screws with the hex key slot in the top, they are in a sealed bag when buy the gun, all you have to do is to use the hex key which came with the gun and screw the large screw in the hole just behind the trigger on the back of the trigger guard and the small screw into the hold just behind the magazine port. It is very important that you do not get these 2 screws mixed up because if you screw the larger screw into the front hole the gun will be damaged and will not fire.

Trigger Guard - To unscrew the trigger guard firstly you must unscrew the large screw which fixes the stock to the receiver, this is found at the back of the trigger guard, just use the hex key to remove this. then remove the small stock screw found just behind the magazine port. When that is done gently push up on the flash hider and outer barrel so that there is a gap between the outer barrel and the stock, then gently push with your thumb against the back of the bolt which loosens the assembly and then slowly lift the assembly out of the stock making sure that you dont catch the trigger when lifting it out of the trigger guard. Now take a look inside the stock where the trigger assembly was, at the front of the trigger guard there is a small screw which needs to be removed, then the trigger guard can be removed.

Flash Hider - Screw the flash hider anti-clockwise away from the outer barrel, the thread is fairy fine on the whole of the guns components so take care not to try and pull at the flash hider or cross thread it.

Outer Barrel - Just like the flash hider, all you need to do is to unscrew the barrel anti-clockwise and pull away from the receiver, the thread on here is also thin and it takes a fair bit of unscrewing to detach the outer barrel.

Bolt Handle - Simply lay the gun on its left side so that the bolt handle is sticking up into the air, on the underside of the handle there is a small hex key hole which using your hex key you should be able to disassemble the bolt handle.

Disassembly Of The Inner Components Another quick guide to how to disassemble your gun, however these parts are all the internals of the gun which are responsible for the firing of the gun, so take note of this guide as making a mistake could lead to damage or loss of parts within your gun. Simply follow the steps and you should be able to fully disassemble and upgrade the internals of the APS-2.

Step 1 - First of all use your hex key to remove the 2 screws behind the magazine port and at the back of the trigger guard, then separate the stock and assembly gently to prevent damage to the trigger.

Step 2 - Take hold of the outer barrel and unscrew it from the receiver anti-clockwise.

Step 3 - Flip the bolt handle up, behind the rear of the bolt there is a screw that can be removed using your hex key, careful not to lose this screw or the washer.

Step 4 - Remove the rear of the bolt. When removing the bolt handle assembly watch out for the small tab which slips easily in and out. Be sure to keep this tab for reassembly.

Step 5 - Now that you have done that, take a look at the trigger assembly, unscrew the 2 screws at either ends of the trigger assembly to remove it from the receiver. Be sure to look at the 2 little springs around the steel piece and remember what position they are in, if these are not put back in the same way as they were the piston will not be held back when the bolt is cycled.

Step 6 - Take a look back at the cocking cylinder where you unscrewed the outer barrel, the piston head has 2 holes on either side. Now take the shorter end of the hex key and place it in 1 of the holes now turn until the longer end is touching the brass nozzle. It is now possible to screw in the appropriate direction to remove the piston head. Be Careful if you have a upgraded spring in your gun it will shoot out of the end, along with the piston. Aim onto something which you dont mind getting grease on.

Step 7 - Now simply remove whatever internal part you want, and if you want to upgrade your gun simply replace the old parts with the new ones and then reassemble.

Upgrading Stock the APS-2 SV has an average fps (feet per second) rate of around 274 which is by no means underpowered, but if you want your rifle to fire like a true sniper rifle there are many options which can give the rifle more fps, range, accuracy and durability.

*Note* The below upgrades are all the upgrades I got put in my APS-2 SV, there are more available but with these I got a fps of around 530, which is 30fps over the legal limit in the UK. The gun is also fully reinforced which is crucial if you are going to upgrade your APS-2 to high powers, as more powerful parts put more stress on the internals of the gun which in time can get damaged.

OK - 6.03MM Internal Barrel for APS-2 ( 599mm ) - £56

PDI - Hop-Up Chamber for APS2 - £31
- Vacuum Piston V3 for APS-2 - £42
- Steel Spring Guide for APS-2 *Reinforced* - £15
- Adjustable Hop-up Chamber for APS-2 - £31
- Cylinder Set R Level 3 for APS-2 *Reinforced* - £109

First Factory - PSS2 Taper Cylinder Head for APS-2 - £17
- PSS2 Piston Head for APS-2 - £9
- PSS2 Zero Trigger Set for APS-2 *Reinforced* - £121
- Bolt Handle for APS-2 *Reinforced* - £44
- PSS2 210 Spring for APS-2 - £22

Accessories There are plenty of accessories available for the APS-2 series including:

Maruzen - 25 Round Magazine for APS-2 - £10
- APS Grandmaster 0.29g 500 rounds bb's - £10

K2 - 30mm x 235mm Silencer for APS-2 SV - £36

Carrot - ORCA Polymer Stock for APS-2 - £200

Tasco - High Mount Rings - £9
- 3x9 - 40mm Illuminated Cross Reticle Scope - £35

Straight - 0.30g 1200 rounds bb's - £9
- 0.36g 1000 rounds bb's - £10
- 0.43g 1000 rounds bb's - £13

KM - Small 1200 rounds bb bottle - £2
- Sniper Rifle Sling - £9

Mil force - 44inch Rifle Bag - £24

*Note* All of these upgrades and accessories can be bought for the shown prices from Wargamers Club. Scroll Down the left hand window to find the link.

Maintenance Maintenance of these is by far the simplest out of all Airsoft models. Because of the simplicity of the APS-2, and nearly all bolt action rifles the only real problem that you are likely to encounter is jammed bb's, this is when you get bb's blocked in the inner barrel of the gun causing the gun not to fire. However this problem is simple to fix, all you have to do is to use the provided cleaning rod and gently push it down the barrel to unblock the jammed bb's. It's not a good idea to use the previously jammed bb's as they can often be misshapen when jammed in the barrel of the gun. One of the most important maintenance factors for the APS-2 I have found is the lubrication of the bolt, spraying a small amount of silicon spray Not petroleum based lubricants on the bolt and other movable parts ensures that there is no catching or additional stress on the gun which could cause damage in later stages. It's also a good idea to spray a small amount of silicon spray on the internals of the such as the hop-up rubber (if equipped) this ensures that the bb is caught with the desired amount of pressure to give the bb enough backspin to increase its range. You may notice that the gun's range and accuracy has changed slightly, this is due to the lubricant working its way through the gun and will quickly be worn away by the firing of the gun.

For anymore information or to see my teams website please visit: http://web.onetel.net.uk/~cairocamel/

Thanks.

Mu|Dv|Ay|Ne

Comment on this article in the forums


This page last updated: Wednesday, October 3, 2001 9:12 PM

Copyright 2001Arnie's Airsoft.