DeltaZero Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 +1 for the Kydex Holsters from Predator Gear I have a holster and two of his Kydex wallets.. awesome quality. One of the best kydex holsters I've got! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Friggen finally got my Glock 19 GEN3 from KIC! Full marking WE Glock 19 GEN3, woop woop! I tried to co-ordinate with KIC to get a fully matched serial number set, on the slide, barrel and serial number plate. The preview pics they sent me of the gun had the barrel matching the slide. Turns out mine doesn't. The serial plates I had them custom make has the incorrect (they look great though!), earlier communicated serial number on it. Might be my fault there for not being more clear. I am hoping to sort it out with them after the fact. I think it will work out, KIC is KIC is Jessica after all Excited to get the GEN3 SAI frame going and trying out all my upgrade parts in this! But damn, the GEN3 frame feels really fat compared to the GEN4 one! Width wise! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Blurry as *fruitcage*... but still And regarding parts I can report the following: Guarder hammer, sear, valve knocker and valve-reset knocker will work. Reset knocker required some minor filing to slide smoothly. UAC trigger bar seems to be causing problems for me, will have to check into that some more. (Locks up slide when racking, and also like 0.1lbs trigger puill.... pew pew !) Guarder magazine works, for TM system (Glock 19). Guarder magazine release works. Guarder slide catch works. Guarder spring kit works. Posted here as well: http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/214445-we-glock-19-compatability-with-tm-glock-parts/ Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Got word from KIC this morning. They got a barrel with the right serial number and will get me two new serial number plates as well so I get my matching kit Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Looks like I will have to retract my statement on the Guarder steel hammer parts for now. Installed stock trigger bar and still a little iffy. Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 As for my build, here's a little update: -The Guns modify zero hammer assembly caused problems, don't know if it was compatible with the blow-back housing or something, so I have the stock one for now with the Action hammer bearing set 9mm and it works great -The "gold " Guns modify trigger bar didn't work correctly so I used the Guarder one and it works great. The gold one is installed on my new SAI G17 and it works flawlessly... -I installed the Maple Leaf hop up adjuster wheel and the I key, haven't tested it out yet so much but KnucklesGSM seemed pleased with it so I trust his judgement http://www.ebairsoft.com/maple-leaf-pistol-p-8028.html -The flat trigger from Ready fighter is really nice, the trigger safety is a lot smoother than the Ace one arms one. -The ready fighter magazine base is a nice touch and gives the gun a nice balance, the mag also drops a lot faster when you press the mag release -I bought a RS Mag release and it needed some customization but it works, still not a perfect fit so i will probably change it back to the WE one... Newest build: Waiting for my Gen 4 lower to arrive with a set of RS beaver tail back-straps, also ordered a magwell for the gen 4 with the M backstrap from ebay, we'll see how that works. Internally its almost the same as the G19... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 DJ, on your Glock 19 with single fire internals, with the gun cocked, does your trigger lock back to the rear just before the trigger breaks and hammer drops? I am getting like a double-reset thingy on mine. Cock the gun, pull the trigger to the rear, and I hear a click, release the trigger, and it stays back, even with hammer cocked, which it shouldn't. Then if I pull all the way back it breaks and fires. Bothers me like crazy and can't figure out why? On the G23 internals it doesn't do this... but those internals are pretty different with the trigger bar so I dunnoz... Also the slide to frame offset of 0.5mm is driving me nuts. How to fix? Link to the Maple Leaf hop up adjuster wheel ? Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 Hmm, same problem with both my WE G19. One with the Guns modify sai trigger & original trigger bar, and the other with the Ready fighter & the guarder trigger bar. Both with original hammer set... Wonder if its the Trigger that causes that problem? About that weird offset, On the costa G19 I have the original slide lock and I don't have that issue, on the RMR G19 I have the guns modify slide lock and not a big issue there either. http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=category&item=MLTW-P-HPAW-TM&search=special&rs=Hop-Up%20Chamber&catid=&cat=761&view_choice=b http://www.airsofttaiwan.com/shop/goods.php?id=913 http://www.strikerairsoft.se/leverantorer/spartan/maple-leaf-hop-up-adjustment-wheel-for-marui-we.html Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 Wrong thread. Ignore. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 Not sure if it's a problem as much as it is a bug Glad it's not just mine. But annoying, you get that double click thingy. I tried it with complete stock and SAI trigger and what not and still same thing. The issue seems to stem from the rear of the trigger bar locking against the sear some how. My brain can't compute what's going on behind the frame when it happens though... Both with my stock slide lock and Guarder one I have a noticeable offset. Not sure why that is on mine ? Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 It's because the trigger bar is lifting into the notch of the hammer housing before it trips the sear. The red part marks the original notch. I had the same problem using a WE housing, but fixed it by cutting/bending some steel sheet and epoxying it. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 Excellent, many thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
icolater Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 The steel hammer housing from uac might fix that problem. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Does it work in a WE Glock 19 though ? UAC hammer housing, guarder parts, uac trigger bar, that would be nice, but think it's not likely to work right. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Got my new stuff from KIC. Outer barrel with ART818 serial, and two new serial plates (old and new style) with ART818. I only had to pay for the two new plates, 6 USD each. Barrel, marking service and shipping were complementary of KIC since it was kind of a screw up on their end. But all things considered, what an amazing shop! Also, picture of my gun with the silencer on... I dunno, it just doesn't "look right", does it? Link to post Share on other sites
icolater Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Looks great!! All you need to do now is stipple the frame, or be lazy and buy one from OCT (that's what I would do). Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Thanks! Nah I'm gonna stipple it myself. I got a sacrificial Stark Glock 18 frame to try on, the UAC stippling tool and decent tools. Gotta try it sometime Link to post Share on other sites
icolater Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 I'm going to stipple my stark sai, I got another just incase I mess up. The uac stippling tool is a must to get the sai style stippling I think, I was looking at pictures and videos last night and sai glocks have squarish shaped stippling, uneven as well. So that uac tool is needed, but I have also heard it's very shallow so if to much pressure is applied it gives you a square outline. What are you going to use to stipple a boarder. Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 I think sai use custom wood burning tools for their stippeling jobs. They are more round in their shape than square or these: http://www.brownells-sverige.se/epages/Sverige.sf/sv_SE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Sverige/Products/00396080061012/SubProducts/080061016 Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 I've been to the SAI facility a few times now. I checked out their stipple station. Their tips are essentially the same as the one you have pictured above. They have multiple tips with the same pattern. Some are full tips, some are partial tips with 90° cut into them so they can do edges and corners easily. But the technique is all the same. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 LOL, just tried stippling my spare SA Glock 17/18C frame with the UAC tool. It went pretty badly. First 10 presses were OK. Then the tool gunked up with melted polymer and it all went to *suitcase*. wtf? Also pretty sure I got cancer from the fumes. :| Considering my "condition" (OCD) I should probably just leave this alone regardless... Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 You will need a wire brush, to clean the head when you get build up. I put a wire brush in a nearby vice and clean the stippling tip when needed. Also, do it in a well ventilated space or at least have a fan blowing across the work area to disperse the fumes from going directly to you. It'll also help the soldering iron/wood burner from overheating. Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 +1 on the fan, that's a life saver when you stipple for a couple of hours;) Great tip on the wire brush... I just bought a cheap wood burner tool with multple tips that i will modify with a dremel and a small triangular file to make one like the picture I posted before... I will also try to make one with a 90 degree corner. Any other tip that I should have in mind uscmCorps? Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 • Take one of those tips with a large circular face. File/sand the entire pattern off it. Take a checkering file and cut a checker pattern into it. A square file or dremel cutting disc will work but harder to control. • Take your time practicing stippling on some plastic parts you don't care about. I often test tips on old Airsoft KAC panels or plastic receivers and stocks. If you start seeing a repeatable pattern and you're going for a random look try going back over the pattern again randomly stippling areas and turning the tip. • Consider purchasing a power/temperature control unit. It basically acts as a intermediary between the word burner/soldering iron and the outlet. You'll start to notice that some plastics don't like to get too hot. This will allow you to better control that. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Thanks for the tips guys. Wire brush sounds like a very good idea. And the fan as well. And possibly a face-mask My wood burner is like the one pictured above and I am going to mod all the bits into checkered pieces. However it's just on or off model. I think a temp. controller would be nice so that you can get it just hot enough to make an imprint but not melt the plastic around the area you stipple. Thank G*d I practiced on a dummy frame first Link to post Share on other sites
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