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Full metal Colt SAA revolver


harborne blue

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From my rep at ASG as well as a few Instagram photos the new Dan Wesson revolvers should be out in a month or so

Apparently they will be out mid November and have adjustable hop + better triggerpull. But most importantly they will look like a real revolver! 

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I've made a couple of attempts at making a hop unit for my Umarex SAA.

My first goal is that no mods be done to the gun.  This is mainly so that anyone else could do it if I supplied parts.

 

So far I've only discovered ways NOT to do it. ;)

A standard, unmodified AEG hop rubber can't be used.
This is because the diameter of hole required makes the material around it too thin due to needing to fit inside the existing outer barrel.
The hole needs to be around 9.7 mm.  The outer diameter at that point needs to be under 11.2 mm.

I have successfully recreated the AEG c-clip slot for holding an AEG barrel, though.
This, coupled with making new corresponding flats on the side of the barrel, means I may be able to shorten the hop rubber to the point that the wall doesn't need to be so thin.

I've figured out a way to stop the unit rotating, but the strength of that will only show in use.

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Colt SAA (all three versions) is also available at Airsoft Tiger so it looks like stock is getting out to a few retailers now: http://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/p29398/Umarex-Colt-SAA-.45-CO2-Revolver-(Blue)/product_info.html 

 

Not sure why this isn't in Europe or the USA yet but I do know that at least one major UK retailer is having serious issues getting WE stock so maybe something is up in Taiwan?

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Maybe try the tm revlover/springer type barrel and hop ,also used in tri shots.

Do you have any details of this?

 

Not sure why this isn't in Europe or the USA yet but I do know that at least one major UK retailer is having serious issues getting WE stock so maybe something is up in Taiwan?

Umarex is a German company.  They said there are no plans to release the 6mm version in Europe.

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That :) . Thinking about it the revolver one is a little different and probably best. Sent you a PIC ;) .

 

The way their hop rubber is designed is that they have the same outer diameter as the rest of the barrel making them easy to fit without any additional cutouts.

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For those still following:

I have a (sort of) working fixed hopup.

About 60% of shots go dead straight the 40 feet to the back wall of my garden, but about 40% go about 30 feet then veer left. ?

I'm not sure of the quality of the barrel - I cut it off an old stainless steel APS barrel as I've not got any decent barrel offcuts long enough.

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I had designed a working fixed hopup for the WG Webley revolver. I imagine one for the Colt SAA would be basically the same:

 

I made a thread about it here if you want to see how i made it:

 

http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/215254-accurized-webley-mk-vi/

D'OH!

Why couldn't I find that when I was looking all over?

 

I've done something similar, but with the indexing protrusion as a separate pin, inserted before boring out.  It was a PIG to keep it in there as there's not much for a friction fit to grip.

I was thinking about putting a grub screw through it, but couldn't work out how, so I made an AEG-like grip system, which is fine until you need to shave down a C-clip to fit.

 

I've got a rotary table somewhere, but have never used it.  That was my fall-back plan which, in the long run, may be far more practical.

 

The big problem I've had is finding a suitable hop rubber scheme that's not a one-off part-in-a-spares-bin kind of thing.

Mine is a 7x1mm o-ring in a groove. The attached photo is my test barrel piece (too short to fit the gun).

 

Where do you get the bands?

post-70662-0-82974500-1445359757_thumb.jpg

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If you're using an o-ring, which should probably work decently, then your hopup wine may be too wide. The way you have it seems like the contact area could be anywhere.

 

By making the window more narrow you could limit the area where the BB would contact the o ring. Or at least it seems that way.

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The cross cut is 2mm down from the outer diameter of the barrel.  It might need better deburring - it's a very small slot to get a tool into.
The 60 degree cut of the groove stops the o-ring moving axially.
There is PTFE tape ( plumbers' thread seal tape ) around that end of the barrel to make it snug in the chamber.  I'll try cutting that away from the window tomorrow to see if that's affecting the consistency.

 

post-70662-0-32458200-1445387855_thumb.jpg

The indexing pin offset is to go in the cartridge extractor "tube" slot.
 

I'd rather go with the o-ring option if I can as they're very easy to get compared to the type of hop rubber you used.

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SUCCESS!
It works. There were a couple of fliers, but I'm still not sure if that's a dodgy barrel.
 
Removing the PTFE tape, and properly fixing the barrel seems to have helped dramatically.
 
It's lifting 0.20s well, but not so much 0.25s. That may improve with a tight bore and possibly modified shells to raise the fps a bit.
Range is now consistently beyond 42 feet (the length of my garden).

BTW, apologies to the OP for the "hijack". :)
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Try getting a peice of brass barrel then, its a lot cleaner to work with then steel, it just crumbles away as you machine it. The airsoft shop i go to will give me brass barrels from junked guns for basically nothing if they arent for something special. might ask at your local store/field if theyve got any lying around.

 

Though im still thinking that your contact area for that o ring is too wide. but maybe not, who knows.

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