quicksilver Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 yo. earlier today i decided to go ahead and install some upgrades on my TM M14. i had been waiting for a few parts to become available (ie gearsets, cylinder heads, etc) for a few months now and ive managed to get (1) hard anti-reversal latch, (2) metal spring guide, and some G&P midcaps. i was still waiting on a 6.03 barrel, POM piston head, G&P spur gear, self-sealing nozzle and still undecided which spring to use. i guess i got sick of waiting and mustered enough courage to go ahead and install an sp110 spring for now (at least it will be well with the limits here in california which is full auto AEGs up to 400 fps), plus the latch and spring guide. i figured the stock bushings should hold for a bit, so basically this is simple a spring drop in. with some research on filairsoft (many thanks to kalbs), the info here at arnies, hammermods, aex, and vaguely remembering a verbal run-thru from a friend who recently cracked open his M14 (thanks freq88), i had managed to complete the upgrade with no major snags. i took pictures for my own reference, so i could at least have something to go with, when the time came to piece it back all together. heres my annotated documentation for those who all those of us do-it-yourself'ers: anyway thats that for now. hope someone finds this helpful. let me know if you find anything wonky about it, might have missed a step or two. Link to post Share on other sites
Zephyranthes Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 I wish I had this guide when they first came out. I had to upgrade my friend's and it took me 2 hours to figure out how to get all the way to the mechbox. Link to post Share on other sites
nickoli177 Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Quick Question.... when you put the trigger guard back in after putting everything back together, did it fit in tightly? I used the loading rod to lift the trigger guard when installing bipod adapter and now when I put it back together it's loose. The S shaped lever that locked it in is pushing down but doesn't lock in tight. It opens right back up. Any help would be appreciated like no other! Link to post Share on other sites
kalbs Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Well done guide Quicksilver. I'll keep this posted as a favorite link. Did you happen to note the proper gear shimming? -kalbs- Link to post Share on other sites
quicksilver Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Did you happen to note the proper gear shimming? no. i didnt think of making a note of it at that point. as soon as i get to crack it open again (now that the gearsets are available) i will let you know. Link to post Share on other sites
RoosterCogburn Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 hey, about your trigger guard not fitting tightly, the same thing happened to mine. when you first pried out the trigger guard, you slightly bent the trigger guard metal out too wide. just bend it back then push it in. (think of taking the letter "U" and pushing the top to sides of it closer together. thats what you have to do to your trigger guard.) Link to post Share on other sites
leemovie Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Thanks for the excellent guide. I did my upgrade according to it. Works out beautifully. Link to post Share on other sites
hendrix Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 man i did my upgrade and my battery just died and doesn't have enough power to turn over the motor, now i have to wait till tomorrow to shoot it. Link to post Share on other sites
r0dzill4 Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 Excellent write up. This will save me time and money. Long live the M14 brotherhood! Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 Never mind. Link to post Share on other sites
Donut Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 Great guide. Bookmarked! Now I just need to get an M14... Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 Nevermind again. Link to post Share on other sites
tmas Posted June 15, 2006 Report Share Posted June 15, 2006 I got my M14 disassembled, too disassembled in fact. I'm trying to put the hop-up in the lower reciever back together (NOT the part directly attached to the inner barrel), but the TM manual is useless. Can anyone post a quick run through of how it goes? Or even a picture of the lower reciever assembled? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 I got all the bells and whistles off of the gearbox (step 18: I couldn't get the selector knob off the guide even with the set screw removed, step 24: requires a third screw to be removed), now I just need to crack her open. I'm having a bit of a problem with steps 33/34. I got the long top lock piece about 1mm away from the edge above the cylinder groove, but the little lock tab I'm supposed to push down on doesn't budge. Maybe it's not supposed to. Regardless, I've tried using a hammer and flat head screwdriver as sort of a chisel/prying tool to use in that 1mm gap, but it appears all I'm doing is scaping the top of the gearbox. Is there some trick I'm missing to remove that lock piece? Or should I just go hulk on it? I'm afraid ###### will start flying, so I'm trying to be as gentle as possible, but maybe this isn't the right approach for this problem? Edit: Chisel approach worked. Problem solved. Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted July 12, 2006 Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Did you happen to note the proper gear shimming? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I just took mine apart to do an upgrade. I'm not sure what size shims TM uses, but I'll try to paint a picture. There appear to be 3 different thicknesses and 2 different diameters: Shim A: Thickness = 1 (lowest to highest values, if it's not obvious ) Diameter = 2 Shim B: T = 2 D = 1 Shim C: T = 3 D = 1 Bevel Gear: ( C; A ) -> (top shims; bottom shims) Spur Gear: ( B B; B ) Sector Gear: ( B; B ) Notes: -------- At first, it was slightly difficult to distinguish between B and C since the thicknesses are pretty damn close. I don't have a magnifying glass, but I get a hint of difference when using a flashlight. When I was comparing the two (one on top of the other), one of them slipped from my fingers and I was able to distinguish which one it was that fell. Also, the shims included in my Guarder FTK came in three different ziplock baggies, each holding a shim set for what seems like each different gear, and it seems the included shims are packaged to follow the above shimming diagram (I haven't compared the thicknesses yet, but upon visual inspection of the different diameters and number of shims included in each baggie, this appears to be the case). Link to post Share on other sites
Rapier Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 Ok, I"m trying to put one back togeather and the trigger switch is giving me fits. Is there a pin that holds the two (male and female halfs) togeather? It LOOKS like there was one there, but I don't remember seeing it and can't find it in the work area. If somone has a close up pic of what frame 29 would look like I would apreciate it. Link to post Share on other sites
Sherlock Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 Worth putting a thou or two of shim around the part of the selector (pic.30) that is in contact with the cam. This is especially important if installing a steel gear set. The selctor WILL wear down and you'll have no semi-auto. It'll wear down within a couple thousand rounds. There is no replacement part for this yet. Make sure you lube it also. If your's is already worn down use thinker shim. I got up to 10 - 12 thou at one point. Rapier, There is a small 3mm chromed pin that holds the two together. Link to post Share on other sites
Rapier Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 There is a small 3mm chromed pin that holds the two together. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I was afraid of that. Damn thing is nowhere to be seen. Link to post Share on other sites
Sherlock Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 Took me a while to work out where it went the first time. The spring on the back that goes under the selector ball had me baffled for a while too. The first time I had one spring left over on the table but the gun worked perfectly. I stripped it another 5 times because it bugged the hell out of me. It still worked perfectly. Then my misses says 'Oh. That spring's from a pen I broke the other day'. Arggghhhhhhh! Link to post Share on other sites
screamin_weasel Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 no worries found the guide in a review - how easy is that ? Link to post Share on other sites
Rapier Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 I was afraid of that. Damn thing is nowhere to be seen. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> WAA HOO! I found it! I put it away for the night and came back to the store this afternoon and there it was laying right in the middle of the table. Damn store faries messing with my head again! Sherlock, thanks for the tip, as soon as I get a chance to finish I'll shim that up since I was doing a spring upgrade to this damn thing in the first place. realy wish I had looked this thread up sooner, I muddled my way all the way threw by myself untill I couldn't figure out what part was missing Link to post Share on other sites
IBICO Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 Maybe a very stupid question.. But how do you get the the stock apart from the internal.. where to begin? I have looked all over and I think I have to start with the outer barrel so I could take of the top cover??? Anyone could help out with pictures or anything. I need to downgrade it from 465fps to 450fps acording to our rule for semi aeg. Link to post Share on other sites
Carbine Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 IBICO, you need to bend the trigger guard towards the stock and pop it open. Then pull it out and the internals will slide forward and up, away from the stock. The handguard is simply held in place with a metal clip at the base. Bend it a bit with a screw driver and it will pop off. Link to post Share on other sites
IBICO Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 IBICO, you need to bend the trigger guard towards the stock and pop it open. Then pull it out and the internals will slide forward and up, away from the stock. The handguard is simply held in place with a metal clip at the base. Bend it a bit with a screw driver and it will pop off. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> tnx.. Actually got the whole thing apart and almost together. (the gearbox) what a nightmare.. And one thing.. WHERE SHOULD THIS PART BE.. Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 During what part of the disassembly did that piece fall out? Link to post Share on other sites
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