ching4ever Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 I've received my WE Hi-Capa 5.1k last week and the gun really kick *albatross* but I felt that the recoil isn't that strong so I've decided to upgrade it. I've order the Guarder 150% recoil and hammer spring and it will arrive next week. I need some guide to change the hammer spring. Changing a recoil spring seem to be easy but not for a hammer spring. As a newbie, I choose to ask for guide first before ruining my gun. The pics link was broken, I can't view the pic, TS can you please upload it again or just send me all the pic, I can view it and follow the instruction on this page. Thanks for any help, appreciate it. Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Changing the mainspring ("hammer spring") is really easy with a hi-capa. To make it even easier, first strap an elastic band around the grip to hold the grip safety down. Then, knock out the pin in the heel of the grip and slide the mainspring housing down out of the grip. Look at the top of MSH and you'll see a retention pin holding a plastic piece down. Sliding the retention pin out of the way will release the mainspring, so be careful. Mind you, if your pistol is cycling fine now, the slide movement will slow down because of a stronger mainspring, and could become problematic even. Also, the trigger pull will be harder, and the sear and hammer (and frame, if you dry-fire without gas) will wear out faster. A strong mainspring has lots of negative effects for the few fps (if any) it may add to your muzzle velocity. I only ever increase the mainspring tension, if the pistol is light-striking (unable to positively open the valve). -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
ching4ever Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try it when I get the parts. Anyway, if changing the 150% recoil spring without changing the 150% hammer spring, isn't that will cause problem for the slide to cycling fine or can't lock back when out of bbs? Is it possible to change the recoil spring only without changing the hammer spring? My purpose of changing the spring is not to increase the fps but just to add more resistent to the slide, to make it feel more like a real pistol. So what should I do? Change the recoil spring without changing the hammer spring or change both? Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Anyway, if changing the 150% recoil spring without changing the 150% hammer spring, isn't that will cause problem for the slide to cycling fine or can't lock back when out of bbs? More likely the opposite. A stronger hammer spring will increase gas consumption, and slow down the slide. There's nothing about the recoil spring, that requires you to change other parts in the pistol. (In some rare cases if there's a light strike problem, a stronger hammer spring tension can help the action. Generally Hi-Capas from any make don't suffer from this.) Is it possible to change the recoil spring only without changing the hammer spring? This is how I prefer to upgrade gas guns actually. I only change the hammer spring, if the original one is too weak and can not be modified. My purpose of changing the spring is not to increase the fps but just to add more resistent to the slide, to make it feel more like a real pistol. So what should I do? Change the recoil spring without changing the hammer spring or change both? Even more reason to stay away from the hammer spring, but go with the recoil spring. Of course it doesn't hurt to try and see what you like best. If you want something in between, you can weaken the 150% spring or add a BB below the original one to increase tension. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
ching4ever Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 More likely the opposite. A stronger hammer spring will increase gas consumption, and slow down the slide. There's nothing about the recoil spring, that requires you to change other parts in the pistol. (In some rare cases if there's a light strike problem, a stronger hammer spring tension can help the action. Generally Hi-Capas from any make don't suffer from this.) This is how I prefer to upgrade gas guns actually. I only change the hammer spring, if the original one is too weak and can not be modified. Even more reason to stay away from the hammer spring, but go with the recoil spring. Of course it doesn't hurt to try and see what you like best. If you want something in between, you can weaken the 150% spring or add a BB below the original one to increase tension. -Sale Thanks for the opinion. I guess I'll change the recoil spring first and test see whether the slide will cycle well only decide whether want to change the hammer spring. Link to post Share on other sites
Syco54645 Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 Here is the original wege post restored. It should all work, I wrote a perl script really fast to fix all of the links. This post is fixed as of Sunday December 9th 2007. I am currently working on getting it to display the images inline (scaled down of course with links to the larger images). It is almost done right now. I think it is much easier to read that way. Righto.. well.. here it is. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture039.jpg Take your bog standard 5.1 gbb pistol After removing the slide (please read your manual!) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture040.jpg Please have these tools handy. (maybe a cloth and some silicone spray too actually to wipe clean and lube) First things to remove are the thumb-safeties. Start at this point http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture041.jpg and move the safety up to here http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture042.jpg . Note: the hammer must be in the "cocked" position. To make sure that you do not lose two small important pieces, do as I did, and hold a hand in the way http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture043.jpg . Those pieces are actually where they fell, and have not been picked up from about 2 metres away. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture003.jpg put your punch here, and get ready to press it on through, pushing the pin out like so... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture004.jpg Now then, pull the punch out and you will see this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture005.jpg Pull the hammer-spring housing out and have a looksie: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture011.jpg . You can see the little brass pin keeping the spring cap and spring inside the housing. This is where you put a 'new hammer spring' if you feel you need to. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture009.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture008.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture007.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture006.jpg Assorted pictures of the 3-leaf-spring and it's placement in the rear of the grip. Not the slot that is in the grip that the spring fits exactly into. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture010.jpg Side note- See this point here on the spring? bend that big bit a BIT further (a hint..a smidgeon, not much, tiny (get the point here?)) to sometimes correct the grip-safety failing. Now the plastic grip itself - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture012.jpg here and here http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture013.jpg are where you need to undo. (Note - use a magnetic screwdriver.... it makes things so much easier when putting screws in, and pulling them out.) It should look like this now http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture014.jpg To take out the trigger, you have to remove the magazine release. Put your flat head screwdriver in, press and rotate (anti-clockwise?). Now the mag release will come out and you can then pull out the trigger and trigger-bar. Note the punch is pointing at the little pin holding trigger to trigger-bar. This is where you attach your new trigger. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture016.jpg IF you want to change the grip over, and nothing else, well, you can stop reading, and do the 5.1 back up. smile.gif otherwise, carry on. Inner bits: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture017.jpg Phillips head again. Pull the screw out and then you can lift off the side piece like so http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture018.jpg ( I am taking the pics with my right hand, and holding it with my left). This is the easiest way/place to get this piece off of the main part of the receiver. The next show the positions of the hammer, sear, and a part that I don't know the name. NOTE the wear that is present on the sear. Intriguing that this part has gone for a year and has done this. Hmmm... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture019.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture020.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture021.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture022.jpg No bits!.. just silicon oil. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture023.jpg Note the position of these parts. smile.gif http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture024.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture025.jpg shows the spring that you need to remove. Note how the long arm hooks in and underneath that shiny hammer pin!.. That is the hammer pin folks. Take good care of it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture026.jpg pulling off the spring. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture027.jpg pulling out pin. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture028.jpg note the small bit on the firing pin that fits into the groove of the dark metal housing. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture029.jpg slightly different shot again. Unscrew the phillips head screw as you can see, pull of the little piece and you will see something like this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture030.jpg To put it back in (after cleaning and lubing of course) you will need to hold it like so http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture031.jpg or fluke it like this! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture032.jpg This shot shows where the bits go back into, or how the correlate. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture033.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture035.jpg shows how the firing pin should be able to be moved. You will see two pieces moving. Now, put it all back together!. Note: when putting the metal receiver back together, use the domed head phillps screwdriver, and STOP! when the screwing motion stops. Any further and you will risk stripping the thread. Like wise when attaching the plastic grip to the receiver. Don't give it 'one for luck'. The grip and slide is pretty much the only plastic on this gbb, which I find is pretty damned good. And now put it back into it's home http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture036.jpg (in this case a NATO M12 holster). Any questions? Link to post Share on other sites
crazy aits-joker Posted February 25, 2008 Report Share Posted February 25, 2008 thanks very much Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted February 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 yeah.. thanks for reddoing it. I think someone saved it as a PDF somewhere too? Link to post Share on other sites
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