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UTG MP5 AEG Dissected! Quite impressive really...

staticzero

By staticzero,
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DCF

DCF

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Thanks for answering my questions. Those are great responce and I wish I can give you a rep point for it.

 

So replacing a scetion of the wire and changing the connectors is enough to run a slight more power spring with the same battery and motor?

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staticzero

staticzero

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Hey static  nice review. I ordered mine tuesday and shorty hasent sent it out "******s" so im hopeing to have it by monday or maybe tuesday if not they better send alot of free stuff or im gonna be uber p'ed off.

question is what piston would you recamend or what pistion head? What do you think the first upgrades should be as far as piston ect.

PS i plan on upgradeing my wire with the high qualty stuff from my rc days lol. "i like how its like a wet noodle lol" Im thinking powerpoll instead of deans tho. i never really been a big fan of deans.  Thanks for your input no rush on a awnser its gonna be awhile before i get this becouse shorty usa is takeing there sweet time but im glad i seen your tut before i got it so i can fix the switch and rewire it and fix those 2 problems before i use it.

I think as long as you can get a replacement o-ring, the stock piston and piston head should be fine for a while. I don't see a need to replace it if the compression is good and it doesn't break. Same goes for the piston. What's the point of a $100 gun if you're just going to spend another $200 on parts for it, after all? Pardon my exaggeration, but I'm sure you understand my meaning. Buy stuff when things break, or if there is an immediate need for them, or a direct benefit to be realized. Otherwise you're just flushing money. That's my opinion, anyway. What you do is totally up to you. :)

 

If you're itching to spend money on the thing, one good thing might be to add a bering spring guide, partially for durability but also to reduce resistance in the gearbox. That could help the motor out a bit.

 

If you can't get an o-ring or really want to get a new piston head for some reason, get a polycab one with a bering such as the Systema duricon piston head with bering (or similar). Buy a bottle of lock tight too, and apply some to the bolt when you install the piston head. you really don't want that coming loose, trust me!

 

Thanks for answering my questions. Those are great responce and I wish I can give you a rep point for it.

 

So replacing a scetion of the wire and changing the connectors is enough to run a slight more power spring with the same battery and motor?

Yep. And of course the more optimal the wiring, the heavier a spring you can run, and the better the ROF will be (all this to a point, naturally).

 

Because of the improvement I observed after changing out the extension, I'm looking forward to redoing the gearbox with quality 16 gauge and examining the result...

 

Does it come apart in the same way as a TM so that you could learn how to disassemble a TM MP5 from the UTG?

Except for the slight difference with the flash hider/front sight, yes, it seems that is the case.

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staticzero

staticzero

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Hum. Well if that's how it's working for you maybe I'm remembering it backwards... I'll have to try it when I get home. :)

 

Edit: TM MP5 A4/A5 manual for reference:

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filnavn=/a...a4a5/index.html

 

On this page it indicate that moving the lever forward increases hop. Interesting.

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/articles/ma...5/mp5a4a5m8.jpg

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staticzero

staticzero

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My Guarder handguard arrived. It's tight, but it fits. I had to dremal/file the lip in the opening a tiny tiny bit to get my Surefire G2 to fit it. After that it just screwed in. Pics!

 

The full size mags are all star mags BTW.

IMG_6919.sized.jpg

 

Close-up, compared to the stock UTG handguard.

IMG_6920.sized.jpg

 

So basically to replace the wire all I'll need is one male connector, one female connector and 2 18" of 16AWG wires? I'm really interested about this gun. Probably going to be my first AEG.

Or optionally two sets of connectors, the second set for the intermediate connectors. But basically yes. To wire to the stock instead of the handguard, you may need less. You also need to know how to solder and have the tools to do it.

 

Also if you wanted to replace all the wiring (including the wire in the gearbox) you may need more. I'm not sure you can rewire the gearbox to the front like you can in an armalite, the gearbox will let you but the body may not. If you could, you'd need even less then 2x18". Get two three feet lengths to play it safe, wire is cheap. You could either do it as one piece, or have intermediate connectors like the stock setup. I'll be rewiring the gearbox in the future and will provide more info on it at that time.

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Trigger Happy10

Trigger Happy10

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That is awesome. I have like 50 dollars now so I am getting one. You were right one day out on the street collecting pennies does really go fast. :P Just a quick question, did you switch the battery to deans too? What hobby shop do you go to? I go to hobby hut, it is conveintly right across from Home Depot. :D

 

Cheers

 

:Dr_Evil:

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lacroixpamplemousse

lacroixpamplemousse

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K i got the gun stripped down where the motors off and i can see the bottom of the gearbox and trigger and stuff, but i cant get the receiver body off. It seems like theres a screw around the top middle area that i cant find. I removed the one hidden by the grip, removed the 2 part screws, and 2 longer screws with a wider taper. Now any idea which one im missing? I really wanna get inside this beast and work on the wiring...

 

Also, the nut that holds the bolt that holds the back sight on fell off while i was trying to get the halfs apart, and i couldnt get it back in. Where does this nut go?

 

And another, would a 9.6v 9500mAh kill this gun (as in decrease lifetime) with the stock motor but the custom wiring?

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Trigger Happy10

Trigger Happy10

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K i got the gun stripped down where the motors off and i can see the bottom of the gearbox and trigger and stuff, but i cant get the receiver body off. It seems like theres a screw around the top middle area that i cant find. I removed the one hidden by the grip, removed the 2 part screws, and 2 longer screws with a wider taper. Now any idea which one im missing? I really wanna get inside this beast and work on the wiring...

 

Also, the nut that holds the bolt that holds the back sight on fell off while i was trying to get the halfs apart, and i couldnt get it back in. Where does this nut go?

 

And another, would a 9.6v 9500mAh kill this gun (as in decrease lifetime) with the stock motor but the custom wiring?

A 9.6v wont kill it. Niether will the high mah. But where did you find a 9500mAh batery? Chances are it wont fit.

 

 

:Dr_Evil:

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staticzero

staticzero

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Hey guys, just wanted to say I had one heck of a weekend. I've only just gotten back and I'm going to need to take some time to get things squared away. I see there are a lot of new questions, don't worry I'll answer them as best I can as soon as I can review them with a clear head. Sit tight! :)

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1Bean1

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Hi static, thanks for being patient with us gearbox noobs. I bought the utg mp5 as a cheaper way of learning/upgrading my own gearbox, and your posts are very helpful. At airsoftretreat.com, I posted a way of fitting a 7 cell large type battery into the buttstock, by shaving a tab off of the butt plate to accomodate the last battery cell.

 

Anyone know other methods to do so, without being as destructive - cuz maybe I just don't know how to stick one in there right? The shave tab method is not the best solution, the fit is still tight and I'm sure it's stressing the remaining plastic tabs (I have to smack the plate on a table ledge to dislodge it when the battery is in there).

 

Static, I'm looking forward to more of your posts, especially more on the wiring, if I had read your comments about using better wiring, it might have saved me from shaving that tab).

 

Pics:

7 cell large type battery (for comparison), with utg full stock housing 7 cell large type battery. Notice Slight bulge at rear, caused by battery interfering with locking tab:

utg_bulge.jpg

 

Taking a dremel to the locking tab:

utg_cut.jpg

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staticzero

staticzero

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Great, well pictured review!

 

What are the gears made of? The look like powder metal steel to me. Could you see if they're magnetic? Get a magnet and see if it sticks.

 

Steel gears would be a good selling point.

I doubt they're steel, but who knows. I've never seen gears that were this copper color before in any event. Next time I have the gearbox apart, I'll give the magnet a try.

 

How does the hicaps work? does it feed well?

I've only tried one of the hicaps once. I filled it up, wound it all the way, and burned it start to finish. I was nearly able to drain the whole thing, and it was only at the end that it stated to miss-feed (occasional blanks). Based on that I'd say keep it wound and it should be good to go.

 

would a m100 need a new motor or anything more than bushings?

I can't really talk about an M120 on these forums, per the rules. However since an M100 *may* be below the forum limit when installed in this gun I'll say that I intend to instal one when I upgrade the gearbox wires. I'm not going to change the bushings in the name of science, and partially because I don't feel it should be necessary with an M100. I'll report my actual results after doing so, of course, but I don't believe at this point that a new motor will be needed to use M100. As I've stated previously, based on my observations thus far, optimizing the wiring is necessary for any level of spring upgrade.

 

EXCELLENT REVIEW, Exactly what I needed, I have already posted a link in www.airsoftmadrid.com which is the most visited web in spanish.

THANKS

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. :)

 

That is awesome. I have like 50 dollars now so I am getting one. You were right one day out on the street collecting pennies does really go fast. :P Just a quick question, did you switch the battery to deans too? What hobby shop do you go to? I go to hobby hut, it is conveintly right across from Home Depot. :D

 

Cheers

 

:Dr_Evil:

I changed all the connectors, including the battery's connectors. I use whichever one of my local hobby shops has what I need, or else cheapbatterypacks.com . I'm going to have to get some 16AWG from them, all my local shops seem to be out or don't carry it (They mostly do RC stuff and only carry 13 or larger for the most part). This is kind of annoying since 9/10, 16 is perfect for airsoft. Hmm, I need some more deans connectors too...

 

K i got the gun stripped down where the motors off and i can see the bottom of the gearbox and trigger and stuff, but i cant get the receiver body off. It seems like theres a screw around the top middle area that i cant find. I removed the one hidden by the grip, removed the 2 part screws, and 2 longer screws with a wider taper. Now any idea which one im missing? I really wanna get inside this beast and work on the wiring...

 

Also, the nut that holds the bolt that holds the back sight on fell off while i was trying to get the halfs apart, and i couldnt get it back in. Where does this nut go?

 

And another, would a 9.6v 9500mAh kill this gun (as in decrease lifetime) with the stock motor but the custom wiring?

Refer to the exploded view here. Perhaps that will help you locate the screw you're after. The body is partly held together with internal pins, if you got all the screws out then you only need to carefully separate the two halves.

 

I've done some searching for a good guide on TM/CA MP5 body disassembly, but haven't had much luck. The best thing I found so far is this, perhaps it will be helpful. I may have to write up my own guide after all.

 

As for the nut, it sits in a notch inside one half of the body. When you get the body halves apart, carefully examine the area where the sight goes. The place for the nut should be apparent.

 

If you're asking if a 9.6v battery kill it right away, probably not. But used with a stock gun, the ROF will be quite high, and the wear and stress on parts will be increased. Therefor, the guns life will be decreased. This is common sense, I think, and is true of any mechanical system. :) But by how much, I cannot say...

 

Great Review and Nice Pics! I was wondering how much of this gun is made up of plastic?

Most of the gun is plastic. It has less metal than the TM because the sights are plastic. Basically, the screws, pins, sliding stock bars, things like that are metal. Everything else externally is plastic.

 

How did the gun hold up over the weekend? Did you know that Shorty USA put up a link to this forum?

The gun saw some light use over the weekend, less that it would at a normal game. It held up fine, though at the end of the day when the battery was getting low the gearbox did jam up. Curiously, even after charging the battery it wouldn't turn over, I had to use my large 9.6v battery. This is the first time this has occurred since I changed the extension. We'll see if it happens after I change out all the wiring to 16 gauge.

 

shoryusa-chris did send me a PM letting me know they had linked to this thread. I'm glad to know it's useful enough to people to receive such widespread attention! :)

 

how many shots can you expect to get off the stock battery?

I can't really give you a number, it really depends on how you play. Firing on semi will use more power than firing bursts of auto, for example. Upgrades also increase the power requirement. I can say, FWIW, that I'd need one and a half or so 1100 mAh batteries to last me a day's play in any of my other guns.

 

Some might say you can expect something like 1.5 shots per mAh, IIRC. But don't quote me on that. There are threads on the topic, so you might want to do a search if you're in need of a more thorough answer.

 

I can't simply test it out for you since my gun is no longer stock.

 

Hi static, thanks for being patient with us gearbox noobs. I bought the utg mp5 as a cheaper way of learning/upgrading my own gearbox, and your posts are very helpful. At airsoftretreat.com, I posted a way of fitting a 7 cell large type battery into the buttstock, by shaving a tab off of the butt plate to accomodate the last battery cell.

Thanks for posting that, it should be helpful for those looking to heavily upgrade this gun, since it seems having a good power system is necessary to support a stronger spring. It may be that with the right battery, one could avoid changing the wiring, though I wouldn't support this as the best option. In any case, there are many reasons someone might want to use a large 9.6v battery, and it's good to know they can.

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