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UTG MP5 AEG Dissected! Quite impressive really...

staticzero

By staticzero,
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Trigger Happy10

Trigger Happy10

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i've read through this thread 3 or 4 times 'cause it's amazingly informative. i was wondering, you said you removed the fuse when you rewired the gun. is that step necessary? also, did you change the connector on your battery charger or can you find battery chargers with deans connectors?

You could just make an adapter, or replace the connector. Or in my case I made a new, longer cable to plug into my charger, and an adapter to go from deans to mini tamiya when I need to charge someone else's battery.

Thats what he told me.

 

:Dr_Evil:

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staticzero

staticzero

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i've read through this thread 3 or 4 times 'cause it's amazingly informative. i was wondering, you said you removed the fuse when you rewired the gun. is that step necessary? also, did you change the connector on your battery charger or can you find battery chargers with deans connectors?

I don't have data to prove it's necessary, and it's certainly riskier not having a fuse in the gun. They can also be a useful diagnostic tool.

 

Like any component of the electrical system such as the connectors, as long as the fuse assembly isn't a current bottleneck, I'd say you could have one. Just don't use the stock fuse assembly, try and find a better, low resistance setup (or just solder the fuse in directly and shrink wrap the ends). I can't help you much more than that, I don't care to use fuses in my guns and so I've not looked into it.

 

As for your charger question, (as above) there are several solutions. You could just make an adapter, that's easy enough. Or, change out the connector all together, or if you have a charger like mine that has speaker terminal style clip connectors (or a similar modular design) which allow you to connect anything you want, you could just make a new deans connector cable like I did (I then took my old cable and made it into an adapter for mini tamiya connectors). I don't know of any that come with deans, but I haven't exactly looked. :unsure:

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staticzero

staticzero

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Hey thanks man! :)

 

I just wanted to let everyone know that it appears that something is wrong with my hosting company at the moment. I can't get to my domain, or theirs for that matter. :( If the pictures aren't coming up for you, please be patient. I'm sure things will get straightened out before long.

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malkav33

malkav33

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cool cool. i'm taking mine apart right now because it has this problem where it shoots full auto when set to semi. i'm at the part where you take the motor out, but i can't seem to pry it out. is there a trick to taking out the motor? i'm using the disassembly guide here: http://www.blessy.com/airsoft/mp5hop/hop1.htm

and according to that the motor seems to just come out. mine is stuck though

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malkav33

malkav33

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I find mine gets hung up too, I think its the gear getting stuck in the hole. What I usually do is grab the motor's plastic cernter line (where the adjustment screw hits) with some pliers, and wiggle it gently as I pull on it, to free it up. Give that a try. :)

 

dude, you are the best. i've been wiggling it for over an hour, and i tried the pliers thing and it popped right out. seriously, you kick *albatross*

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lacroixpamplemousse

lacroixpamplemousse

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I fixed my guns problems! yay! I hope no body ever has to look inside the body... lol I lost the original nut for the rear sight... so i had to use a larger nut and use the dremel to widen the little area. After taking it apart 4 times for the first time ever, it still works! :D Now I gotta get some 16 gauge wire and pick up the crimping tools / connectors.

 

For this application would speaker wire work well? I mean theres tons of 16 gauge speaker wire, and its supposed to carry the sound well, so would it have low resistance for this application? ( http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...t%5Fid=270-4136 )

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malkav33

malkav33

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staticzero, do you know how to troubleshoot the selector plate? my gun shoots full auto when set to semi auto. i just stripped my gun down for the first time and put it back together, hoping that i could find anything that stuck out, but really i didn't know what to look for. i fiddled with the selector plate but didn't change anything. do you know what might cause these guns to shoot full auto when set to semi auto?

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shortyusa-chris

shortyusa-chris

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I use dreamhost. It's strange, this is the first time I've noticed any downtime with them, and the first time I've had any problem at all. My domain and my friend's domain is working again (we share an account), but DH's isn't yet. Odd.

 

http://www.dreamhost.com/

 

I use dreamhost also for many sites and all of them went down for several hours. This was caused by the power outage in LA. Best way to see what the problem is http://status.dreamhost.com/ and http://blog.dreamhost.com/.

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staticzero

staticzero

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Static your the man.  all the usefull info A+ how often dus it haing up? and can you show me whare its haing up maybe we can fix this with with a trusty dremal lol.

It's happened every time I've taken the motor out just about, but I don't see a need to modify anything. It's always been easy enough to get out after wiggling it a bit. Best not to remove material you can't easily put back if you don't have to, I always say.

 

static have you tryed drilling out the holes in the pistion head?

sorry for dbl posting i was looking at the first page when a idea poped into my head.

I haven't tried that, but it may be a good idea. The CA piston head (and others) have holes for a reason, that is to cause the o-ring to expand as the air compresses, which should result in a better seal between the piston head and the cylinder. Now of course the o-ring needs to be good to go to start with...

 

I fixed my guns problems! yay! I hope no body ever has to look inside the body... lol I lost the original nut for the rear sight... so i had to use a larger nut and use the dremel to widen the little area. After taking it apart 4 times for the first time ever, it still works!  :D Now I gotta get some 16 gauge wire and pick up the crimping tools / connectors.

 

For this application would speaker wire work well? I mean theres tons of 16 gauge speaker wire, and its supposed to carry the sound well, so would it have low resistance for this application? ( http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...t%5Fid=270-4136 )

Skip the speaker wire, use wire meant for RC cars. It should be soft and flexible with a high strand count. You can order it online, I just ordered some from CBP. It's 40¢ a foot. They have connectors too.

 

https://www.unipros.com/main.asp?sid=392960&pgid=wire

 

And don't crimp. Solder. There are plenty of guides online if you don't know how, and the tools are cheap. :)

 

staticzero, do you know how to troubleshoot the selector plate? my gun shoots full auto when set to semi auto. i just stripped my gun down for the first time and put it back together, hoping that i could find anything that stuck out, but really i didn't know what to look for. i fiddled with the selector plate but didn't change anything. do you know what might cause these guns to shoot full auto when set to semi auto?

I'm not sure what the problem could be exactly, I'd have to examine it myself to be sure of anything. Check to make sure the spring is in place, and that when you slide the plate all the way forward the cutoff lever is not engaged at all (the little metal arm that the spring is pushing on). When in semi, the lever shouldn't be engaged either. If it is engaged at all it will fire full auto.

 

You can file the selector plate in the area that touches the lever, the more material you remove the further back the plate will need to be to engage auto. This may solve your problem, but it's risky since you are permanently altering the plate (though a new one is only about $8 IIRC). Be sure it's what you want to do before you do it, if the actual cause of your issue is somewhere else it may be a needlessly complex solution to a simple problem. Incidentally, you can completely disable full auto by removing enough material.

 

It would be best to remove the plate to modify it, but that does require fully disassembling the gearbox. You can do it without disassembling the gearbox, but you need the right file and you need to take care not to get too much shrapnel in the gearbox.

 

I use dreamhost also for many sites and all of them went down for several hours. This was caused by the power outage in LA. Best way to see what the problem is http://status.dreamhost.com/ and http://blog.dreamhost.com/.

I knew they had a status page somewhere, but I couldn't recall where it was. Thanks!

 

It looks like workers cut some lines causing a short: http://www.kcentv.com/news/c-article.php?cid=3&nid=3861

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malkav33

malkav33

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MOve the selector all the way to safety, then remove it, put it back in, and make sure that its pointing at the white safety, and it should lign up right.

 

actually i think i found the problem. it wasn't that the selector was misleading. it was more like... the gun is either in saftey or firing full auto, there's no way to get it to shoot semi auto. but last night when i opened the gearbox i noticed one thing. there was a small piece of metal debris bouncing around. later i read that semi shots work because a metal piece called the cut-off switch manipulates the selector plate to cut the circuit. so it's possible that my cut-off switch broke.

 

on the sector gear there is a small tab protruding that comes into contact with the cut-off switch. everytime the sector gear makes one full rotation (and pulls the piston back, and fires off one shot) it comes into contact with the cut-off switch. when set to full automatic, the selector plate is positioned so that it completes the curcuit and can not be manipulated by the cut-off switch. when set to semi, the selector plate is in a position where it can complete the circuit, but is manipulated by the cut-off switch.

 

so putting the gun in semi basically means after every shot (one rotation of the sector gear) the cut-off switch will somehow manipulate the selector plate and cut the circuit. this is my guess anyways because i have not actually taken out the selector plate to get a good look at the cut-off switch. hopefully i can get my hands on a digital camera this weekend and post some pics of what i'm talkin' about

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staticzero

staticzero

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That's not exactly correct. The cut-off lever interrupts the circuit by disengaging the switch, not the selector plate. When the cam on thr sector gear engages the lever, it basically bumps the switch up out of position, cutting power. The switch mechanim is reset when the trigger is released. On auto, the lever is locked all they way up by the selector plate, the sector gear's cam cannot and does not actuate it, and the power is never cut. All the selector plate really does is engage the safty stop, complete the circut up to the switch when in a fire mode, and disable the cut-off lever when in full auto. So you see, the lever doesn't manupulate the plate, rather it's the other way around.

 

If your gun only fires in auto it's likely there's something wrong with the cut-off lever.

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malkav33

malkav33

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That's not exactly correct. The cut-off lever interrupts the circuit by disengaging the switch, not the selector plate. When the cam on thr sector gear engages the lever, it basically bumps the switch up out of position, cutting power. The switch mechanim is reset when the trigger is released. On auto, the lever is locked all they way up by the selector plate, the sector gear's cam cannot and does not actuate it, and the power is never cut. All the selector plate really does is engage the safty stop, complete the circut up to the switch when in a fire mode, and disable the cut-off lever when in full auto. So you see, the lever doesn't manupulate the plate, rather it's the other way around.

 

If your gun only fires in auto it's likely there's something wrong with the cut-off lever.

 

ahh, thanks for the info. that's exactly what happened, i just finished opening my gearbox again and found that the tip of the cut-off lever nearest the front has broken off. do you know if cut-off levers are sold separately? i haven't seen any online

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staticzero

staticzero

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They most certainly are:

 

Systema http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...ystema%20Others

Guarder http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...t%20Off%20Lever

 

You can probably find them by other companies and at other shops as well.

 

I'd try calling the shop you bought the gun from to see if they can help, maybe they'll give you a free one, or at least a discount.

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staticzero

staticzero

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Just take the o-ring from the gun with you to a hardware store. Match it up with one there. They're very cheap, so it won't hurt to try a slightly larger one too.

 

You also need some 100% silicon oil to re-lubricate the cylinder and the new o-ring before you put it together to test the new o-ring's compression. Do a search if you need help selecting oil.

 

Check your compression first though, you may not need a new one if it's good. Just hold the cylinder set (minus the nozzle) in one hand and the piston set in the other. Put the piston in the cylinder so the head is just past the hole in the side, and cover the end of the cylinder head with your finger. You'll also want to try and hold the cylinder head in place so it doesn't pop off. Now quickly compress it, there should be resistance. Try it a few times until you get the hang of it. Perfect compression results in something like a strut in a car, it's not noticeably leaking at all and it feels like a pillow of air, you know with a little bounce to it. This is what you want to strive for.

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Trigger Happy10

Trigger Happy10

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Hey Static, do you know if a Marui Front sight would fit on this gun to replace the regular one, so i could fit marui,ICS or CA Flash hiders on there

 

im talking about Just the front sight, not the cocking tube or anything

I think the threading is in the cocking tube. Not the sights. This gun should be 100% mauri compatible, meaning that any part for the mauri will fit this

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