UTG MP5 AEG Dissected! Quite impressive really...

[staticzero]

You should be fine just changing the o-ring out. Also, you might consider drilling out the 'holes' in the piston head, sounds like someone earlier in the thread has had good results with that.

 

If all you do is change the o-ring, please be sure to chrono and tell us the results! I'd really like to see what this gun shoots with proper compression while otherwise stock.

 

Oh, and metal bushings will be a waste of money in stock form by the way...

[ef9]

oh thanks static zero , why is the metal bushings be a waste of money in stock form, ? what about those metal shims then?

 

what grease/lubricant should be used when putting back the internals of the UTG? i know silicone oil is not going to cut it..... i couldnt get lots of results by searching forums as well , but i do remember coming across a website that has an article on basic tune up on an aeg , anyone remember which one was that?

 

drilling the piston heads eh? hmmmm i wouldnt want to mess too much with the original design of the gun , i just want to improve it efficiency wise and see what will i get from the baseline of 240ish fps....

 

ok then i will junk the metal bushing idea.... what about a tougher piston/piston heads or cylinder? is it necessary?.........

 

btw hows your re-wiring getting on....

[staticzero]

oh thanks static zero , why is the metal bushings be a waste of money in stock form, ? what about those metal shims then?

 

what grease/lubricant should be used when putting back the internals of the UTG? i know silicone oil is not going to cut it..... i couldnt get lots of results by searching forums as well , but i do remember coming across a website that has an article on basic tune up on an aeg , anyone remember which one was that?

 

drilling the piston heads eh? hmmmm i wouldnt want to mess too much with the original design of the gun , i just want to improve it efficiency wise and see what will i get from the baseline of 240ish fps....

 

ok then i will junk the metal bushing idea.... what about a tougher piston/piston heads or cylinder? is it necessary?.........

 

btw hows your re-wiring getting on....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The metal bushings wouldn't hurt, they just won't really help. The plastic ones should last a long, long time with the gun in stock form. Heck they should be fine with an M100 (and incidentally when I installed the M100 today I left the bushings stock). What about what metal shims? If the shimming is fine stock, leave it alone.

 

I use Systema gear grease for the gears, and I have some ICS silicone oil I got from AEX for the cylinder set, it's pretty thick stuff and it says on the can it's for gears (I thin it out with a quick blast of light weight oil).

 

Drilling the piston head would make it like a CA piston head. Refer to the pic on the first page to see. UTG clearly copied the CA head, but didn't bother to drill out the holes.

 

As I mentioned earlier, the rewiring went well. I'll have pics and such probably tomorrow.

[chapi]

Somebody can tell me me how many fps has this gun ? In shops they say that 250 or 260 and are shops where they say 285 fps. Whats true ?

[ef9]

with almost 0 compression i chronoed mine at 245 fps consistent....

 

i just bought a whole set of cylinder , cylinder head , piston , piston head , spring guides, metal bushing , shims and tight bore barrel and i will chrono it again after these parts are in. estimated to get around 280 if not more.....

 

 

goin to leave the motor, spring and mechbox stock to see how long it will last me

 

wiring wouldnt be done until static zero posted his results.

[Canasian]

I may seem um... repetitive... but just wondering which silencer can screw onto this one. SOCOM was recommended with all the adapters it comes with... but in the early posts it said the threads are on the inside instead of the outside which isn't TMish. Looking for SOCOM alternative although it owns.

 

Thanks again!

[staticzero]

There is no threaded suppressor that I know of that will fit the gun stock. If you can find a QD one that clamps onto the MP5's muzzle lugs, like the MP5K PDW/Navy type flash hider does, then that will be the best solution. Otherwise, you need to change out the front sight so that you can use threaded muzzles or other attachments meant for CA/TM MP5s. I'll have more on that hopefully tonight.

 

A quick search on WGC for 'MP5' and then filtered by 'silencers' produced good results. For example, these may work:

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...-SL-25_srch_MP5

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...-MP5QD_srch_MP5

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...C-SD01_srch_MP5

[lacroixpamplemousse]

The support so far for my issue has been wonderful.

 

Ok thank you Ms. Ding!

 

Ryan T******

250 W. ****** Street

Memphis, TN 381**

USA

 

 

- Hide quoted text -

On 9/19/05, Tina Ding <tding@leapers.com> wrote:

We will send you the selector plate assembly set for free.  Unless I missed it, have you provided us your complete shipping address?  No p.o. box, please. 

 

 

 

Thanks for your encouragement.  There is an influx of e-mails due to user excitement about these new guns.  We have been racing to keep up and will continue to do so!

 

 

 

Tina Ding

 

Leapers, Inc.

 

37250 Plymouth Road

 

Livonia, MI 48150

 

T: 734-542-1500

 

F: 734-542-7095

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Neoific [mailto:ryan.e.t@gmail.com]

Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 6:16 PM

To: Tina Ding

Subject: Re: UTG mp5 is great, just a few questions!

 

 

 

Oh and on the last email, warranty*

 

 

 

Ryan T.

 

 

 

On 9/19/05, Neoific < ryan.e.t@gmail.com> wrote:

 

Thanks for the nice reply Mrs. Ding. A few days ago, the whole left side of the selector fell off. So If I got a replacement all I would be looking for was the selector switch assembly. There also has been another person in the ArniesAirsoft forum thread on this that has reported the same happening. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...95entry409195  I know that the image is a 404, but he used to have something there . Someone else has also emailed you, and they have received great support, and this is another example of that! Now I am not quite clear on the whole warrenty section on this gun, does it have a warrenty and if so would this qualify for being replaced, or do I need to purchase it?

 

 

 

If there are any other issues people are having with your UTG MP5, people will post in that topic

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for being kind, conciderate, and helpful!

 

Ryan T.

 

 

 

On 9/19/05, Tina Ding < tding@leapers.com> wrote:

 

Hello, Ryan,

 

 

 

Thank you much for taking the time to write to us.  I've already communicated what you described to our product team.  Our goal is to bring about positive changes in each production.  We enjoy the excitement of our loyal customers and we also pay serious attention to opportunities for possible improvement.

 

 

 

In terms of selector plate and related components, we will be more than happy to send you a replacement set.  Please provide your shipping address to proceed.

 

 

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

Tina Ding

 

Leapers, Inc.

 

37250 Plymouth Road

 

Livonia, MI 48150

 

T: 734-542-1500

 

F: 734-542-7095

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Neoific [mailto: ryan.e.t@gmail.com]

Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 11:44 AM

To: office@leapers.com

Subject: UTG mp5 is great, just a few questions!

 

 

 

Hello, I recently purchase your UTG Mp5. I have to say it is a great deal, and very good for starters. One thing I have found a little enoying is that most of the metal parts seem to be partially rusted such as some of the screws, and the trigger (which im assuming is made out of copper?) paint is a little shotty so you can see the copper color. Also a few of the screws seem to have the heads partially stripped. Im not really interested in shipping it back and forth and waiting, so is there any way i could get the information on a few of the screws for replacement? If so, I would like the size/thread ect for: The screw that holds the selector switch onto the other selector switch's rod and the screw that holds the selector switches spring/rod in place for the clicking noise.

 

The main issues ive been having seem to deal with the selector (stripping wise).

 

 

 

I am glad to say that your product, for me atleast, isnt haveing any of the feeding issues. I think that the problem might have to due with not winding the mag up all the way.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for your time!

 

 

 

--

Ryan T.

901.484.9961

 

 

 

 

--

Ryan T.

901.484.9961

 

 

 

 

--

Ryan T.

901.484.9961

 

 

 

 

--

Ryan T.

901.484.9961

[Canasian]

Sights - Classic Army

CA-MB-MP5FS

Classic Army MP5 Front Sight for A4 / A5

 

On www.wgcshop.com search mp5. Filter with sights. Is this what you're talking about? 53 bucks is a hell of a price to pay just to have a silencer however. The one I listed is the 19 dollar one, but it's looking a bit short as if it were just a front-end. =/

[sketchfox00653]

heyaz, guyz

 

Sketch here; thought i'd let ya'll know i'm joining the ranks of those willing to invest in a long shot like the UTG MP5 with high hopes.....i'm kidding.

 

^^! i cant wait to get mine. sadly i couldn't afford to add an extra battery or even ammo to the deal... funding issue

 

well, i cant wait to put all the wonderful advice and information you all have offered to the test. >:3 i'm drooling just thinking about it...gun comes soon, ammo some time next week. i'm gonna hopefully top it off with a spring, the brushings and then leave it at that as far as internals are concerned.

 

imagine it; metal outer body, extended barrel, rail handguard capable of accepting a large battery, nitro V2 rail sleeve and a nice scope. Automatic sniper from hell. (>^-^)> i cant wait!

Laterz

[ef9]

so staticzero any luck with the wiring ?

[staticzero]

I had a pretty busy day today, didn't have time to do the write-up. Hopefully tomorrow morning I'll be able to get it done. Sorry for the wait!

[ef9]

hehehe im sure everyone is eyeing the upgrades possibility for this gun.... cant wait =)

[Redeye]

Staticzero, I've already mentioned this over at the Airsoft Retreat forums, but this post was a gold mine of information. Thanks again.

 

Red

[mrpapadopolis]

Where do you get the extension wire and deans? And what exactly all do you get??

[staticzero]

Where do you get the extension wire and deans? And what exactly all do you get??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Please read THE WHOLE THREAD before posting. I coverd this a few times already. Refer to this post. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=411143 Thanks.

 

Staticzero, I've already mentioned this over at the Airsoft Retreat forums, but this post was a gold mine of information. Thanks again.

 

Red

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the kind words, both here and there.

 

Everyone: The rewiring guide is coming soon. I'm nearly done with it. Stay tuned!

[slayer544]

is it 16AWG or 14AWG? you mentioned both but which is best?

[staticzero]

is it 16AWG or 14AWG? you mentioned both but which is best?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

16 is the most that will fit in the gearbox. 14 can be used in the body for the extension to the handguard compartment, but it will be very tight. There's no practical limit as to what you could use to route out the back of the body to the stock's compartment, as far as I know.

 

I used 14 for the extension initially because it's all I had on hand. I've since rewired the whole thing with 16, and that's what the guide will indicate.

[staticzero]

Guide to Rewiring the UTG MP5

(or TM or CA for that matter I suppose)

 

Overview

Because the stock wiring in the UTG MP5 is restrictive, the motor can not get enough power to run an even slightly upgraded spring. Replacing the wiring is a more cost-effective and overall a better solution compared to simply replacing the motor. Users who do not wish to upgrade their spring can still benefit from this upgrade, as ROF will be increased somewhat.

 

The purpose of this guide is to illustrate specific details regarding the installation of upgraded wiring in the UTG MP5. It is not a how-to on disassembling the gun or the gearbox, or a guide to soldering, though some aspects of these issues will be covered. If you are unfamiliar with any of the following prerequisites, please review guides available elsewhere on the internet for more detailed information on those topics.

 

Prerequisites to this guide:

1. Must know how to disassemble the body to access the gearbox and wire extension. This may help.

2. Must know how to disassemble the gearbox to access the switch assembly and wiring. This may help. There are a TON of gearbox guides on the net, so if you need more info, try this.

3. Must know how to properly solder/de-solder. If you don't know, well ask google.

 

Parts needed:

1. 16AWG Wire, Red, 32 inches (high quality high strand count)

2. 16AWG Wire, Black, 26 inches (high quality high strand count)

3. Connector, Male (Deans or similar low-impedance connector), for gun

4. Connector, Female (Deans or similar low-impedance connector), for battery

4. Optional additional set of connectors (one Male and one Female), to allow easy rewiring to the stock

5. Optional low resistance fuse assembly

6. Optional additional male connector, to convert your charger if need be

7. Optional additional female connector(s) to convert your other batteries if need be

 

Tools and supplies needed:

1. Philips head screwdrivers (multiple sizes, all small. At least P0-P2)

2. Wire cutter/stripper

3. Soldering iron

4. Flux

5. Solder

6. Shrink tubing (included with Deans connectors)

7. Hair dryer, or other suitable heat source for shrink tubing

8. Third hand, or other other clip/clamp system (optional but advisable)

9. Patience!

 

A few things to keep in mind while reading this guide:

1. I've already been in the gun and changed a few things, so what you see in my pics isn't exatly what your gun's parts will look like. I'll call out the differences when they're encountered.

2. Care should be taken not to over tighten screws when you put them back during reassembly. You could easily strip the threads. Most screws found in this gun are either tiny, go into plastic, or are self-tapping.

3. The rear intermediate connector is optional. You can choose to use one continuous wire to the handguard or stock, if you like. Having the extra connector makes it possible to rewire to the stock without needing to disassemble the body again. Omitting it is fine, and that'll be one less interruption in the wire. Hardly a bad thing. I chose to maintain the flexibility the connector affords.

4. If you want to keep the fuse you need to buy a fuse assembly, or solder the fuse in-line with the red wire as part of the extension. Be sure to shrink wrap the ends if you solder it directly. I chose to omit the fuse.

5. Remember to fire a few shots in semi to make sure the main spring is at rest, this will ensure the gearbox doesn't pop on you when you open it.

6. I replaced a few parts in the gearbox when I was in there last. I had some parts laying round and I figured they were better off getting used as they were better than what was in there stock. You don't have to replace these parts.

7. While you're in the gearbox, check the compression and consider changing out the piston head o-ring if the compression is bad. This is discussed earlier in the thread, do not ask about it or I will snap at you. Unless you have a question related to it that hasn't been covered, of course.

8. This would also be a good time to check the shimming as long as you're in there.

 

Make sure you have a good work area, and a place to put all the little bits so you don't loose them. I usually like to work on a towel, it keeps things safe, absorbs oil and grease to a degree, and prevents parts rolling away.

 

Begin by removing the handguard and stock pins. For the handguard, you just push it out (You should know this by now).

 

For the stock, you'll need to remove the philips head screw first.

 

Next, remove the lower receiver pin. It has a philips head screw just like the stock pin. Note this pin is slightly shorter than the stock pin. Also remove the philips head screw that holds the mag catch to the side release button, just above the receiver pin.

 

Push out the mag catch.

 

Now loosen the selector lever retaining screw. You needn't remove it completely, just loosen it. It's especially important to use the correct size screwdriver on these really small screws, otherwise you risk stripping them.

 

With the left side lever off, you can pull out the the right side lever and actuator shaft.

 

Now remove the two screws from the grip bottom plate.

 

Don't loose the little metal disk!

[staticzero]

Disconnect the slide connectors from the motor and pull the motor out. You may need to grab it with your fingers or pliers and wiggle it a bit to get it free if it feels stuck. Be gentle, it doesn't take much.

 

Now you need to remove the two screws down inside the grip. Having a magnetic headed screwdriver will help you get them back in if you take them out all they way, but it's possible to leave them in there if you're careful. Just pull the lower receiver off as you loosen them (keeping the grip pointed up) and they should stay in. This will make your life easier when it some time to put it back together.

 

The next step is to slide off the lower receiver. Don't worry about the white plastic selector plate actuator, you can't remove it until the lower is off. Be sure not to lose once you do remove it though.

 

Now remove the rear sight screw seen in this picture. The sight can then be removed. You needn't remove the small windage adjustment screw. Don't lose the nut found inside the body.

 

To remove the front assembly, simply remove this screw. Don't loose the nut. The front set can then slide off the gun and be set aside. Note that the wire in this photo is 14AWG that I had installed previously, it is not the stock wiring.

 

Here's the front set partially removed. It just slides apart from the main body.

 

Here it is completely removed. Don't mind the spring.

 

Next we need to remove the screw rearward of the hop up unit.

 

And then the screw near the mag catch area.

 

Finally the one near the rear sight.

[staticzero]

The hop-up adjustment lever is held in by an o-ring. You can just push the lever out from the right side. Don't loose the o-ring!

 

Great, now we can pull the body halves apart. I prefer to take the left side off the right, like so (These next few pics came out bad. Sorry. )

 

Remove the top piece and set aside.

 

Remove the mag catch bits and set aside.

 

You'll be unhappy if you lose that brass tube.

 

Remove the cocking handle spring and spring guide.

 

Disconnect the rear connector. Note this is a deans connector installed by me previously. You'll have a large type Tamiya connector here.

 

Lift out the gearbox.

 

Remove the two screws that hold the hop-up mechanism in place, and remove the unit and inner barrel.

 

You can now remove the extension. It'll have a piece of masking tape securing it to the body. Here's my original extension, for reference.

[staticzero]

Time to open up the gearbox. Remove the screws and remember where each one goes. You should make sure you can put the screw back into the hole it came out of, to avoid damaging the threads in the gearbox.

 

Remove the right side of the gearbox, keeping a finger on the spring to keep it from popping out.

 

The gearbox apart. Note that I've previously installed an Area 1000 metal spring guide, a stock CA spring, an a G&G piston and piston head. The stock spring will be more silver, and the spring guide and piston set will be white.

 

Remove the cylinder set including the tappet plate and set aside. You'll need to get this spring free first.

 

Remove the trigger and the gears. Don't loose track of the shims, keep them with the gears they go with or else you'll need to re-shim the box later!

 

Here we see the wiring configuration in the gearbox. Take note of this, you need to put your new wire back like this.

 

Remove this screw to free the switch assembly from the gearbox. Removing it isn't 100% necessary, but it will be easier to work with if you do.

 

Remove this spring from the switch assembly.

 

The switch can now be removed.

 

Here's the stock wiring removed. Again, that's the deans connector I put on previously. Yours will be a Tamiya.

[Tunershark]

wow static you should be getting paid to do this, lol

 

i think i might give that a try later on

 

and canasian, i managed to fit a silencer that came with a spring m9 on mine, i took off the end cap on the silencer and inside there was about a 1 inch barrel wich fit nicely into the muzzle of the mp5, and its in there pretty good

 

 

go here: http://photobucket.com/albums/a213/tunershark/ to see more

[staticzero]

The switch. Time to break out the iron and de-solder these connections.

 

Here's the size of the gearbox wiring segments. If you're going to use the intermediate connector, you need one ~8" length of black, one ~8" length of red, and one ~6" length of red. If you're going to do it in one go without the intermediate connector, then it's a 26" length of black, and 8" length of red and a 24" length of red. note that you'll have a large Tamiya connector in place of the deans seen here.

 

Get soldering. Strip the wires 2-3mm and tin all your connections inclusing the deans connectors and motor connectors.

 

A third hand is, well, handy. Solder the 6" length of red wire to a male connector, there's a little + in the plastic to indicate the correct post (or just make yours look like the picture). Solder the 8" length of black to the other post. Note that If you're omitting the intermediate connectors your wire will be longer as mentioned above. Slide some heat shrink tubing over each connection and blast it with the hair dryer.

 

Now solder the 8" length of red wire to the lower terminal on the switch, and the length going to the connector to the upper terminal. Refer to this picture if you need to.

 

Replace the switch assembly and route the wires through the gearbox. Refer to this picture if need be. The length of red that is connected to the upper terminal is routed first, it runs all the way out the back. Next, route the red wire connected to the lower terminal. Finally, route the black wire. Use a q-tip or other 'safe' implement to press the wire down into the channel. 16AWG will be tight in there, but it will fit. Just be careful!

 

You need to be careful as you do this, it's quite easy to nick the wire on the edges of the gearbox, especially around the tight corners. If the insulation is damaged, you risk the wire grounding out the the gearbox. If this happens, the second you connect the battery the gun may potentially fire on full auto regardless of the safety or trigger position.

 

You should also pay special attention to the routing of the wires near the switch assembly. They need to be clear of the trigger movement to avoid being pinched or otherwise damaged. You needn't worry about keeping the hole in the gearbox just below the screw that holds the switch assembly clear, as this isn't an armalite and nothing needs to go through it. Use that extra space to your advantage, flatten out the wires into that space a bit.

 

Make sure the wires are routed out of the back properly. You don't want them to be pinched when you close up the gearbox. The red wire should be below the black wire in the channel, so it's best to rout it out of the top of the slot and the black out the bottom of the slot.

 

Also take care when closing the gearbox not to pinch the wire where it's routed out the bottom.

 

Now is the time to put the rest of the bits back in place in the gearbox, and close it up.

 

Finally, make your extension if you're going that route. Use a female on one end (the rear one) and a male on the other. This photo shows the correct placement in the body. I secured it down with some electrical tape, but this isn't necessary. If you skipped the intermediate connector, it's going to be a bit trickier getting things routed and the gearbox back in. be patient with it. Alternatively, you could just route the wire out the back if you're only going to use the full stock's battery compartment.

 

Put all the bits back in the main body, and close it up. Put back the lower receiver next, routing the wires through the holes and out the bottom. Slide in the motor part way, and solder the wires to the correct terminals (there's a + to indicate which is positive).

 

Replace the grip end plate, making sure to include the little disk between the motor and the adjustment screw. The plate is directional, with the side with the little bump on the end going towards the back. See this picture.

 

Now is a good time to connect a battery and test fire the gun. If it works as expected, put everything else back together, and you're done!

 

One last note: Here we see the intermediate connector. Using a small flat head screwdriver or similar tool you can separate it, allowing you to connect an extension running to the stock's battery compartment. You're on your own if you need to make a stock extension, I've not done it and don't know how much wire you'll need. After all this I think you can swing it though.

 

 

The last component of the wiring that could potentially be improved is the switch assembly. It's possible that the metal used in it isn't the best. If you have some copper laying around and want to try and fashion new plates, by my guest. Otherwise buying an expensive Systema replacement is the only choice that I know of.

 

With all this done, if you still want to replace the motor or use a meaner battery, feel free. Now you can be sure you'll be getting the most out of the new one!

 

While I was in there, I swapped out the CA spring for a Systema M100. The gun now chronos slightly over the forum limit. The result I got puts it on par with your average TM MP5 with an M100, from what I've been told. This probably makes the M100 too hot for you UK types depending on your field's rules. Sorry! (Mods: If that last bit is a no-no according to the forum rules, please edit or remove it. Thanks. ) Try slightly lighter spring from another manufacturer, perhaps a Guarder SP90. The ROF is 730RPM. The gun works reliably, and in my testing so far, it has not locked up. With a 1 joule-ish upgrade in this gun, even with upgraded wiring, you may wish to use a 9.6v battery with lower internal resitance for the sake of better ROF.

 

I suspect there are some components of the air system, possibly the nozzle/cylinder head connection and nozzle/hop-up unit connection, which could be optimized. But you have to ask yourself if it's work the significant parts cost to gain those few potential FPS.

 

An album with higher res versions of the pics is here.

 

Questions, comments, concerns? All are welcome. Just do your best to make sure I didn't already cover it earlier in the thread please.

[CallOfKtulu]

So if i put in that wiring, I dont need to buy a new mottor to putt in a m100 or the other huricane spring, the one i cant mention?