phatire Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 Sil3nt Snip3r, ya some sand paper would help, just work on the 2 raised casting lines. Thats what I did and man what a difference... Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 How do you "fix" something if its not broken? Someone else already took it apart and has picks, why do you need to? Link to post Share on other sites
Xet Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 haha something i thought was funny i asked leapers for some help and here is what they said >regarding the gearbox, we do not have any detail information about the >internal gearbox. Following is web site with some pictures: >http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=30898&hl. I hope >it could give you a little help. haha really popular and helpful thread static got going so i would like to add my thanks too Link to post Share on other sites
Redeye Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 It seems, to me, that the big problem with producing a cheap AEG is that it puts them within financial reach of people who shouldn't have them, much less take them apart and mess with them. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> My, how elitist of you... So only individuals that can spare $250 or more dollars should have the privilege of owning AEGs, and thus automatically have the smarts to take them apart and mess with them. Hmmm.... Link to post Share on other sites
bignaz Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 Yeah due to the fact a aeg coust $150 more dosent mean that people will know how to work on them. It just means they payed more. Givein the low price will invite more newer players to buy them i have seen people with maruis who dont know what a fuse was. Link to post Share on other sites
justsomeguy Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 My, how elitist of you... So only individuals that can spare $250 or more dollars should have the privilege of owning AEGs, and thus automatically have the smarts to take them apart and mess with them. Hmmm.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's probably not what he meant. When a parent looks at a 250-dollar "toy", they start to investigate and consider the possible repercussions or benefits of it. 100 dollars is a much smaller sum compared to 250 dollars. They're less likely to put as much thought into it. It might become a gift for some little kid's birthday party, who in turn might shoot himself in the eye. Link to post Share on other sites
Canasian Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 Well anyways, <3 the UTG Mp5. It's prompted me to get their full-stock shotty and... Gas BB KSC Steyr TMP and godamn I <3 it. UTG MP5 was my true-gun entry point and me showing my friends has made them get an mp5 too. I was also considering TM's and ICS guns until I saw the TMP. UTG is growing the market for EVERYONE and not just for cheapasses. This may not be directed towards anyone but I know some people think this way. Link to post Share on other sites
Redeye Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 That's probably not what he meant. When a parent looks at a 250-dollar "toy", they start to investigate and consider the possible repercussions or benefits of it. 100 dollars is a much smaller sum compared to 250 dollars. They're less likely to put as much thought into it. It might become a gift for some little kid's birthday party, who in turn might shoot himself in the eye. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ah, I see you point. Well, if that was his meaning, I have to apologize! Link to post Share on other sites
anathema888 Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 Nice modification. I tried on my MP5. I haven't got any new spring so I will need to reopen the box again. Minor note: upon completion, I found I lost my semi-auto mode. I noticed that the slide panel wasn't too smooth and also there was one little spring (#28 slide of staticzero right under the cylinder) marginally connected from time-to-time. I may fix it next time I open the box when I get the spring. After mod. it does sound and feel more powerful as the motor runs. Minor suggestions: 1. Upon inspection of the wiring, I think the connector is the big big problem of weak power. staticzero's point of soldering the wire to motor is great. No RC car ppl use any connectors for their motors. 2. I found my multi-meter is handy in this case that I can make sure connectivity before screwing everything back into one piece. If you have one, use it. Great work of staticzero! Link to post Share on other sites
bignaz Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 Today i was offered a G&G UMP for my UTG MP5 lol. Mind you its fully upgraded with systama parts but the ump had some upgraded but he even said my utg out shot his gun and was way better and it made him mad lol. He did say hes gonna get one soon. update the 3rd shipment are haveing some problems. Im helping a guy out with one now and when i find out what it is and fix it i'll post a how to. to me it dosent seem major and should be easy to fix Link to post Share on other sites
Kraus Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 Hi, Yesterday I was shooting in auto, sort burst of bb, suddenly when i press the trigger again, the gun got jammed. It was like, the motor trying to spin, and the gears turning just a bit and getting jam. Every time I pressed the trigger it was the same, half turn and jam. Did anyone experience something like this. Not a battery problem, it was full. Link to post Share on other sites
justsomeguy Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 It's what happened to me. The gears have been caught in the wrong position. THere's unsynchronized. So you'll have to open up the gearbox to fix that. Link to post Share on other sites
Xet Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 ah I did all the wiring today except for the battery and charger and I must say this was extremely simple and easy. If you are scared of doing this dont be me I cant even assemble a gearbox right but this was no problem what so ever. So dont waste money on a new motor because you are scared to solder its very easy. Link to post Share on other sites
bignaz Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 You gotta make shure your gun is timed right. its not that hard theres guides all over the net. you can be of a little and it will still work fine. its just a matter of timeing the sector and tapper plate and piston. Link to post Share on other sites
arclight Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 i have a cople of questions about the gun.I play in back of ppls houses ALOT and some times in the woods you sead the gun was not good for the woods but the type of playces i play in is pritty close and there are a lot of woods so my questions is how would this gun do in the woods o and 1 outher thing this will be my 1s aeg how will it do Link to post Share on other sites
Xet Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 it will be fine in the woods especially if u upgrade to an m100 you will get the distance needed and its a great gun. Ya and bignaz i tried all ur stuff but it seems with these ca bushings I either need more of them or I lost a few Link to post Share on other sites
FuzzyWuzzyBear Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 Hey all. I just had to take my UTG apart because it was misfeeding BB's...I had to move the barrel away from the hop-up unit a little. Anyway, I put it back together, but I put the motor in the wrong way (I need it to go the other way so the connectors can reach their spots). And, now the motor won't come out no matter how much wiggling I do with pliers in the central plastic part. I've been really gentle and really forceful - I almost warped some of the metal with how hard I was trying to get it out. I don't want to break this thing - is there an alternate way to get the motor out besides tugging and wiggling on it with pliers? Link to post Share on other sites
arclight Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 no thats not what i ment i mean like how good is the gun made and how do u think it will react where i play and i dont think im going to put on upgrades. o and wher did u buy from Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 Hey all. I just had to take my UTG apart because it was misfeeding BB's...I had to move the barrel away from the hop-up unit a little. Anyway, I put it back together, but I put the motor in the wrong way (I need it to go the other way so the connectors can reach their spots). And, now the motor won't come out no matter how much wiggling I do with pliers in the central plastic part. I've been really gentle and really forceful - I almost warped some of the metal with how hard I was trying to get it out. I don't want to break this thing - is there an alternate way to get the motor out besides tugging and wiggling on it with pliers? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I dont know of any other ways to get it, you might try lubercating it in some way with a liquid libercant to hope it will drip down to the gearbox, but with the grip screwed on and a motor in I dont think there is a way to take it out without messing something up. no thats not what i ment i mean like how good is the gun made and how do u think it will react where i play and i dont think im going to put on upgrades. o and wher did u buy from <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The gun is made of high quality. What do you mean how will it react? No upgrades its fine. I purchased mine from Airsoft Atlanta. Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodfire Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 After drilling holes in the piston head, replacing the o-ring and shimming the gears, I finally got my gun back together and its working better then before. I got a pretty good fps increase so I am very pleased. And to everyone who contributed helpful information, thank you! Link to post Share on other sites
longjohn Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 Can the UTG accept metal bodies meant for the TM? and where what are some good metal bodies for the mp5? Link to post Share on other sites
Xet Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 ya its compatible with all tm parts so a metal body for tm would work look on wgc shop there are a bunch there Link to post Share on other sites
anathema888 Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 Do you guys know if the stock cylinder be strong enough to take a Systema M100? Should I also change the cylinder? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
Xet Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 no only upgrade needed for m100 would most likely be rewiring and if ur openning the gearbox might as well do it. Its extremely easy Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted October 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 Greeting all, and congratulations on all the successful upgrades. I'm glad to hear this thread has been a help. For those having problems, you're probably going to find help faster if you post a new thread in the technical forum. Your problem may be one that can occur with other guns, not just the UTG MP5, and you'll get a wider range of experienced users' attention if you post a new thread about it. Also, don't forget to search, you may find your question has been answered in the past (especially the mechanical or general ones). Okay, time for some new information. Because of the demand for an easy suppressor mounting solution, I decided to examine the possibility of using a TM or CA front sight. If it worked, it would allow the use of standard 14mm +/- threaded suppressors using the right muzzle adapter. I borrowed a Classic Army front sight and flash hider from a friend to compare. I am working on the (perhaps false) presumption that the CA and TM front sights are the same. Well, basically this isn't going to work without significant modification. Here we can see the sights next to each other, the CA is on the right. Again, CA on the right. You can see the holes for the sling pin are different. There's also a nub on the side of the UTG sight. You can also see the set screw on the bottom of the CA sight which the UTG sight lacks. CA on the right. You can See the UTG has a cut out at the top. Also the hole through the sight, as well as the holes that the barrel and cocking tube fits into is larger. This illustrates the UTG sight's fit. This illustrates the CA sight's inability to fit. This further illustrates the CA sight's inability to fit. Here are the sights compared to the CA flash hider. CA sight on the right. Note that my front sight looks kind of rough because I painted and sanded it, a process I've not yet finished. Recommendations - With the primary goal being to use threaded muzzles with the UTG MP5, based on the above observations there are several ways I could see going about this. 1. Replace the whole front set or just the cocking tube/sight/muzzle. This probably shouldn't be considered if only due to the cost of it. 2. Modify the UTG front sight to accept a CA/TM muzzle. This should be possible, though doing it in such a way as to make sure the connection is solid would probably require the muzzle be permanently attached to the front sight. If I were to do it this way, I'd dremel out the hole to fit the new muzzle, and epoxy it in place. 3. Modify the UTG cocking tube to accept the CA/TM front sight. This is the best solution if the ability to change the muzzle needs to be preserved. The post at the top of the cocking tube would need to be cut down, and the end of the tube filed down to fit the sight. Alternatively, the sight could be modified (though since the sight is metal this would be more difficult). Modification to the sling pin hole will be required as well, or a CA sling pin could be used. I have no plans to try any of these ideas, as I have no need or desire to use a suppressor with this gun. In other news, over the weekend I installed a spare TM EG1000 I had laying around. It feels like the ROF has improved, but I have not measured it yet. The trigger response is better too. After trying it with the 8.4v battery I switched to using a 9.6v battery (now in the stock). This improved things even more. Note I didn't change anything else, the gun still has an M100 in it. I also painted the sights using some flat black Tamiya model paint a while back. The result is good, but I need to sand it a bit more and maybe apply a few more coats. Link to post Share on other sites
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