justsomeguy Posted October 11, 2005 Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 It's a common problem nowadays with UTG guns. THe gears are stuck in the wron g position. You have to take the gun apart. Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted October 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 There is no need to take it apart, if the battery isn't charged. That would be a lot of work for no good reason. The fact that the motor starts to move but can't turn over may be indicative of insufficient power to the motor, not an internal mechanical jam. It's still possible that they're getting stuck, perhaps due to a shimming issue. Make sure the battery is fully charged and then try shooting it again. If it's still jammed, you can try to fix it yourself if you're comfortable with that, or else contact the shop you bought it from ask them to fix it. If you can't resist doing something to try and fix it, the first thing to do would be to remove the lower receiver so you can get something in the motor hole to release the anti-reversal latch. After that put it back together and shoot with your fully charged battery, and see if it locks up again. This could be one more example of how the gun can benefit from better wiring, but it might also be the result of improper or just plain poor shimming from the factory. Link to post Share on other sites
AH71886 Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 I dont know if this was addressed already in this thread, but I have feeding problems. I can only get off about 3-7 BBs on either semi or full auto before having to wind again. I wound the mags all the way, took them apart, lubed them, etc... The gun shoots very well upside down if that tells you anything. Is this a mag problem or a gun problem? Should I get better BBs, new mag, any solutions? Pls help thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadesoffunk Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Thanks, charging was the only problem I guess. My first AEG, my bad. However, this is not my first airsoft gun and I feel that the sling is not bad at all. I have to bike to go airsofting, and my backpack is full of mask/bbs/scope/etc. The sling on this gun is very nice. I have a UTG m87 shotgun, which does have a sling problem. The mount can fold in, hindering the pump. My M16 also has a sling, which is very nice. However, the gun is too big to bike with in a way. The sling on this mp5 is very nice because of how easy it is to put on and off. The gun is the perfect weight and small enough to work perfectly with the sling, Do not "toss the 'sling'", because it is not garbage. If you need to pull out a pistol, the sling could save your <yeah>, like it did mine. Link to post Share on other sites
KilloBite Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Thanks, charging was the only problem I guess. My first AEG, my bad. However, this is not my first airsoft gun and I feel that the sling is not bad at all. I have to bike to go airsofting, and my backpack is full of mask/bbs/scope/etc. The sling on this gun is very nice. I have a UTG m87 shotgun, which does have a sling problem. The mount can fold in, hindering the pump. My M16 also has a sling, which is very nice. However, the gun is too big to bike with in a way. The sling on this mp5 is very nice because of how easy it is to put on and off. The gun is the perfect weight and small enough to work perfectly with the sling, Do not "toss the 'sling'", because it is not garbage. If you need to pull out a pistol, the sling could save your <yeah>, like it did mine. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Not to be off topic, but I would highly recommend that you NOT sling an MP5 over your shoulder and ride your bike down the street. Most law enforcement folks will frown but realize it is not a real weapon, but the general populace may not have as clear a grasp and get kinda "freaked". Get a bigger backpack, or maybe a duffle you could sling over your shoulder to get to the field. Link to post Share on other sites
frontplayer15 Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 How do you open up the A4 buttstock? Because im trying to get out the stupid concrete block so i can put a battery in there. Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 I dont know if this was addressed already in this thread, but I have feeding problems. I can only get off about 3-7 BBs on either semi or full auto before having to wind again. I wound the mags all the way, took them apart, lubed them, etc... The gun shoots very well upside down if that tells you anything. Is this a mag problem or a gun problem? Should I get better BBs, new mag, any solutions? Pls help thanks. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Read before post! Anyways, you need to wind it up; WIND UP ALL THE WAY! That means past the first increase in tension after it starts adding to the memory and stops actaully moving the bb's, and untill it cannot be wound anymore, or about every 5 clicks it goes back in tension. Please, provide more information. BB's shouldn't be the problem if thats true. If it were an actual problem, it would be a mag problem. It shouldnt be able to shoot that great upside down because there is the sprocket feeding thingy blocking the way. Sounds like you didnt wind it all the way. Winding takes 2-3 minutes -------------------------------------------------- How do you open up the A4 buttstock? Because im trying to get out the stupid concrete block so i can put a battery in there. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You push the rubber butt down. See the space between the rest of the stock and the end that goes agianst your body? Push the smaller part down hard, and it will click out of place and you can pull it off. Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Edit to 1 post. Link to post Share on other sites
jojin Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 I have only been in the airssoft sport for a couple of months, been using gas pistol. Naturally I was excited when I heard about the UTG MP5 (been wanting to get into AEG) And reading trough this forum, it seems to me that there hasn't been any major problem with the UTG. And Staticzero's 16gauge swap seems to be the most cost (money and performance wise) effective way of upping the UTG's ROF. Now here's my thing, I have scraped up enough money to buy a TM MP5. Would guys say forget the TM and just get the UTG and save the extra money for something else? or..go ahead and just get the realiable, tried, and true Tokyo MArui. Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted October 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 That depends on you. Are you prepared to do a little work to get the UTG to be all it can be? You need to be comfortable going in an rewiring it, and maybe tweaking other aspects of the internals. If so, then it's better to get the UTG over the TM and save some money for other things. If it were me, and I were really committed to the MP5 as my platform of choice, I'd probably save up more money and go with an ICS/AE or one of the new CAs. They'll be better overall than either the TM or UTG thanks to the metal body, stronger internals, and higher out of the box FPS. But if I just wanted an AEG, and I liked the MP5, and didn't want to spend so much money, the UTG would be a good choice. The UTG is especially good if you want to get your hands dirty, you put less money on the line when you decide to go in and upgrade it. And as far as I'm concerned both the TM and UTG's out of the box FPS leaves much to be desired, so upgrading is required. So you see, it really does depend on you, and your goals. Link to post Share on other sites
jojin Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 I have been into RC since who knows when, so prying up the UTG and getting into the nitty gritty shouldn't be a big deal ( I can always use the diagram you made just incase my mcgyver skills fails me). I definietly think the UTG MP5 could be a great tool for CQB, but do you think (of course with proper tweaking) It can par up againts the longer barrel guns in occasional outdoor battle? or should I just get a longer barrel gun like the M4A1 or the m733 commando? Cause the setting is getting drop off in the woods, then infiltrating enemy base (I guess that's when the UTG MP5 will come in handy). Thanks for any help/ comment given. I'm still very fresh in this hobby and having a hard time deciding which primary weapon I should get. Again thanks . I certainly have my eye on UTG cause, IT'S SO G*DANG CHEAP! I guess bottom line I'm jsut a lil iffy cause of the saying "you get what you payed for" ps. if you guys think this should be move into a diff forum, pls do so, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted October 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Put simply, barrel length has nothing to do with accuracy, it will only affect range (due to the BB getting to accelerate for a longer time hence more FPS). You can get power (range) other ways, so I wouldn't get too hung up on needing a long gun in order to have range for woodland. Tuned correctly, the MP5 (or most small AEGs for that matter) can handle both situations, and as you mention it will be at an advantage in close quarters compared to longer guns. Link to post Share on other sites
jojin Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Ok, on last thing. If and that is IF I was to go for an ICS/ CA (whish Ive read alot of bad reps about) or the CA which version would it be? Link to post Share on other sites
ShootStuf Posted October 14, 2005 Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 since i would preffer to not have to use the full stock for battery storage as i like haveing a collapsable one what do you think is the beefiest battery i could fit in the handguard of this thing without having to modify it? thanks for your help and this guide is great Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted October 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 Ok, on last thing. If and that is IF I was to go for an ICS/ CA (whish Ive read alot of bad reps about) or the CA which version would it be? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Search, search, and more search. Read reviews. Hold them if possible. Then, if you still can't decide, post a thread in newbie or general. Also CA just released a new generation of MP5s, there's a thread on them in the news forum. The new design makes the CA pretty competitive IMHO... since i would preffer to not have to use the full stock for battery storage as i like haveing a collapsable one what do you think is the beefiest battery i could fit in the handguard of this thing without having to modify it? thanks for your help and this guide is great <{POST_SNAPBACK}> An 8.4v 1200mAh Intellect mini pack is the most you can fit in that case, as far as I know. I don't believe there's a way to get a 9.6v pack in there without modification. Certainly that's the highest mAh you're going to get, either way. They are pretty awesome packs though. Link to post Share on other sites
osok Posted October 14, 2005 Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 Remember, the man makes the gun not the other way around. I have the UTG and loaned it to a 16 yr. old. He got 10 kills with it against 2 Tm M-4's, a sig 552, an M-16, an Mp5, 2 ICS M-4's and a ICS MP-5, a G-3 and a P-90. Link to post Share on other sites
sketchfox00653 Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 Heyaz, guyz I had a question. I have bb's that say 6mm .24 Cal. Can they be used in this MP5? Laterz, Sketchfox Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 We need mass in grams, we cant judge by calibre (Is that the correct brit spelling?). Anything above 12 milligrams (.12gs) is fine. Id recommend .20g for outside, and .25g for CQB (thats just what I do). Link to post Share on other sites
Knaight Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 Couple things: First off, you know how the right side selector switch is kind of mushy? It's because the connection to the left side through that nylon piece really isn't very strong. I fixed it by cutting out a very small piece of thin sheet metal and using it as a shim inside the nylon. It holds the switch in much better and as a result I have a much nicer switch. Secondly, a friend is building me a custom silencer and I am going to put in a new tightbore barrel that goes the whole length of it, so I'm going to be gaining about 9 inches. I was wondering if anyone knew what kind of FPS gain I can expect from this. And third, I'm going to rewire the gun and put in a PDI 130. I am going to buy a new battery, and I want my investment to be a good one. Would it be bad for the gun to buy a 9.6 v battery, or should I get an 8.4 one again? I'm going to put it in the full stock, how many MAH should I get? I don't really want to spend over 40 bucks. Any suggestions? thanks -Nate edit: as far as those 6mm .24 cal bbs go, those are walmart or ######'s bb's i'm guessing, and you don't want to use those in your gun. they suck and are misformed and have burrs. bad news for an aeg. Link to post Share on other sites
billsfallen Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 I have the gun and i was wondering if u could just move the wires back in to the inside of the gun and just get more wire and sodder them together and run it to the back so just extend it? and Is it all selector switches that have a problem? Because on mine i can go from safety to semi with no problem then to auto...but if i want to come back dow to semi it still shoots auto...unless i go really slow and get lucky ...if its on all parts shouldn't utg give me some money or send me the part instead of me having to buy a new piece, grant it the piece is like a few dollars? and can u list the metal parts beacause i cant tell? thanks Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 Couple things: First off, you know how the right side selector switch is kind of mushy? It's because the connection to the left side through that nylon piece really isn't very strong. I fixed it by cutting out a very small piece of thin sheet metal and using it as a shim inside the nylon. It holds the switch in much better and as a result I have a much nicer switch. Secondly, a friend is building me a custom silencer and I am going to put in a new tightbore barrel that goes the whole length of it, so I'm going to be gaining about 9 inches. I was wondering if anyone knew what kind of FPS gain I can expect from this. And third, I'm going to rewire the gun and put in a PDI 130. I am going to buy a new battery, and I want my investment to be a good one. Would it be bad for the gun to buy a 9.6 v battery, or should I get an 8.4 one again? I'm going to put it in the full stock, how many MAH should I get? I don't really want to spend over 40 bucks. Any suggestions? thanks -Nate edit: as far as those 6mm .24 cal bbs go, those are walmart or ######'s bb's i'm guessing, and you don't want to use those in your gun. they suck and are misformed and have burrs. bad news for an aeg. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> By putting in a longer barrel, you wont gain FPS, you will loose fps. It adds more friction which will slow the bb down. 9.6v is fine, I just wouldn't run the 10v's with it. Yes you would have to use the full stock, and id get a large battery. You could get a 1000mah for around $35, but Id go ahead and pay $45 for a Intellect 9.6V 3800mAh - Large Type ( Ni-MH ) http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i....6V%20Batteries. I have the gun and i was wondering if u could just move the wires back in to the inside of the gun and just get more wire and sodder them together and run it to the back so just extend it? and Is it all selector switches that have a problem? Because on mine i can go from safety to semi with no problem then to auto...but if i want to come back dow to semi it still shoots auto...unless i go really slow and get lucky ...if its on all parts shouldn't utg give me some money or send me the part instead of me having to buy a new piece, grant it the piece is like a few dollars? and can u list the metal parts beacause i cant tell? thanks <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I dont understand your first question, its not worded correctly. If your asking wether you can use the frount extension to put the battery in the full stock, yes you can. And you dont need to bother with soldering more wire on, its already about twice as long as you need it. Yes my selector is having a few issues where it sometimes shoots full auto when its on semi auto mode. Email Leapers, they will send you a replacement part but I dont think it will fix the problem. Metal Parts: Claw mount, trigger, selector, mag release, frount sling holder, cocking handel, screws and such, and mag clips. Link to post Share on other sites
UMPire459 Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 Wow, I need this AEG for christmas. Also nice write-up static. Link to post Share on other sites
Canasian Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 By putting in a longer barrel, you wont gain FPS, you will loose fps. It adds more friction which will slow the bb down. I think there's a reason why longer barrel AK's and M4's will outshoot an MP5 and Mac11 outside. A tightbore barrel will not add more 'friction'. If you've ever seen your BB's fall out of your mag chamber or front barrel, it doesn't exactly just roll out. It.... 'floats' out so to speak. That's because barrels are like BARELY over 6mm kind of like when you drop certain heavy flat glossy pieces of wood onto another flat smooth surface, it doesn't bang. It just kinda makes a crazy thin-air sandwich then rests. Same thing with a 6mm BB in a 6.03mm barrel. The longer the barrel, the more range it will have and more FPS because the BB will get to accelerate faster through minimal air-resistant brass tube before it gets exposed to the outside where air-resistance becomes a huge factor. If the barrel is too long though, it is harder to keep it perfectly straight. There's a thread here where you can change out the stock UTG MP5 barrel for a $10 SRC M4 barrel and gain a solid 20FPS. They covered the extra-inch-uglies with a brass union from Home Depot and smooshing a silencer onto it with electrical tape. Link to post Share on other sites
sketchfox00653 Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 By putting in a longer barrel, you wont gain FPS, you will loose fps. It adds more friction which will slow the bb down. 9.6v is fine, I just wouldn't run the 10v's with it. Yes you would have to use the full stock, and id get a large battery. You could get a 1000mah for around $35, but Id go ahead and pay $45 for a Intellect 9.6V 3800mAh - Large Type ( Ni-MH ) http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i....6V%20Batteries. I dont understand your first question, its not worded correctly. If your asking wether you can use the frount extension to put the battery in the full stock, yes you can. And you dont need to bother with soldering more wire on, its already about twice as long as you need it. Yes my selector is having a few issues where it sometimes shoots full auto when its on semi auto mode. Email Leapers, they will send you a replacement part but I dont think it will fix the problem. Metal Parts: Claw mount, trigger, selector, mag release, frount sling holder, cocking handel, screws and such, and mag clips. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Heyaz, guyz I think the problem was covered earlier between the selector switch and the fact that- almost everyone is having a selection problem. I 'think' (thats think, not 'know') StaticZero covered this earlier in the forum by explaining the problem was with the hop-up and what you could do to fix it. I seriously dont know, but im about to check. (>^-^)> Laterz, Sketchfox Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted October 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 Hopefully the following will make it easier to get all the info out of this thread (it's gotten quite long hasn't it?). I'm going to PM Shao and ask him to add the TOC to the major posts too (those listed in the TOC). A FAQ is also in the works, I'm not going to add it until I add some more info to it and clean it up a bit. UTG MP5 Table of Contents 1. Overview and Initial Impressions 2. TM vs UTG Body Comparison 3. Hicap Mag Examined 4. Rewiring Guide 5. Front Sight Examined 6. No Modification 9.6v 1650mAh Custom Battery for the Full Stock or Aftermarket Handguard: a. About the Battery, and Installing in the Handguard b. Installing in the Stock 7. Noteworthy Links (This one) Noteworthy Links Some info on checking the compression and changing the o-ring if needed - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=406203 Some info on the wring including what I bought, where I bought it, and what it cost - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=411143 Some info on fitting suppressors without modification - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=415038 Some info on the Guarder Tactical Handguard - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=399948 Jordan74's review with stock performance information - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...showtopic=30154 bignaz's guide to installing a Well MP5SD (LPEG) front end on the UTG MP5 - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...showtopic=31849 TM MP5 Manual - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filnavn=/a...a4a5/index.html 1Bean1's post on fitting a suppressor using a union - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=418230 1Bean1's post on modifying the stock to use a large type battery - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=403438 1Bean1's post with some additional info on the hicap mags - http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=409301 Guide to changing the hop up bucking, covers disassembly of the body - http://www.blessy.com/airsoft/mp5hop/index.htm Need wiring, connectors, or a battery? http://cheapbatterypacks.com rocks. Link to post Share on other sites
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