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UTG MP5 AEG Dissected! Quite impressive really...


staticzero

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Ok Question on the rewiring. I've read through all 31 pages of this beast of a thread and not many questions have been asked on how to change the connectors on the Battery and Charger? Are we supposed to just remove the old connectors from the battery and charger and replace them with the Deans connectors or what??? This thread is great and VERY informative!!! GREAT JOB STATICZERO!!! ;)

 

 

Oh BTW...With the O-RING problem??? What o-ring is having the problem? The Piston Head or the Cylinder Head? Or Both???

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Ok Question on the rewiring. I've read through all 31 pages of this beast of a thread and not many questions have been asked on how to change the connectors on the Battery and Charger? Are we supposed to just remove the old connectors from the battery and charger and replace them with the Deans connectors or what??? This thread is great and  VERY informative!!!  GREAT JOB STATICZERO!!! ;)

Oh BTW...With the O-RING problem??? What o-ring is having the problem? The Piston Head or the Cylinder Head? Or Both???

 

On mine i just pulled off the connectors with pliers lol. And cut the metal peice off that was attatached to the wire, or ucould just cut off the stock connectors.

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Anything on the O-ring??? Cause when I get my gun, I'm going to fix ALL possible problems before having to deal with them later... :D 

 

 

When I took mine apart, the cylinder head o-ring seemed just fine, the piston o-ring on the other hand was total doo. I replaced it and put some good lube gel in there and all is very good.

 

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This is the piston correct??? systema_a07.jpg

 

err i believe it to be the cylinder head. it is part of the piston. i could be wrong. :unsure:

 

just a quick question and a comment:

 

1 my question -> on a board that specializes in China made aegs one thread mentions the utg is manufactured by well - can anybody corroborate? i'm sure utg is q.a.'ing the stuff like anything

 

2 my comment -> it has been suggested on that same board that the utg compression problem stems from the poor quality o ring on the piston head and that replacing it plus porting the head could give it an added boost. (I only mention this because what i have read here - its mostly been theorized whereas the other guys had put it into practice - i am asking pemission from them if i could post their pics)

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err  i believe it to  be the cylinder head. it  is part of the  piston. i  could be wrong.  :unsure: 

 

just a quick question and a comment: 

 

1 my question -> on a board that specializes in China made aegs one thread mentions the utg is manufactured by  well - can anybody corroborate?  i'm sure utg is q.a.'ing the stuff like anything   

 

2 my comment  -> it has been suggested on that same board that the utg  compression problem  stems from the  poor  quality o ring on the piston head and that replacing  it plus porting the head could give it an added boost. (I only  mention this because what i  have read here - its mostly been theorized whereas the other guys had put it into practice - i am asking  pemission from them if i could post their pics) 

 

 

The picture is of a piston head, might, or might not work, depends on the back of the darn thing. The cylinder head is the top of the cylinder, it does come out, but does not actually move when the gun is fired. As for the o-ring and porting, that is what I did, I put a higher quality o-ring on the stock piston head and also drilled out the top of the piston head (porting as you called it). It seemed to make a difference, maybe 10 - 20 FPS and about an extra 5-10 feet of accuracy.

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The picture is of a piston head, might, or might not work, depends on the back of the darn thing. The cylinder head is the top of the cylinder, it does come out, but does not actually move when the gun is fired.  As for the o-ring and porting, that is what I did, I put a higher quality o-ring on the stock piston head and also drilled out the top of the piston head (porting as you called it).  It seemed to make a difference, maybe 10 - 20 FPS and about an extra 5-10 feet of accuracy.

 

When you said porting it I would drill holes in these right?

systema_a07.jpg

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Ok Question on the rewiring. I've read through all 31 pages of this beast of a thread and not many questions have been asked on how to change the connectors on the Battery and Charger? Are we supposed to just remove the old connectors from the battery and charger and replace them with the Deans connectors or what???

You can just cot off the onld one and solder on a deans, or you could make an adapter if you wanted to.

 

Oh BTW...With the O-RING problem??? What o-ring is having the problem? The Piston Head or the Cylinder Head? Or Both???

Piston head.

 

1 my question -> on a board that specializes in China made aegs one thread mentions the utg is manufactured by  well - can anybody corroborate?  i'm sure utg is q.a.'ing the stuff like anything 

I've seen reports of this as well. Also, someone mentioned that the UTG is sold in the Philippines under the Well brand. I can't confirm any of this.

 

2 my comment  -> it has been suggested on that same board that the utg  compression problem  stems from the  poor  quality o ring on the piston head and that replacing  it plus porting the head could give it an added boost. (I only  mention this because what i  have read here - its mostly been theorized whereas the other guys had put it into practice - i am asking  pemission from them if i could post their pics)

Yes, the o-ring is quite poor and replacing it can make a big difference. Some users here have also ported the piston head with success.

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Lol. Its just like within a month period you got the mp5, ak47, and the star saw. How big is your entire collection?

Well not exactly a month. I got the MP5 on 9/1, the AK on 10/17, and the M249 on 11/1. The MP5 and the AK were really cheap too. I had to think about the M249, I probably shouldn't have done it as there are some other non-airsoft things I need to buy. But, it seemed like it would be a lot of fun, and there's a game coming up, so I decided what the hell. And because of the way the matrix AK turned out, the money I had lined up for a metal body and wood furniture and such was available. It's not like I'm buying $580 guns every other week like they're nothing. Though, yeah, I have bought a lot of guns lately. Mostly cheap ones.

 

I really enjoy taking apart and studying and playing with new and different designs. It's tough finding more fuel for that, so yay! for cheap guns AFAIC.

 

[/offtopic]

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OK, New content time!

 

There has been demand for info as to the best 9.6v battery choice for this gun. I decided to investigate options for the handguard first, as this allows you to maintain the ability to use both stocks (I may look into one for the stock later on). I found that 9.6v double nun-chuck packs made with AA cells existed for the MP5. Several are commonly available, but they aren't made with the best cells around. I have a pack built with CPB16500AA cells for my UMG that I'm quite happy with, and so I knew they'd work well for this pack too. They have great capacity and discharge characteristics, and AFAIK they are the best choice around at the moment in an AA cell. Well, I decided to go ahead and get one, and share the results with you.

 

So here's it is! It's a 9.6v 1650mAh double nun-chuck pack built with CPB1650AA AA sized cells. In my experience, this is enough power to play all day. Your mileage may vary. It was built with 16AWG and a female deans connector. It fits in the handguard (even my Guarder taclight handguard). It cost $24 plus $3.85 shipping (USPS Priority Mail) for a total of $27.85.

 

96v1650mAhAAMP5.jpg

 

With this pack, an M100, complete 16AWG rewire, and an EG1000, my gun's ROF is about 884 rounds per minute.

 

Here's the kicker: It DOES NOT FIT IN THE STOCK HANDGUARD. It's too tight at the barrel end. It does, however, fit in my Guarder taclight handguard. It may also fit in the cheaper one available from JT, or one of the CA or G&P versions, but I can't say for sure. It fits in the full stock without modification (aside from rewiring to the stock and pulling the weight out, of course).

 

So, it seems an 8.4v mini is still the only choice for a battery for the stock handguard. Get a couple of mini's made with IB1200 cells if you need the best you can get for the stock handguard.

 

It's a bit awkward to get it in place, even if you know how to do it. Here are some pics to help illustrate how it fits. Note that it may be harder or impossible to fit if you still have a fuse. I can't really say for sure, though, since I took mine out.

 

The pack.

IMG_7374.sized.jpg

 

It sits in there in sort of a 'V' shape, so the inner barrel can fit in between.

IMG_7373.sized.jpg

 

I could probably cut back some of the wire in my case (not a bad idea and I probably will), but it does fit. You need to arrange the wire so that it won't get in the way of the inner barrel.

IMG_7372.sized.jpg

 

Here you can see the way the wire is routed. Tuck the connector into the handguard above the battery on the left side.

IMG_7371.sized.jpg

 

Put the back in place first, and then rock it up into position. Pop the pin in and you're done!

IMG_7370.sized.jpg

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Zero,

 

Can you take some pics and tell me how to take the weight out of the stock. Im confused by the pics posted earlier, and well you do great work with the pics and instructions :D

 

If i rewire to the stock and put the double nun-chuck battery pack in it, will it rattle around as i move or is it solid in there?? is there any way to fix it if it rattles??

 

thanks

 

Bristol

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Zero,

 

Can you take some pics and tell me how to take the weight out of the stock. Im confused by the pics posted earlier, and well you do great work with the pics and instructions  :D

 

If i rewire to the stock and put the double nun-chuck battery pack in it, will it rattle around as i move or is it solid in there?? is there any way to fix it if it rattles??

 

thanks

 

Bristol

 

if you put like newspaper around it, it wont rattle at all, thats what i did with the Weight thats in there. it was kinda rattly so i wrapped it in newspaper and its all good now :D

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Zero,

 

Can you take some pics and tell me how to take the weight out of the stock. Im confused by the pics posted earlier, and well you do great work with the pics and instructions  :D

 

If i rewire to the stock and put the double nun-chuck battery pack in it, will it rattle around as i move or is it solid in there?? is there any way to fix it if it rattles??

 

thanks

 

Bristol

Sure, be right back with that.

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Well, it just turns out that I had a moment. ;)

 

That handguard should fit, as long as it's meant for a TM MP5. Can't say for sure obviously, as I don't own one. Similarly, I can't say for sure the battery would fit in it. Worth a try though, I'd wager.

 

On to the battery in the stock.

 

Start by taking out this screw and knocking the pin out. Remove the stock.

IMG_7375.sized.jpg

 

Here's the weight as seen through the gun end.

IMG_7376.sized.jpg

 

Pop off the butt plate with a downward push.

IMG_7377.sized.jpg

 

There's the weight again.

IMG_7378.sized.jpg

 

Go in from the back with something that will fit and give it a push.

IMG_7379.sized.jpg

 

It'll come right out.

IMG_7380.sized.jpg

 

Here it is next to a 7.2v large type battery. You can see that it takes up as much space as an 8.4v large type would take up.

IMG_7381.sized.jpg

 

Now make or buy or otherwise acquire a wire extension for the stock. This one is out of my M15.

IMG_7383.sized.jpg

 

Run it though the bottom. If you have an in-line fuse, run it through from the butt plate side. It might take a little finagling. Just look at what you're doing and you'll get it.

IMG_7386.sized.jpg

 

Here's the wire in place as viewed from the butt plate side. Note the position of the fuse.

IMG_7388.sized.jpg

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