Jump to content

SpecialWeaponsAndPlastic

Members
  • Content Count

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by SpecialWeaponsAndPlastic

  1. It does not look that hard to do.

    I had a look at the bolt from a friends Dominator 870 and compared it to my own APS bold, and it did not look overly difficult to convert it from Tanaka-style shells to APS standard. I am planing to make a video on the subject during this season, but I don't know exactly when.

    • Like 2
  2. I was playing around with Fusion360 and my 3d-printer and came up with this little beauty:

    post-101073-0-82496400-1519431255_thumb.jpg

    So I began to wonder if there is any general interest among airsofters for a Hyman S. Lebman-style compensator, even though it's 3d-printed?

    If not, I'll just keep it as a nice touch for my future project. :)

  3. I've been experiencing some double feeding issues with my CAM870P, especially while ghost loading. So next week I'll upload a video of how I fixed this issue:

    gif_repair_cam870_doublefeed_v1.gif

     

    If I remeter correctly, CatGutViolin had the same problem, so if you haven't fixed your shotgun yet, this video might be relevant to your interests?

    • Like 1
  4. So to confirm before I order from asia;

     

    To use the cool PPS shell catcher (one that folds outwards)

     

    I'll need

     

    1) APS scope pins

    2) PPS shotgun shell catcher

    3) 5mm drill bit to make the hole bigger

    4) Profit??

     

     

    @Nonex, have you used yours yet? Is it better then the APS Shell catcher? Assuming you can load a shell in the ejection port now!

    To repeat what NonEx so elegantly said: Yes x 4.

     

    And CatGutViolin:

     

    I recognize your problem since I have experienced it myself on one of my full length CAM870's. I can say that the problem is, much likely, not related to you or your ghost-loading technique. My full-length 4+1 CAM870P also seizes up by double feeding shells when it is ghost-loaded. And when I turned the shotgun upside-down I noticed that the left shell latch (part no. 870-17 in the CAM870 manual) was bent out of shape (APS call them "CAM870 ejecting plate" in their spare parts list, for some reason), and would not engage quickly enough to catch shell #2 when feeding the ghost shell, causing a double feed. On my AOW, the shell latch was in perfect working order, and I'm planing a "Tips & Tricks - CAM870 common problems" where I address this issue.

    My only advise would be to buy a new pair of shell latches (or "ejecting plates") and hope they don't get bent during shipping. You could, technically, bend the faulty latch back into shape. But it is a precision part, and you would be doing it at your own risk.

     

    Please update with any information and progress, since I am curious to see if this works out as good as I am hoping. If nothing else, I will cover the issue in season two.

  5. I'm really looking forward to that (contemplating a V1911 myself) and also really liking these .gif previews - very cool indeed.

     

    [EDIT]Having watched the video - which is neat, thanks - I'm looking at the hole in the rear of the V1911 where a pressure switch might be attached. What sort of pressure switch might one use? And does anyone have a guide to doing so? It looks like there used to be one on Arnie's, but it's long gone...

     

    Also, you say the LED isn't great. Can it be replaced? And if so, does a drop-in LED module fit?[/EDIT]

    Thanks for watching!

     

    I have a few more upcoming vids about the V1911. I'll have to see if I can squeeze them in this season, of if I have to wait until after new years.

    The module I have has been thoroughly investigated and dismantled, so I have a few strategies in my head that I will try out until I reach a conclusion.

     

    Unfortunately, the LED is quite cheap indeed. My first thought when I bought the unit was "Wow! This is one bright and focused beam!" but after dismantling the bezel I found the prism needed and things started to make sense. The V1911 manual accompanied with the light mentions the LED-unit as a spare part, complete with part number and all (VF9-VLT-LEDQ5-01), but the sites I found it on have removed most spares but the slide catch from their inventory. Maybe asking VFC directly is the way to go? Otherwise, when the LED burns out, I'll try soldering another one onto the plate. Worst case, I still have a busted bulb. 

    Since SureFire parts fit the V1911 there's always the option to use a SureFire bezel, or a SureFire bulb, if the soldering fails. But using a SureFire R30 bulb, which costs between 19 and 29 dollars, in a 50 dollar flashlight makes me cringe.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.