snorkelman

quick follow up standard AGM mag gas capacity looks to be around 27g difference between empty and full which is over 1.5x that of the GHKs

one thing that might be worth a try is increasing the length of the valve lock cut out to increase dwell time of the valve lock as a rough guesstimate Im thinking of trying to duplicate cubic capacity of the WA which puts us at somewhere in region of 23.3mm length for the cut out (up from original 17mm) Ino's 15.8mm bore x 17mm stroke sees 3.33cc of capacity fed by gas from the mag before the valve shuts off whereas WA's 18.5mm bore x 17mm stroke sees 4.57cc sooo.. 15.8mm Ino bore with increased 23.3mm stroke = 4.57cc

it can - undoing two hex screws will see the gas key removed (and a bit of blunt force on the tighter ones)

I can get one and a half mag fills out of a single fill of gas on a GHK mag ie 65 rounds or so of .25bbs 'summer' spring (1.5x times stock spring strength), alu buffer (2x stock buffer weight) and steel RAT bcg around 10 percent heavier than stock AGM carrier if you want to do a comparison with standard mag gas capacity, then full fill of Abbey ultra/propane adds 17g or so to the overall weight of the GHK mag. Re the snagging carrier if it is down to BB misfeed then check the mag lips - if they're too wide then you're going to have BBs popping out under spring pressure - really

as far as limiting the JDT FPS Id hazard a guess that the existing brass flute valve and return spring could be swapped out for plastic AGM one with ts lighter spring - chop down front of the AGM one it doesnt need to be as long, leave the back of it intact. You can then shim it to sit further forwards same way you could on an original AGM one (the rear of the JDT one is flat nowhere to place shimms against) If you've access to a lathe alternative would be to turn a new castle section - shoulder cut further back, rear of it extended as a threaded tube and a matching thread cut internally

I think I see what you mean - screw on the breech face limits how far the spring at other end can push the ramp part along the adjuster?

you cant as per previous posts amongst other changes its a 15.8mm diameter bolt while the standard WA design is 18mm or there abouts

never used that hop unit but spring applying max hop is the norm on the conventional WA hops (AGM G&P RAT etc) the barrel adjuster on those then counteracts the spring to reduce hop, so my guess is the prime style rear adjust is the same?

@luis idea is to fix it not to bodge it mine was already cycling it just wasnt doing so with any sort of worthwhile ROF in auto. A sanded oring might produce the desired result in short term, but is going to pickup and hold onto any contaminants, will break down quicker etc @mutikasha the trouble with tight versus loose is it can be a toss up between better gas efficiency on one side, and waaay increased chance of the carrier sticking open (at full stroke the oring passes over the cut out on bottom of the carrier) leaving it bound up halfway inside the upper and halfway inside the buffe

well 30 mins of working the boltcarrier in and out of the upper while smeared with this and ended up with bolt carrier looking like this: contact point on lower edge just above the valve lock camming suface contact point on upper edge just below the gas key mount loads of light contact on left hand side again heavier contact on left hand top edge all the way allong from gas key to front of the carrier note little extra contact on the anodized nozzle assembly too at this side) contact on base of the rear of the carrier pretty much all

keep us posted I was planning to order one just for a look see but I'll hold off see how you get on with it

no worries, next time it plays up in auto let me know wether the 'no racking bolt carrier' options above help any and we can take it from there

should shoot the only two issues using the AGM sidelock (other than it usually desnt let the nozzle tube fit) are: a - its more prone to snapping (the sidelock plate limits how far the nozzle/bol assemly extends from the carrier so can be subject to a fair whack of force) b - the plastic ones allow the nozzle tube/bolt to extedn a few mm further out than the RAT one by looks of the photos, and as the plate wont go in even without the nozzle assembly fitted, then we can pretty much rule out any issue with the central groove machined on it that the side of the nozzle tube runs

OK check for any small burs/dings little chewed up bits on the inside of the RAT one, the alloy is quite soft and will burr easily may have formed enough of a lip or high spot to stop it going back in flush

tried fitting the plastic AGM sideplate onto the empty RAT carrier, if the carrier is machined to proper RAT spec then the AGM sideplate should fit (though you generally cant actually use the AGM plate with RAT nozzle and bolt assembly) if you have time a photo or two might be handy - one of the RAT plate (not fitting) in the carrier, one of the inside of the plate on its own and one of the pocket it sits in on the carrier

result all you need to do now is see where the side plate is sticking its got a groove cut into it that should match up with rail that runs along side of the nozzle tube One might not be marrying up with the other - groove cut in side plate too narrow (forcing whole nozzle assembly to the left rather than fittin in the groove) or cut slightly too low (rotating the nozzle assembly off centre) Might even be the side plate is too thick at the rear (not letting it sit flush in the recess thats cut in side of the carrier) Id remove the e-clip and swap out the oring for the o

aye probably one to have your first shot at in the morning after a nights sleep start with removing the sideplate (that might be enough on its own).. Opposite of last time - if you have the carrier in your right hand nozzle pointing left turn it so the side plate is facing the floor and pull the nozzle assembly out an inch or so - with any luck gravity should lend a hand and the rear of the side plate will drop down then slide the nozzle tube in and out that inch or so a couple of times see if the side plate works a bit looser starts sliding further down and towards yor right

ok dokey, few more for you 1 is the nozzle assembly centred in the carrier? flip carrier upside down and with it horizontal and front pointing to the right, takea close look at the cut out in front of the carrier, compare the gap between left hand side and right hand side of the gas port on bottom of the nozzle is there more of a gap at bottom than at top? RAT bolt assemblies are machined with quite a lot of slop between them and the walls of the carrier - could be enough on yours to allow the bolt assembly to be rotated slightly clockwise 2 withdraw the bolt around an inch and a hal

with the upper open the trigger should never allow the hammer to be released while you have selector set to auto unless a you cocked the hammer while fireselect was set to semi and then switched selector to auto b you cocked the hammer while selector is in auto and then flicked the hammer lock forwards c you cocked the hammer in auto, switched to semi and back to auto reason for all that mlarkey is that when set to auto the hammer lock only releases the hammer to allow it to fire when the bolt carrier is pushing the hammer lock forwards/downwards auto problem

@t_hum yep no real need for it to be seperate in this fixed NP design, its really just a throwback to when Ino were using a positive pressure system, that required the section where the castle is to be a seperate part so the length of the bolt was set then. When Ino moved over to neg pressure the bolt could have been lengthened so it incorporated the length of the castle part and had the castelations cut into the end of it. However my guess is that as they already had plenty of bolts sat there at that length (and the castle part) so they just retained them for the NP version They'd

puts the castlated support for the valve under tension valve with small spring goes into nozzle tube castlated support goes in next (the shoulder on it limits its travel into the nozzle tube) front of heavy spring fits inside the support, rear of heavy spring slides inside the bolt and sits against an internal shoulder bolt is screwed into the nozzle tube, compressing the heavy duty spring between the support and the bolts internal shoulder

the Ino/JDT bolt parts dismantled thread lock

aye thats the one:)

one other area of extra weight on the ino carrier is the blowback chamber its 16mm ID rather than best part of 19mm for standard WA style carriers which adds another 1.5mm or so of wall thickness onto front half of the carrier that forms the blowback chamber too (another reason you're not going to be able to swap the Ino nozzle and bolt assembly out for a standard Wa/G&P/AGM/RAT etc one Course that means not only do you have greater mass of bolt carrier you've got a blowback chamber with a lower capacity (same stroke narrower bore) and less of a surface for gas to expand against..

check prices before buying G&P bolt stop - you might find its expensive enough that you could buy an RAT bolt stop and RAT hop rubber for same price as the G&P bolt stop alone (even allowing for a few dollars postage to cover cost of RAT sending you those two parts seperate from parts you're ordering elsewhere) the hop chamber in the EBB 'JDT hop rubber and aluminium hop chamber' is same hop chamber EBB sells on its own - if you're buying RAT rubber along with RAT bolt catch, then just buy the hop chamber on its own (dont bother with the extra few dollars to buy it with hop rubbe