snorkelman

RAT three round burst kit only downside is I wont be able to fit it till sunday (too much work on to make time for it till then)

I'll see your silver and gold paint, and raise you pimpadelic Glacier Blue microflake work in progress more horror to come

muwahaha!! 20-08-2009 17:30 International Hub En route to delivery depot 20-08-2009 17:26 International Hub Arrived in destination country 18-08-2009 09:37 Delivery Agent - TAIPEI - PTT RAT 3 round burst trigger group has landed ...and skipped past customs so no inspections and fees to slow things down, should have it here tomorrow for fitting and testing

biggest issue with stock hop rubber is that its as thin as an old rubber glove, hence the lack of contact with the nubs on a lot of them (esp with the masking tape removed). Replace it with a beefier one (ie the RA-T red one) and the nubs usually end up needing reduced rather than enlarged I wouldnt regard the hole any real sort of issue though nice to hear its no longer there, I know some folks regard it as a potential air leak point but if the air was getting between the rubber and the inner barrel then it could just as easily leak out the front if there wasnt a hole in the side

Indeed though as you've said yourself the requirements for airsoft use are lower so its hardly a selling point of having used real steel boltcarrier versus the RAT one then is it? hardened steel is going to be harder on the tooling thats the reason I mentioned it If we work on same max price as an RAT carrier then you're looking at 130 You've got a starting cost of 65 bucks which leaves you 65 to play with to cover welding and machining costs and turn at least enough of a profit to make it worth the risks of all the effort involved. If we work on basis that majority of those interested mi

an RAT carrier is 120 130 bucks machined from steel and proper fit you're going to have to source full auto carriers, weld em up, machine em to suit (if hardened then they're going to need annealed) and cut them down to the correct length (with yet more work on top if you start with semi auto civilian carriers) tbh if you're going to go to that amount of effort you might as well start with some steel bar stock and take it from there, and hope the chinese dont suddenly bring out a cheap n cheerful steel carrier of their own at the 70 or 80 bucks price range at a perfect time to ruin

Aye looks like the same gun as the RSOV one but with naff awful trades. to be honest half this stuff keeps changing its 'brand name' suddenly every chinese M4 GBB part on ebaybanned became 5ku, and airsoft global have had stuff listed as VTEC then renamed it 5ku etc The PDW on RSOV described as ACM isnt the dboys one, theres differences between them. in any case dboys have a big enough name now it would be kinda silly for them to keep changing it for no good reason Im pretty sure their M4 GBB will ship under their own name and that this isnt it. if you mean "Empty-Firing

depends on where its sticking and by how much - the AGM is around a 10th and 5th of a mm wider than the RA-T one at two points along its length (very front of it and at the rear) whereas the RAT is around a 10th of a mm wider than the AGM midway along its legth

the ACM at RSOV is metal the JG is plastic Take a wild guess

at 70 buks or so the shipping and handling is same as for any other rifle of the same size and weight 70 just seems a lot more when the gun is only 65 bucks rather than 399

same set thats in the rifle so same results will apply - the little metal nub at front of the bolt carrier has a very good chance of wearing away/falling out and the nozzle/bolts will break at the rear like you say depends on what sort of round count you can get out of each set work your way thru 10 or 12 sets and by time you factor in shipping you'll have spent same as an steel RAT bolt carrier and aluminium nozzle set. Pretty much going to have to comit to ordering three or four each time too - otherwise you might only hit half a dozen individually ordered sets before all the ship

couldnt resist the pink as this is a bit of a funky coloured paint job and I couldnt quite make up my mind what colour to use I opted to try it with basic emulsion paint first. Yes the stuff you paint walls with Reason for that is its cheap (you can buy the little 'tester' sized pots for pennies from local DIY store in all sorts of possible shades) and its relatively easy to remove and have another go, so you can try before you buy. If you dont like a particular colour once its on the gun you're only down a buck for the tester versus 15 bucks worth of proper paint you then find isn

GHK mags use multi chambered tubes so in practical terms not too much of a differenece versus using NLS'd WA mags as far as the pin replacement mods goes its probably still worth doing (and only real place to put the pin if you do want to relocate it). Folks just need to be aware that any future rebuilding of the bolt they do might require an extra step or two (and which is probably why we wont see any of the factories adopting that placement of the pin) as far as propane versus 134a goes is hard to tell each individuals reasons, my guess is that it'll be a combo of the following tw

cheers for that, if you get chance to take a closer look at it wouldn't mind finding out following: Seperate barrel extension? (AGM moulds it into the upper but not sure if JG will have been able to do that on a plastic upper) WA compatible buffer tube thread? (AGM has milspec tube but with a thread of their own) Buffer tube diameter (ie does it take RS/AGM/WA/G&P stocks or does it take AEG ones) One peice alloy outer barrel, or multi part design? Outer barrel using a fat collar as per the WA and AGM 061/062, or thin collar as per RS, G&P and AGM063/64/65

aye if you've bought one may as well get use out of it, personally Ive no plan to buy another one for any other build (based on the wire guage, cpi and ID/ODs a spring strength calc will return results that show only 3 to 5 percent difference between the two) thru pin mod looks worthwhile (means the point where the parts are joined is no longer same point getting whacked by the side lock plate) and shimming gap between bolt face and nozzle tube is always worth while. My only concern would be the extra fidlyness it might need to rebuild a bolt with that mod done to it eg when

not when its got a GHK gas blow back conversion in it

proper magazine isnt going to fit in that one...

none if you have an AGM spring - both the RAT winter and the stock AGM spring are as near as dammit the same strength (about 3 percent or so difference between them) The RAT summer spring on other hand is around 160 percent strength of the stock AGM and RA-T winter springs

Should do As far as I know the inokatsu bolt carrier is longer at the back so RAT supply a seperate Ino/prime carrier, but the npas set itself that they supply is same for all bolt carrier groups. I guess you could email RA-T themselves and confirm wether all the NPAS bolts and nozzles they sell are actually the same. edit - to be honest RA-T really need someone to sit down and rewrite their item descrpitions and explain the differences (if any) between half the options they've got listed on their website. It would clear up a hell of a lot of potential confusion and let folks buy

upper now blasted and first coat of primer basecoat colour choices decisions decisions will it be 'blue for a boy' or 'pink for a girl' lol Got a few days while the primer job is being completed to make up my mind

really not sure if the AS standard carrier will be that much better than the stock AGM one? -far as I know its a completely different beast from their lightweight CNC'd ones Other than that really cant say, as with all of these you're biggest issue would be any potential incompatibilities fettling required to get that combo to work together, hopefully someone will have tried them together already and can fill you in on that, otherwise you're kinda acting as the guinea pig

Good to hear it. Easy mistake to make - those hammer spring legs look like they're made to measure for sitting at the bottom of the lower receiver, whereas on top of the trigger pin is actually the proper place On a related point now you've got them in the right place, take a real close look at the trigger pin and you'll see that one side of it has a groove machined in it, if you get one hammer spring legs to rest right on that groove then it'll help lock the trigger pin in place, and reduce chance of the trigger pin from working its way out of the receiver under recoil.

hop up related issue? BBs not feeding consistently/being gripped fully on each cycle? That'd ruin your consistency in a really random way first thing to check there is that you've got the little rubber buffer in the upper receiver that sits in front of the charging handle, if its missing the charging handle can travel a little further into the upper than it should, which will let bolt carrier (and nozzle) travel further in there too and that in turn will force BB further into the hop chamber than expected.

If you're in that situation Id stick the standard nozzle parts back in while troubleshooting it (your problem was there with those already) saves risking it binding up etc while you have the shiny new bits in and those ending up damaged. Id even consider running it with no bolt catch takes one more variable out of the equation with above two done you can afford to ty and push up on the mag to see if theres an issue with height the mag sits at in relation to the bolt (I wouldnt do that with the new bits in place as you can end up pushing it up high enough to have the mag bind on the

cant say I've noticed any difference on mine (only hammer related issue I ever had was lack of consistent full auto lock when I used the Ino hammerlock and selector, other than that its been fine) tried removing it cleaning up the bushings regreasing and reseating it?