snorkelman

@ hot tuna - Ive checked against a spare bolt, go with the 3mm ones those are a decent fit regarding differences in barrel nuts mentioned a page or so back: the 063 064 065 use a thin shouldered outer barrel with a corresponding low shouldered barrel nut as per the G&P type. Not sure if the thin shouldred barrel is real steel spec or not but it certainly works with a real steel barrel nut and allows that type of nut to screw fulyl home on the upper receiver threads. the 061 and 062 use a thick shouldered outer barrel with a corresponding high shouldered barrel nut to scr

I think boomarms still has it at 15 dunno how much the shipping is from there though (cant be arsed with sites that expect me to insert everything including my shoe size, and get 90 percent of the way thru the ordering process before telling me the shipping cost) Im wondering wether PX has their system set to only list 'in stock' parts? might be one reason its not showing up at the mo

part 18 is an eclip, its either a 3mm or 2.5mm eclip (cant remember which exactly off hand, though from memory Im leaning towards it being 3mm) first two searches of ebay.com I tried I found these 3mm http://cgi.ebay.com/Thunder-Tiger-3mm-e-clips- PD0977_W0QQitemZ360156183087QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item53dafb3a2f&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116://http://cgi.ebay.com/Thunder-Tiger-3...p3286.m20.l1116 2.5mm http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-E-Clips-2-5mm-20-...p3286.m20.l1116 for the prices beign asked you might as well buy a bag of each and Im sur

got fung to send over one of the Element TD grips along with the 063 (a tan one as I wanted to test wether the plastic its made out of will take a dye job or not) It fits onto the lower but its too narrow at top (narrower than the base of the lower it mounts against so the lower overhangs the side of it) ah well least I can boil dye it now without worrying wether it'll shrink or not lol edit - the tan element TD grip dyes a treat less than 5 mins in boiling dye and it was done (with no shrinkage from being boiled for that amount of time). I used a spare plum dye caplet I had left ov

got a chance to take a look over the 063 I picked up the other day (the little shorty) compared with the 061: front sight block has a fake gas tube and hole to mount it, as per the 062 -the 061 has no gas tube just a moulding of one inside its hideous plastic handguards. If you want to add one to an 061 then you need to drill the hole for it in the front sight block. Only issue with fake gas tube on the 063 is it was fitted back to front at factory (woops) 7.5" outer barrel - again reasonably good quality as per the one on the 061/062. Main difference is that it now uses

just a quick heads up for anyone in mainland UK - Ive got an order going into RA-tech over the weekend its already over the spend 200 bucks get fresh shipping point, so if anyone is after any small bits and bobs (bolt catches steel sears npas nozzles etc) that wouldnt add up to a free shipping order of their own PM me and I'll see if I can sort out adding them in with mine. Not looking to make a profit on them so you'ld be paying the cost of the part, 15 percent VAT on value of those parts (if its stopped and levvied by customs) and cost of postage within UK to get it from me to you

its counter clockwise it runs contrary to how conventional threads work you turn it left (counterclockwise) to tighten it, and you turn it right (clockwise) to loosen it

argh no brainfart on my part lol, turn it left to tighten it only other thing normally holding it is the grubscrew underneath unless its been glued or loctited on yours

what oring are you using? - the red RAT one is sticky and gummy and at very least needs loads of lube (personaly Id ditch it for a stock off the shelf oring)

yes

hole in hop bucking - no need to seal it but you probably will need a wrap of tape around it to provide enough thickness to let the hop nubs put sufficient pressure on it going by other folks who've used it. Personally I'd dump it for a red RA-T hop bucking at 7 bucks free play in the hop unit - doesnt occur with the stock unit or the RA-Tech one (the most play I have in one of those is under 6 thousandths of an inch which is going to be within manufacturing tolerances for pretty much anything. the big mm or two plus only seems to have occured in the type of third party unit snoopy is usi

yep the one thats fitted in it when you buy it is plastic one

they screw in/out

Steel bolt carrier RA-T npas and an alloy hop unit will sort most of the breakage/awkward points on the gun. If you're on any sort of budget concentrate on those Obviously if you converted the rest of the internal gubbins over to steel you can pretty much button it up and forget about anything going wrong with it (bar basic maintenance or an occasional need for an o-ring or spring) but any breakages on those other parts are more down to luck of the draw occasional miscast part etc, and not that common, so I wouldnt be too concerned about having to get those

On a nice fresh full can of abbey ultra filled at room temp (18 deg C?) a GHK mag is full when it weighs around 15g to 18g more than it weighs empty. Running a 1 foot pound (380 FPs with .20) npas setting on heaviest combo of parts (steel bolt carrier, aluminium bolt, AGM hammer spring, aluminium buffer and a 140 to 150% strength 'summer' spring) I found it would spit out around a mag and a half per fill (60-odd BBs) Havent got round to counting them exactly as yet.

about to wear out my @ symbol here lol @midnight_sailor - perceived recoil on the AK is fair bit lighter than on my M4. @wraithxt1 - you'll get the thirty rounds of a WE out on auto without any probs, getting a full 60 rounds or whatever it holds out is a different story but not really a fair comparison if we want to treat all the rifles like for like @AirsoftHawaii90 210 USD is cost of the upgrade parts he bought from WGC @RedSpartan - internals on stock GHK are pot metal, RA-Tech does a 105 that they supply prefitted with their steel bolt carrier but otherwise uses sta

the RA-T one really is a peice of ###### to fit, what needs removed from firing block channel is little more than you'ld need to sand if something had an extra layer or two of paint. To be honest most of the five mins would be spent comparing catch with the firing block to see where the block needs sanded, tearing and folding a bit of wet n dry to sand it with and then double checking there was no binding afterwards - the actual sanding of the block itself wouldn't amount to more than 20 seconds tops Must admit if it was a choice between the two then Id rather someone flogged a steel valv

well personally Id buy the RA-T part for same 15 bucks, but bear in mind that photo on their site might actually be one of the stock AGM part..

aye mine had no eclip just the white spacer, I noted a little side play iinthe fit of the parts inside the lower (probably cause of lack of that e-clip) but just ended up using a gearbox shim on the opposite side to shim it out - right side of receiver|white plastic spacer|auto sear|gearbox shim|left hand side of receiver I'll dig out an eclip an shove that in it next time Ive got it opended up

FULL rifle strip down (and I mean 'every last nut and bolt' full lol) - this guide is from memory as I wasnt about to take that rifle completely apart again just now, so if you want it with a huge bundle of photos gimme a week or two and I'll photograph next one as I take it apart. This guide isn't in best possible order I'll tidy it up for photo version (which would probably be best in a thread of its own with an index) - its really just the easiest way for me to work thru it in my head and be sure I dont miss a chunk. Things like reassembly of fire control parts really do need a

yep and which of the three platforms is the MTW based on? WA KJW or WE I mean did you see me list it seperately to make four categories rather than three and then rate it in second place? Nopes I lumped it in with the WA design cos to all intent and purposes thats what its an even more accurate derivation of. You need to spend over 400 dollars on parts for WA to get it to shoot right and much more on the AGM - Sure total parts spend on the AGM has been 500 odd bucks in parts, but seeing as it costs 120 dollars to start with the fact the parts spend amounted to 130 or so more than your 4

Aye best way to do it, after all its not a race I actually spent best part of a week (possibly even a whole week) on mine prior to it firing a shot - parts checked, function checked, stripped, compared and checked again. best tools in anyones workshop are patience, an understanding of what you're working on and attention to detail, they're also the cheapest

I really dont want to take donuts KJW review any further into off topic, so might be best if this sort of stuff got moved over to the WA v We thread and it got expanded to cover all three? I promise to make this my last big post in it in any case cross manufac mag compatibility Market has coped without it in the gas pistols side of things, and manufacs are likely to keep same attiudes as they adopted there (tying buyers in, ego and competing IP rights) so I dont see any prospect of them getting their heads together and agreeing on anything. Gets pretty moot when it comes t

well as the WA arent reliable out of the box thats not exactly a high acheivement, I think the point he was trying to make is that by being third gun out of the traps and currently without third party support, then the gun itself straight out of the box is going to have to deliver the reliability of a high round count. a - Because theres no one else out there at moment stepping up to take care of that for it (if it turns out it cant do it itself) and b - if it does need someone else to do it for it, then chances are anyone who does will be doing so at a similar price to wh

Aye, I could have bought a WOC but how many parts of that would I have upgraded in turn? -I'd have saved myself the expense of steel fire control parts and mag catch, but would still have been looking at the hop unit (if nothign else just to see if it was any better) and would definately have bought the 260 buck bolt carrier group regardless. by comparison total cost on the AGM with upgrades as currently set up would have been between 620 (using parts I bought) and 540 (depending on wether the cheaper hammer and ambi selector that are now available prove OK) Incl purchase of the gun the W