snorkelman

I went with the ful RAt steel carrier, aluminium bolt and nozzle with adjustable NPAS etc 260 bucks you could probably shave a chunk off of that if you went with an aluminium bolt carrier, different nozzle asembly and skipped the adjustable NPAS I chucked in steel fire control parts - 160 for ones I bought at the time. current cheapest combo of those would be 31 trigger (Ino) 10 dollar RAT sear 14 dollar steel hammer 8 bucks for a steel selector (63 bucks total) however I've still to test that combo - will try it in next one Im building for a bit of a comparison I also di

@luis aye, you need to go in thru RA-Tech gas series WA page - most of them are listed as in stock at moment http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/rag/rag_wa...rag_wa_bolt.php but if you go in thru RA-tech agent WA product page all you'll see is products coming back soon message http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/agent_prod...nt_pro_g_wa.php

re the valve lock - look at rear of the mag where the valve is - you'll see a little black bar that sits accross bottom of the valve - if thats in the up position it'll revent the valve returning to the closed position press the top of the mag where that arm gets activated (if looking on the mag from the rear its on right hand side) so that it drops clear of the valve then check that the valve is springing out to its closed position as it should press it a few times with your finger and confirm it returns under spring pressure, if it doesnt then tease it out to its full leng

mucho weirdness with the non functioning rubber band having it in there is even more bizarre then anyways if you've got access to a set of digital scales and a nice fresh can of gas, can you weigh a mag when empty then weigh it again when filled?

I do, it isn't but its not far off Basically the RA-T one needs the channel in the AGM firing block opened up a few thou to make it a nice fit into it, but given that the RA-T one sells for 15 bucks it's worth the teeny bit of hassle fold up some medium grit wet n dry paper intoa match stick sized stick, run it along the channels in the firing block where the bolt catch would sit, test fit the part and repeat till it sits in there freely - not more than a minute or two's work at most and you'ld be done

difference with any other gun that doesnt have a humungous thread, is that the owners of those can search a whole host of different threads - some more upto date than others. Stuff thats only related to early revisions of a gun, will tend to be in the earlier threads. As a result theres less chance of folks stumbling on that old smelly info by accident, and getting led on a wild goose chase based on out of date info, than doing same search in a single giant topic that covers a gun from its 'barely into public beta' version thru to its 12 months later mature release. They also genera

@stealth yep little circular rubber buffer in there plugs into a hole insde the upper that sits it in line with front face of the charging handle. @sacairsoftsn00py should point out Im not talking paint scratches from racking the bolt carrier with the handle, Im talking about strong impact force wear thats peened the profile of the hollow RA-tech steel gas key into the inside face of the charging handle - you can see a distinctive circular area in the centre of the inside of the charging handle face thats remained unstruck while the metal around it has been compacted.

nopes bolt carrier stands off from the face of the extension by the 0.7mm when charging handle is in place (otherwise bolt carrier and bolt would be reaching same depth with charging handle in or removed) does look like the impact is on the charging handle - little circle of wear to the metal on the inside face of the handle where the fake gas key sits against it, and corresponding bruising of the finish on outside of it where outside face of the handle rests against the little rubber bump stop thats fitted in the upper. in comparison theres zero wear on finish of front face of the

bolt face doesnt get to ground out against the extension e.g. drop a bolt carrier group into the upper without a charging handle in there and the bolt will seat around 0.7mm deeper into the extension than it will with the charging handle in place. The fake gas key on top of the carrier bottoms out against the inside face of the charging handle first likwise remove the bolt from the bolt carrier and drop the bolt down into the upper on its own, when pressed fully home into the extension it'll go another mil or so deeper again so between the bolt carrier itself and the gas key on

remove the part I've highlighted in pink from the spring loaded rear trigger hook - dremel it off in semi the selector lever clears that part so that the rear hook will grab the hammer at end of every shot - preventing the gun firing another shot until shooter releases pressure on the trigger (which lets the hammer disengage from the rear trigger hook) in full auto the rear trigger hook is held back by the selector lever pressing against that part of it I highlighted in pink, so that the rear hook cant grab the hammer and gun can keep firing till trigger is released

yep as I wrote earlier if folks want to keep up with the current Big Giant Threads sure go ahead and do so (they're easy enough to keep track of if you've read them as they developed). Keep them open for that But it shouldnt become an expectation that other folks new to gun X or gun Y plough thru them, or search them first, or only post any questions on those guns in them and nowhere else, because then they cease to be threads and turn into ghettos.

Aye they supply it with a white plastic nozzle already screwed into their aluminium nozzle tube (Wa part1), the spare aluminium nozzles they sell seperately for 3 bucks a pop and the spare white plastic ones are 2 bucks each. as far as springs go the RA-Tech winter spring and AGM standard spring are pretty much identical, I've included an RA-T summer spring (RAT-S) for comparison gauge AGM 0.47" RAT-W 0.47" RAT-S 0.55" (17AWG) O/D AGM 23.0mm RAT-W 23.2mm RAT-S 23.5mm coils AGM 34 RAT-W 34 RAT-S 33 uncompressed length AGM

Has only had couple of thousand rounds/powered cycles thru it thus far so not much of a test, but the only places showing any wear at all are: 1 inside of the charging handle (where the front of the fake gas key on top of the bolt carrier contacts against it) its worn a very faint circle in the paint of that part 2 the lip of the hop up chamber has enough wear to remove the black anodized finish (but only the actual facing edge that sits right against the barrel extension, not the chamfered area leading to hop rubber) 3 one segment of the moulded in barrel extension has a teeny

@ luis - the only replacement of parts I did to the complete RA-Tech kit was the eclip (part 18) and the o-ring (part 19) Anythign else Ive mentioned changing,replacing or swapping was strictly temporary - e.g. to see how a 150 dollar kit or a 60 dollar kit bought on their own would fit along with AGM parts. @crasstoe - as luis said when I was fitting the parts you get in the 150 bucks kit into a stock AGM bolt carrier I didnt have the clearance neccessary to fit the RA-T aluminium side plate. The cut out in the side of the AGM bolt carrier was the right size to fit the sidelock (without

The only real benefit of buying them together as one assembly is that 20 bucks saving Sure it turns up preassembled but then folks can find they have to take it apart, throw away the ill-fitting red o-ring in favour of an off the shelf one and stick it back together again, much same as you would if you bought the two parts seperately Its also worth checking the e-clip they fitted closely as mine was warped and sloppy fit straight out of the box A few hundred rounds and it was so dished and opened out that it just wouldnt hold the spring retainer onto rear of the blowback chamber. C

tbh it seems like they're getting bought by the bucket load at the moment, so you'll see RA-Tech going out of stock every few days or so (they were out of stock for a few days last week, came back into stock and then sold out again) Personally I'd just keep an eye on it or email them and ask when its next back in. The adjustable npas aluminium bolt on its own at 60 dollars will fit - attach that to your stock AGM nozzle tube stick the lot back into your AGM bolt carrier along with the AGM oring (ditch the RA-tech red one) The complete npas adjustable set with steel bolt carrier at 2

I can see the attraction of them for folks that have followed them from day one but in all honesty I just feel they're a complete turn off for anyone trying to get themselves up to speed with the guns, not just these two guns theres a few other review threads that have developed into the same sort of thing. I think somewhere amongst it all, the WE thread has a wiki which will certainly help a bit, but I'd reckon the best compromise is to leave threads of that sort open for folks who want to use them (primarily the folks that have been following them for a while and have developed a taste

Sure, except in this case it isnt really a malfunction its more of a a fail safe - the trigger only fails to release the hammer in auto if some other aspect of the system is already in an error state - be it bolt carrier group not fully forwards, hammer lock trip face worn so bolt carrier doesnt have any effect on it, alignment of BCG and hammer lock out of whack etc. when airsoft guns replicate the fire control of the original this closely they're going to reflect same behaviour as the original when they hit those error conditions. On the airsoft version they could have factored in

Not a design fault, thats how the firecontrol group is meant to work on the M16/WA/AGM/WOC. The only times the trigger doesnt end up functional when hammer is cocked with selector in auto is when the BCG hasnt been allowed to return to battery and seat fully home. Either cause: a- the receiver is open and you're cocking hammer by hand (in which case you need to trip the hammer lock by hand to make up for lack of a BCG whacking against it) or b - cos the BCG has been returned to battery without allowing full force of the recoil spring to whack it home under its own steam (ie t

Ive guted everything out of the lower with no problems (either individually or in combination) with exception of selector and hammer lock tried Inokatsu lock and selector and couldnt get consistent full auto hammer lock - wether using both the ino parts together or just one of them along with the corresponding AGM part. Only using the original two AGM parts together did it function as it should Have got one of the cheap Vtech ambi selectors and a G&P hammer lock on order (gives me three hammer locks to play with) but they havent arrived yet

forgot to say valve locker is black and the end caps on the gas tubes are a dark grey colour (not sure if theres much difference I think the BB feed was opened up a little on ones made after initial batch and that was about it?)

well if you've ever owned a bicycle see if you've got an old C spanner or two knocking around. If you find one but it isnt a great fit just pad the area around the ring to protect it if the c-spanner slips. one in photo below is pinched from my lathe tools, but you should get similar cheaper versions of C spanners for use with stock tube nuts etc on pedal bikes etc?

I should have explained a little more - mine locks back with either 1 BB or zero BBs - ie the latch is already high enough to trip the bolt catch while 1 BB is still in the mag, if it doesnt trip with zero BBs I wouldnt expect it to latch with one remaining as far as locks back when pulled manually it might not neccessarily be the bolt catch or the actuating arm on the mag - the bolt carrier itself might not be cycling far enough under gas blowback to allow it to trip If its tripping OK with AGM mag and not with the GHK I'd chrono it with both mags - if the seal is just off on the G

Indeed, though worth bearing in mind it might not neccessarily be the RA-Tech hop unit thats at fault - could just as easily be the actuating arm in the AGM (ie so long as their arm works in their hop unit they might not be overly concerned about hitting 100 pcnt dimensional accuracy to the original WA part). That said at 55 bucks it wouldnt kill RA-T to include an actuating arm of their own (ideally along with a matching adjuster barrel) or even just offer them as an additional purchase option, after all if I wanted best reception for my product I dont want its performance left at mercy

RA tech hop unit fits, the issue is getting clearance for the hop actuating arm so that it doesnt permanently over-hop the general areas I removed material are highlighted above 1 the actuating nubs 2 the top surface between the spring pressure point and the pivot point 3 the bottom surface at front of the lever We're talking a tiny depth of material off of each, then rebuild the hop unit, compress the spring, turn the adjuster barrel fully to minimal hop setting, then repeat. You'll need to be particularly careful with the nubs to ensure you maintain the original p