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Everything posted by Yuri
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Bloodsword, how did you weather that AKS74U? Looks awesome, I might do something like that to my AKMS.
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The PBS-1 is by Building Fire. I thought it was going to be made of steel when I bought it but turns out it's aluminium. I don't mind though, this way the gun is a little less front heavy. I agree that internals should not be a main concern. The thing with airsoft guns is that if it's broken on the inside, that's generally pretty cheap and easy to fix. Bad externals are very hard to fix.
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From what I've seen, the one thing E&L has over LCT is the crisp selector markings. Other than that, they're pretty much the same. LCT might have nicer internals, they don't seem like that standard ACM fair. I did some stuff to my LCT 104. New suppressor and gas tube rail, stippled the foregrip. Sling is NVA:
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What kind of scope mount have you got on there Eizen? Looks cool.
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I suppose that makes sense. Yep, the thread of a real AK is supposed to be M24x1.5. I think it's sometimes called 22mm because that's about the value you would get if you used a pair of calipers to measure an internal thread. Thanks blobface, that does look like the thing. If it fits on a VFC then it should go on an LCT as well.
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You're right, VFC does seem to have made one and from what I gather Element made a clone of it as well. So there are potentially two different models that come with the big threads. I'll look around and see if I can find either one is stock anywhere. The AK in question is an LCT AK105. The 24 mm threads are a part of the front sight post, there are no smaller threads underneath. I don't understand why LCT decided to make it like that.
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Hey guys, do you know if any airsoft manufacturer makes a suppressor that fits the 24mm right hand threads you find on some AKs? Some of the PBS-1 suppressors I've seen pictures of have some kind of thread insert and it seems like the bigger thread could be 24mm but I can't be certain. I've got a G&G PBS-1 and it for sure does not fit.
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Got some stuff for my AK104: NVA sling and a Belomo BP-02 mount.
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My LCTs. The AKMS is four years old and has a soviet hand guard. The AK-105 (or 104 since I use the same mags in both) I got on Thursday. Tried it out today, needs a more powerful motor I think.
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Thanks! Yes, subtle was what I was going for and I was inspired by Far Cry. I originally picked up a can of OD krylon for this, but then I was in the local airsoft store and saw a can of dark brown. I had the idea that a tone that's fairly close to the base color might look cool. The steel parts (foregrip and top cover) came out especially nice I think.
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Worked up the nerve to paint my FAL: The masking took a loooong time.
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Thanks guys! My plan is to make a reflex suppressor out of an old KSC TMP suppressor, something like this: The TMP suppressor has the same blued steel finish and is about the same size. I'm waiting for the tap for the barrel threads to arrive before I try it.
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Fielded this thing for the first time yesterday: The rubber band was there to stop the carrying handle from making a rattle, but turns out it wouldn't anyway. The foregrip is real STG-58, the optic mount I made myself. I have a suppressor thing planned out for it and if I get that done I'll take a better picture.
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Thanks guys! After making the locking lever I discovered why the vertical lever that you'd find on an L1A1 for example is much more common on different FAL variants. The knob on the horizontal version gets a little in the way when you try to operate the fire selector. I decided to stick with the horizontal style lever since this way it covers up the part of the receiver that I milled and I don't have to paint anything.
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An update on my FAL. The STG-58 foregrip arrived and was nearly a drop-in fit like Judgeman said. I also did some work on the lower receiver. I was annoyed by King Arms' choice to cast every single detail on it: The body pins were alright, but the fake locking lever did it for me. I milled of everything I found offensive: Then I made my own bits of flair from steel and blued them: A vast improvement I'd say.
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Now you need a SPAS-12.
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That's good to know, thanks! It looked like a close enough fit that I decided to take a change on it. I should find out for sure by Wednesday.
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I was googling around and saw this: King Arms Fal. Decided to buy it since the price was right and it's a fairly rare gun these days, especially the full length version. It's going to be my DMR, I've already changed all the internals and put in a SP140 spring. There was actually a piece missing from the gun, some sort of a fake gas piston that according to the manual should be inside the gas tube. Obviously it's a totally superfluous part, but I'd still like to have it. The store that sold it to me have told me to contact KA directly, not really leaving me with a great impression
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I think LCT have realized that the shiny bakelite grip was flimsy and have stopped shipping it. Their guns now come with one that has a dull finish. I've got the shiny one on my AKMS and I've had to glue it back together about five times. You can make it a little sturdier by attaching something to the sides of the motor cage so that it makes contact with the inside of the grip and supports it. I used pieces of thick tape.
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So here's a quick shot of the old Kalash that I stripped and blued: It actually looks pretty nice even though I did a terrible job with the blueing. The bad finish suits it. I'll probably take better pictures that show the whole assembled gun on the weekend. EDIT: The top cover is actually from an ancient Marui.
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I'm currently in the process of cold bluing an old kalash with Birchwood Casey's superblue and aluminium black. Came out looking like a POS but that was kind of what I was going for anyway. I'll post pics when it's done, there are only a few little pieces left.
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If you didn't want the thing to fit on a real gun, why would you make the rails slightly larger instead of making the mounting hardware incompatible? That makes no sense.
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Is that paracord on the stock? It looks like hemp.
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It removes resistance from the movement of the slide. The shiny part rocks back and forth in a fashion that makes it turn out the way when the slide is returning to battery. With the stock hammer when the slide returns to battery, there is a slight hitch in the movement as it passes over the hammer. It's a fix to a nonexistent problem really. I mainly bought it out of curiosity. It might actually have a detrimental effect on the other parts since it's made of steel. The sear for example might wear down faster, but someone already makes a steel sear so I'll just get that then.
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I decided to get the weird hammer from Guns Modify for my TM glock: Worked a little rough at first but now after firing a few shots its pretty smooth. Also got a used Safariland holster off Ebay and now my PGC slide is holster polished: