Lt.Fenix

Kind of a late response, but anyway... Look, I tried a while back, If you can even find it anymore since this thread has been extremely inflated. And he hasn't risen above anything. if you look back all he has said was essentially "your views are contrary to mine, therefore you don't know what's going on," or "you're not contributing." He never made any attempt to present any arguments. He just can't handle logical arguments, period. His only response is to lie. Oh yes, and also to ridicule. If anything he has stooped lower and lower for every subsequent post. It's great that he's

Uhh... Yes it would work. You're worried about the screwhead being too thick? Ever heard of counterboring? Didn't think so. And as someone else has already mentioned, Loctite. Since you will definitely be lost in all of this complex language as usual, I will say that the rollpin idea will also work. But when you say the bolt method won't work, once again.... classic rottenotto.

Haha, classic rottenotto. Completely missing the point of the post and at the same time resorting to lies. Since when was stating facts being an *beep*? Can you objectively point out anything I said in that post to be wrong? Nope. So you resort to completely disregarding it since it doesn't fit into what you believe should fit into your own little world. The o-ring solution works and you just can't handle this fact. Instead you fill the forum with useless posts so that a very efficient and simple solution to a problem gets buried in your junk. Way to contribute. Also, one of yo

Not sure why you mentioned this again, as it has already been mentioned before. Refer to post #1255 date Dec 04 2008. Also I'm pretty sure the upper and lower receivers are made of aluminum, not pot metal. I believe Airsoft Buddy has stated this. You did. Twice. Amnesia? Selective memory? Either that or your word choices are just plain poor. And regards to the RS charging handle, I like IBICO's solution the best. The bottom portion of the charging handle has enough material that one could drill through and tap it and then insert a screw there. The

You know, I just realized that I wrote "conclusion" in place of "confusion." The wonderful effects of sleep deprivation.

Because I haven't taken it all apart, specifically the big brass chamber to measure it. Not sure how you jumped to the conclusion that I hadn't disassembled the gun just based on that. It's not like I pull out my caliper everytime I disassemble a gun. Anyway you still need to answer my question regarding what you call "the valve," and how that's different from what I call "the nozzle." And if there really is no difference, which I claim there isn't, then there's a whole lot of stuff I posted that you need to look at that you conveniently skipped earlier. Maybe to prevent any fur

I have taken it apart, and I really don't see much room for confusion, and also I'm pretty certain I know how the system works. Let's not get hasty and assume ignorance here... in that regard I might take issue. I might say that in fact you don't quite understand the system, but that would lead the discussion to degenerate into insults. First thing's first then. We can refer to the exploded diagram. What I'm describing as the nozzle is the entire assembly of parts from numbers 40 through 46, which is attached to the end of the thin rod #39. This is the assembly which takes in some of the

Well your wording made the impression that you were talking about all GBB's in general, including pistols and smg's. In that case I suppose I could agree, I've had several Escort guns, an SP A1, A2, and an Escort MP5, and have experienced that problem somewhat, and have also read others' experiences. Pistols and SMG's are generally unaffected by this. Your wording definitely made it seem like it was solely cooldown from continuous fire that caused it. I'm referring to firing at room temperature, not in cold weather. Be careful with your wording But

Yes, they are. I think the laser on the gas block just looks cool. I also don't like adding bulky things to the side rails, making the gun wider horizontally... to me everything should be mounted in such a way that the gun is still "thin," otherwise it just bothers me... also could be something to do with the overall symmetry of the gun. In terms of target acquisition time at short range, nothing probably beats a laser. Also, the red dot would be the primary aiming method, with the iron sights being secondary, but the laser sight is there as the ultimate backup sighting system.

I got a proxy bidder to get them for me from Yahoo Japan Auctions. If you go to Classicairsoft.net you should be able to find someone who's able to do it for you, the person that did it for me didn't accept Paypal, so I sent him a money order, and it took a while for the stuff to get to me. Maybe 3-4 weeks. That method only works for non-auction items though, which the barrels were. I don't believe they're rare custom made parts, they were a little less than 100 USD each, but that was when the dollar was stronger against the yen. A lot of custom Tanaka revolver metal frames are quite expe

I'm assuming you're talking about the Command Arms G27? I've never handled one before, but the UPG16 comes with 3 sets of interchangeable rubber front and backstraps. One of the front straps has 3 finger grooves, one has just a single bump like a standard A2 grip, and the one I'm using has none. The backstraps are simply different in size. Perhaps it's true with the WE; I don't know because I haven't tinkered with it, but most GBB's have rubber chambers in addition to the hop-up that can capture the bb so to speak, so in general too high of a hop-up is not necessary for most

My full metal Tanaka SAA's. Both of them are full metal, with Zeke metal frames and Japanese made stainless and blued steel barrels for the nickel civilian and the black artillery, respectively. The civilian has a set of Ajax fake ivory grips, while the artillery has a set of Ajax walnut grips with the corner cuts being done by me. The inspirations

Finally took some pics of my WE M4 the other day. -BT KAC Knights Armament Style RIS Rail Handguard -Command Arms UPG16 Pistol Grip -Custom Machined Steel Commando Length Barrel Extension -DPMS Aluminum 1-Rail Gas Block -Guarder XM177E2 Flash Hider -G&P Tactical Laser -G&P Systema Extended Stock QD Sling Mount -G&P X9 High Pressure Xenon Alunimium Hand Torch -King Arms Folding Battle Sight Set -King Arms QD Sling Swivel for 20mm Rail -King Arms Quick Release Flashlight Mount -KM M16 Sling -Magpul CTR Mil-spec Stock /w Rubber Pad -NC STAR Panorama Elec

Finally took some pics of my WE M4 the other day. -BT KAC Knights Armament Style RIS Rail Handguard -Command Arms UPG16 Pistol Grip -Custom Machined Steel Commando Length Barrel Extension -DPMS Aluminum 1-Rail Gas Block -Guarder XM177E2 Flash Hider -G&P Tactical Laser -G&P Systema Extended Stock QD Sling Mount -G&P X9 High Pressure Xenon Alunimium Hand Torch -King Arms Folding Battle Sight Set -King Arms QD Sling Swivel for 20mm Rail -King Arms Quick Release Flashlight Mount -KM M16 Sling -Magpul CTR Mil-spec Stock /w Rubber Pad -NC STAR Panorama Elec

I have serious doubts about your account. I can't see any possible way that you could twist that brass chamber while simply using the gun... there's no way the bolt could do that, because I think the bolt is in contact with the brass chamber all the time. And also for obvious reasons with the receiver the bolt can't move sideways and so it can't bend it that way to cause damage. Either the guy was lying or you're greatly exaggerating. The parts on the WE can be replaced. AFC and Airsoft Buddy both offer the sale of spare parts. You can buy any spare part from the exploded di

Isn't that a one-piece RIS that screws into where the barrel nut normally would? I don't see how you'd be worried about wobble with an RIS like that... The KAC styled ones are two-piece, which would go on the gun just like the standard forearms. From my understanding this is why people consider wobble to be a potential issue.

Great summation slu, but I have a couple of small corrections. Real steel charging handles actually work without any modifications. They just happen to grab a different part of the bolt than the stock one due to the very slightly different shape at the front end. They still function as they should. The hole inside of the magwell is not caused by wear. They will just come like that. Saying that the hole developes implies that somehow the magazine rubbing against the wall creates the hole. This is inaccurate. The hole is inherent from the design and most likely happens whe

Are you sure it wasn't just the paint that was worn? Because the bolt carrier is supposedly made of steel. I doubt a pot metal bolt catch would be able to cause any appreciable damage to that part. Most likely any bolt lock problem is due to the pot metal bolt catch. which AB will send you a steel one for the shipping price if you bought your gun from him. Not sure whether or not he would send you one for the shipping price if you bought your gun from someone else.

I'm more interested in the steel bolt stop... it'd be kickass if WE is sending those out now.

Actually, I've come across a relatively simple and temporary fix for this. It's not a permanent mechanical fix, but a quick way to get the pin to retract without doing it manually by hand which could be done during a skirmish or something. After you insert the mag and pull the charging handle, you can simply wiggle the magazine back and forth while it's in the gun to get the pin unstuck. If you hear closely enough you can actually sometimes hear the pin click back into place rather faintly. It appears as if the slight upward pressure from the magazine valve creates small but enough f

I don't think that's such a good idea, because I'm pretty sure that's where the bolt catch contacts the bolt to stop it...

I'm not sure what your obsession is with the hole in the magwell, because it's not quite a cosmetic problem because you can't even see it unless you disassemble the gun and then purposefully look through the magwell. And also it doesn't affect the operation of the gun at all, so it's not a functional problem either. And I'm not sure why trophy stores keep getting mentioned in this... but any machineshop of reasonable size will be able to engrave stuff for you too. I know for a fact most machine shops won't mind working on fake firearm parts, because I've had countless airsoft parts worked

Mine lets the pin go shortly after the hammer is cocked, when the bolt is about half way back. It does it reliably even when I pull the bolt back slowly. Perhaps there's some variation in the manufacturing of the disconnectors and/or firing pins? Maybe you should try dremeling some material away then. I wouldn't do it too much though. Something else could be causing it.. you never know. [edit] Also, it could be that the disconnector is too long in the direction towards the firing pin assembly wall, and causing a lot of friction... too many things to think about :-p

I really don't think JB weld would hold... and yes they do call it JB Weld for a reason... to make you buy it :-p. Its bond strength would pale in comparison to actually welding something on there. That's kind of odd, because from my understanding the disconnector is supposed to release the firing pin during the backstroke of the bolt: when the hammer is being cocked. This is what mine does. Perhaps lube the interface between the disconnector and the firing pin assembly? I think you could just remove some material from just the firing pin, but that other guy did both to kee

I actually got my RS charging handle today, and from the weight of the thing I think it's also made of aluminum. A quick search in google also reveals that the RS one is made of aluminum. I was thinking, and I think there might be a problem with making the charging handle out of steel, but perhaps it's minor. But if you make the charging handle out of steel, it will have a tendency to wear out the receiver at the point of impact when you let go of it after charging the bolt, since the upper receiver is made of aluminum and a steel charging handle would be about three times as massive comp