DanHS

That looks like what you need, should be 24mm but maybe it's a typo. LCT probably wanted to replicate the real thing as realistically as possible, so they only put the 24mm threads on the front sight, pinned over a smooth barrel, just like the real thing.

I love the STALKER AKs! I've already posted my STALKER AKSU a couple times, I have a project AKS74 that I'm considering STALKERizing. I need to work on getting a couple good STALKER loadouts together though.

Actually I have a short AK locap, but it doesn't really feed. I like the fullsize mag anyway, I'd rather the gun not look like it's trying to be a Dragunov, now it looks more like PSL furniture installed on a modified AK.

Lexan shield is the way to go, a small piece of 3mm thick Lexan is usually easy to find at a hardware store and doesn't cost much, you can use a heavy scissor to cut it, and a file to finish it round. I usually trace the size circle I need, then cut it out with a coping saw, and use a grinding wheel to grind it down to my traced circle. If I need a different shape the same procedure works fine. A Dremel works well also. I also picked up another AK that needed a home. Someone got a hold of one of those SVD conversion kits, but they installed it on a CM.036, instead of on a Marui style under

CYMA sells it separately, but you might have to search around some HK sites to find it. It does work very well though, I have a T1 replica on my AIMS AK, having the optic right above my hand makes putting the dot on target really fast and easy.

I just got a set of the Cyma clear mags, haven't had a chance to use them yet but so far they fit nicely in my AIMS You can see the bbs just well enough to see how low you are, but the plastic is dark enough with a matte finish, that the bbs aren't so clearly visible from a couple feet away. Here there are about 25 .4g bbs in the mag, I usually load 50 per mag. I hope the new grey colored .4g bbs aren't difficult to see in these mags.

I'm not usually a fan of painted AK's, but that looks really cool, I like the two-tone tan and black, very unique. What helical gears did you use? I've put some of the less expensive helical gears in guns and they shot fine but sounded weird, and over time smoothed out. Seems that the less expensive gears like SHS, Super Shooter, etc, are cut well enough to work fine, but need some break in time for the teeth to wear a bit and smooth out. My RPK sounded kinda bad when I first built it, but now the gearbox sounds pretty smooth, I used $25 Super Shooter helical torque up gears.

Time for more frankenAK. I had this CM.035 that fell down and cracked in half, it already had a few things crack on it so I think it was a bad batch of extra brittle potmetal. In that case it should have just become a wallhanger, or scrap metal, however... I decided to try fixing it: Some 1/16" aluminum and JB weld seem to be plenty strong, time will tell. I had cannibalized some parts already, so instead it got the front end from a CM.028, and the gearbox from a DBoys AK74. I quite like the way it came out, now I wish I had put more care into filling in the unused stock cat

My friend has a Kobra on his Saiga AK, I'll have to have a look through it. Here are the two newest additions to my family. Nothing special, just a DBoys AKS74 that I picked up for $30, and a echo1 rebranded CM.048 that I got for $60: DBoys needs a proper dummy bolt and muzzle brake, Cyma needs rear sight and muzzle brake as well. They're both future projects for when I get around to them, they'll get the usual internal upgrades with 120 springs and tightbores, hopup, etc. The DBoys will be a proper Russian military AKS74, and the Cyma will get sanded and repainted to get rid of the

Is RSOV the only supplier of those clear ACM mags? I haven't seen them before, I've really wanted some clear mags but a full set of Beta Project mags gets expensive, the shipping on those would be nearly as expensive though.

Newest member of the family: Nothing special, just a regular DBoys. Someone offered it to me for $30 because the gearbox was messed up, the muzzle brake was gone, and the charging handle was broken off. I put an AKSU brake on because I don't have a '74 brake, came up with a new bolt, and went over the gearbox and hopup fixing or replacing whatever I didn't like, then rewired it. Not sure what I want to do with it, I have some spare CYMA gearboxes and I could build one up for it, do a little repainting, and get the correct brake, I guess I do need a proper modern Russian rifle.

I did a quick Google search for the SRC handguard, I found one European distributor that seems to have it: http://www.safarasoftair.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2844 I also found a place in California that has it in imitation wood, as well as black plastic: http://www.airsoftlot.com/imitation-src-wood-akbeta-hand-guard-set-for-ak-airsoft-aeg-p-513.html#.UMLbn6V8Png

If you can track down the SRC one, I would recommend that since it's drop-in and AKMSU style, otherwise one of the wood beta sets, or take a wooden handguard for a Marui and cut down and re-profile it to match the Beta handguard.

Betas are fun little guns. JG actually makes one that way with the underfolder stock. I combined my JG Spetz with a CM.035, and used an SRC 'AKMSU' style lower handguard, sheetmetal upper handguard, and AKM muzzle break. (here it's pictured with the RPK 74 flash hider though) Found a newer pic and cropped it out, I think I call it the BetAKSU

Update of my Mujaheddin impression. I think this is better. I wore the shalwar kameez pants in these and wore an old BDU jacket, if I'm going with the late 80's Mujaheddin then some US gear may be acceptable. I did find some PLA shoes that might be suitable, not sure if I'd actually wear them in-game, but if they were good enough for the PLA, they might be ok. I never did fakelite the mags, I fear the finish will eventually wear off the mags because they scrape together a lot. If I ever have the fortune to come across some Bakelite mags with worn or broken feed lips, I'll turn them into airsof

Ok, Fakelite grips done! I wish there wasn't such a short time limit to edit posts, I would have just added these to my earlier post. Anyways, here's the finished product on two of my lower-end guns. And my technique: For the base I used Valspar satin finish "La Fonda Copper" spray paint, I chose it because it produces a nice thin and smooth finish, and the color looks a bit like Bakelite already. Then I did the usual Miniwax Red Mahogany using the cheap horsehair brush, like I did earlier with the mags. Then after letting it dry a few days, I sealed it with the Miniwax 2

I never ordered from this place, but they have the handguards, I don't see the stock though. I have a set of plum Bulgarian furniture I'm saving for a possible VFC in the future, I got it with a demilled kit gun here in the US, I'm not sure if US retailers can export furniture or not, there are a lot of restrictions on exporting gun components. http://soviet-military.com/product/soviet-russian-army-ak-set-handguardsgrip-polymer-sm-28-158

Thought I'd share these as I'm waiting for the stain to dry before sealing them: Without flash With flash Details to follow once they're done and installed.

Nice, how do you like the Bizon, and which brand suppressor did you use? I'm thinking of getting one and going Polarstar when the V3 engines come out, with a suppressor they're so quiet, and I'll have something quite different from all the Polarstar powered AR's on the field.

I completed my new AKSU, got the DBoys Bulgarian muzzle, and a CYMA AK74M stock. I also reshimmed the gears, put in a Guarder M120 spring, JG enhanced steel toothed piston with an Element bearing pom piston head, a 5KU aluminum cylinder, and rewired with 16ga wire and a basic mosfet. I installed a Madbull tightbore with a Systema bucking and H-nub, and replaced the plastic L-shaped hopup spacer thingy with a spring. It now shoots 440fps with the hopup adjusted for .4's (shoots 280fps with the .4's), seems to be pretty accurate so far. Here it is pictured with my frankenstein (STALKER inspired)

I think the sanding may not even be necessary, just getting the strokes in, then enhancing them with the dark and light splotches and swirls/smudges. The only reason I sanded these mags, was because they had textured finish, which I wanted to reduce, and the used one had a lot of black paint that was difficult to strip off. If I try to Fakelite my MAG RPK mags, I won't sand them. I might use a lighter color stain too, since they are already brown, and I don't want to paint them pumpkin orange first. I really need to examine real Bakelite mags to better see how the resin flowed in the mold. All

I love my CM050A, you should disable the blowback though; when I got mine used from a friend, the little rod that rides the piston to pull the bolt back, had been grinding against the side of the gearbox and had worn a nice gouge into the side of the cylinder. All I did externally on mine, was toss the plastic handguard for a real Romanian one, paracord wrap the stock, and put on an LCT Bakelite grip. Internally I just rewired with a mosfet, reshimmed, put in a new cylinder, piston and piston head, Guarder M130, and tightbore with Systema bucking and an H-nub. I love the way the gun handles, i

True, but that might not stop CYMA from making it in plum anyway, of course they might also go and use black furniture on the .045B, will have to wait and see. The KVar stock is way too expensive for me, so I'll just live with a black plastic CYMA stock if I have to, mismatching just makes it look more authentic anyway.

A couple quick pics: My first attempt at Fakelite. Used a bright orange CYMA RPK hicap. I sanded it with a pattern I wanted to follow, then brushed on the Red Mahogany Minwax stain with a cheap 1.5" horsehair brush. As it started drying a bit, I dipped the very tip of the brush in the stain and carefully added a bit here and there, using the strokes to spread the stain slightly thicker or thinner in spots and adding some splotches. I let it dry for a few days, then brushed on Minwax stain+seal polyurethane using a foam brush. It doesn't look that much like the Russian Bakelite mags I've se

On the topic of red dots, I personally find that locating the red dot right above my forward grip suits me well, having it located right above my hand helps me acquire the proper line of sight through the optic quickly when bringing the gun up to my shoulder, and it helps me acquire my target faster. The little Aimpoint Micro replica and aluminum UltimAK replica weigh very little, so there is no significant weight added up front. For me, this gun handles and shoots great this way.