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DanHS

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Posts posted by DanHS

  1. That looks like what you need, should be 24mm but maybe it's a typo. LCT probably wanted to replicate the real thing as realistically as possible, so they only put the 24mm threads on the front sight, pinned over a smooth barrel, just like the real thing.

  2. Lexan shield is the way to go, a small piece of 3mm thick Lexan is usually easy to find at a hardware store and doesn't cost much, you can use a heavy scissor to cut it, and a file to finish it round. I usually trace the size circle I need, then cut it out with a coping saw, and use a grinding wheel to grind it down to my traced circle. If I need a different shape the same procedure works fine. A Dremel works well also.

     

    I also picked up another AK that needed a home. Someone got a hold of one of those SVD conversion kits, but they installed it on a CM.036, instead of on a Marui style underfolder. They hacked the back of the CM.036, drilled a hole in the stock, and put the gas block and front sight from an old Marui or CM.028 on it, and seemed to have used whatever screws were handy. Looks like it went through a few hands after that, then I got it for $60. Should have taken a before picture, the grip and front end were all wrapped in tape, paint was scratched, it looked like a piece of junk. I took it all apart, cleaned it up, repainted the scratched stuff, put in a different tightbore, tuned up and rewired the gearbox, then put it back together with the correct screws and everything shimmed tight. I swapped the SVD style muzzle for the M16 one to reduce the length a bit, and try to make it look less like a fake SVD. The stock had delaminated around the grip so I glued and clamped it, then I did some chiseling and Dremel work to get it to fit a little better. Since it was meant for the underfolder, it'll never fit a CM.036 correctly, but it fits good enough. I gave the stock a coat of Minewax 1-step stain and polyurethane, and now it looks much better. Not bad for $60, a little bit of my time, some spare parts and some Minewax. It shoots about 420 with .2g, but isn't happy with anything under .36g, which is fine. Shoots pretty accurate for what it is, the iron sights are actually just about spot on!

    airsoftaksvdkit.jpg

  3. I just got a set of the Cyma clear mags, haven't had a chance to use them yet but so far they fit nicely in my AIMS

     

    IMG_0437-1.jpg

     

    You can see the bbs just well enough to see how low you are, but the plastic is dark enough with a matte finish, that the bbs aren't so clearly visible from a couple feet away. Here there are about 25 .4g bbs in the mag, I usually load 50 per mag. I hope the new grey colored .4g bbs aren't difficult to see in these mags.

     

    IMG_0442-1.jpg

  4. I'm not usually a fan of painted AK's, but that looks really cool, I like the two-tone tan and black, very unique.

     

    What helical gears did you use? I've put some of the less expensive helical gears in guns and they shot fine but sounded weird, and over time smoothed out. Seems that the less expensive gears like SHS, Super Shooter, etc, are cut well enough to work fine, but need some break in time for the teeth to wear a bit and smooth out. My RPK sounded kinda bad when I first built it, but now the gearbox sounds pretty smooth, I used $25 Super Shooter helical torque up gears.

  5. Time for more frankenAK. I had this CM.035 that fell down and cracked in half, it already had a few things crack on it so I think it was a bad batch of extra brittle potmetal. In that case it should have just become a wallhanger, or scrap metal, however...

     

    I decided to try fixing it:

    2013-07-16203543.jpg

     

    Some 1/16" aluminum and JB weld seem to be plenty strong, time will tell. I had cannibalized some parts already, so instead it got the front end from a CM.028, and the gearbox from a DBoys AK74.

     

    2013-07-24233321.jpg

     

    I quite like the way it came out, now I wish I had put more care into filling in the unused stock catch holes (the hinge cracked so the stock is fixed with screws and JB weld) and the indent that I filled in to try and build up some strength where it cracked. Looks good enough for a frankenAK though. Now I just need a top cover and a selector lever with that little key that engages the lever on the gearbox, anybody have those bits lying around?

  6. My friend has a Kobra on his Saiga AK, I'll have to have a look through it.

     

    Here are the two newest additions to my family. Nothing special, just a DBoys AKS74 that I picked up for $30, and a echo1 rebranded CM.048 that I got for $60:

    2013-07-06010639.jpg

     

    DBoys needs a proper dummy bolt and muzzle brake, Cyma needs rear sight and muzzle brake as well. They're both future projects for when I get around to them, they'll get the usual internal upgrades with 120 springs and tightbores, hopup, etc. The DBoys will be a proper Russian military AKS74, and the Cyma will get sanded and repainted to get rid of the stupid trademarks, and then I'll probably throw a mix of Eastern Bloc furniture on it; Romy stock I've got lying around, fakelite the pistol grip, maybe Bakelite handguards?

  7. Newest member of the family:

    IMG_0285.jpg

     

    Nothing special, just a regular DBoys. Someone offered it to me for $30 because the gearbox was messed up, the muzzle brake was gone, and the charging handle was broken off. I put an AKSU brake on because I don't have a '74 brake, came up with a new bolt, and went over the gearbox and hopup fixing or replacing whatever I didn't like, then rewired it. Not sure what I want to do with it, I have some spare CYMA gearboxes and I could build one up for it, do a little repainting, and get the correct brake, I guess I do need a proper modern Russian rifle.

  8. Betas are fun little guns. JG actually makes one that way with the underfolder stock. I combined my JG Spetz with a CM.035, and used an SRC 'AKMSU' style lower handguard, sheetmetal upper handguard, and AKM muzzle break. (here it's pictured with the RPK 74 flash hider though)

     

    IMG_0445.jpg

    betaksu.jpgFound a newer pic and cropped it out, I think I call it the BetAKSU

    • Like 2
  9. Update of my Mujaheddin impression. I think this is better. I wore the shalwar kameez pants in these and wore an old BDU jacket, if I'm going with the late 80's Mujaheddin then some US gear may be acceptable. I did find some PLA shoes that might be suitable, not sure if I'd actually wear them in-game, but if they were good enough for the PLA, they might be ok. I never did fakelite the mags, I fear the finish will eventually wear off the mags because they scrape together a lot. If I ever have the fortune to come across some Bakelite mags with worn or broken feed lips, I'll turn them into airsoft mags.

     

    IMG_0159edit-1.jpg?t=1353181649

     

    IMG_0170edit2.jpg?t=1353181515

     

    IMG_0177edit.jpg?t=1353181322

  10. Ok, Fakelite grips done! I wish there wasn't such a short time limit to edit posts, I would have just added these to my earlier post. Anyways, here's the finished product on two of my lower-end guns.

     

    IMG_0133.jpg

    IMG_0137.jpg

     

    IMG_0127.jpg

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    And my technique: For the base I used Valspar satin finish "La Fonda Copper" spray paint, I chose it because it produces a nice thin and smooth finish, and the color looks a bit like Bakelite already. Then I did the usual Miniwax Red Mahogany using the cheap horsehair brush, like I did earlier with the mags. Then after letting it dry a few days, I sealed it with the Miniwax 2in1 Polyurethane using a foam brush to carefully brush on a thin, even coat. I did try applying the polyurethane too perfectly on one of the grips, and you can see a light spot on part of the grip on the shorty AK74, where I brushed too many times and rubbed off some of the stain. I think the stain was a bit too thin too, as they came out slightly too light (they look about right for Bakelite mags, but other real Bakelite items I have are darker), and I neglected to paint and stain inside the hole for the grip screw, and by the trigger guard. I also feel they may be a bit too shiny, I may try some semigloss or satin polyurethane. I will try to do it a bit darker next time, and make a perfect Fakelite grip for my RPK!

    • Like 3
  11. Nice discodante thats what i'm thinking of doing with my VFC AKS74N, when i can find some nice RS plum grips for a decent price.

     

    I never ordered from this place, but they have the handguards, I don't see the stock though. I have a set of plum Bulgarian furniture I'm saving for a possible VFC in the future, I got it with a demilled kit gun here in the US, I'm not sure if US retailers can export furniture or not, there are a lot of restrictions on exporting gun components.

     

    http://soviet-military.com/product/soviet-russian-army-ak-set-handguardsgrip-polymer-sm-28-158

  12. Nice, how do you like the Bizon, and which brand suppressor did you use? I'm thinking of getting one and going Polarstar when the V3 engines come out, with a suppressor they're so quiet, and I'll have something quite different from all the Polarstar powered AR's on the field.

    • Like 1
  13. I completed my new AKSU, got the DBoys Bulgarian muzzle, and a CYMA AK74M stock. I also reshimmed the gears, put in a Guarder M120 spring, JG enhanced steel toothed piston with an Element bearing pom piston head, a 5KU aluminum cylinder, and rewired with 16ga wire and a basic mosfet. I installed a Madbull tightbore with a Systema bucking and H-nub, and replaced the plastic L-shaped hopup spacer thingy with a spring. It now shoots 440fps with the hopup adjusted for .4's (shoots 280fps with the .4's), seems to be pretty accurate so far. Here it is pictured with my frankenstein (STALKER inspired) AKSU:

     

    IMG_0096.jpg

  14. I think the sanding may not even be necessary, just getting the strokes in, then enhancing them with the dark and light splotches and swirls/smudges. The only reason I sanded these mags, was because they had textured finish, which I wanted to reduce, and the used one had a lot of black paint that was difficult to strip off. If I try to Fakelite my MAG RPK mags, I won't sand them. I might use a lighter color stain too, since they are already brown, and I don't want to paint them pumpkin orange first. I really need to examine real Bakelite mags to better see how the resin flowed in the mold. All I have are steel mags, and I regret not buying any 5.45 Bakelite mags a few years ago when they were pretty inexpensive.

  15. I love my CM050A, you should disable the blowback though; when I got mine used from a friend, the little rod that rides the piston to pull the bolt back, had been grinding against the side of the gearbox and had worn a nice gouge into the side of the cylinder. All I did externally on mine, was toss the plastic handguard for a real Romanian one, paracord wrap the stock, and put on an LCT Bakelite grip. Internally I just rewired with a mosfet, reshimmed, put in a new cylinder, piston and piston head, Guarder M130, and tightbore with Systema bucking and an H-nub. I love the way the gun handles, it just feels right.

     

    And to add some more pictures:

    My second attempt at Fakelite came out rather dark, maybe too much woodstain, but I still like it. I also tried to fix the poor job I did at the top of the RPK hicap. I think I may try to get CYMA midcaps to swap shells with, so I can make these into midcaps.

     

    With camera flash

    IMG_0086.jpg

     

    In natural sunlight

    IMG_0087.jpg

     

    And the technique I used; sand mag with a pattern to simulate strokes and flow of resin. I sanded this mag heavily because I got it used and it had been partly painted black. Then paint strokes with a cheap horsehair brush. Finally, after the stain has begun to dry, dip the very tip of the brush in stain and add splotches, gently brushing to create light and dark areas and making the Bakelite splotchy/swirly look. Give the stain at least three days to dry, then seal with your choice of sealant. I brushed on Minwax 2in1 gloss polyurethane with a foam brush. Not perfect, but I think it still looks nice.

    IMG_0060.jpg

    IMG_0063.jpg

    IMG_0064.jpg

    • Like 1
  16. True, but that might not stop CYMA from making it in plum anyway, of course they might also go and use black furniture on the .045B, will have to wait and see. The KVar stock is way too expensive for me, so I'll just live with a black plastic CYMA stock if I have to, mismatching just makes it look more authentic anyway.

  17. A couple quick pics:

     

    My first attempt at Fakelite. Used a bright orange CYMA RPK hicap. I sanded it with a pattern I wanted to follow, then brushed on the Red Mahogany Minwax stain with a cheap 1.5" horsehair brush. As it started drying a bit, I dipped the very tip of the brush in the stain and carefully added a bit here and there, using the strokes to spread the stain slightly thicker or thinner in spots and adding some splotches. I let it dry for a few days, then brushed on Minwax stain+seal polyurethane using a foam brush. It doesn't look that much like the Russian Bakelite mags I've seen, but it has a definite Bakelite look. I only wish I knew it would have come out so cool, I'd have taken the mag apart first and done a better job at the top of the mag. I'm doing another orange hicap that came with a used CM.035, it should come out a bit better. Then I'm going to grab some Krylon Fusion pumpkin orange, and try a Fakelite grip.

    IMG_0073.jpg

     

    And the newest member of the family, the latest CYMA CM.045, I got it on sale from AirsoftGI, combined with a coupon code and free shipping, couldn't pass it up. When I ordered it, I thought to myself "I wish it came with a plum color polymer folding stock instead". Once I open it and pick up the manual, I see the CM.045B model has the polymer folding stock, but since the picture is black and white, and there's nothing anywhere online about it, there's no telling if it'll be plum or black until the model starts showing up on shelves. I'm going to get the polymer folding stock in plum if it does come out, and in black if it doesn't, and put on a KFH style flash hider, and have an SLR106UR style replica. The picture doesn't really show it, since it's not in the sunlight, but the plastic is that brownish plum color that CYMA is using now.

    IMG_0076.jpg

  18. On the topic of red dots, I personally find that locating the red dot right above my forward grip suits me well, having it located right above my hand helps me acquire the proper line of sight through the optic quickly when bringing the gun up to my shoulder, and it helps me acquire my target faster.

     

    IMG_0439.jpg

     

    The little Aimpoint Micro replica and aluminum UltimAK replica weigh very little, so there is no significant weight added up front. For me, this gun handles and shoots great this way.

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