Colin_The+Ferret
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Posts posted by Colin_The+Ferret
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Its beautiful, but you need to bin the KSC grips. The awful logo is the one thing I hate about my KSC.
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Just watch, someone will try and Magpul it
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You need to polish the cheekpiece shiny and put some cam cream stains on it to match the rest of the weathering. Butpads and pistol grips get very shiny too
Safety catch doesnt weather, its plastic.
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I took some coils off the return spring to soften the impact.
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Why am I finding it so hard to get this gun back together properly? There is literally no room for wires.
Be very carefull, I managed to strip the insulation re-assembling.
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I have a CA DSA 58: AKA "the gun that wouldn't skirmish"...
Out of the box the cocking handle broke. Took a well known retailer a little north of the M25 two months to get the parts and fix it.
Had hop problems from day one. Eventualy oppened it up and found a casting flaw inside the unit that needed dremeling out. Put in a madbull blue rubber and performance became adequate. After a few skirmishes (and out of warranty) the back of this piston sheared off - it has been sugested since that this may be due to silicone contamination of the madbull ruber? Anyway, replaced the piston. Two skimishes later there is a horrible screeching noise, so I oppened the gearbox:
The reinforced piston had striped its teeth - looked like the gearbox was full of orange peel. The spur gear had also lost a tooth
Considering the gun jinxed I stuck it on the back of the cupboard and went on to my ever reliable JG G36C.
I finaly decide to bite he bullet and fix the beast.
Replaced the hop with a marui rubber and a H nub.
Puy in an SCS full metal tooth piston - came with first tooth removed.
Put in a Guarder polycarbonate bearing piston head.
Finaly put in a modify smooth gear set ( high torque).
So far so good.
Also had to replace and araldite the inner screw on he cocking handle. For good measure I trimed back the spring so I can push the fake bolt back with my finger to alter the hop.
Still if it won't shoot it looks pretty
just wish I could replace the nasty M16 flash hider with a proper FAL one. -
RHS at the rear. Connects the safety to the sear. Disconnector is on the left (visible in top photo).
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OK, via the photobucket app and a handy wifi hotspot...
Happy?
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If you know a way to upload straight from my IPhone you can have them right now. If not, a little patience please.
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Sorry, the back
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The part was too upright at the front and seemed to have too sharp a radius. By trial and error I smoothed it off. Didn't want to mess up the safety completely
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I had the issue of not returning to battery with the safety on. Took the slide off and had a look. Re-contoured the interlock lever with a file and gave it a polish with wet and dry. Works fine now and nothing broken yet.
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A curious thing, considering the energy and cross section are constant. The only variable would be the amount of hop, probably scrubbs off some of the energy having to put more spin on a heavier BB. Someone with the time and the patience could do some measurements on a chrono with the various weights hop on and hop off.
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by feel, i guess you mean that the person you hit can't shrug it off because they are too busy swearing?
Some people have the unfortunate habit of not calling hit from single shots (" must be a ricochet") If the BB has a bit of "Thwack" to it, they know its from a single shot weapon and not a "lost" shot from a burst that missed. I would never intentional inflict pain on an honest player.
I have in the past taken a burst of .43s from a full auto WA Prokiller...
Back on topic, its a great pistol, buy one now!
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.4? Whoa...do you have any idea of the FPS?
If it's not unbearably slow, I'll pick up a bag and try them out.
Also, I polished my barrel to the point where it'll blind anyone looking...xD I think it looks great, except it caused there to be much more wobble from the barrel to the slide. Has anyone come up with a way to reduce the wobble? I tried shunning the little nub on the bottom of the barrel, but couldn't get anything to stay. Any ideas?
Need to chrono.
I used to use Digicon.43s back in the day. .4s do fly slower, but they are more accurate, cut through foliage and have a little more "feel " when they hit.
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I would say comparable. I would have to run them side by side to realy tell. My 1911 isn't going to reamain stock though, managed to get a prime bodykit for £20
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Used mine in the field first time yesterday thanks to the heat wave
Bucking is still stock, but the hop arm is tweaked - I can over hop .4s.
I did the "Mag in warm water" treatment as I was suffering gas loss. I couldn't hear any hissing, but over 24 hours the mag would empty.
I also striped the blowback unit and used a touch of Systema piston grease to improve the seal. Blowback is crisper and range is better.
End result is it is performing as well as my Marui 1911 (stock) but I can get two BB fills from one of gas
. Easily getting AEG range with a .4 and lethaly accurate.After strugling with a holster, I got the Guarder Tornado multi fit and it works fine.
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How do they size up? Did you buy "normal" size or a size bigger?
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Deploying the bipod seems somewhat fiddly initially and I have been told (albeit by a 14 year old) that it is not identical to the real steel. It is necessary to pull back a small lever under the front barrel whilst simultaneously squeezing the legs together and pulling them out. The whole thing is reminiscent of trying to get a Vulcan Nerve Pinch right. I'm lead to believe that the real L86 just requires you to squeeze the legs together.
No, the lever is there on the real thing too, and it is a pain. If you look between the 1st and 2nd "full" holes from the handguard you can see it sticking down.
Note this is a training weapon, and therefore a bit battered.
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The blue screw only goes in the top for eye safety during training. In the field it goes in a storage hole in the side.
Is the laser adjustable for widage and elevation?
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Update report: Scope is, i'm afraid to say almost completely unusable in a woodland setting. Due to the fact that the lateral control is useless, i have been unable to zero the scope at all. Basically the lateral setting is done by moving two bolt over a threaded bar at the front, this allows the scope to be moved across also. However after the last game i moved it all the way to the right so that the bolt had just two complete threads on the main bar. Even with this adjustment the rounds still appear only at the very edge of the right side of the scope when looking through it.
Final conclusion: Unusable as an actual shooting scope, only worth the money if you want to look gucci. If i had the choice i'd probably wait for STAR to re-release their SUSAT with "improved optics".
Looks like you are going to have to put shims between the scope and the rail to get it coarse tuned. I had to do that with my G&P ACOG.
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I see from his site that he does the Sykes mask with mesh fitted. Interesting...
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Interesting.
Face protection, and its better looking than my real face
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Yup, sorted now.
Beretta Picture Thread
in Weapons
Posted
...and I have to ask, is that a musical instrument it's sitting on?