infected
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Posts posted by infected
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I don't see how PEQ's get in the way. Mount them on the right side if you're a righty, left if you're a lefty, and then when you sling your gun on a one point (as it should be), the PEQ is away from your gear and not snagging anything or getting in the way. Having a big stick hanging out of your gun gets in the way. Profile of the PEQ 15, 1.5" or so. Profile of that big foregrip, 5" or so. Heck, mount the PEQ up top and with the right optic and mount it's still out of the way.
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I didn't want a bulky peq box on the side so i decided to fit a battery grip.
And that foregrip isn't bulky???
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I have noticed something about this belt over time. I"ve put on a bit of weight, and if you've got a bit of belly, this belt buckle can dig into you a bit if you're sitting for a long period of time. Got to work out more I guess.
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If it's TM compatible it'll work in your gearbox, as long as it's v2 TM compatible. So in short, yes the Guarder piston WILL work.
I would replace the piston and piston head as soon as you make sure your gun is working. The review has info in it on how to fix box mag issues. Make sure you have a problem before you start messing with it though.
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Again, I'd drop the gears and not worry about replacing them till your stock ones break. that'll save you a bit of money.
Also, don't worry about the "spring set". I've never had one of those springs fail on me. Unless you lose one, you'll probably not need to replace one for a long time to come.
Everything else looks fine.
Just a note. Anything that is V2 (version2) compatible will work in your gearbox.
Also, read up on fixing box mag issues. somone a few posts up mentioned this. the box mags are good, but hit and miss.
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First of all... what's your goal with this thing? If all you want is reliablity, but to stick with the stock fps and rate of fire, then do the following:
Guarder Econo Piston (the other piston has more metal teeth)
Re-shim the gears (Guarder shims are fine). If you dont' know what shimming is, search on the forums for it
The prometheus piston is fine, but probably expensive. There are cheaper ones out there. Stay clear of the Guarder piston head it fails easily.
Change the piston head to a polycarb (not a guarder though)
Put on a bearing spring guide.
Done.
If you want to increase the rate of fire, change the motor to a G&P m120 and put in a 9.6v battery, or an 11.1v lipo if you want to get crazy and a MOSFET. (in addition to the above stuff).
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If you're talking about the "Systema" Area 1000 Piston DON'T DO IT. I've broken every one I've installed. I would go with the Guarder Full Tooth Econo. Piston. Much Much better quality.
In fact, avoid all Area 1000 items. Sure it's "made by systema", but it's no where near the quality.
The systema gear set is nice, and will work find, but again... wait till you trash your stock ones. Also, look for the guarder gearset. it'll be a few bucks cheaper, and unless you're looking to run a high fps spring, you should be fine with them. I've used them in builds without problems.
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Guarder gears should suffice if you're replacing the stock gearing. Honestly.. as far as gears go... I suggest riding them till they break. The stock piston and piston head should be replaced. A Guarder piston should work just fine (v2), and most polycarb piston heads should be fine (stay away from element & guarder piston heads though). Either a bearing polycarb or a solid metal spring guide should do you fine. Replace the stock switch though. Several people throughout this thread have had theirs fail (like me), where they become stuck in the "on" position.
The foregrip won't work unless you change out the lower part of the front end with an RIS system meant for the m249.
Remember, you should reshim it when you get it, the factory shimming isn't great. Read back through the thread near the first 25% of it, and you'll see where we talk about replacement bearings. That'll make a big difference too. Replace the piston head and pistion, and switch and you'll have a pretty reliable gun.
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AVOID ELEMENT GEARS. I've trashed 2 sets of element gears with less than 200 rounds through each one.
Also AVOID METAL PISTON HEADS. All that does it beat in the front of your gearbox. The piston head o-ring is what's doing the work to seal your cylinder, so you're better off with a piston head breaking than your piston or gears stripping or your gearbox cracking. Yeah, the m249 gearbox is not prone to cracking, but this is a good practice anyway in all builds.
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Hello all,
first, i'll say sorry if my questions have already been answered but right now i don't have much time.
I'm a beginner to airsoft and i'd really like to buy this M249, but i can't "modify" it, change its parts or fix it's internal problems (maybe with my father's help i could do something, but i'm uncertain)
I'll be dead honest here. If you don't think you can fix the internals, I would start off with a more reliable gun than this one. I love clone guns, and have owned several, but you have to be prepared to do some work in them at some point. The M249 is going to need work sooner rather than later given the garbage trigger switch, and poor air seals. Now the M249 is the easiest of all gearboxes to work on, but if you're not comfortable with that... stick with something like a CA (pro-line series not sportline) that has stronger stock internals, and a bit better quality control. You could also just pay an Airsoft-smith to work on your gun for you.
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It's no more noisier than most motorized box mags.
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Great review infected, but can you please compare the ROF difference between ceramic and steel bearings, as well as the performance of steel bushings? I think that would be an interesting way to compare it.
I've thought about the same thing. Unfortunately, I don't have a gearbox with which to just play around with at the moment. I really need to pick up a dboys gearbox from some HK retailer just to monkey around with. I'm really holding back on airsoft purchases as I'm trying to make some real steel purchases at the moment.
Maybe in the future I'll run a comparison with nylon, bushing, steel bearing, & ceramic hybrid bearings.
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The guys at AirSplat were kind enough to send me a set of the Kanzen 7mm ceramic ball bearings. Being that I had yet to upgrade my Dboys SCAR-L, this seemed like a good starting point. Kanzen bearings are well known for their quality of craftsmanship and durability. Ceramic bearings offer greater load handling than traditional nylon bushings, and lower rotational resistance than either nylon or steel bushings. This in turn, should lead us to a greater ROF and lower trigger response times. I expect these should be a dramatic improvement over the stock nylon bushings, but how much?
Kanzen makes a beautiful package with an excellent set of bearings inside them. The gains archived from switching from stock nylon bushings to hybrid ceramic ball bearings was incredible. I had expected to see maybe a 1 RPS increase, but it looks as if was underestimated the performance of the ceramic bearings. I will definitely consider Kanzen ceramic bearings in my future upgrades, and I highly recommend them based on the findings of this test.
For more details the full review is available at the link below:
Infected Airsoft's Review of the Kanzen 7mm Ceramic Bearings
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The Vanaras 8mm bb adapter worked flawlessly throughout testing, and even during several skirmishes. You can easily load 6mm bbs before topping off with 8mm bbs. The set screw seemed to stay put well, and the quality of craftsmanship seems to be on par with other airsoft companies. I am pleased with the performance of this adapter, but would really like to see Vanaras come out with a full 8mm M203 40mm grenade shell.
For the full review check out the link below:
Infected Airsoft -- Vanaras 8mm 40mm Grenade Shell Adapter Review
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All in all Vanaras has made yet another upstanding product. I’m beginning to wonder if they’ve got Madbull in their sights and they are aiming to take them down. The machine work is top notch. The grenade functions flawlessly and the performance overall is excellent and on par with any other similar shell. With them being currently priced at $25.99, they are a bargain at RSOV. Construction: 9/10 Aside from possibly needing a slightly better o-ring at the top and bottom of the fill valve, it’s bang on for quality construction.
Durability:9/10 I only refrain from giving it a 10 due to the fact I’ve only skirmished with it once so far. It performed flawlessly given the cold temperatures that day.
Performance: 9/10 There’s always room for improvement. A bit better range and slightly tighter grouping would be nice, but that’s asking a lot and I’m getting nitpicky here. I could only ask honestly that they develop a self resetting system like the EGO shell that I reviewed a few weeks back.
For the full review check out the link below:
http://infectedairsoft.wordpress.com/revie...-grenade-shell/
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Tests were done with .2g bbs. I need to include that info in the review. Thanks for bringing that up.
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Just curious about the valve reset - do you just push that metal ring down every once in a while to make sure the pin resets correctly?
What I found is that sometimes you'll press the valve all the way in and you can hear it reset. The pin will not spring all the way back out, but sit about 1/8" in. When you try to fill it it will just vent out in a sporadic farting manner. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. If / when it does that, you need to open it up and press the ring back in. I found having a socket about that size makes it easy to press in place. I've only had to do that maybe 3 times out of probably 50 shots.
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Vanaras was kind enough to send a sample of these to me via the guys at RSOV. Since word of these hit the market I’ve been itching to get my hands on one. Vanaras has thrown convention out the window and decided to build a low cost M203 grenade shell by changing up the materials they used. At 133 grams, you get a shell that’s about 29% lighter than the equivalent metal shell; and at $11.99 it’s a steal. Do you get what you pay for or do you get a lot more?
What you've got here is a light weight, inexpensive, and possibly very effective grenade shell on our hands. Overall the machining looks great on the outside, and okay on the inside. I will say that the choice of materials on the inside might not be best though given some wear that I've seen on the push button / trigger. The metal components seem a bit soft. I did have a few problems resetting the valve as well, till I figured out the problem.
Overall the range is decent, and the spread is about perfect. The price, well you can't beat it.
To find out the full details and pictures, check out my review here:
http://infectedairsoft.wordpress.com/revie...m-m203-grenade/
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Becuase it comes with one. thats why.
Hum... never really looked much at the high cap... I use mids.
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Ive checked one out they fill quite nice. the only reason i like it becuase it comes with a replica noveske high cap witch is cool
What does that have to do with the scar?
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Great review infected. A couple questions, did you have any difficulty aligning the gearbox with the lower receiver, specifically the selector switch? I heard that was a bit challenging but just hear say. Also, thats pretty interesting that DBoys might have addressed the piston engagement with a longer cylinder head, did you ever get a chance to look closer into that? But to bad it sounds like the cylinder head seals like azz anyways...
I did put a G&P high speed motor into mine and that really helped the ROF. Have you had a chance to test the ROF with this motor yet?
did I not include the ROF measurements in the review? Nuts. I clocked it stock at 12.5 RPS on a 8.4v stock battery. The stock motor is garbage as when you try it with a 7.4v lipoly the ROF doesn't increase one bit.
I will be looking back into the angle of engagement in the next week or so (as I'm building up that gun). I'll fill in details as I can.
As for the removal of the gearbox from the receiver... It's not that hard if you follow directions. The dboys have literally copied the directions from CA (as the gearbox drawn in the diagrams say "Classic Army" on them). The instructions are a bit hard to follow, but not too bad.
The cylinder head seals fine, it's the piston head o-ring that stinks. Once changed, compression problems dissapear.
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Never mind, I remembered it wrong. The guy who'se SCAR I saw had an actual Systema cylinder in it, maybe he upgraded the bushings to metal at the same time too. My bad.
I thought I was right, but you threw me for a loop with that odd suggestion.
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Have you opened a VFC SCAR with the Systema clone cylinder?
Are you saying that the VFC SCAR uses a Clone of the Systema PTW cylinders? If so that's news to me. I had a guy send me pics of the internals of a VFC SCAR so I can make a comparison based on his information and pictures... if he filled me full of poo I'll have to have words with him. Unfortunately I don't have anyone local with a VFC that I can tear apart for myself (or a retailer willing to loan me one to tear apart).
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How exactly are the internals better than the VFC offering?
Sorry typo. I'll get to fixing that today. I meant to say the internals of the Dboys are a better value than the VFC. I've never really been amazed by the VFC internals. Sure put in some decent gears, but if I'm not mistaken, they use plastic bushings on top of that, and have a lower fps. It's like a mix of CA and Clone bits. I don't get it.
Dboys KAC PDW Review
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
Um... have you seen the stock? It has no storage???? Have you seen the gun?