sabrepilot9000

It can't be the brass nozzle since its a rounded piece. Something with a sharp edge did that. Chances are it could be an edge that wasnt taken off in the finishing processes during machining on the inside of the nozzle housing/hop assembly. If it isnt that then it may very well be poor machining on your nozzle. Post some shots of the front of your nozzle side by side with the dented bb. That may help give a bit more insight to the problem. What that friction your feeling is likely the rear seal of your valve assembly (the infamous part# 122) coming together with your valve

Just be sure to loctite that valve down inside the bolt carrier. It'll do wonders for your gun. Also, I saw this on airsoft buddy's site. This looks promising. http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_vie...products_id=226 Perhaps this is what WETTI has been saying about self-aligning with the nozzles? I may have to pick one up on my next order.

Yeah, when we tried it out it was having roughly the same kick as a real one. The gun now visibly jars backwards towards the user. It always did before but as an observer its much more evident now. Using it with the eotech, the gun actually jumped enough the at sometimes the reticle would disappear from the line of sight momentarily. Good stuff . Now where it differs is in the "snappi-ness" of the recoil. Locking the bolt back and releasing it really shows how the bolt has slowed a bit from the extra weight. It sounds slow in that instance but when you fire the rof doesnt really seem to

I believe John234 is correct. Helps keep the muzzle rise down since the extra space between shots lets you more easily reacquire your target.

Thanks man. Its not much but its an improvement over the standard M4A1 config/look and the length of the XM flash hider still lets me use the full length inner barrel. Woo hoo! Today I added some new stuff as well. The gun now has "foliage green" ladder ris covers installed as well as real AR-15 receiver pins. The receiver pins also help with the receiver wobble (I still use the shim anyway though). Now, the biggest improvement I made today was with the buffer. I dont know if anyone else has tried this yet but I figured I would post it up here anyhow. My friend has a rifle style bu

Whoa, how'd you get the solid stock on there man? Looks good. Well, I think I finally have got everything ironed out with this gun thanks to everyones help on here. A big thanks to Otto for his continued expertise So I loctited the valve after replacing the seal and it seems to be firing perfectly now. The receivers have been shimmed and now no longer wobble. The stock has also been shimmed and has no more wobble (have yet to get a real one since I would much rather have that). And i've almost got all the parts on it that I want. Here's some pics. So fa

so otto, your upper wobbles too? How did you shim it? Anyone know if real buffer tubes will fit on the WE lower? Was thinking about putting a full length tube on to fit a solid stock. Also, tried ottos fix for the bolt carrier and valve. So far everything seems to be copasetic. Thanks Otto.

Just thought I'd post up about the # 83 oring solution. I tried it on my gun since the stock seal died after 50 cycles and it didn't work at all (unless it was slathered in silicone). Has anyone else had a similar experience trying this?

How about the problem of the nozzle being gripped to tightly by the rubber sleeve in the barrel? Anyone found a solution to that yet by any chance?

For the venting issue, my gun seemed to have rear part of the brass sleeve (part the bolt fits around) a bit loose after firing it the first few times. Once that happened it had rotated, making the gas inlet not line up with the gas bucking on the magazine. It went from cycling very poorly to just venting the whole mag. That could also be another issue giving some people venting issues. Tomorrow I'm gonna open it up and give it some loctite and see how well that works.

Got another question here. Since I just got the gun I dont know all of its little nuances just yet, however, I was wondering about the points at which the bolt has some resistance moving back when you pull the charging handle slowly. The first point of resistance is obviously the bolt contacting the hammer on its roller bearing. However the next one, as the bolt gets about 3/4 of the way back, is much stiffer and I'm wondering what it is. Perhaps its part #122 (the oring everyone loves haha)? Any help would be appreciated, I just want to make sure I dont have a developing problem already.

Just got my shipment from AB. Took only 3 days to get here. Good stuff. I highly reccommend ordering from him. I've been following this thread since it first started but I don't recall anything about the oring size some of you have used as a spacer for the inner barrel. Anyone got any info?

Otto: Really like the idea of an aftermarket store here considering the amount of tinkering you've done with your gun. Should be good to have everything laid out for the end user instead of having to search every OSH and Lowes in town. Bleaches: I agree, I'm also interested in what peoples experience has been getting their WE M4's into the states. I just ordered one from AB (and his customer service was top notch I might add) but I am a little paranoid about customs getting their grubby hands on it.

I dont really think the plate part would work though for two reasons. First would be because you would need something hard to tap the plate back in since the upward force is also gonna have to pierce the top of the bulb as well as hold it in. Second, I think the pressure would also be a factor since its at about 800 psi (i think thats right for co2). As far as advantages of CO2, I believe it works better because it stays a liquid at a lower temperature than propane. So while it could be cold enough for propane to stay a liquid when discharged and freeze, CO2 is still able to properly v

Well, so far I've been a lurker on here since I dont have a WE yet but I just saw something on gasguns.info and had to post it on here. This was originally posted by a WE rep on the GG forums. Looks like the first shots of the CO2 mag. Very promising. http://gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=369 Really liking the fact that the base plate is what you use to screw the co2 bulb in. No hauling screwdrivers into the field. Good stuff.