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Posts posted by jal3
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What material is the nozzle made from, and is there any significant wear on the hopup rubber?
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It's not 2,8kg, that's just crazy, sorry. I've had the gold one, and the 1300gr on the box seems about right. 30% more than a hicapa.
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No, you (or others for that matter) did not indicate that in your posts. You talk about going from 15c to 25c.
C rating means little to us airsofters. It's a complicated thing about standardized testing for the manufacturer. When determining the product during their R&D, they use some different ideas than airsofters do.
You get back the A discharge rating by multiplieing the Capacity in ampere with the C number.
The C is short for Capacity.
25C is 25 * C, or 25 * 2 in case of a 25C 2000mAh battery.
You can write 7,4v 2000mAh 25C or you can write 7,4v 50A, but you can't write 7,4v 25C.
25 times Capacity only works if the capacity is also stated.
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As the gun is new I'm guessing then that it has a power hungry high torque in there which is the cause of the "problem" (there have been cases of motor failure off the bat but the odds of that are slim to none so I would forget about it), the 25C is powerful enough to tick it over, the 15C isn't.
Checking the shimming etc might get it to work with the 15C, but as above, I would be prepared to get another 25C (cheaper than a new motor).
Might be worthwhile borrowing another motor from a spare gun (assuming you have a spare with the same motor length and the motor is man enough) that ticks over with the 15C ok, then stick it in the "problem" gun and vice versa for verification. If the "borrowed" motor ticks over ok in the DMR box - then its a hungry hungry high torque, if the borrowed motor has difficulties as well however, then the problem obviously resides in the gear box setup. (only suggest this because it is probably quicker to swap motors over rather than take the box apart and reset it up)
- Just for clarification with the mAh - that isn't directly the cause here, its the C rating (C rating dictates more or less, peak discharge - bigger C rating, the higher the maximum discharge) that's the problem, the mAh is basically the storage capacity of the battery - the larger the mAh the longer it will last.
(Actually it's a touch more complicated than that, mAh does affect the max discharge rate, but with only a 400mAh variance between the batteries it's inconsequential, next to the relatively huge difference in C rating)
C is not a discharge unit.
Discharge rating is measured in A.
12, 15, 25c etc alone is meaningless.
Your common 1500mAh stocktube battery is rated for 35A+ burst discharges (which all airsoft discharges are).
A normal 400fps 30rps rifle draws 20-25A.
If you cannot pull a 440fps DMR, don't change the battery as a solution (altough it's the easiest) :<
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Last game I went to my gun was chronoed at 400fps w/ .2s. I used .4s and made plenty of 300ft+ shots. Were I live most guns shoot over 200ft. Wind and brush don't do much to .4s
Let me summarize the thread and repeat it for you very clearly.
A:
There is no such thing as velocity determing range.
There is only energy (joule) and BB weight (air drag).
B:
Energy is derived by calculating velocity and weight together.
C:
It does not matter what accelerates the BB up to a given energy.
D:
4,2J is the equivalent of a M210 AEG.
It is VERY rare to see an AEG performing to it's 210m/s rating with a 0,40 and hopup dialed as such.
If you compare your rifle with another persons AEG, both rifles must shoot EXACTLY the same.
That is, both rifles must shoot 145m/s with a 0,40 and the hopup set.
Otherwise, it's a wrong comparison.
If you do not understand this, just memorize it.
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We can only judge you from what you write.
Let me summarize the thread and repeat it for you very clearly.
A:
There is no such thing as velocity determing range.
There is only energy (joule) and BB weight (air drag).
B:
Energy is derived by calculating velocity and weight together.
C:
It does not matter what accelerates the BB up to a given energy.
D:
4,2J is the equivalent of a M210 AEG.
It is VERY rare to see an AEG performing to it's 210m/s rating with a 0,40 and hopup dialed as such.
If you compare your rifle with another persons AEG, both rifles must shoot EXACTLY the same.
That is, both rifles must shoot 145m/s with a 0,40 and the hopup set.
Otherwise, it's a wrong comparison.
If you do not understand this, just memorize it.
Here's some charts. Bitches love charts.
These are NOT EFFECTIVE RANGES. It is merely energy loss to air drag ratio information.
However, this is the main factor in why a heavy BB shoots further.
The graphs may not show it clearly, but the difference should be noted in relation to Y axis 0, not each other.
At 4,2 joule, we should be shooting 0,87 steel bearings for the longest range. It's unpopular for other reasons though
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Not to jump on the bashwagon, but i gotta admit, he's a prime example of who shouldn't be sold a polar star. Little knowledge of airsoft and too arrogant to learn the tools used.
I guess the point is; ignore the people who don't care and blame the fields for not filtering them out. They should update their rules to modern ones and enforce them properly.
It's not hard really. Most fields here have switched to a raw joule limit, and it's actually simpler to enforce than the old methods.
Perhaps Polarstar should include a small pamplet educating people on what joule is. This is the kind of situation that gets their product banned from more fields, so it might be interesting to them.
If anybody know where Short Stack plays, please write to the fields and inform of this cheating (in a constructive way).
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I'll give you that polarstar rifles get less energy than some gas rifles (900psi WE m4's, i'm looking at you), but it's still enough to be a problem.
I ran mine at the following:
70psi
black nozzle
363mm barrel
Lowest dwell (think it was 15dP)
I got 110m/s with 0,20 and 90m/s with 0,40. That's a 40% increase in energy from 0,20 to 0,40 (Most fields here run 1,69j max on auto rifles, so 90m/s 0,40 was the goal).
When Short Stack is firing a 0,40 at 475fps, that's 4,2J, or in terms of tune up, a M210 Fullauto AEG. Frankly i find it frightening that people buy polar stars and aren't aware of what joule is.
I guess it's up to the field owners to educate and regulate the use of it, but it's kind of cheating even if the field owners just aren't aware of joule. I get it's a "DMR" rifle and as such 4,2J isn't wrong, but the owner doesn't exactly radiate waste amounts of knowledge about joule.
We have the same problem here with the Dan Wesson revolvers and the sar10 CO2 rifles. It's 200$ for a rifle that shoots 4J. With 0,20. Then newbies buy it and think it's ok. They don't realize that when they put in a 0,40 it hits over 7J.
So whenever we spot someone with one of those two weapons, they get chronoed and get a crashcourse in what joule is and how their safety distance is.
The Dan Wessons are almost non existent by now. They tend to have a longer MED than they can hit at, so...
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+1 on the cinematography. 720P 60fps then slowed down right?
The only thing that bothers me a bit is the shaking. Are you using a stabilizing mount of any kind?
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It's gearsim yo.
'FireKnife'
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2 ring pattern. Try a different brand of BB.
'FireKnife'
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Okay that's some pretty badass kit then...
I really like the color overlay used in the smoke scenes.
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Info about your camera rig Warbear!
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DEET is serious powerful stuff, i've seen mosquitoes land on my arm and roll off dead within seconds.
Boonie hat and net cloth also helps greatly.
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Solved.
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[23:38] <JaL> hey
[23:38] <JaL> could you ban me for and remove it again in 10 secs? need to test something
[23:42] =-= Mode #arniesairsoft +b *!*@<ip> by Mosfut
[23:42] =-= YOU (JaL) have been booted from #arniesairsoft by Mosfut (JaL)
[23:42] [iNFO] You are banned from this channel.
[14:17] [iNFO] You are banned from this channel. <---today
Could you handle this? Thank you.
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Here are the pics already, some explaining will follow later, should be working right now...
Don't know if you knew it, but the outer and inner barrel is quick detachable like the real one (with a bit of modding). Makes getting the box out a lot easier than disassembling the entire front.
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Same here, their customer service is severely lacking. It seems like the safest bet is to buy through Amped Airsoft, though that's a bit bad if one wants to be a reseller.
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And more.
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:0 You weren't afraid of radiation dangers?
I am not in these videos or affiliated with the people in them.
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G&P Stoner MK.23 LMG
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
I'd sell it off and just mount some rails on the original handguard. It's got holes for screws and is perfect sized.