rottenotto
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Posts posted by rottenotto
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Yeah, total bogus.
I will never ever spend more money on just a reciever than the actual gun costs.
All those bodies for the Western arms are around $200, most less.
And about the P-Mags:
I guess anyone who knows how to operate a dremel and a screwdriver can build his WE M4 mag core into a real steel P-mag.
I don't think I will ever buy any TSC product again, since 95% of their stuff either doesn't work at all (enhanced recoil buffer) or ist badly made and need a lot of filing or whatever (KAC style trigger guard).
And I already heard that their 12" and 10" barrel wobble and need a boatload of filing.
PMC makes great parts for the WE M4. I got a charging handle, a barrel, anti-rotation pins you name it and all those products are perfect, fit and work flawlessly.
Oh, and since we're talking about it.
I haven't seen even one picture of these "limited" LaRue recievers yet.
I agree 100,000% about TSC.
And if the truth was told??
There isnt ONE single aftermarket "upgrade" part for the WE worth a dime. (Cosmetic parts and "barrels" are one thing....supposed "internal enhancements" are another.)
And as for these "enhanced parts"? People, save your money.
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It's fine. It's just so tight that it's weird. It's kinda tight that it's annoying to adjust. But no big deal. And strangely on third position counting from fully collapsed it clicks froward and backwards even with the friction lock on.
If you see what i mean. Please help.
Tight is good!!!
Hell, wobble SUCKS!
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^NAZIO
Have a look at the wiki page under trouble shooting/lower receiver.
There is a post for "mags falling out from recoil" - I just updated the verbage for you.
Trouble shooting;Lower receiver;Mags falling out of magwell
The trouble shooting section covers most issues. (90%)
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OK Otto.
Thank You for Your response, gonna try brass nozzle with CO2 housing, see how it behaves. Issues with my v.1, are inconsistent power, double burst shots on semi - auto. I dont remember how it work with brass nozzle, as it was few months ago, and straight after one game i did change it to steel nozzle.
Cant used the old brass nozzles with the Co2 setup, unfortunately.
Different shape and just wont work. Must use the old 'non Co2 setup' (gas only).
Maybe if WE is listening again, they will make a new Co2 nozzle out of steel with smaller windows/ports like the old brass nozzle heads.
There is no question there is some issue with the WIDE OPEN PORTS on the steel nozzles, gas and Co2. It needs some revision.
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Alston251
They finally listened to all of us on the boards...DITCH THAT HORRIBLE GREEN SILICONE MATERIAL FOR THE HOP MATERIAL!
Thats good news - now we have two durometer hop rubbers (Like Prometheus for AEG's).
It was good intentions (using the green high durometer material) since the guns were designed to shoot at almost 500fps.
The problem is, most people tuned the guns down to skirmish levels - and at the lower fps, the guns were badly overhopped. Made worse by trying to use bb's lighter than a .30g.
Nazio
Im not positive I understand your post/question?
If you are asking about correcting the erratic power delivery, then YES.
In the case of my gun - and 2 others belonging to friends - the brass nozzle completely eliminated the erratic power. Every pull of the trigger gave the same exact power. never varies. Ever.
The steel nozzles were problems in all of the guns.
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well i shoved some tweezers into that hole
Too flexy.
You need a GOOD set of needle nose pliers with teeth.
This is to hold the rod not turn it (in the place I described, under the tube/spacer)
Heat the brass (or steel) nozzle - you dont need a ton of heat. And you dont want to melt the O-rings.
Slip a thin allen key through the port windows of the brass (or steel) nozzle head to create a "t handle" of sorts....and unscrew the nozzle.
Comes right off.
PS...
If there is the slightest bit of flex in any of your tools - needle nose grips/pliers - or the tool you insert across the ports of teh nozzle - all of your torque will be lost in the flex and it wont come off.
If your tools are sturdy and tempered (like a quality allen key) there will be no flex and the nozzle will unthread with almost no effort.
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what brand .28 bbs are you guys using... i only have 20s and there shooting horrible. im lookin at the madbull 28s but hard to find in stock.
.30 at least......or heavier.
.20 isnt even close to an option.
I use KSC perfect .30g and swear it is the BEST surface when used wih the new gen2 "two lip" hop rubber.
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Hey Alston251
And anybody else attempting to take off/unthread the nozzle.
Slide the plastic tube/spacer down the rod - AWAY from the nozzle.
With your leatherman pliers or whatever tool you like - You grip RIGHT WHERE THE SPACER WAS!
You can scar the living *chaffinch* out of it - it wont matter.
The tube slides back in place over the scarred area - that part of the rod cant go into the piston head. Its forbidden by this spacer.
So no rough or gritty operation.
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Going to try sealing my mags as some leak - is it this stuf you use (UK equivalent) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...yId_165691#dtab ??
Also, Otto, did you have to do anything to your v2 hop rubber to stop it from over hoping? I bought the barrel and rubbers a couple of months back but have not yet fitted them as most people I know who did have overhop problems.
Nope, never needed to "mod" it......but you DO have to select a good rubber. They are VERY inconsistent.
I wrote about this here on the forum way back when they were first released (picking out a good rubber bucking).
I really need to add a post at the WIKI site.......basically showing the inconsistencies in them and picking out the best bucking; One that just peaks through the inner barrel and no more.
I have been so busy with work though - summer is my busy season.
The gen2 hop up rubbers are NOT all the same and was the reason for WILDLY different reviews as for its performance. (Typical WE quality control - lackadaisical.)
If you pick the right one out of a handful of green rubbers/sleeves, you will have near laser beam accurate shots with excellent consistency. If you pick a wrong one, the results are poor.
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Do you mean the original gas nozzles or c02 one's dont have the problem? sorry just bad wording and have a c02 nozzle in the mail.
Correct. The original brass nozzles with small window ports are perfectly consistent. Never any fluctuation in power. Never any "pfft" shots where the bb only goes 40 feet into the ground.
The steel nozzles (gas use only) that came out with the larger window ports are a problem. In three guns, they immediately started causing the erratic power problem described above when installed.
When they were removed and the brass nozzles refitted, the problem immediately went away. We tried the steel nozzles again for the Hell of it, refitting them back in, and the problem was back. There is NO DOUBT it is the nozzle heads - and more specifically, the port size (the only significant difference between brass and steel nozzle heads).
Now,...the Co2 nozzles are reported to have the same problem as the steel gas nozzles. Im reading it/hearing it over and over again on the forums and at the fields.
They too have the enormous windows (gas ports)....the thinking is that the enormous windows occasionaly close the floating valve too quickly depending on how the nozzle is rotated in the gun. (nozzle is always rotating every shot)
At that moment when it seals too quickly, not enough of the gas jet gets into the chamber to propel the bb,......and you get a weak shot.
This problem seems to have zero to do with the 'cooldown of steel' as some had thought. Its the same as brass. In fact, after tinkering, brass seems more reactive to cold then steel.
The only thing the steel nozzles are good for are the steel floating valves inside - the brass valves would all break in a matter of time.
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JM
I have the gun at 480 all the time. I dont skirmish it, so no need for FPS reduction.
I use KSC .30 perfect bb's.....sooooo consistent with the revised hop rubber. Every shot.
The biggest problem I had briefly, was what others complaining about.......it shoots nice and snappy for a few rounds on semi, then starts shooting soft, then snappy again.
It was simply the steeel nozzle causing it......three guns. We switched back to brass nozzles with the SMALL window ports, and all the guns fired like champs again.
Im convinced that the root of the power inconsistency is the port size on the steel nozzles. Original gas nozzles or the Co2 nozzle.
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If anyone has a stabilizer they are willing to sell and ship to me that would be great! PM me
Thank you!
The white stabilizer?
You SOOO dont need that.
Just center the nozzle head and blue locktite the end bolt. (directions at wiki post)
The stabilizer is another case of "good idea/poor execution".
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Otto, I'm having an issue with the CO2 mag I just got from AB. One of the seals in the valve is leaking. Not sure how or why it started to leak as I probably put 20 or so 12g's through it before it developed. Not to mention I am getting horrific efficiency out of the CO2 mag and conversion... I'm talking just enough gas for 30 rounds, maybe.
People have been claiming 60+ rounds on one 12g, but I'm not seeing it.
Cool down is far, far worse than with the propane mags as well.
Thanks Boost
You just saved me money.
My setup has been the propane mags, BRASS nozzle head, and steel floating valve. new hopup & inner barrel.
The gun shoots laser beam straight to ungodly distances.
Its just the damn mags.......leak just awful.
They need to be CONSTANTLY used to keep from leaking. If they sit, they are done.
It takes a few days of refilling and venting to recondition them. And still, they pizz just a bit.
I didnt want to redo my gun for CO2.......now there is no way I would bother.
If somebody would come out with a better mag, I would be all set.
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Okay,...
It is mid summer.....
And I'd trade my kingdom FOR A GAWDDAMNED MAGAZINE THAT DOESNT LEAK!!!
Some quick help? Do the Co2 mags leak as bad as these gawdawful propane mags?
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btw, here is my finally final WE.
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Would be awesome if redwolf didn't threw the mags at the wall before shipping.
LOL...that gave me a good laugh. I dont know why it hit me so funny. I guess the visual.
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Guns with trades rock boats, .....welcome to airsoft.
Though I may be confused as to the convoluted relationship between WE/Wetti/distributors/affiliate/whatever.
Again, "welcome to Airsoft"
(or this forum)
Its all hogwash man. Same farking guns. Buy from whoever has one for sale.
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^ swis cheese your bolt carrier if you want to feel a difference.
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^ Playing around with heavier/counter weighted buffers is a fools game. Well documented already by all who have bought custom ones.
The WA clone has "perceived" great kick because its LIGHT, not heavy.
Their buffer is CHEAP lightweight plastic - no metal at all.
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Shame about the colours. Could have done with them in plain, good ol' white...
Ben.
lol...roger that.
Also,..
War4toys shipping rates SUCK. Makes AB look tame.
They will >not< work with you on small shipments.
You need to a BIG order to come out on shipping with war4.
CHEF...
Sorry to hear that the gun is still giving you trouble and its not because of the SUCK AZZ steel nozzles.
I would have bet my life you were having the same problem.
Every single person in my area who bought the steel nozzle had FPS all over the place...I mean >every< person.
Unscrew the bolt, put the brass nozzle back in, shoots like a champ again - consistent.
Swap the steel nozzle back in.....and the gun shoots like junk.... 500fps to 160fps in one pull.
The only thing the non Co2 steel nozzle assembly is good for, is the steel floating valve.
Put this in the "small window" brass nozzle head and you have the "hot steup".
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Well, just tried my M4 using 0.36's....
still the same problem.
I think its definitely a power inconsistency now though.
Decided to run it through the crono, and on 0.2's I get a variation of between about 450fps and just below 300fps. There's no pattern to it.
Back on the shelf she goes until I can get hold of the CO2 conversion kit.
And to cap my day off, one of the mags started leaking again... So no matter what o-rings I try, how often I soak them, or how much PTFE I stick on it, this one continues to defy me!
Chef,
Im guessing you are using the STEEL non CO2 nozzle?
It is the root of all inconsistency problems.....it is a steaming pile of c-h-i-t.
Erratic FPS is traced back to the size of the ports. The floating valve seals off too fast or too slow.
Too slow isnt a problem,.... too fast and the fps drops to a drizzle.
Switch back to the brass nozzle with small gas ports ("windows") and all will be well.
I have had to do this in 3 WE M4's...all had your problems. All were fixed immediately with a brass nozzle.
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If they made a lefty Stag receiver then it would have been impressive. Still, stag does have quite a reputation in the LE/civilian AR-15 world.
STAG=CMT (Continental Machine and Tool).
No doubt CMT makes quality/low cost receivers. They make for RRA, High Standard, Noveske, Century, Global Tactical, Smith & Wesson, and others.
STAG is CMT's own company they formed.
And laughably the ugliest, lamest, most "non tactical" trademarks ever put on an AR lower receiver.
Weak. Not just my opinion, but many shooters.
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Stag Arms traded receiver....
http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_vie...products_id=396
Yeck.....why Stag??
The lamest trades in the entire AR15 world.
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hey otto, did you get the nozzle yet?
Not yet Somegirls,
Ill keep an eye out.
Post is slow between our countries,
Thanks again my friend ; )
WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
A "tester"?!!
Its made by WE, OF COURSE it leaks!!!