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amateurstuntman

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Everything posted by amateurstuntman

  1. You can go over the UK limit on a regular barrel, tune the rocket valve and spring until you get the desired power and don't worry about the silencer. Other than looking good it just takes away all the advantages of having an MP9. I made an old HK TMP do well over 400 with a custom tight barrel.
  2. Also, the rough finish on the anodising in the ramp area of the mags caused jams, I polished mine up - zero defects.
  3. Knocked up a little DCOA: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/204930-kwa-mp9-disassembly/ Just let me know if I can do anything else.
  4. Thank you. I enjoy airsoft because I don't take it too seriously I think. Plus all my kit just works, it's not even the same colours because I buy it all second hand...
  5. From the album: Junk

  6. That is a disconnecting sear. In full auto mode it discharges a shot and in semi auto mode it drops the hammer down onto the semi auto sear that is activated by the trigger. Mine is broken and now I can't shoot at all. Replacement is in the post from America (yay) it will take 2 to 3 weeks (boo). Would there be any interest in a DCOA guide for this beastie? I can do one when I am sorting out the replacement pictures for the P226 guide.
  7. Yeah, it's a little awkward since the email is a non-return system so you have to go through the online ticket system. Works though. I've ordered some, I'll report back with how well it goes.
  8. From the album: Junk

    B&T GL-06 in a home-made back scabbard on my chest rig.
  9. From the album: Junk

  10. Broke mine this weekend, the disconnector snapped. I've ordered a new one from KWA USA, we'll see how they do.
  11. Hello. Sorry it's been too clear here for me to see the Stunt signal on the clouds. Actually, what does Batman do when it isn't cloudy? Eh? What you need to do is remove the cage with all the trigger mechanism parts in it. Separate the trigger mechanism from the trigger bar. Remove the 2 pins at the front of the mech cage (one on either side) and the one long one at the back (goes through both sides and through the trigger bar). Once they are out the whole mech cage should lift out and you can disassemble it separately. Bit of a fiddly job but shouldn't present too much of a
  12. I had an optic on mine but removed it, I can see perfectly well through the iron sights but I don't use them either. I just point and twitch. I left the stock on though since it allows me to aim with my whole body. I love mine it is getting on for being my only gun now.
  13. I lent mine to a friend and the nozzle snapped clean in half as he fired it. I wasn't there so I don't know the whole story but there is a chance it could be related to the RA tech NPAS valve.
  14. Photo please mate. You will need a pin drift and something to rest the bolt on that has a hole in it for the pin to go into.
  15. Hop rubber is the standard KSC one, not Marui compatible. Don't know about woodland ranges, sorry.
  16. Thanks, I'll re-do them later. It seems my camera was on its last legs and died right after I did those videos.
  17. Videos added to the other review. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=191652&view=findpost&p=2431360
  18. I have the Pantac MP5 triple and they fit in that like a glove. The G+P, Flyye and Pantac are all very similar.
  19. Barrel assembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cROuujEx1D8 Any specific requests, just ask...
  20. Look inside the bolt and fitting of the N.P.A.S. system: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3NUQb3TQxI
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