Jump to content

christhesecond

Forum guru
  • Content Count

    621
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by christhesecond

  1. After upgrading the spring in my 416D, I went to take the upper off the lower to change the inner barrel and the front body pin is stuck firm. It bushes about 1mm then does not move. I've put as much force into it as I'm willing to without risking breaking the receiver. I've tried pushing the receivers together, pulling them apart etc etc but it just won't budge.

     

    Anyone else had this problem/have a solution?

  2. Can anyone recommend a motor with a bit more torque? I'm running a 25c 7.4 lipo currently and I'd like to up the rpm slightly without going to an 11.1.

    My plan was to wait for one of these spectre MOSFET thingys, shove an 11.1 in and use the fet to turn the rpm down to a reliable figure. Sadly it looks like I'll be waiting a few years yet for that. :s

  3. Definitely remove the stupidly high resistance *suitcase* in the stock. It's a fix for a non existent problem IMO.

     

    Personally I wouldn't touch the barrel or hop as I did and initially I thought it was better but now I've realised that was a bit of a placebo.

     

    I upgraded to an eagle6 m100 which it found does make a huge difference. The extra 45 fps makes a big difference.

  4. 416 now deans converted to run on lipo (quick change suck big time !) , f**k me that's a fast rate of fire ! Need to get up to stewpidbear's gaff so I can stick it on his chrono to check the rate of fire but I'm sure when he did his he was getting around the 16-18rps out of it .

    Plus I can confirm you can fit a 7.4v 2600 in it with ease .

    Nice one. I deans modded mine too and the rof increase was surprising. Got a link the the 2300 lipo you're using mate? :)

  5. From what I've read it's pretty similar. I've yet to try it yet but I have changed the inner barrel and hop bucking/nub and there are the 3 plastic spacers on the outside of the gearbox and for te hop up to deal with although that is extremely simple. My understanding is that everything else inside is the same apart from the ambi selector gear which is also very simple.

     

    This has some info:

    http://www.airsoftcommunity.it/recensioni/asg/28-marui/1113-tokyo-marui-h-k-416d

  6. Fair point but 70 yards is a *fruitcage* long way. I used mine last year on the hottest day of the year with a cqb bolt (was firing just under 350 chronod with 0.2s)and was just about making it out to 60 yards. I was using 0.3s and it was firing perfectly but IMO that amount of energy just isn't enough to make it stretch out to 70 yards and beyond. Unless you apply a *suitcase* load of hop and lob them but even then the air resistance stops them at around that far anyway. I want this guys to be right as if he is I wanna get the same range. ;)

  7. What does it chrono at? 70 yards with no hop and a cqb bolt sounds physics defying to me tbh.

     

    Pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by a hop spacer? Also, does the 190mm tb stick out of the flash hider?

  8. Chronod mine today at circa 285 with a Prometheus tb and hop set for 0.25s.

    Got the firefly hop bits coming so will fit those and retest power/range/accuracy then ill fit an eagle6 m100 and rewire at the rear.

    Currently getting 13rps with a 7.4v 25c lipo. With a stronger spring but then wiring with less resistance I imagine ill get around the same maybe a touch higher.

    Anyone know if the buffer tube cap can be unscrewed easily or does it need that tool on echigoya?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.