Sale
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Posts posted by Sale
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I find the banana in Horsem4n's picture rather interesting. What's up with that? Certainly you can't eat it while wearing the mask...
-Sale
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The gear ratio is 27,82:1 and on top of that the spring tension will be lower because the space for the spring is longer. I'd be confident with anything up to M160–M170. What I might do is switch the sector gear bearings to solid bushings.
-Sale
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With the stock spring (which in the unit I tested provided 460 fps with 0.2 g BBs) even 8,4 V 1100 mAh "mini" type batteries were enough energy for a reliable cycle. It's just a lot slower than usual, so you really need to keep the trigger all the way back until the cycle has finished.
The slow cycle doesn't mean that the battery and motor are struggling: the gear ratio is just really high torque, so the RPM is lower.
If you switch to a higher voltage battery, be sure to get a MOSFET circuit with active braking. Otherwise you'll risk premature engagement, because the piston stroke is long and the flat part of the sector gear is short. Another way to help prevent this problem is to use a stronger spring.
-Sale
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If you modified your green WE hop rubber in any way (like grinding it down) it will roll out the barrel for sure. Others who have modded the green hop material have noted the same in pages way back.
I cut off a piece of the rubber, but the BBs have not started to roll out. It just reduced the hop-up to a much lower level. I'd have to test-shoot it to find out exactly how low weight BBs I can use, but it's definitely reduced and the BBs aren't rolling out.
It all comes back to the weight and inertia of the heavy bolt/loading nozzle, knocking the bb's forward.The weight is in a way irrelevant, because it has way enough inertia to positively knock the the BB forward. Whether it's 150 grams or 250 grams doesn't matter. After the BB has been brought into motion, the key is the velocity and how far it is pushed. It could be a too hasty return stroke and/or a too long nozzle. (I'm not saying it is, but could be.)
I'm thinking it's possible that the system somehow traps air into the blowback system on the forward stroke, and the blow of air is enough to push the BB past the hop-up rubber. Just a thought. With regular GBB pistols the excessive gas is bled out because the nozzle and magazine are disconnected, but the WE M4 mag retains a tight seal with the blowback cylinder at all times.
When the moving parts are coming forward and the nozzle has just entered the black rubber chamber, where does the remaining air in the system escape as the bolt carrier and nozzle move the final few millimeters forward? I think the only way out is from the gap between the BB and inner barrel – and that gap is small.
-Sale
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Hmm, now I've got a shredded #122 as well. I noticed the entire piston/nozzle assembly was loose within the bolt carrier, so it has definitely caused #122 to hit the blowback cylinder on the way forward.
The piston head should definitely be redesigned. I think the Nine Ball Dyna piston head would make a great archetype. A larger front flange, ports to expand the O-ring and a beefy O-ring instead of a fragile "skirted" Y-ring. That's my wish list: A great seal but more durability.
Another improvement would be some blue loctite on the flat-head screw #36 that secures the piston to the bolt carrier. Just make sure you don't get any of that agent on the O-ring #37.
-Sale
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Well if you lock the screw in place with red locktite, it'll be nippy in the place where all the good music is when it comes apart.
But I do have to admit that your roll pin solution is quite neat.
-Sale
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Hmm, I was just looking at the bolt carrier and charging handle.
Instead of trying to add stuff on a real aluminum charging handle, why not weld some additional metal on the steel bolt carrier instead? That should be easy even with basic welding tools, and you can finish it with a file. Then you could use any RS charging handles – drop-in.
-Sale
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Here's a pair, representing 2/9 of my ink (by numbers, not surface or other difficult method). Made by Julia at Star Crossed Tattoo.
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If the RS charging handle is forged (steel) could you not add a blob of weld using a MIG welder to the tip, and then grind it down to size with a Dremel and a cutting disc?
Forged, yes, but not out of steel. You could TIG weld some aluminum on it, but it's really really tricky business. You need a seriously skilled welder for aluminum. I'd finish it with a file to get a nice flat surface.
You guys are asking for trouble with steel charging handles.Real AR15's do NOT use steel charging handles as they wear out the receivers.
A better quality aluminum charging handle is what you want.
Hmm, then those steel charging handles must be finished poorly, because the steel bolt carrier with its polished contact surfaces doesn't seem to wear out the aluminum receiver and buffer tube it's moving in. But I do agree. The real AR-15 has an aluminum charging handle, so if only for realism the WE handle should be aluminum as well.
The problem is that we're comparing forged aluminum parts to die-cast ones. (Goes for the receivers as well, by the way.)
In semi, after a round is fired my trigger clicks on the way back to the ready to fire position. Apparently the clicking is from the hammer moving up 1/8-1/4 inch. Is this normal? I don't recall it happening before, but I'm not sure.It's perfectly normal and realistic too. It's one of the things that my shooting mate noted and complimented when I demonstrated the WE M4 to him.
When you pull the trigger #57 (which also acts as a sear), the hammer #50 drops. When the bolt carrier #33 cycles and cocks the hammer, the hammer is held back by the disconnector #54. As you reset the trigger, the disconnector lets go of the hammer, but by that time the sear (trigger) is already able to catch the hammer and hold it back.
In full auto the disconnector is disabled from catching the hammer by the selector #72. When the bolt carrier cycles and cocks the hammer, the hammer is caught by the full-auto sear #48. As the bolt carrier returns to battery, it hits the top of the full auto sear, causing the hammer to fall again without interruption.
This is 100% the same principle and sequence how the firing mechanism of a real safe-semi-full AR-15 variant works as well. Just the part numbers and the look are different.
-Sale
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A couple of reasons that explain the perceived difference in recoil between the WA and WE:
- The WE is heavier, weighing the same as the real thing. Of course the underweight WA kick is going to feel better.
- The WA has a loose recoil spring. The return stroke is sluggish to be honest. It doesn't slow down the bolt carrier on the way back much. Put a loose recoil spring in the WE if you want to feel the shock against your shoulder.
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The RS charging handle is drop-in into the WE, and functions 100% the same. They also feel exactly the same for the looks, balance... It's ridiculously close. (Save for a catch, read on...)
For kicks I tried to fit the WE handle into the real one but it wouldn't let the bolt carrier all the way forward. Here's the reason: The WE handle has an enlargement at the front, which engages the WE bolt carrier. (The front of the charging handle has a lug to pull the BC back, with a hole through it for the gas key and gas tube.) The real charging handle does not have this enlargement, so it does not engage the WE bolt carrier with the same contact area as the WE charging handle. This contact area can be insufficient, and I could see the WE steel bolt carrier wearing the real charging handle gradually to the point that the front lug of the charging handle slips on top of the bolt carrier and causes a jam.
My advice would be to stick to the WE handle. If the first batch had fragile ones, get the new as a WE spare part.
I've given the WE charging handle a good tugging both in the WE and my real one (although the WE handle didn't quite let the real BC all the way forward), and I'm convinced that it can take a beating. Change the locking latch if you want to, but leave the handle itself stock.
-Sale
P.S. I'm writing a rather detailed article of this GBB carbine for the next issue of Airsoft Soldier magazine, so if you found the above input useful, make sure you get your hands on issue #4 when it comes out. http://www.airsoft-soldier.com
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Another vote for the excellence of the TM MEU pistol here. It's lightweight and the grips are plastic, but everything else about it is great.
I would much rather get tritium vials separately, and drill blind holes for them in the original Marui sights. Or better yet, just live with a black rear sight. You don't need dots in the rear sight that much: The front sight is most important, and you should be able to replace that fairly easily.
Here's a pistol I built for a friend of mine, based on the TM MEU:
Redwolf also have an article on the TM MEU and PGC metal kit going together. Well worth a read: http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/...il?reviewID=205
Cheers,
Sale
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Real steel uppers are stronger. That's why I have one on my Sun Project.
The lowers are far more difficult (impossible?) to fit. It would be legal in Finland but I have simply chosen not to go through with that. Only pressure-bearing components (barrel, breech face/bolt/slide/whatever-faces-the-rear-of-the-casing) require a licence in Finland.
-Sale
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Radiusing the gearbox explained in the following link. It's in Finnish, but the pics are more than self-explanatory: http://juoksuhauta.net/stories.php?story=mecha
Gearbox radiusing is an effective method to reduce stress around the gearbox "cylinder window" corners, which are the frequent (only?) points of failure. It is not a 100% sure way to prevent a gearbox from cracking, but it does reduce the risk significantly.
As much as I agree with Sc0rpi0n that you shouldn't draw too hasty conclusions based on one cracked gearbox, you could have gotten heads to turn much more easily with a softer approach.
Gear grinding is related to the Systema gears you were using. At specific gear ratios, you need to mill out a chunk of the gearbox - and it's even advised in the Systema instructions, at least with the FTKs that have those gears (like the M160 G3 FTK).
I've seen some boxes (like G&P) take very hard punishment even without radiusing, but it's a good heads-up that this King Arms box was blasted (even though it's just an individual case), so radiusing is probably a good idea if you get one.
-Sale
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Seems to be in line what I shot with one before. I was getting about 30 mm groupings (center to center) with five shots from 10 meters off-hand.
I'm really torn what to think about it, because as impressive as it is for an airsoft pistol, it's not accurate enough for me to use in any serious practice. If they did the precision shooting thing in Hong Kong, I'd definitely get one of these.
-Sale
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What's the size of that coin? Not all of us are familiar with this currency.
Brilliant idea to use foam like that. Nice round holes instead of ragged rips.
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Very detailed and informative! Thanks!
I've shot some BBs through a chrono with this thing, and the consistency was better than anything I've seen in Airsoft before. Compressed air. <3
-Sale
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Hot weather would increase the pressure, which increases velocity and blowback... At the cost of increased gas consumption as well.
-Sale
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Pure uneducated speculation follows.
The WA M4 is designed to run on HFC134a. Green gas has around 70% more pressure. How about a valve lock that allows the valve to close a little bit more than the original, or perhaps earlier? It would preserve gas, yet the blowback speed would be the same or better than with HFC134a. Muzzle velocity would be unaffected, because the initial hammer strike opens the valve fully.
The "uneducated" part means that I don't know whether they did the valve locks like this. But that's how I would design them.
-Sale
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Could be that the valve lock is altered to leave the valve a bit less open, which would preserve gas. It would not affect the velocity because the BB is shot with the first blast of gas that comes out of the magazine, as the hammer pushes the valve fully open. The guy behind PGC is a genious, I've met him a couple of times. I wouldn't assume any BS there.
-Sale
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Now for WA to release a GBB AK....
If they can churn out this beast...I see no reason not to churn out an AK.
Like they made the Makarov because they have 1911s in their lineup.
No, wait...
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Then why aren't they charging that markup to the locals?
Because the locals aren't the customers of these companies' wholesale customers.
For example, "Hong Kong Airsoft Shop X" sells to "US Airsoft Retailer Z" on a wholesale basis. The US retailer gets the mags for 88 USD based on your figure, plus cargo. The US retailer wants to pay the rent and maybe eat something, so they have to add something on top of the price they are paying. Even if HKASX is charging 106 USD, they offer a better price than USARZ can. If HKASX were to have the same price list for their wholesale customers and overseas individual customers, they would really put USARZ, their important customer, in a very hard position.
Local US and European retailers can provide services and walk-in shops and other conveniences that HK shops can't, but they can not win a price war against the very same shops that sell the stuff to them in the first place. I've thought it's a perfectly normal practice to have one price list for wholesale customers, and another price list for retail customers who buy online. I've learnt this at a quite young age, as the family of my best childhood friend run a business of their own. My parents? They are both artists.
Selling locally with "street prices" is a favor for the locals, and doesn't hurt the wholesale customers 8000 km away. I don't see how that's a bad thing.
And yet... hmmm... how interesting... there was a standard 30% (on average) markup even back then.In the beginning phase of any company (when they don't have the expense of a warehouse and staff, sales volume is lower. Yes, I'm an eel when it comes to explanations.
I have a rough idea of markups in quite a few ranges of various products, and Airsoft markups are among the lowest I know. 30% may sound high for a layman, but it honestly is a markup of the lower side in general comparison. No need to take my word for it, just read what Chillindrdure said for example.
While I'm not saying that HK shops MUST sell at $88, I do know that the markup is exceptionally high as they're capitalizing on the popularity of this product as I heard this direct from several HK suppliers. They simply know that people WILL pay it as there's no alternative.I would argue that if a markup of around 30% is applied all products regardless of popularity, then the retailers are not milking the consumers for this particular product. I was disappointed with the high price of the magazines as well, but because a standard markup appears to have been applied, we should blame WA first for making the cost price that high.
My suggestion for someone who lives in Japan to take advantage of the situation would ultimately have little to no impact on the HK airsoft retailer market as I highly doubt one or two people in Japan making the occasional bulk order for resale will even be a blip on the HK radar. But who knows? Maybe such a small feat will send the entire HK markup monopoly come crashing down! Yeah right. I wish.I'm not a business-minded person and I don't really worry about this kind of things. I'm a consumer as much as you are, but in this case I would point the finger at WA for the end price of WA mags.
Someone buying WA mags from Japan and selling them to foreign WA M4 owners is foremost doing a favor for the buyers, and makes a few bucks in between. Someone selling individual mags would have to set the price quite low to be competitive: From a retailer the mags can be part of a larger order, so shipping cost will be proportionally lower.
I'm not throwing any rocks if someone buys WA mags for a lower price and sells them to people who need them - I buy high end camera lenses here, and sometimes pass them to friends of mine, or friends of friends. We are sometimes talking about a 100% higher price elsewhere in these cases, but I'm still not bothered to pursue it as a business with all the hassle of being a salesman.
Cheers,
Sale
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You think 10-30 % markups are crazy? 10% barely pays for the rent and other expenses of having a warehouse, so that is the minimum of breaking even with the expenses - if you do it as charity and have no hired staff.
You say you got your magazines for a wholesale price of 88 USD each, correct? If HK shops were to sell the magazines below 100 USD, they would push their wholesale customers into the ground. If you had a shop, would you like to have your supplier compete with your prices? It's a competition you could never win.
-Sale
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I'm not a fluid dynamics expert, but I would say it doesn't matter. The problem with a too tight barrel stems from the fact that a light BB is spinning at a high rate and moving forward in the barrel. Too much contact area between the BB and barrel bore can easily disturb the spin.
Real Sword SVD
in Rifles (AEG)
Posted
The manual shows how to get to it, and beyond that there's nothing specific that you should know. Just the basic things when disassembling any gearbox will get you through the job easily. The good fit between Real Sword part helps greatly with the disassembly and assembly process.