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Everything posted by neros131

  1. I love my WE SCAR-L, but it does have some issues. My hinge plate hasn't cracked (put some Mole Skin on the end of the guide rod), but my stock has completely broken. The tab on the locking mechanism broke, so I have to use it folded now. Also the internals of the stock seem to have shredded themselves, leaving me with a stock that I have to use in the shortest position possible. I am trying to have Airsoft Extreme rectify these problems, but as always their customer service is lacking. Hope everyone is having good experiences with these replicas! They are great for the money, but not wit
  2. I picked up one of the new(ish) Tokyo Marui HiCapa 4.3 Xtremes the other day, and have just finished some light mods. More are coming, though are not installed yet. So far the list of mods is simply a slide and a tightbore, along with valves in the magazines. I have a steel outer barrel on the way, and am considering a different texture on the drip. I would love to pick up some tritium sights for it, but haven't made a decision on that yet.
  3. Worst case scenario is I just pick a longer low-profile gas block to cover the second pin. Not a big deal to me. The S-Mags are so much cheaper, though! But you are right, the bolt stop is half the fun, and giving that up would be lame.
  4. I have most of my build decided on as of now. Daniel Defense Omega 10" or POF P9X (leaning towards the POF) Magpul MIAD Magpul CTR Tango Down Short Vertical Grip Daniel Defense Low Profile Gas block Knock-Off Docter Sight RA-Tech Hop Up RA-Tech Bolt Stop RA-Tech hammer PDI 210mm 6.01 Barrel The only think left for me to really decide on is whether to base it off the WA M4A1 or Delta M4A1. I don't plan on buying a new body anytime soon, so I am trying to decide if it is worth paying the extra for the trades. Also, I know it has been asked to death, but does anyo
  5. Well, now I am torn. Should I save some money and get the WA Delta M4A1, or go with my original plan and get a regular M4A1? Oh noes, decisions! The horror! Has anyone taken the plunge and ordered the "Delta" version?
  6. Does anyone even know when they will be officially released? I am probably going to stick with the stock body and get a RA-Tech hop up and bolt stop. I was just going to buy some of the "S-Type" magazines, even though they don't have a bolt stop. I can worry about super-fly bodies later, I want it working with a full set of magazines first.
  7. So, in other words, not worth the minor price decrease. And it is minor, only $100. by the time it is in the us (whether shipped or retail), it will be $500 anyways. Might as well pop the extra $100.
  8. Has anyone heard anything about the non-trademarked "Delta" WA M4 series? I am interested in them since they are so much cheaper as a base. Anyone got any info on them?
  9. How are you liking the Type 56-1?
  10. Don't get me wrong, it looks awesome! I was just saying, from a purely realistic standpoint I think it would fade.
  11. Wouldn't the sun fade the paint, not make it darker? Or did I miss something?
  12. Hahaha, glad to hear it! I was going to try to find some other bits to throw on, but I like it how it is. The only things that I can think of are a new MSH with a recessed lanyard loop, maybe a new trigger. Other than that, I am leaving it alone. Even those upgrades are only tentative.
  13. Fair enough. I hope he isn't going to die from humiliation...
  14. Such a grilling. Let the poor kid go, he was just talking about something he clearly had no real knowledge of!
  15. I did use a Scotch-Brite pad. The dimples themselves aren't worn, the lips is. If you think about it, the lip is more likely to be worn than the flat areas since it is a edge. Now, if the actual recessed area was worn, that would be odd. The mount is worn, but you are right about it needing more. Scotch-Brite, here I come! Pictures I used for reference: Go buy some cheapo Scotch-Brite pads. They work better than sandpaper or steel wool, and work more slowly so that you can control the wear more. Read Guinness' guide about weathering metal, and find tons of
  16. Awesome. I have a broken GB in the CA G36C, but I was looking at a used TM G36C. I wanted to put the CA body on the used TM.
  17. So, are TM and CA bodies compatible?
  18. Scotch-Brite pads reaklly are the way to go. It looks more even and less like sand paper, and it is way more controllable since it takes longer to do the wear. Much more reasonable to use, and way cheaper. I think all of mine to weather my AK were $2 (US). What brand is that AK? Looks like Real Sword to me, but I could be wrong.
  19. Quick G36 noob question: I have a broken G36C (brothers). The selector and GB are fubar'd completely. If I bought a used TM G36, could I just drop the internals in? Or a new TM compatible GB? My main question is whether TM and CA bodies are interchangeable.
  20. It is part of their charm. For those Type 56 owners, do you prefer the solid or folding stock? What are they like? I am shopping for one in the coming weeks...
  21. Is that an Inokatsu kit? I am trying to decide whether I want a Real Sword Type 56, a VFC AIMS or a RMW AIMS.
  22. That is a pretty hot AK-47. What makes it African specifically?
  23. Hahahaha, AKs really look unnatural without some weathering. Yours looks just right, and the GP-30 looks pretty hot, too. I really want to grab a GP-30 from my local Airsoft place, but I think that my Real Sword Type 56 is going to come first. This is going to happen in a few weeks, I just bought a whole bunch of new gear. I can guarantee that once I get it, the wood and body are getting aged and weathered!
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