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ChrisWPA

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Posts posted by ChrisWPA

  1. If I were you, I would put a flash in a plastic bag (if I were ACTUALLY you id put it in like 3 bags JUST to make sure hahahah), and I would drop it in the tank so its bouncing off of the back (if your back has a mat).

     

    Then I would put a flash at the top facing towards the fish, and use a CIRCULAR POLARIZER to cut out the glare, and take the pic on like f1.8-f2.8 iso 200.

     

    Thats just coming from someone that has never done that type of photography though, so I mean I could be wrong but thats where I would start. And adjust it from there.

  2. Not to sound like a massive *bramston pickle* but;

     

    Does this not sound a tadge elitist here? It's like saying "Don't buy a Ford, buy a BMW instead". Seriously, come off your high horse for a minute, and consider prehaps some great shots were taken on cheap camera's.

     

    Anyway, London shot taken from Southbank, ISO was messed a little, hence the "noise" in the sky;

     

     

    Some awesome pics came from cheap cameras, yes, but find a professional shot taken with a cheap setup of flying airplanes, or anything far away, even at night!

     

    To get good shots at night, far away, macro, etc....you need a good camera. I am not saying you need a $2,000-$5,000+ setup though.

     

    Your "dont buy a ford, buy a bmw instead" statement proves my point, a ford and a bmw will both get you to the same place (both get a picture), but the bmws interior will be extremely well made, the car will be built better, and it will be a more pleasurable ride (better detailed pic, less iso, higher quality, more options for printing, more professional).

     

    So if you do not have the $ to get into photography but you love it, go ahead and buy the best camera that suits your budget because photography is a great hobby and you dont need to spend thousands to have fun. But if you want to have professional pictures and make large prints or sell, then dont expect a $200 lens to do the trick.

  3. Thats a tamron, the Sigma 70-200 f2.8 is this.

     

    http://www.adorama.com/SG70200DNKAF.html

     

     

     

    Your pictures will be professional quality, Thats what I used for an air show and it worked great, if went to air shows more often I would just get a 400mm or 500mm but since I rarely do the 70-200 was perfect.

     

    And it will be a thousand times better then that nikon, which is going to be horrible in low light and quality wont be the best at all. But if reach is the most important thing and you dont mind having a average quality picture, then the Nikon would be the route to go.

  4. if you only shoot raw it wont make a spec of difference other than actually slow your continuous shooting mode.

     

    Wow thanks for the tip, I never knew that! Just the D300 and on the D40 I never used active D lighting, so I am very new to active D lighting. I shoot in raw 24/7 so I guess theres no point in having it on:D

  5. Nope most camera manuals wouldnt have it due to the fact that most kit lens dont come with VR untill you get into the higher end cameras. Plus its more of a lens based feature, has nothing to do with the camera body.

     

    If you wanna buy a "For dummies" camera specific book, I think it woudl help you ALOT...when I was getting use to my Nikon D40 I bought the book and read it about 5 times and it was litearlly majority of the reason why I learned so fast, so you could buy the Nikon D5000 one! Only $20-$30 and its VERY worth it!

     

     

     

     

     

    OR if you wanna save money you can just ask me and Trasher, we both can help you out greatly.

  6. The sport mode will completely freeze the subject so put it on "S" for shutter priority, then you ONLY have to change the shutter speed, and I know for a fact 1/125th, 1/200th, or 1/250th....will be the best settings for that.

     

    So just remember those 3, take pics with each (1/200th will probably be the best), and zoom in on the picture after yout ake it and make sure the planes fully sharp, but the propeller(sp) is a tad bit blurry like the pics above :D

  7. Iso 400 (or 800) noise is hardly visible in daytime even on the cheaper DSLRs unless you are pixel peeping.

    And it's real easy to noise filter the sky - like you did it on your pics. :)

     

    Low aperture will not work if he has AF/lens issues.

    .

     

    Well I am just guessing he has something like a d40, d3000, or something similar to those, which actually do have noticable noise at 800. Plus in daylight ISO 200 + slow shutter speed = will still give you an aperture around f11-f16 usually. So no use getting the aperture higher then that.

     

    And I actually didnt use a noise filter, those were shot at ISO200, was bright as hell that day! I went home as red as a lobster cuz of the sun LOL :P

     

     

     

     

    Oh and just to throw this out, try putting active D lighting on, and I highly suggest shooting in RAW if you arnt alraedy!

  8. High iso and low aperture for shutter speed.

    Continous shooting mode, tracking focus (if your camera can handle it).

    Panning shots.

    For rotor/propeller driven aircraft: low shutter speeds and panning (like 1/250 to keep the blades blurry).

     

    Exaclty but a high iso and low aperture rarely work unless its really dark, plus ISO looks bad on skys.

     

    So I suggest putting your camera on shutter priority mode (P), with an iso on 200 or less. The shutter speed should be around the 1/250th range but you can speed it upor slow it down if you need depending on how pics are turning out so dont be afraid to test things out.

     

    Put camera on continous shooting mode for sure, it helps alot, just hold in the shutter release halfway and when you wanna shoot the pic just click!

     

    :) Have fun!

     

    3787001664_f29a1e1824.jpg

     

    3786198517_4559cc2285.jpg

     

    3786112395_4a45b9bb7a.jpg

     

     

    Just a few from when I went to an air show.

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