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renegadecow

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Everything posted by renegadecow

  1. renegadecow

    AK & Variants Picture Thread

    HAY GUYS! I has AK too. Can I join?
  2. As some of you already surmise, I sold my dignity and purchased something from Cybergun. As the only Tommy GBBR I felt my wallet cornered though to be fair this is not my first CG purchase as I also got the WE/CG Desert Eagle last year so you could say I didn't have any self respect in the first place. So with that, on to the review. The gun is a truly open bolt submachine gun with select fire capability doing about 330fps (30C) at around 850rpm. When out of bbs the bolt locks to the rear until a loaded magazine is inserted and the charging handle pulled back. It is full metal with the major parts (barrel, receiver) in aluminum anodized in a beautiful parkerized look, however it's worth noting that all Thompson SMGs from 1928s to M1A1s left the factories in a blued or du-lite finish. Parkerization was done at the US armorer level and only when returned guns needed refinishing so completely parkerized guns were rarely ever seen until after WW2. The internals are a cast zinc alloy however the sear and bolt have steel reinforcement inserts where they engage against each other for better wear resistance. It has faux wood furniture in ABS plastic and while visually appealing, has a very hollow sound and feel to it especially when the rear sling swivel rattles about. You could, I suppose, fill the plastic with expanding foam or even body filler/bondo to make it more solid and add some heft as the total weight of the gun with the supplied 50 round magazine (30 in real life) only tips the scale at about 2.8kg. Because of this I've changed the furniture out with real walnut by Black Owl Gear. They are the cheapest commercial kit available though need to have the screw holes drilled out first. They go on without modification however the handguard does not sit completely flat against the barrel and will require some sanding to get it really squared on. Speaking of sanding, the kit is roughly finished giving it a very plain and uniform look. I've refinished mine by sanding it down to 400 grit, re-staining in walnut and coating with a couple coats of clear lacquer for water proofing. Installed, the kit adds about 500g and while still over a kilogram short of the real gun's weight, gives it a much more solid, confident feel to it. There are steel kits available now which brings the gun to true weight however they cost over $900 Before: After: Internally it has a 270mm inner barrel and of the modified VSR-10 kind which is to say if you plan on changing either the barrel or hop rubber, you have to swap out both. It doesn't shoot bad considering it is a submachine gun, but I did have to correct the crown which was a bit eccentric and was causing turbulence at the muzzle affecting group size. With that sorted it groups within an A4 size sheet of paper at 20m. The sound when firing is fairly loud, but a little different from other GBBRs in that it's oddly similar to a branch breaking. Recoil is very satisfying as the bolt is heavy and traveling at full stroke so it gets a lot of momentum. Because of this, firing in semi-auto accurately needs a bit of practice and I find shooting it in the prescribed old school method (bladed stance, chicken wing) works best. The hop adjustment dial can be a bit loose however and may require tightening using tape or a thin layer of super glue to keep it from walking out of setting. Also because of the massive bolt, gas consumption and cool down are against it. With moderately paced semi-auto fire, a fully gassed 50 round magazine will shoot enough for 70-80 bbs worth which may seem a lot but it holds a lot of gas to begin with and even just going through 50 rounds it already gets very cold. Now, with the basic information done, and having had this for a couple months and working on other units even earlier than I bought mine, below will cover a list of manufacturing problems, as one would expect from WE, and how to address them. Barrel wobble The barrel and receiver assembly does not copy TM's AEG design but of Hudson's PFC design which is very close to real steel. The handguard metal is screwed to the barrel and both are socketed into the receiver and a screw at the bottom goes through all three pieces sandwiching them together. This is a very solid design, however WE has some production issues such that the screw installed is way too short. It only really engages the barrel by two turns and it doesn't take a lot of rounds for the threads to get mangled and the assembly starts to wobble. To fix this, it's highly recommended to replace the screw with a longer one right out of the box: flat head, socketed, M5x18mm. For an even tighter barrel to receiver fit, you can glue a strip of aluminum to the receiver acting as a shim much like how you would address barrel wobble on the WE G36 (G39). I used aluminum from a soda can and folded it over making it 0.3mm thick and about 20mm wide long enough to make a letter "C" around barrel. Nozzle breakage Some units have experience having their nozzle break in two and I found it to be the cause of a short and loose pin. The front and rear section of the nozzle is connected by a pin which, again, with production issues is shorter than it should be. The pin walks out from recoil and because it's short, one side eventually becomes unsupported and the protruding part of the pin hits an area on the receiver which eventually breaks the nozzle. A good solution is to replace the pin altogether with one that covers the full width of the nozzle and preferably from high carbon spring steel. If you can't find/make a pin, you could also just super glue the original pin in place so it doesn't walk out. Also be observant of the pin every so often, checking to see if it's walking out. Bolt wear Even with just a couple mags through, many have complained about excessive bolt wear on its underside. You can clearly see the scratch marks and in the worst cases the lower receiver is littered with metal shavings. The cause of this, ironically, are the steel reinforcing inserts WE put on the sear. The edges of the inserts are very sharp and work the bolt like a chisel. To fix this you simply have to dull the edges of the inserts with fine grit sandpaper (800 and up). Bolt wear shown only after a few mags for testing, but has not progressed after seeing 1.5-2k rounds after being fixed Dulled edges of sear inserts. You can barely see the difference but I put roughly a 0.12mm radius on the edges. Receiver wobble While this isn't much of a problem on its own, many have complained about it so I've devised an easy way to address it. Using a wide rounded punch, I hammered a dimple into the upper receiver rails near the opposite ends so that the displaced metal creates a hump. This acts as a spacer to tighten the engagement between lower and upper receiver. You don't have to hit too hard, just repeated light taps will do until the desired tightness is met. Shown are one set of dimples on each side but I later added an extra set of dimples next to the first ones. Double feed This problem doesn't happen very often but is a pain when it does as the extra bb doesn't always go down the chamber and instead lodges itself between the bolt and barrel causing a jam. I've rooted the problem down to fairly loose feed lips and to fix them I simply heated the feed lips and clamped them to the right width until cool. I used a heat gun, making sure to rotate the mag constantly to heat the lips evenly. When you see the edges of the plastic begin to get shiny, that's hot enough. I then clamped the lips down with a vise grip pre-measured at 12mm and blew on it until it cooled down.
  3. renegadecow

    WE/Cybergun M1A1 Thompson Submachine Gun

    Thanks. I use a metal rod as a mandrel with a vise grip holding one end of the spring and a flat piece of PVC with sized holes and a screw on the edge as a wire guide. I turn it by hand, going slowly to make sure the coils get the proper tension and negative angle so they're compressed tightly against each other. After the needed number of coils is reached I reverse is slowly to ease off tension then cut the ends. For compression springs I stretch it out by hand, sometimes using a rod or screwdriver shaft as a spacer towards the ends then temper.
  4. renegadecow

    Glock laser hop unit

    Kinda like what I did on my SAA only it really was just a .38 cartridge bore sighter. With the end cap turned just a hair from turning on, the pressure from a shot is enough to activate it. Wasn't really useful as the dot was on for just a split second. If you design yours to be a whole barrel assembly (non tilting for simplicity) you can probably cram in some circuitry for a delay to keep the dot on long enough to be easily noticeable.
  5. renegadecow

    Chiappa Firearms Rhino

    I exchanged messages with someone who bought one of those. Was told it was totally not worth it, rough machining everywhere and barely serviceable. It's just that he really, really had to get a Rhino replica being unable to buy the real thing.
  6. renegadecow

    LCT Conversion Kits, Where Did They Go?

    Or they figured they'd make more money selling parts individually? The whole kits have all but dried out but there's been a steady flow of parts at WGC and Tiger111 from what I'm seeing. You can still make most of what you'll get in a kit but have to pay a lot more.
  7. renegadecow

    LCT Conversion Kits, Where Did They Go?

    I think they stopped producing them because it sorts of admits that their internals are whack.
  8. renegadecow

    WE/Cybergun M1A1 Thompson Submachine Gun

    So I tried lowering my ROF today by making a new spring instead of cutting coils. New one on top just shorter by 3-4 coils, but made of 0.8mm wire vs 1.0mm on the original. ROF dropped to 660rpm and so did muzzle velocity to around 300fps, but I also encountered occasional light strikes and a very strange condition where it would consistently disconnect the sear in full auto making it fire in semi unless I put forward and upward pressure on the handguard while firing. I put the original spring back and it was shooting normally although the magazine valve got stuck forward. Opening the valve apparently the brass housing isn't one piece like the usual. Inside it is a separate brass ring that's press fitted which can get stuck forward causing the valve stem to stay open.
  9. renegadecow

    King Arms Colt Single Action

    Couldn't rip the images on my phone so just took a screenshot. She'll eject, gas powered, full metal in cavalry and civilian lengths. Checking the King Arms page it looks to be a direct copy of Marushin from how the frame is a 2 piece design down to the shells. If that's the case don't expect too much performance out of them as the most I could squeeze out of my 4 3/4" Marushins is about 270fps and hop up I had to put in myself.
  10. renegadecow

    King Arms Colt Single Action

    Anyone got theirs yet? There's a more favorable review on reddit doing 300fps and holding gas for 60+ shots. My old Marushins will do about 24 and that's with the tank already modified to hold more liquid.
  11. renegadecow

    WE G - series accessory

    To be fair, most cameras will auto adjust volume so they'll end up sounding similar. After messing with loudeners more than any grown man would admit, I'm fairly sure these designs will make muzzle noise a lot more obnoxious.
  12. renegadecow

    Chiappa Firearms Rhino

    Chiappa says the one in the pic is .177 but a 6mm will be made available too.
  13. renegadecow

    WE TA 2015, P90 review

    There's the possibility that the sear or disconnector is beginning to conk out. I remember mine doing that until I eventually replaced it with a steel set.
  14. renegadecow

    WE TA 2015, P90 review

    That won't work. #17 is the semi auto sear and is pushed back far enough to clear the hammer in semi and full. What happens in full auto is #20 disconnector is also pushed back so it won't catch the hammer. Removing the protrusion on #24 that pushes #20 will keep it firing in semi-auto no matter how deeply you pull the trigger. But it would be easier to just add material to the selector so that semi and full limits trigger pull to the same distance and is easily reversed.
  15. If you raise the front sight as well then it shouldn't make a difference but it looks like the front post would be level with the protective ears at that point. My bad on the open vs bridged hole. Seemed bridged like a normal RSB to me at first glance but if you get it printed in metal it should hold, just don't put a very stiff spring under it I guess.
  16. renegadecow

    Chiappa Firearms Rhino

    Probably metal and from the looks of it, might be OEM by Win Gun.
  17. renegadecow

    Chiappa Firearms Rhino

    Link's to their FB post
  18. I'd put a bridge on that slot instead of making it an open hook for durability. Also, doesn't that mess with the BDC with the whole sight effectively raised?
  19. renegadecow

    WE Desert Eagle (Licensed by Cybergun)

    Posted at a local FB page. Seems the barrel breaking isn't an isolated case anymore.
  20. renegadecow

    Custom Gear

  21. renegadecow

    WE G3

    You're forgetting this goes through Umarex so there's a good chunk of legal fees padding that up.
  22. renegadecow

    HFC CO2 Flintlock pistol finally coming out

    Seems a bit much coming from HFC and it's not even real wood.
  23. renegadecow

    9mm AR GBBR’s?

    An aluminum bolt should have as much mass as a zinc slide so it should perform similarly. But the felt recoil would be a lot less than the lighter glock carbine kits already out. Unless they make an all polymer receiver too.
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