Jump to content

renegadecow

Forum guru
  • Content Count

    8,796
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    273

Everything posted by renegadecow

  1. FINALLY!!! I'm tired of people here doing completely unscientific tests. *I can hit a coconut real far aways* And yet another exploding magazine? Is this happening more and more frequently or are people just reporting their incidents as they gain confidence in numbers? USA -1 UK -1 Thailand -1 Philippines -1
  2. Ooookay. So the official count of exploding magazines is 3. One in Thailand, one in the Philippines and now another in the USA, all due to high temp. Keep out of the sun boys.
  3. I dunno, the 1 o-ring steel nozzle I have on is working great since I got it about a month ago. It just might be something else, or the tolerances between steel nozzles vary. Anyone care to whip out calipers and compare dimensions?
  4. On semi (28°C, full charge propane, .25g ICS bbs) mine read a first shot 420+fps, followed by 410, then around 4~5 more shots after were lingering at 390fps.
  5. 12 gram, the ones that cost about $1 ea, half that in some places and if in bulk. You and another guy (can't remember who exactly). Looks to be an isolated case. Find a mate with a working M4 and swap parts with him to see exactly what part in your gun is doing the damage. On the bright side, at least you're not the guy who's magazine exploded. I've counted two globally (disregarding the guy who pumped CO2 in his) one in Thailand and one here in the Philippines, only the guy here had it on his vest when it blew up.
  6. I counted 45 shots on the CO2 mag. Not bad considering how little those capsules hold. I'm only guessing the 350ish tuned valve would have more shots worth.
  7. Suffice to say that oxygen biodegradable also means "can be oxidized" much like how iron turns to rust (ferric oxide). The usual bio-bbs afaik are moisture biodegradable hence why they get deformed when accidentally made wet. How fast these new bbs actually degrade would be entirely dependent on what they're made of. Technically speaking though, even the typical non-bio bbs that are made of plastic can also degrade but through photodegradation (non bio) but takes really long. Are you just getting a "click" after pulling the trigger? Your valve knocker (#61) might not be resetting ful
  8. He probably requires it as proof since people could just 'shop photos of broken parts and demand free replacements. But still, its highly likely it was broken as it was being packed and they didn't inspect their goods too well again (remember that heavily used and rusted up M4 someone received from AB not too long ago?) so AB should fork up and compensate being that it was their fault. I can't see why it would cost that much just to ship an upper out though. Maybe you could send it to someone who could have it shipped for much less, like ship it from France or something. $80 could have yo
  9. Not very good if you have the V1 barrel and hop and not using heavy bbs. Shots overhop too much even if set to zero so even if the lateral spread isn't large, your bbs either hit your target or the sky. With very heavy bbs and upgrades way past anybody's safety limits (I know two guys locally who have upgraded their rifles to 600+fps and this is using .40g bbs) they get man sized hits a little past 60m. On mine (400fps on .25g) and with my redesigned V1 hop rubber, I can punch through a 12" circle at 40m easy, but on semi only. Full auto about doubles the spread at that distance
  10. I know the cheapo (Guarder I think) reflex rds I got for under $30 works fine on recoil. It doesn't hold zero when removing and remounting though. Its this one, which I made a Meprolight housing/lens cover for. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...howtopic=166021
  11. Man, I could barely chew through that many rounds in 3 months. Does the hop rubber still seem to like to eat itself ie disposable hop rubber where you need to tighten it up a bit after every few hundred rounds? I've gone through about 1500 on the hot glue hop rubber and its not shown any sign of wear after visual inspection.
  12. To all who requested a sample redesigned V1 hop up rubber, I've sent them out today so expect them to arrive around a week. If all goes well with your units, it would seem to be a very economical solution for fixing V1 barrels.
  13. Excellent review. But my wallet now hates you.
  14. Didn't really mod the existing rubber but replaced it. Tutorial over here, but again, if you just want one, shoot me a PM. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...411&st=3820
  15. In the interest of scientific testing, if anyone wants to try out the new (for the old version) hop rubber that I designed a few dozen pages back, you could PM me your address and I'll mail you a copy for free. Its pretty much solved ALL my hop problems for the past few weeks I've been using it. On rolling bbs, cleaning my rifle regularly does the trick so I never thought of making a new #117, but I suppose I could dabble on it a bit.
  16. Coco has pretty much explained it all. That's the exact same spot where I found the bb to sit in when I took mine apart. Even though the bb clearly goes past the ridge meant for sealing the nozzle, there's still some material left to hold on to (circled in red). In saying ammo choice when regards to shattered bbs, I meant how brittle they were. I initially used unbranded (we call them generic and probably from China) .25's which actually fly great and work in all of my guns except my N4. It would consistently chop/shatter bbs at a rate of 1 in every 20. I tried squeezing them in a pair
  17. Shredding bbs is caused by poor ammo choice. ICS .25 works perfectly with mine. And for loss in power, see if you damaged the rubber seal (again mentioning part #177). I had a good chunk of bb shrapnel lodged in mine when I was using cheap shreddable ammo.
  18. Just a short bit on #117 (rubber chamber doohickey). I manually chambered a bb and had the bolt close on full force. Then I disassembled the front bits to get to the barrel and I found that the bb was in fact sitting in #117, and not held back by the hop rubber. I've only really noticed bbs to roll out and slip when I inject my mags with some green gas to lube things up a bit, unfortunately part #117 included. But after a couple dozen shots of propane (or just wiping the barrel down with tissue paper, the rolling stops.
  19. Judging from the pics alone, those look like tuned down nozzles that actually shoot at 300fps. The ones that were released previously had the valve a bit more towards the middle and shoot 400fps. edit Wait, what magwell/lower receiver is that in the bg?!? A used one maybe. New ones still fetch a little over a thousand, about the price of an Inokatsu M4 GBB (now those are ridiculous).
  20. A friend of mine opened up his WA mag to find a complex structure inside to prevent liquid gas from pooling at the valve even when upside down. He can shoot his M4 upside down. But it does cool down quicker than the WE even when right side up.
  21. I got one too and as with yours, mine would get stuck anywhere along the way unless you nudge it forwards. But after some oil and a couple dozen cycles (ok, maybe a dozen dozens) it worked smoothly. I especially like the fact that there is almost no slack from when the latch is locked forwards and has minimal twist when completely retracted. Admittedly real ones are cheaper, if you could get them but they're only made of extruded aluminum. More expensive machined aluminum ones exist and even steel versions which cost a little more rivaling the price tag on the airsoft-only part.
  22. I hadn't thought about having the outer corners radiused, no doubt Cocofr69's design would be even stronger. Anyhow, I'm done with the prototype (without radius corners yet). I used 1mm thick 304 grade stainless steel and now my shoulders are complaining from lack of decent machining tools. Works ok though I've only shot 3 mags through it since this morning. Will report back on the weekend.
  23. To everyone with a broken part #59: I've been pouring my brains out on how such a simple part would break ever since Rottenotto's had broken some time ago. Mine broke just last Sunday (although surprisingly, it didn't affect performance not one bit) and since I'm not one to pay $11 shipping for a $1.50 part, I gave it some more brain juice. I've come to the conclusion that the part is flawed in its design. Because the prongs are split all the way to the top and cut at sharp, right angles at the corners, the force exerted by the hammer becomes rotational which is why they start splitting
  24. I haven't encountered anyone doing that combination so I'm only guessing here but probably closer to 300. The redesigned #42 would be the brass one while the second one is of the original design but made out of steel. Its hard to tell if the #39 is the original or not as the length of the threaded end would be the only real indicator. I don't think they sell them separately though so that may be the original replacement one in your link.
  25. Updating my DIY ver.1 hop-rubber results: (took a while as I had to wait for replacement parts from AB then I had to get my PC replaced) It shoots a 12" circle at 40m, no wind at about 400fps on .25g bbs. It seems copying the Tanaka hop profile (inverted "u") did the trick. Oh, and no more over hops. At 1/2 turn of the dial it flies real straight all the way to 35~40m then drops. More than that and it starts arcing a little over the line of sight before dropping. At 0~1/4 turn it just drops to the ground as the hop effect is completely turned off. Also, about the discrepancy betwee
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.