Horsem4n
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Everything posted by Horsem4n
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Hmm, shame. I've seen some people add metal pipe under the top receiver tube. They drill out the plastic and put a tube/rod in there. Keeps you from using the charging handle, but you need to remove the bolt plate to do it properly so you can still access hop adjustment.
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That's actually very nice. How's the barrel wobble on JG G3s?
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Yeah, I got mine from kic for about $200 shipped with everything in my pic. Last I checked, they still had them in stock. 8in, 13in, and a carbine model.
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Bit wobbly on lock up, but shoots strong, accurate (no hop), and consistent. Simple mech, seems reliable, good o'rings. If you can figure out a way to add a hop, and stabilize the lock up, it's a viable sidearm as long as you can get past the single shot thing.
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The shells for the wa shan clone can take multiple BBs. Just ask KIC for them.
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I put a friends scope on my t64 to see how it looked. I'm saving up for a niceish one.
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Well, increasing pressure on the stock bucking will only take you so far. Best just to chuck it and get something with a proper hardness, make a flat nub, and put a custom patch in the barrel. Proper flat hop and you can get range with the best of them. But I guess making a bigger nub can help temporarily. But yes, I totally agree with putting a bigger o'ring in that slot, the adjuster would be a little more stable. PS, I took a few pics with a friends scope. Not my choice of rings, but it's not half bad. Like if the PSG1 was 20 years older. if I can get photobucket to work on my
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lol, i'm not really asking questions. it's not really accuracy i'm looking to gain but range with heavy BBs. but i got the hopup apart and looked at it. here's the hop, top and bottom. the adjustment system is similar to a G36, but with an even smaller adjustment spacer. the hopup bucking appears silicone, a little harder than the transparent blue ones you find in a lot of ARES/S&T guns, but not quite as hard as any normal stock bucking and not quite molded very well with ann that flash still hanging out. the barrel window is nice and big and square, so i can make a good size fl
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I'm totally aware of the mounts that S&T make. I'm considering picking up the handguard rail, but the high profile scope rail looks bad. I want the m14 mount because it's low profile. I just hate guns that look too tall or attachments that look aloof and not a solid part of the rifle. About the internals, I wouldn't worry about tolarances so much that you take a micrometer or caliper to parts. Except for the nozzles length, I'm sure most aftermarket air seal parts and gear sets will work for the gun just fine. I plan on my normal combo of air pad, SHS piston, simple MOSFET, high torq
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So, I had an m14 on hand for a tune up and was looking as the side of the receiver and the grooves and screw hole on the side of the receiver for scope mounts on both rifles match up pretty well. An m14 scope mount would be pretty low profile on a t64 and look good with a scope. Of course I'll probably have to chop some rail off the front of the mount as it may interfere with the charging handle. And of course it's going to keep me from adjusting the hopup while the scope mount is attached, but the rifle will look good, so I don't care. Removing a thumb screw to adjust the hopup doesn't b
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Yeah, locking the mag in takes some training. I have a plan to build a ramp in the back of the magwell to shute the mag in the correct position without having to consciously push the mag forward as you rock it back. I made more minor fixes to otherwise poorly fited parts. I shimmed the sights with tape and deepened the detent notches on the front sight so they lock open and closed more pisitvely and wobble less. I filed down the base for the selector so the selector sits closer to the receiver, eliminating the wobble and allowing the selector to more positively find its positions. Al
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I found that they were very close to m14 mags, but not close enough. After significant modification to an m14 midcap, I still couldn't get it to fit. About a centimeter too long and the feed port is a few millimeters too close to the back of the mag.
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There's not much you can do with t64s except decals and muzzle devices. I don't have any muzzle device plans, but that doesn't mean I don't have plans for the gun. Beyond that I just plan on getting the internals beefed up. For those that didn't look at my other thread, the bright screws you see are 6/32 thumb nuts. I replaced the screws and pin for take down with 6/32 bolts and thumb nuts. I had to drill out the screw and pin holes to fit the 6/32 threaded bolts. With it set up this way, if my barrel gets jammed I can take down the gun with no tools.
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A special sticker for a special rifle
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I actually don't know why either flip up (they are both foldable) as the scope rail (m14 style attachment) sits high enough to still be able to use the iron sights. The scope rail is very ugly so I didn't buy it.
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I got around to replacing the hardware for the tooless takedown. Got some sexy brass bolts and thumb nuts. Also, how would you guys recommend re finishing the wood? How do they have the real t64s finished? I got a special sticker for it, but I want to re finish the wood first before applying it.
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The mags on the t64s are slightly smaller than m14 mags. The real ones are supposed to use modified FAL mags. I'm currently messing with my t64. I'll post pics when it's done or before I sell it.
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It's held on by 2 pins. I could post the pic I took while messing with it, but I'm too lazy right now. But, the barrel is hollow. The ribs on top and bottom of the barrel are not solid. Best way to do it is chop a center section out and either glue, weld, or braze the muzzle and breach ends of the barrel back together.
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Someone model a barrel and stick it up on shapeways or something. I don't mind a plastic one. Currently trying to think of a way to improve the hopup. Mine applies hop at an angle. Thinking of doing away with the stock inner barrel. It's still aluminum like the other WG guns, but it's got a nicer polish.
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I've only shot it for chrono readings so far. I haven't set up a run and gun course for it yet. Brigg told me he's having lots of fun with it in scrimmages. He made me and himself holsters and jet loader carriers for them.
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Something I noticed about mine. I have an American low power version. With .25g bbs the fps is stable around 300 to 310 over 18 rounds. But, the fps changes when you cock the hammer. With the hammer cocked, it falls from a further back position compared to releasing the hammer in double action mode. Now, you may expect it to shoot harder, but in fact I loose 50 fps in single action. The fps on single action using .25g bbs is from 250 to 260 over the same number of rounds. I even tried it on a fresh co2, alternating between single and double action from shot to shot and it was the same. All
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You can try aftermarket hop chambers. WE 1911s are actually decently TM compatible. I know parts of the frame aren't (causing proprietary mags) and the BBU on some of them are a little different, but you should be able to replace the chamber and outer barrel with something decent enough not to jam like that.
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I'd buy that
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So, I decided to visit the tools required takedown anyway. I drilled out the screw holes and front pin hole for 6/32 bolts. They are currently fastened with basic hardware, but I plan on replacing them with more attractive thumb screws soon. This way I can take down the gun for emergency unjamming in the field.
