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Stealthbomber

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Posts posted by Stealthbomber

  1. ...outside face of the handle rests against the little rubber bump stop thats fitted in the upper.

     

    Well...

     

    Dare I ask, does your AGM M4 have a bump stop inserted in the upper?

    Mine doesn't.

  2. bolt face doesnt get to ground out against the extension

     

    e.g. drop a bolt carrier group into the upper without a charging handle in there and the bolt will seat around 0.7mm deeper into the extension than it will with the charging handle in place. The fake gas key on top of the carrier bottoms out against the inside face of the charging handle first

     

    likwise remove the bolt from the bolt carrier and drop the bolt down into the upper on its own, when pressed fully home into the extension it'll go another mil or so deeper again

     

    so between the bolt carrier itself and the gas key on top of it, the bolt face is around 1.5mm or so away from being fully home/grounding against the barrel extension

    Erm, okay...

     

    I was actually talking about whether the bolt carrier hits against the outer edge of the barrel extension.

    I must admit, I dunno if the tab on the end of the charging handle is what takes the impact instead though.

  3. I didn't know the stock "thing that whizzes back and forth" was plastic.

    Erm, hang on...

     

    I said the bolt was the plastic part. That's the thing you get (in aluminium IIRC) for $160

     

    For $250 you get the bolt AND blot carrier. The stock bolt carrier isn't plastic. It's pot metal with a tiny steel insert where the bolt catch is supposed to lock it.

    The RATech bolt carrier is, I think, Steel.

     

    I'm thinking the upper receiver might break in the long run with the metal bolt face returining to battery with so much energy behind it.

    That's an interesting point.

     

    I wonder if the built-in "barrel extension" in the AGM gun actually causes the bolt assembly to come to a stop more forcefully than in the original design. Could this be what's causing the cracks people see in the back of their bolts rather than them being caused by green gas?

  4. What are the differences between the $150 assembly and the $260 full assembly? That $110 difference is looking good.

    $150 buys you the bolt - the part that's plastic on the AGM gun.

    $260 buys you the bolt and the bolt carrier. That's the whole thing that whizzes backwards and forwards.

     

    On green gas your bolt carrier takes quite a hammering (especially if the bolt catch works) and a replacement bolt carrier will cost you $100 at least. A steel one from RA-tech will cost $130.

     

    Perhaps it's prudent to buy the whole lot at the same time and receive it all pre-assembled and ready to go?

  5. Just to input something I've found when asked to "fix" an AGM M4 (I've searched and it hasn't been addressed):

    I was able to fix the forward assist by simply stretching out the spring underneath the ratchet arm. It was squashed up and making the arm sit too low, barely making contact with the notches on the bolt carrier.

    Mine is currently in bits again while I repaint the receiver and I took a look at the f/a at the same time.

    I agree about the spring but I also think the casting of the part that locks into the ratchet is a bit soft and rounded.

    As well as replacing the spring I'm going to try and sharpen the front edge slightly with a dremel sanding drum.

  6. A bit of democracy at work...

     

    I gotta say, I think the threads for the WE and AGM M4s are kinda raging out of control.

    It's getting to the point (IMO) where people simply can't find information because the threads are too big to find it easily.

     

    Would you rather I close these threads (which are, after all, supposed to be reviews of the guns) and then, instead, we carry on discussing specific issues by posting threads about the issue in the tech forum?

     

    It seems, to me, that it'd be making better use of the forums AND it'd be a lot easier for people to find fixes for problems if there were specific threads dedicated to issues such as the forward control on the WE gun or the bolt catch on the WA/AGM etc.

     

    I should say that I am prepared to start threads (and copy particularly useful information into them) for specific subjects.

    If you DO like the idea of specific threads and you can find something useful in the old threads you can let me know and I'll chop it out of the old thread and paste it into the new one.

    That'll only happen AFTER a vote on whether to do it or not.

     

    Up to you guys. I'm just thinking of what's easiest for people trying to find the information. :)

  7. You know, not that you pointed this out to me, I suddenly realised that it is true, that the body is in fact metal. It just looks like plastic! I has a thick coat of paint on it for sure!

    Never let the facts get in the way of good writing, eh? :D

  8. Quick question about the lemon-rate on these guns: how much of a risk is to buy this gun just to play around with it for a week or two (lets say 20-30 mags) and sell it again?

    I don't think there's many proper "lemons" really.

     

    Thinking back through this thread, very few people have arrived and said "My gun wouldn't work and it's broke".

     

    If anything, mine seems to have been one of the poorer guns.

    Even so, almost all the problems are stuff you can fix with a bit of tinkering and some initiative.

     

    leaky mags and dodgy hop-ups can be repaired with a bit of tinkering.

     

    About the only real show-stopper is when the bolt splits if your shoot with green-gas for a couple of thousand shots.

     

  9. Not a design fault, thats how the firecontrol group is meant to work on the M16/WA/AGM/WOC. The only times the trigger doesnt end up functional when hammer is cocked with selector in auto is when the BCG hasnt been allowed to return to battery and seat fully home.

    When the way something's built causes it to malfunction, I call that a design fault.

     

    TBH, I was trying to edit my post but the forums wouldn't allow me.

    I wanted to add that a short pull on the charging handle or, as you say, the bolt carrier not returning fully home, would be what causes this.

     

    I just wanted to point out that this isn't a random "huh? My trigger does nothing!" moment. There IS a reason for it which can be reproduced at will.

     

    Like I said, if this ISN'T what's causing it or other people had already worked this out then feel free to ignore me. :)

  10. Starting to nail down that auto issue.

     

    Behavior: After cocking the bolt, the trigger does nothing when it is in automatic, clicking the selector to semi and then back, without doing anything else, restores automatic, going to tear her down and take a close look at the trigger mech tonight maybe.

    Apologies if this has already been addressed. I was just browsing this thread and thought I might comment.

     

    I've seen this happen on the G&P and AGM M4 as well and, looking at the mechanism, I think of it simply as a design fault rather than a malfunction.

     

    What happens is this...

     

    If you set the fire-selector to auto before operating the charging handle the hammer latches against the hammer lock rather than the semi-auto sear.

    Once the hammer is held by the hammer lock the trigger is disabled and the only thing that can fire the gun is the action of the bolt carrier moving forward again, as you'd get if you were firing in auto.

     

    If the selector is in semi when you operate the charging handle the hammer will be held by the semi-auto sear.

    If you then switch to auto the hammer lock will attempt to move forward but won't actually be able to hold the hammer until after the first shot.

    Which'll allow the gun to fire in auto as it should.

     

    You can verify this with a simple test.

    With the receiver open, set the selector to auto then slowly cock the hammer.

    You'll hear/feel the semi-auto sear latch then, if you keep pushing, a tiny bit later the hammer lock will latch.

    The trigger is now useless. As I said, the only way the hammer can be released from this state is for the bolt carrier to hit the hammer lock to release it.

    Now flip the selector to semi.

    You should see the hammer jump forward a fraction as the hammer lock releases the hammer and the semi-auto sear catches the hammer instead.

     

    It's really not a malfunction (on the G&P and AGM at least) at all.

    It's just a result of the way the mechanism is designed.

     

     

     

    As I say, apologies if I'm teaching anybody to suck eggs. :)

     

  11. Somehow I know that the newer JG and DBoys GBBRs will be far superior than the AGM, just like in the AEG departaments. Why did I get the AGM knowing this? I don't know. I want a GBBR fast!

    I wouldn't worry about buying the AGM M4 too much.

     

    Rumours suggest that the JG gun will be a copy of the WE M4 and, frankly, it's already clear that the WE gun isn't being supported by the after-market anywhere near as much as the WA system is.

     

    It remains to be seen how the Boyi gun turns out but they're not usually especially great. They produce a decent range of electric AKs and an "adequate" range of rather similar M4s.

    The thing that really worries me about Boyi/DBoys is the state of some of their after-market components.

    A lot of their mag catches, triggers, sights and other tat is actually pretty dreadful.

    If they put similar quality bits in their GBB M4 it could end up being a right mess.

     

    At the end of the day, I suspect we're all in much the same boat though.

    We buy these things as a cheap way to buy into the system with the intention of replacing possibly every part in the long term.

     

    On that note, I bought my AGM M4 as a cheap mess-about gun to experiment on without damaging my G&P M4.

    Now I'm seriously considering buying one of the new(ish) King Arms receivers to improve the looks and probably end up re-buying most of the internals in order to make them fit.

     

     

    Oh, just to add something to the thread, I've seen cheapie roller-bearing hammers for sale for these guns now. Not sure if it was at EBB or not though. Might be worth a look.

  12. Oh ok thanks for thats, i have gone for the EBB one. Is it worth getting the hop chamber as well?

    I've gone into great detail about the replacement hop-up EBB are selling on at least 3 occasions in this very thread. <_<

  13. I've got one of the cheap 12 dollar cnc'd copies of the RA-tech unit on order but it hasnt arrived yet, Stealth might be able to tell you if the areas above are the same ones that would need worked over to get the AGM actuating arm to work with it - if it is then we can safely assume that both the RA-T and the 12 dollar copies are same spec.

    Noooo....

     

    Quite the opposite.

     

    I can see I'm gonna have to take some pictures of this.

     

    On mine the pivot point for the hop-arm is a tiny bit too high up.

    The result of this is that the spring can never push the arm far enough down because the opposite end of the arm is restricted by the adjuster.

     

    If you were going to modify anything it'd be to file something off the top of the adjuster end of the arm.

    That'd allow the other end to pivot further down and actually apply a bit of hop to the BBs.

     

    As it is I suspect the best solution would be to heat up the arm and then bend it slightly in the middle but that's a bit extreme IMO.

    I've put the EBB hop-up housing in my wardrobe along with my Betamax video recorder, My BSB receiver and my minidisk player.

    When the OEM hop-up snuffs it I'll buy one that allows me to use AEG barrels.

  14. //edit, though I may be confused as to the convoluted relationship between WE/Wetti/distributors/affiliate/whatever.

    Bingo.

     

    It just occured to me that the example I'm about to make is WE related as well but anyway... :unsure:

     

    I suspect this is a similar thing to how, at first, WE flogged their Hicapa to a variety of different people who sold them to the public.

    If summat goes wrong with the gun you need to send the gun back to Bloggs Armaments or whoever rather than talking to WE about it.

     

    It seems that WE is constantly revising their guns and a wholesaler who chooses to buy (for example) 500 version 1 guns could end up in trouble if the gun is revised after they purchase their batch. Course, they get them for a price that still makes this attractive.

    The problems start when people begin to report problems with these guns which may have been solved in later revisions to the official product.

     

    I suspect that's why WETTi is trying to make sure people are aware of the distinction between "official" products and ones sold through third-parties.

  15. can anyone(who actually owns the cnc'ed hop up unit from EBB) tell me which kind of barrel(aeg or gbb) and which hop up rubber it takes?

    It uses the original barrel, bucking, hop-arm and aduster.

     

    It also, erm, doesn't seem to work.

     

    The holes for the hop arm to fit into are drilled a tiny bit too far up and, as a result, the arm doesn't have the range of movement that it should have.

     

    Note that you CANNOT fix this by JB-Welding a blob onto the front of the arm. The problem will still remain because, as the front part tries to go down the back part will STILL be restricted in its movement inside the adjuster.

     

    The only way you could fix this would be to heat up the aduster arm and bend it very slightly in the middle.

    Not the sort of thing you want to do with your only hop up arm to make it work with an item that is supposed to be a drop-in replacement. :(

  16. Hey, quick question. I wanna convert my AGM M4 to a CQB/R style. I'm going to grab the G&P 10.5" outer barrel. Since my plastic hopup is broken <_< , I was also looking at the G&P hopup and barrel assembly, but the 300mm inner is gonna be too long, isn't it? I can't seem to find a CQB/R length inner barrel... What about a PGC Hop-up and a "?" length AEG barrel? I don't want to see any inner barrel showing in the flashider :D

    You could do all that.

     

    Alternatively you could just chop a couple of inches off the end of the barrel with a hacksaw.

    Long as your careful and de-burr the end it's no big deal.

     

    Top tip: If I ever chop a barrel I stick it in a leccy drill afterwards and (with the drill running) I file the front face of the barrel to make sure it's nice and square. After that I use a knife to de-burr the inner edge of the barrel.

     

    *EDIT*

    Just noticed THESE. :huh:

  17. Do we have a list of confirmed frontends that actually fit this gun?

    One thing that I've noticed...

     

    Basically, if you try to use an AEG barrel nut on the AGM M4 the first thing you'll realise is that the hole through the middle is too small. That's no biggie. 5 minutes with a dremel will sort it.

    The next problem is that (once the hole has been enlarged) an AEG barrel nut will only screw on by a single thread. Not good.

     

    However...

     

    If you buy the steel barrel EBB are selling you'll find that it has a thinner collar where the barrel clamps to the receiver.

    You'll still need to enlarge the hole through the middle of the barrel nut but, once you've done that you'll find that an AEG barrel nut WILL secure the barrel to the receiver properly.

     

    So, in short, if you're planning on using any AEG front-set that includes a barrel nut (Like the SIR systems etc) it probably WILL go on but only if you also purchase the steel barrel from EBB.

    Or have the collar on your AGM barrel machined down so it's thinner, of course.

  18. drifting out roll pins

    if I havent got punches to hand my prefered method is to find a scrap drill bit thats same diameter as the pin (large enough not to go thru it, small enough to clear the hole the pins in) and use the shank end of that against face of the roll-pin. Then just tap the pointy end of the drill bit with flat side of a pair of pliers to get it started

    To put my trianspotting health & safety hat on for a moment...

     

    You probably shouldn't be using s drill bit as a drift. The metal should be hardened to the point where it could shatter and send splinters of drill bit all over the place.

    Even if it doesn't shatter a drill can crack sharply and if you happen to be holding it at the point where it cracks you could end up with a lump of drill bit stuck in your thumb.

     

    To be honest, with the amount of cheap & nasty drill sets on the market these days (usually those gold coloured drill bits) this isn't a huge concern but, as a rule of thumb, you shouldn't be using a drill-bit as a drift.

  19. thanks stealth, now i'm stuck on another problem, I can get all the other pins out, but i can't get no 213 out, because it's a hollow type pin... anyone know how to punch out this type of pin?

    Well....

     

    A "proper" punch (or "drift" as they're properly called) for a roll-pin is usually dual diameter. The point is thin enough to slip through the middle of the pin (which locates the drift centrally) and the rest is a diameter slightly smaller than the pin.

    It's far more common for a drift to simply have a flat end though.

     

    If you want to do it properly you can get a set of drifts (such as THESE) off eBay pretty cheap.

    Do a search on eBay for "pin drift" or "pin punch".

    Obviously, make sure the set you buy is small enough to work with your pin.

     

    Instead of doing it properly (:unsure:) I happen to have an ice-cream tub full of old jewellers screwdrivers.

    I picked out 3 or 4 that have the correct diameter shaft and grind the point off with a dremel to leave me with a suitable drift.

     

    If you go to a local market stall you can often pick up a horrid cheap set of chinese jewellers screwdrivers for less than a quid. Buy some and (as long as you already have a dremel - every airsofter needs a dremel!) you can make yourself a set of drifts pretty easily.

     

    There's nothing special about knocking out a roll-pin.

    The main thing is to use a drift as large as possible (as long as it's actually slightly smaller than the pin).

    The worst thing that can happen when you're knocking out a roll-pin is that you use something smaller than neccesary.

    If that happens the drift will force its way down inside the pin and this, in turn, will force the pin to stretch wider and it becomes a nightmare to remove the drift or the pin.

    If this happens the best thing you can do is use another (bigger) drift to try and knock the pin out from the opposite side.

  20. To remove the hop-up you need to separate the barrel from the receiver which means unscrewing the barrel nut.

     

    You'll either need water-pump pliers or a proper tool to do this... assuming it isn't already loose. Most of em seem to BE loose out of the factory.

     

    The hop-up actually lives in a tiny space at the front of the receiver.

    When you remove the front end the hop-up and inner barrel will come away from the receiver at the same time.

    You MUST keep an eye open for the tiny little spring which lives in the hop-up unit. As you slide the hop-up away from the receiver it's free to spring its way to freedom unless you grab it.

    To be fair, it's not usually under a lot of tension and you can minimise the apring tension by winding the hop-up all the way on.

     

    Once you've got the hop-up out of the gun you need to give it a good check over. Mine was built totally wrong and yours could be as well.

  21. Are you sure the nozzle is physically pushing the BBs through the hop-up?

     

    Here's a thought (in case you haven't tried it yet)...

    Whip the stock and buffer tube off.

    Load a mag with a few BBs (but no gas) in it.

    Use the charging handle to pull the bolt carrier back.

    Now use summat like a screwdriver through the back of the receiver to push the bolt carrier forward SLOWLY again.

    Do the BBs still roll out?

    Now try the same thing again but give the bolt carrier a good shove forward.

    Does it happen now?

     

    If it happens all the time you can be pretty sure it's because the nozzle is too long.

    If it only happens when you slam the bolt carrier forward then it might be the shock that's doing it.

    If you can't get it to happen at all then the problem might be more to do with what the gas is doing inside the gun rather than something mechanical.

     

    *EDIT*

    On the subject of Red Gas, I should say that the pins holding the top on my mag are bent every time I remove them.

    That's happened after using the mag for a couple of weeks with green gas.

    If one of those pins bends slightly further it'll pull through the walls of the mag and the valve housing could fly out.

    I think I'd want to be fitting new pins before trying red gas in the mag.

     

    And body armour.

  22. I'm currently working on getting the problem with the BBs rolling out of the barrel solved. I think it has to do with the hop-up.

     

    As for recoil, there are several ways to increase it. Personally the stock recoil is weak on propane.

     

    To increase felt recoil you can:

     

    1) Run it with red gas/Co2

    2) Get a heavier buffer(more weight= more energy towards your body)

    3) Stiffer buffer spring for snapier recoil

    4) Speed buffer spacers

    5) Heavier bolt carrier (a combination of an aluminum nozzle and a stee l bolt carrier. You can even add a bit of weight to the back of the BCG.)

    6) Polish the bolt and the inside of the upper reciever to let the bolt carrier glide smoother and faster.

     

    I think that's it. Since the gun isn't using gunpowder, were kinda limited to what we can use.....

     

    -Luis

    I disagree with most of that, as do the majority of other people.

     

    The gun is designed to work with 134a. People use it with propane and there are problems as a result. Red gas is ASKING for shrapnel wounds and a broken gun IMO.

     

    A heavier buffer and stronger (or pre-tensioned - that's "spacers" to you) buffer spring will absorb more recoil so the shooter feels less.

     

    Personally, I think people should learn to enjoy the recoil as it is rather than trying to make it more and more violent. In the end, all you're gonna do is cause damage to your gun due to the extra shock.

     

    Anybody know how to get to these o-rings? :huh: I've never disassemble a gas mag before, I've only disassembled it as far as the mod Luis explained to get the bolt catch working...

     

    To get to the gas release valve you need to remove the valve housing from the top of the mag.

    Another kinda half-a*sed bit of design there, IMO.

     

    Not sure if it's the same on the new mags (I think I read that they have less pins) but on the original mag you need to remove the 4 small pins (#214) from the front of the mag and the BB cover (#202) which'll allow the mag spring to, erm, spring out.

    You then need to knock out the roll-pin (#213) at the back of the mag just underneath the cut-out for the mag catch and another pin on the front of the mag (#215).

     

    With that done you can wriggle the valve housing out of the top of the mag.

    Note that there's a tiny spring (#224) under the gas lock lever (#211) and there's also the 2-part bolt catch lever (#204, #205).

    All these bits can fall out as you remove the valve housing. Collect em up for replacement.

     

    You can now use a suitable tool (or pliers) to unscrew the gas release valve and inspect the o-rings.

     

    I gotta say, disassembly of the mag has already been covered (with pictures) in this thread, 0n page 33, so it might be better to browse more before asking the same questions over and over. :)

  23. What'd you mean you're having a tough time?

     

    You hammer the 2 pins out and the sight slides off.

     

    There IS a threaded hole hidden underneath the sling loop but it doesn't seem to have a grub screw in it.

    If you're struggling to remove the front sight, knock the pin out that's holding the sling loop in place and check there's no grub screw in there.

  24. The spring is too stiff and won't allow the bolt to catch, not even with like 20 BBs using my spring mod.

     

    Sorry, I don't mean to be picky but.... your spring mod?

     

    Allow me to quote myself from earlier in this thread:-

    The only way to increase the spring tension is by either replacing or pre-tensioning the magazine spring.

    Maybe, as with midcaps, the thing to do is fit something behind the spring to compress it slightly?

     

    Even so, people have been shoving BBs, or other things, behind the springs in mags for god-knows how long so a little less of the whole "your idea" thing would be a lot better. ;)

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