Stealthbomber

Sorry, I don't mean to be picky but.... your spring mod? Allow me to quote myself from earlier in this thread:- Even so, people have been shoving BBs, or other things, behind the springs in mags for god-knows how long so a little less of the whole "your idea" thing would be a lot better.

Uhuh, Personally, I reckon the whole dsign of the bolt catch is screwy. Try it for yourself. Seperate the upper and lower receiver then shove your finger up the mag-well and try pushing on the bolt catch. Sometimes the catch will hinge up sideways, as it should. Other times it'll try to lean backwards which causes it to wedge in the slot in the receiver and jam. You can also see the problem if you just try to wiggle the bolt catch around. The catch doesn't just move up and down as it should. It'll move side to side and forward/backwards as well. Any movement that ISN'

Since when is it neccesary to whine about one bit of questionable humour when used as a reply to another questionable bit of humour? Try listening to THIS. Pay particular attention to the section about the Amityville movie.

Well, with 69 posts behind you it's not like you'll be missed. BANNED!!! Just kidding sorry

Regarding the EBB hop-up unit, I've given up with it for now. It seems as though the pivot point for the hop arm is slightly higher up than on the OEM hop-up. This means that the arm cannot physically pivot downwards far enough because the opposite end of the arm is restricted by the adjuster. This could probably be fixed by heating up the arm and bending it slightly but, frankly, I'd rather not bother trying that when there doesn't really seem that there's much wrong with the OEM hop-up.

Certainly should do. Mine has a real-steel pistol grip on it and it's fine.

Not really. It's a login page telling me I ned to register on some other forum. *EDIT* Working now. Surprised to see that's what the gun looks like after a thousand rounds through it. Mine looked like that by the time I'd emptied the first mag and it hasn't changed since.

More to it than that. There is a bit of swarf on the hop arm and there were burrs on the metal of the hop up. I cleaned off the swarf and used a couple of drills to clean up the holes by hand. With the arm in by itself it's not exactly loose but it moves well enough. The problem seems to be that with the barrel and bucking fitted the arm can't push the bucking down properly. It's almost as if the shape of the housing is holding the bucking rigidly so it can't press downwards. I'll have another look in the morning.

Ha! Famous last words! The alloy hop sold by EBB is very nicely made but, after building everything into it, it doesn't actually work. For some reason, twiddling the adjuster doesn't make the arm move. I then tried removing the spring and pushing down on the arm with a jewellers screwdriver. That did make the hop-up intrude very slightly into the bore but I was worried that I was using enough force to snap the arm so I stopped. All in all, I think the problem is that it's all just a bit snug. The OEM hop has nothing holding the two halves together so it all kinda hangs lo

Take care to make sure everything is tight. If you don't bother to fix stuff like scopes and torches to the gun you might want to do that now. I've built up my gun and just "nipped-up" the barrel nut and stock tube and, after a couple of hundred shots I realise that everything is coming loose again. The recoil really does shake things up.

I thought you said you bought your gun second-hand?

Understand that the striker sometimes stops the mag from being fully inserted. If the mag won't go in pull back the charging handle by an inch or so and it should be fine. I'd suggest you examine the bolt catch for signs of oddness. See if it can move freely. Check the spring pin can't fall out and check the spring is actually long enough to allow the pin to do, umm, anything. Check the way the hop-up is built. There's probably a lump of masking tape wrapped around the bucking. Check the hop-up bucking is fitted with the tab at the SIDE and not at the top. Check the hop-up

Another random tip... If your AGM mag is leaking you can try to seal it with PTFE tape. When you do this, remove the o-rings before winding the PTFE tape around the top and bottom block of the mag. When you're done, put the o-ring back over the tape. DO NOT simply wrap tape on top of the existing o-ring. Why not? Well, as you replace the top and bottom blocks whatever's on the outside will rub against the walls of the mag. If it's PTFE tape it'll be shredded by the time it's in place and the mag will continue to leak. If you fit the o-ring over the top of the PTFE tape

I don't think anybody has them. The rumour goes that G&P bought a huge stack of them to supply with their guns and, since then, none have been available. I wouldn't be surprised if WA mags stay out of stock until such time that WA can find a manufacturer to produce them at a cost that allows them to be sold at a price that competes with Bomber and GHK mags.

Magpul foregrip and stock? Whatever could this project be? Don't forget a CQB barrel and a Noveske flash hider.

I made a suitable tool out of an old lump of an outer barrel from a G36 I had lying around. Basically, you just need to saw a diagonal lump off the top and bottom at one end and you'll be left with a point that's a 2-pronged fork. You can then file the two fork tips flat and to the right width to match the valve.

Oh, while I'm at it, try this just for yucks... Remove your mag. Press down on the forward assist and hold it there. Slowly pull back the charging handle. So, anybody got a forward assist that actually locks into the grooves on the bolt carrier and stops it being pulled back? FWIW, the FA works just fine on my G&P M4 and the design is identical. The only difference is that the bolt carrier AND the pin on the FA are much more crisply cast on the G&P gun so it all works. Just thought I'd mention that...

I'll cobble together a bit of an MSPaint sketch of how the valve should look. There's a couple of o-rings that I think people get confuzled about. *EDIT* I should say that the shaft seal should be held in place by a countersunk hole in the centre of that small brass plug. If that seal can escape from that position it might be because the bras plug isn't a tight enough fit against it. I haven't checked this yet cos it only occured to me about, oooh, 3 seconds ago but it might be possible to put a couple of AEG gearbox shims over the end of the shaft before you put the circlip back

I think I've figured out where my AGM mag is leaking from. The moving part of the valve is assembled on a stainless steel shaft (part #220) and there's a brass plug (part #221) fitted onto the end of the shaft. There's a small o-ring seal fitted between the shaft and the brass plug to ensure no gas can pass through the centre of the plug. I can see this o-ring is not seated correctly and I'm pretty sure gas can pass through the tiny gap between the shaft and the plug that fits over it. No idea what I'm actually going to do about it yet.

Sounds like the release valve is dodgy somehow. As I've said, I KNOW the machining on mine is a bit dodgy. If I sping the middle part with my fingers I can feel it going loose and then tight. When it's tight it'll wedge open and the spring pressure isn't enough to close it. This might be your problem as well. I'm a bit baffled by the parts you've broken. You mean you've damaged the weld spring and/or the circlip behind the delta ring? There shouldn't be any pressure on those parts when you're tightening the barrel nut. Are you pressing on the delta ring and turning that rather

Dude, it's a pin. How hard can it be? Seriously, I mean, there are some simple checks that anybody with an IQ greater than 60 could think up all by themselves. Has it ALWAYS done this since you've owned it? If it HASN'T then you need to look at some of the monkeying around you've been doing. If it HAS then you need to investigate further. Release both pins, remove the upper receiver, set it aside and look at the lower by itself. Try putting the pins back now. If they go in then it looks like you're just struggling to get things aligned properly. If the pins DON'T go ba

To address some of your concerns... There is no spring that works with the lever in the mag. It's the magazine spring that pushes the lever upward. The only way to increase the spring tension is by either replacing or pre-tensioning the magazine spring. Maybe, as with midcaps, the thing to do is fit something behind the spring to compress it slightly? Not too sure what you couldd file on the mag to improve this. The metal lever on the mag is the one that operates the magna valve system. It's nothing to do with the bolt catch. The 2-part lever that actuates the bolt catch alre

Ooooh, I wouldn't like to be in your shoes when the AR15 trainspotters read that.

Not with you here. You mean the rear part of the barrel that fits into the upper receiver on an AEG? Thing is, the barrel assembly for a gas M4 is unique cos it has a cut-out for the hop-up in it. If you have a 10" CQB barrel There isn't (as far as I can see) any reason why you couldn't screw barrel extensions designed for an AEG onto it as long as they all use a 14mm CCW thread. Or, are you saying that, because the alloy barrel is made in one piece, you can't unscrew the front part and fit a steel front section? There's a variety of steel barrels available for this gun. I

Correct. It just fills gaps. Seriously, if you wanted to you could actually wind a length of cotton into the groove for the mag seal and then fit the seal on top of it. The cotton would pack out the seal so it works better. I've done this on several mags and it works very well. It just bugs me that people think PTFE tape seals stuff. It doesn't.