Stealthbomber

"teflon tape" is the lazy, incorrect, uneducated name for PTFE tape, yes.

I got bored and took mt mag to bits. Turns out that the top and bottom seals were wrapped in PTFE tape. I'm betting this is the "2nd generation" magazine that people have been talking about. My mag has never really leaked badly even though it distorts quite a bit under pressure. I guess that's good news for anybody who's bought a bunch of AGM mags. A 99p roll of PTFE tape should see you upgraded to "2nd generation" spec. The bad news is that the release valve has always leaked slightly on my mag. I don't have a tool to remove it yet (although I shall be making one out of an o

A few pics of the AGM mag... First we have an empty mag. Next we have a mag filled with HFC134a. Finally we have a mag filled with Green gas. The differences might not seem a lot but if you imagine a mag that's not exactly a loose fit and then you wrap a couple of layers of tape around it you can imagine it's gonna be a LOT tighter. FWIW, I'd never noticed before but the mag IS pretty hard to insert even with 134a. With propane it's definitely hard enough that I couldn't really change mags under fire at all.

At the risk of telling you how to suck eggs, a normal GBB works in a simple way. The hammer hits the firing pin and then bounces back slightly which causes the firing pin to be pushed into into the gas valve momentarily and this releases a short blast of gas which cycles the slide or bolt carrier. The WA Magna system is a bit smarter than this. The first part works the same, the hammer strikes the firing pin and then bounces back which pushes the firing pin forward so it can depress the gas valve. This is where things are slightly different. The gas valve is HELD open by that lever

Well, for added amusement you could always try stuffing a bunch of them into a kit vest about your person and running around in the sun with them. Perhaps plate carriers will finally find some purpose in airsoft?

Maybe there's something really wrong but it's likely that the mag valve just needs to pop back out to seal again. press down the tab on the top of the mag and then use a screwdriver to poke at the valve. Does it spring in and out? It should. Mine does this sometimes too. I just make sure I'm holding the tab down then just give the mag a couple of quick blasts of gas and it'll quickly reseat itself and allow me to fill it properly. In all honesty, I haven't investigated yet or even had a look at any of the various guides to how they're built or how to service them so I re

The anti rotation links stop the trigger and hammer pins rotating or sliding. Must say, mine don't really like staying in place properly so I might go for some. The selector is pretty easy to remove. I think (although I'm not completely sure) that you need to remove the full-auto sear first. To do that you need to pop the metal E-clip off first, then remove the plastic clip before sliding the pin out. Once you've done that you can slide the selector out, at which point a little spring pin on the right hand side will pop out. When you're replacing the selector you can push the sp

I gotta say, the thing that puts me off the AGM mags isn't so much the problems with leking but rather the way they expand. It's physically almost impossible to insert the mag when it's filled with propane. I'd go as far as to say it's really unusable in a skirmish.

I suppose that must be a rare case of a chinese manufacturer actually thinking for themselves rather than just blindly copying somebody elses design. To digress slightly, I am very impressed with the quality of the AGM outer barrel. I know it's only aluminium but it's beautifully machined. Hell, the G&P barrel on my ICS M4 only has a cast finish.

You gotta love airsoft forums. The correct answer is CCW, left-handed, anti-clockwise, negative. Take your pick. Stickittoyou was obviously having a brainfart.

Oh, I got another one... My hop-up bucking was installed on its side. Allow me to explain... When I took the hop-up to bits there was tape wrapped around the bucking and the hole was on the side. The edges of the barrel are really sharp and at first I thought the bucking had been torn during assembly. When I removed the bucking it became apparent there was a proper hole in the bucking rather than a rip. That's why I assume it was moulded poorly rather than damaged in assembly. Anyway, the tab on the bucking was at the 12'o'clock position, clamped between the two gearbox h

FWIW, on ALL these fancy curved AR15 trigger guards, I think it's always worth test-fitting it first. If the guard is too short you can squash it flat, slightly, in a vice, to make it longer. If the guard is too long you can use a vice with 3 bits of packing to increase the curve slightly. Obviously, in all cases you should protect the guard properly and this will only work if the guard is half-a-hole out or thereabouts. If the error is more than this, forget it. Also, as Tuulos says, you should ALWAYS try to put something underneath every pin you knock out to support the item. I

I wouldn't put too much faith in any "testing" redwolf do if I was you. I know there's been several occasion where their features have contained huge inaccuracies. In other news, anybody else noticed that the AGM mags are MUCH harder to insert once they're gassed-up? The mags supplied with the G&P gun (dunno if it's a WA mag) certainly don't swell up like this. Oh, while I'm at it, my AGM hop-up bucking has a hole in the side. Somebody else mentioned that the bucking has masking tape wrapped around it. I removed the masking tape and there's a round hole in the side of the b

To digress slightly... Anybody know of a proper guide to taking a WA/AGM gun to bits? I just noticed summat that looks like swarf down in the bottom of the lower receiver of mine and I think I should take it to bits and clean it out.

Maybe it's just me but that rail looks really wonky. It looks like it's pointing upwards at the front.

Oh god, here we go... 1st gen this, 2nd gen that. Are we sure there are different types of mag? Can we see some side by side pictures of the old mags and the "new" ones that show the differences?

If you go to your camera settings there'll be a tick-box that allows you to flip the image.

*sigh* Moved to review section.

I can help with that. All you need to do is ask.

I would never recommend that. On the one hand I suppose that the mags might distort over time when pressurised but I GUARANTEE you that you'll get leaks if you leave the mags without gas in. I can see no explanation for why a mag would begin to leak when left horizontal. It'll either hold the pressure or it won't, regardless of orientation.

Why do we think the mag will be damaged if we leave the mag horizontal?

Sorry but discussion about removing orange flash-hiders is not allowed. You'd think that, between you all, somebody might have read that in the rules.

Right, No more pictures or discussion about real-steel firearms.

Don't forget that a pack of 3 mag's weighs just about the same as the rifle. Given that shipping is about $50 on the gun it's fair to say it's a similar amount for the mags. Once you knock off $50 of shipping you ARE left with $20 each for the mags. I suspect that the price of these mags will only become truly cheap once we've all got a selection of domestic suppliers to choose from.

In all honesty, no. Retailers tell you what they want you to know. If your retailer buddy sells WA guns he might tell you the ACM gun is a pile of shyte. I think it's better if, as I already said, people refrain from posting what they've been told and rely on 1st hand experience.