ruchik
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Posts posted by ruchik
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So not even the pre-orders have shipped, huh?
Apart from the hex screw differences, do you know what other improvements have been made??
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Does anyone know how long that holdup is supposed to take? I'd really like to order an R28 from them, they're supposed to be better versions of the previous Army Kimbers.
Come to think of it, besides the hex screws in the grips, what ARE the differences?
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Does anyone know what's going on with their Army Kimber Warrior pre-orders? The pre-orders should have been over on the 20th, and I emailed them asking if they're sitll available. ACMgear said that they've got regular retail ones coming in that would cost a few bucks more, but I have yet to see any kind of change on their site. Have the pre-orders even shipped yet? When can I get my hands on one?
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Can anyone tell me what the difference is in shipping times between their free shipping and regular, 7-10 day airmail? It's less than a dollar difference.
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Wait a tick. How can it be a traditional DA/SA, since the gun is designed to be SA only, like a 1911? Not trying to bust your chops, but I'm really curious about this gun.
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So does this mean that the gun will fire in SA every time after the first trigger pull, like a TM p226 or Beretta, or does the gun stay in DA all the time? I was under the impression it stayed in DA all the time.
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Oddly enough, those grips actually come with that gun. My roommate bought one, and it comes with the faux Pachmayrs that are identical to the Marui MEU ones and a pair of those wooden grips.
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Hey Ivan, is your pack integrated into the Eagle chest rig somehow? I can't see any straps for the backpack.
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Wrong place buddy, not a good idea to try and get around the 100 post rule for the sale forums by posting that.
In other news, if I want to use the KA MBK and decided to use the stock barrel, I don't even need the barrel nut the kit comes with?
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In order to use any of the KA Vltor metal body kits, do I have to use AEG front ends, or can I use the stock barrel/delta ring with the castle ring included in the package?
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Yup, stock nozzle and bolt carrier. Found a c-clip, but it still doesn't resolve the problem of the nozzle being really stubborn.
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Well I took the bolt carrier apart to see what was going on. The clip holding the spring that's supposed to pull the nozzle back into the carrier isn't there. Hmmm. No wonder the loading nozzle doesn't always come back.
And the loading nozzle is really hard to move in and out of the carrier. I lubed it up and cleaned it out, it's not cracked anywhere, just really hard to push in and out for some reason.
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Does anyone have a problem with the nozzle sometimes not moving back with the bolt carrier when the bolt locks back? The GHK mag I have locks the bolt carrier back consistently all the way, but sometimes the white nozzle itself only moves back partway, or barely at all. It's really random.
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So I got myself a GHK mag, no leaks, everything's gravy. Except that it sits too far up, and when fired, just vents all the gas. The bolt clearly cannot overcome the resistance of the mag. Can anyone point out exactly what part of the notch in the mag that catches into the mag release that needs to be shaved?
NM it works. Just had to bend the tabs at the top back a little.
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Is the floating valve in the nozzle supposed to be sticking out, or recessed into the nozzle? Should it provide tension when pushing against it, or pulling against it?
Made another interesting discovery. The mag only stops leaking when I apply pressure to the valve.
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That's the problem I'm having, the valve is really hard to push in. But I can't figure out why. The hammer moves smoothly. Just one day, after I reassembled the mag, it started doing that. I've taken it apart and put it back together, no difference. Even sticking the mags in the freezer didn't help.
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Nope haven't tried taking apart the hammer mech yet. But the mag problem still persists. The valve is REALLY hard to push in when it's got gas in it. I know it wasn't always that way either. I stuck the mag in the freezer for 10 minutes, still the valve was stiff. The valve itself, when the mag is empty, moves in and out just fine, so it's not bent. And it's leaking on top of that. I superglued the o-ring in place, no dice, still leaks. Something is causing that valve to push outwards with extreme pressure. At this point, I think I'm just going to can it.
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Does anyone have a problem with the hammer light striking? It feels like the hammer isn't dropping with as much force as it used to. Is the hammer spring wearing out, or is it just gummed up?
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I'm somewhat undecided about what mags to buy for the AGM. Should I go with Bomber, GHK, or 5KU? I've had just about enough with the stock AGM mag, it's given me nothing but problems.
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Here's something a little different. It's a WE 3.9 1911 frame with a WE MEU slide with its guts, and some gubbins from it too.
It's got a TM hop up unit along with a KM rubber. I know about the front end, I'm planning on replacing it anyway. Couple of notes about this...
1. Everything inside and including the TM 4.3 slide swaps over. However, the gun shoots about 1 inch low, meaning that the inner barrel sits at a downward angle inside the outer barrel, which in turn means that the entire hop up assembly is getting pushed up inside the gun. This leads me to believe everything inside a TM Hi-Capa slide sits slightly lower than the WE counterpart. The TM slide is also a REALLY tight fit. Cycles fine, but needs some lube to run smoothly.
2. WE 1911 slide works perfectly fine, no accuracy issues.
3. 4.3 length inner barrels don't work in the WE 1911 5 inch outer barrels. A shorter inner barrel points WAY off, so the shot goes high right.
4. Every so often, the slide occasionally binds. Racking it solves the problem. Happens only when racking manually, not during firing. Not sure what's going on here.
5. The dust cover (the portion of the frame in front of the trigger guard) is actually Government length, not Officer length. You can use either the 5 inch slide, 4.3 inch slide, or the 3.9 inch without any problems.
Also forgot to add...interestingly enough, this gun actually exists. Well, to be more accurate, a custom gunsmithing company called Cylinder and Slide can actually cut the frame down on a full size 1911 to Officer's length, whilst leaving a full 5 inch slide on the gun. Here's an example (gun is NOT mine, belongs to a forum member called BriGuy1 over on thehighroad forums):
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I did, just a couple posts above. The mag doesn't seem like it's releasing enough gas.
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At the risk of telling you how to suck eggs, a normal GBB works in a simple way. The hammer hits the firing pin and then bounces back slightly which causes the firing pin to be pushed into into the gas valve momentarily and this releases a short blast of gas which cycles the slide or bolt carrier.
The WA Magna system is a bit smarter than this.
The first part works the same, the hammer strikes the firing pin and then bounces back which pushes the firing pin forward so it can depress the gas valve.
This is where things are slightly different.
The gas valve is HELD open by that lever built into the mag.
The slide (or in the case of the M4, the bolt carrier) moves back about 1".
The shape of the slide (or bolt carrier) is designed to depress that tab after roughly 1" so that the lever unlocks the gas valve again, which shuts off the flow of gas.
Basically, this means you get a measured amount of gas with each shot.
Wait no, I think this is the problem. I lost the little spring for the valve lock lever, so it can't move up or down anymore. But this just started happening...I lost that spring a while ago and the mag/gun worked fine for a bit. Maybe it decided it didn't like not having that lever working anymore.
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Nope not the case either. It leaked, but I fixed it. It started doing this the last time I went into the mag to fix the seal. I'm thinking it has something to do with the teflon tape I wrapped around the o-ring that kept slipping, but I did it before and it worked fine. I can't figure out what's causing the problem now.
I should further clarify. The bolt does move back, but not far enough to reset the hammer and trigger. I took a look at the floating valve assembly. Is the floating valve supposed to be sticking out, and push back into the nozzle, or is the valve supposed to be resting inside, and pushed outwards but the gas?
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I always made sure the hammer was cocked before I put the mag in, and I did stick the mag in the fridge for 10 mins before trying it again. Same results. If I screw the valve assembly into the body too tight, would that have an effect?
1911 Picture Thread
in Weapons
Posted · Edited by ruchik
Can anyone show me a picture of a TM 1911 with a Guarder flat steel mainspring housing on it? I'd like to see specifically how well it fits into the frame.
Actually, if anyone also knows, I'm looking for the best flat MSH out there for a TM 1911. It needs to fit like a RS MSH; none of this Western Arms nonsense where the housing sticks out of the frame a bit. I'm looking for one that sits flush with the frame.