Pablo

Okay, bearing dimensions: External width: 8mm Height: 4mm Internal bore: 3mm Same as stock 8mm bearings, but without the 1mm deep flange at one end. Incidentally, I popped into 6mil to borrow their callipers, and Phil had a Para on the workbench. He'd replaced the o-ring on the piston and compression was much better than on mine so I'm gonna do the same. He'd also fitted a CA short type high speed motor, and the ROF with this was much much better. There were some feeding issues, but these were fixed by adjusting the feed tube/spring in the gearbox (it seems to be a bit long

I'll ask Arnie.

You'll be able to view them now. As I've repeatedly said, anyone with 100+ posts needs to post just once in order to bump the system and then you can view. Shows how much some folks read.

Try now you've posted. Anyone with more than 100 posts needs to post once to bump the system again before the Sales forum becomes visible. No spamming though please

That guy must have moved between shots, as his arm should be in the aimpoint image too.

Don't spam, it'll only lead to suspension. Forgive me if I don't answer any questions straight away, I'm kind of inundated right now.

I'm afraid I don't have any calipers, but I'll see if I can get them measured tomorrow. Can you do me a favour in return? At least make an attempt at punctuation and use of capital letters at the beginning of sentences! Oh, and try saying "please". The holes aren't the same width right through the gearbox wall. They're deep enough to seat the bearings, then there's a narrower hole through the wall (so that you can get 'em out again).

...because the gearbox doesn't have the recesses for the flange (which I'm told the CA gearbox does). The ones I bought were for the CA M249 too. The flanges on either side sit on the gearbox wall. The gears therefore no longer fit the space between them and you can't close the two halves. The holes the stock bearings sit in are deeper in order to seat the flangeless bearings (they appear to be the same depth as the other bearings). I'd love to be wrong, though.

Oh, and if you do replace your bearings, don't do what I did and get ones with flanges on the back. They won't fit. Luckily I realised before I tried to fit them. On the cylinder head front: the G&G I used fitted great, nice seal and all - but the nozzle is too wide for it. EDIT: I'm having trouble finding any 8mm bearings without flanges, so if anyone knows where to obtain them please let me know!

You also need some punctuation there, sparky! What are you aiming to achieve from the upgrade? If you're going for 1J, I'm guessing increased ROF and reliability? Accuracy is fine stock, trust me. You'll need to do some research about where to buy yourself though, we ain't the shopping channel you know! Bearings: Get 8mm - Problem is, the gearbox has no internal recess for the flanges, and the stock bearings have no flange. So far, I haven't found any flangless 8mm bearings anywhere. Gears: Why? Nowt wrong with the ones in there (once greased and shimmed). If they break, replace

I've only ever opened two gearboxes (both within the last month) and I found the PGC gearbox in the M249 to be the easiest (the other was a V2 from a CA M15A4). Reading back it does sound a lot of work, but it's really straightforward if you follow the advice given so far. I'll be cracking it open tonight to check for wear from Sunday, so I've picked up a V2 cylinder head (£10 G&G one, I'll let you know how that goes) and some Kanzen 8mm ceramic/steel bearings (£20 - best there are apparently). I'm sure I'd have got these for half that from HK, but I have no patience . I'll fit thes

Cheers, saved me hunting. Have an imaginary +10

Got a link? I know naff all about mosfet's, should check 'em out.

I changed mine for a Private Parts (honest, bought it from 6mil) M100 spring (which delivers 350fps in another gun), and it's now producing a steady 0.9j. That'll be the dodgy compression then. ROF also increased (as you might expect) but still nowhere close to a CA one. The piston went in fine, there just seemed to be a bit too much "give" in the o-ring. I'll maybe open her up again tonight and check the seals. Incidentally, which type of cylinder head would I want? I looked in 6mil to see what they'd got, and they had some G&P (I think) one's in but all of them were v3's. I d

Does the o-ring on the piston head look alright to you? Seems a bit big on mine. I did consider replacing the cylinder etc, but with the fps people say they're already kicking out I figured that better compression would be a bad thing.

Very easy. I watched the takedown guide on Youtube, so I left the trigger switch alone, sorry should have mentioned it. I tied a length of speaker cable to my wires, then threaded that through the hole to pull the wires through the hole. Again, sorry should have mentioned that. I thought the bearings were bigger than 6mm, though I didn't measure them. I'll be replacing them soon, so I'm glad I know now. The gun still sounds a bit whiney, but nowhere near as bad as before. I'll see if 6mil will let me chrono it and get a ROF reading on the 9.6v I'm using.

Great for firing from the hip though

Well, I tested mine in a skirmish today, and apart from a decidedly average ROF it was pretty good. I switched the stock spring for an M100 which improved the ROF a bit, but it was no better than most stock AEG's (and I tried it with a few 9.6v batteries, including a 3300mah large battery strapped to the side). I suspect that the motor is built for torque, rather than speed. I might change it and see what difference it makes. BTW, I wasn't able to test either FPS or ROF I'm afraid. The boxmag jammed at one point, but I emptied it and ran it on Auto setting for a second and it cleared

I've done mine the opposite way around - I'll be working on the boxmag tomorrow.

Just for the record, so far I've replaced the hop bucking (with a cut-out section of a suitably chunky o-ring - thanks for the tip SB), greased the internals with the appropriate types of grease and re-shimmed it. Cost so far: £0.00, as I already had everything anyway (and if I hadn't, this would have cost me £24.97 from 6mil). I'll keep you posted on any expenses incurred in producing CA quality results Btw, if the piston goes, I won't include that as I'm told this is just as likely with a CA.

Can't see any A&K's, but the CA one is on here: http://www.airsplat.com/airsoft-manuals.htm Edit: interesting discovery, though this might not be hugely useful to everyone - I tried my 9.6v 2000mah saddle battery which usually sits in the foregrip of my GR300L - fits like a glove in the foregrip of my Mk1 too. Edit 2: It also fits in my 48" double rifle bag, so I don't have to buy anything to carry it in! This keeps getting better and better.

My bevel gear wasn't cast very well, a bit thinner at one point on the base. Hopefully this wont affect it too much, everything aligns as it should, but I'll keep my eye on it. Easy enough to whip the box out for a quick inspection every now and again.

Once you get in there, the gearbox is pretty straightforward isn't it? I think mine's sounding better, I'll have to get it out in the field to be sure. That motor's got some powerful magnets, hasn't it?

Yep, that's what I did, job done I phoned ASW for advise, you're right it can take it okay (I was worried after other people commented on the stripabilty of some screws). I now have the gearbox out. Cheers guys! EDIT: bloody hell, I see what ORH means about the shims, and the gears have absolutely no grease on them at all! No wonder she sounded a bit screechy.

Nope, hole's so small, the only screwdriver I could get through bent. By the way, on the takedown video for the para, it looks like the magwell is attached completely to the top plate, is that right? It certainly isn't on the Mk1, and I'm having trouble getting the gearbox out.