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Airbrush it with some gloss black paint and you will have the exact finish as a NDM-86. Also, nicks, chips, and heavy dripping messy coats of shellac just make it more authentic. Should make for a fantastic weapon, despite trying to get out of airsoft, I might end up with one of these in the near future.

Don't mean to double post, but it's been to long for me to edit my last one. Here is just a video Wish I could find some more shells decently priced.

Piston is a guarder M92 piston and the extractor I made from a machine screw. What I did was drill a hole the size of the extractor so it would be completely gone, threaded it, screwed in the screw cut it to be flush on the outside of the bolt, put a flat head notch in it just in case it ever needed to be backed out and replaced, and then just reshaped the screw inside the bolt into that basic triangle shape the original extractor was. Works flawlessly.

The hose is for external regulated Co2 use. It's just a little long and coiled over, there is a connecter right behind the trigger guard. With a new piston head and a new extractor, I have been running at about ~160PSI and get just awesome spread with 9 BB's along with about 75-100ft effective range. The internal gas tank pushed about 5 BB's 40ft.

Well... I guess I have no other choice but to call this shotgun done for now.

My bet would be because it's either cheaper or faster to do the current finish. Especially when their first batch sold out so fast when hitting the stores, I'm sure they needed to do something with such the large demand for the V.2 Batch? At least that is just my current baked theory

That Czech site had those like a month after the A&K was released, in fact, I think I even posted a link to it in here? (Might of been another forum if not) Also, that czech site is safe to order from. Beck when I had one of my M24's I used there piston inside of it. Machine marks could be found on the items, but for a 50$ cylinder set it was still very nice.

Basically a hole that covers the extractor is drilled right over it to remove the molded pot metal lump called an extractor, the hole is then threaded, a steel screw is screwed in, cut flush on the outside of the bolt, and then on the inside ground into the triangle shape of the original extractor. If in the event brass shell lips could deform steel screws and it were to need replacing, all you would have to do is unscrew it and replace it with a new screw. A good 5 minutes of work.

Was originally a M1100 Defender, did my own idea on making a new shell extractor, and replaced the piston head with a M92 one from Guarder. Been running at 100-175PSI for what has to be over a thousand shell cycles by now. Still running strong, ejecting cleanly, and just really lobbing 9 .30's. When loaded with nine .20's they just scatter into about a 3 foot spread at about 10 yards. My original 3 shells are just about shot to *suitcase* though. They have been used so many times they are falling apart and failing at keeping BB's inside them.

My M1014 Anyone notice anything special about it? Just started building this yesterday, still has a few little cosmetic details to be done. Probably will be for sale when finished.

This is why I love arnies... any other place you make a comment like that and they freak and ban you. xD Very tits looking pistols, as always.

Rifle is a Tanaka Kar98k Mounts are Accumounts Low Turret Replicas Scope is a Replica (Czech I believe?) Zeiss Zf39 Rifle had to have holes drilled and threaded into the receiver to allow the mount bases to be installed. Scope had to be disassembled to the point of being an empty tube. Rings had to be heated with a torch to expand to allow the the scope tube to hammered into place. The tricky part was making sure the everything was perfectly vertically aligned the very first time. Once the holes in the rifle have been drilled, or the scope rings have cooled over the scope tube there is n

And to think I almost settled with the use of a Marushin due to the hard to find Tanaka

Here is some better pictures of the rifle and scope mounts.

I would be down for it, haven't played in years. Why play though when you own the guns in the game

I think back in DoD times I fell in love with k98's with tower mounts, then when DOD:S came to be, it just became an even stronger desire for one

ooooh... Sexy, I know

ooooh... Sexy, I know

I thought I had put this picture in this thread before, after a quick look apparently I hadn't. Only the PSG1, WA2k, and M82a1 are over the 1k$ mark. Wednesday I will be adding a new rifle that is over the 1k$ mark too an will fit in nicely with my other German sniper rifles

They have all been sold off. Here is a list of the ones I liked. Ones I didn't feel that deserved to be on the list have been like the UTG M324, Mp001, Swiss arms M6, etc. Asahi WA2000 DX VFC V.2 M82a1 CA M24 "Military" CA M24 "Civilian" Maruzen APS2 Tanaka Kar98 Custom VSR Kar98 Maruzen L96 TSD L96 TM VSR 10 & G-Spec JG Bar-10 & G-Spec AtoZ V.3 SVD Dragunov A&K SVD Dragunov TM PSG-1 TM PSG-1 #2 Well AW338 G&G Veteran M14 Some of these I didn't have long enough to even photo and were only in my possession for a month or two. Although most of them you can

And that's only about a 1/6th of the sniper rifles I have owned

VFC V.2 M82a1 A&K SVD with HP SVD Bipod Asahi WA-2000 DX Maxed TM PSG1 3 out of 4 break the 1k mark easily. Here is about $7,000 in these 4 rifles... If you include the bi-pod and optics for the svd (Not photoed)

Not even close. The Ares uses VSR style spring and piston system and possible a VSR style hop up, so at best, it will just be a heavy boxy VSR.

A gold Desert Eagle. Now that is the only gun that just looks good in gold to me

Internals: Inside this rifle is the solenoid valve system that lets gas flow, as you have been reading about already in this. The system is very straight forward on how it works. As the trigger is pulled, it pulls a bar connected to the air nozzle back inside the solenoid cylinder. As the nozzle is sealing against the bucking, the front of the trigger pushes a microswitch which triggers the current to kick on from the 8.4v mini under the fore grip to put power to the electromagnet inside the solenoid system pulling back the piston that has a rubber seal on the front of it. When the piston is