Chris North
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Posts posted by Chris North
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Personally I like The Chef's way better. It seems much less likely to have any impact on gas flow.
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By further threading the rod, then screwing it into the back of the nozzle to press the float valve?
That shouldn't really have any negative effect on blowback strength. Is it very noticeable, or just barely?
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recently modified my nozzle to make it shoot 320+fps.
It does that now and is perfect but I have realised that the blowback intensity is very slightly affected (weaker) and will probably be more significant when the whether gets colder over here.
anyone experience this and is there a solution?
How have you modified your nozzle?
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Wow, that's a bit different and worse than I was expecting.
How old were these mags when they exploded? Maybe there's some sort of metallurgical issue and the metal becomes weakened from everyday use.
AFAIK, you shouldn't keep ANY gas gun left charged for any extended period of time. S'kinda common knowledge...Ben.
On the other hand, I've always heard that some gas should be left in the magazine when storing it to keep the seals healthy. It's always been my experience that mags that go into storage ungassed tend to develop leaks, where as mags that always have a bit of gas in them almost never develop a leak unless they suffer a hard fall.
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WA mags cost so much because of where they're made and who they're made by. They are only slightly more complex than WE mags. They also probably don't explode because they leak with the slightest bit of mistreatment on propane (for example, filling them with propane).
It's definitely an issue. Keeping your filled mags out of high-heat environments is the obvious and common sense solution, but the question of what exactly constitutes "high-heat" could be raised considering that like all gas guns the WE M4 is designed to work in warm environments and cold isn't exactly it's preferred operating environment. A safety valve however would in my opinion mostly just jack up the price of a mag and allow another point of failure for gas to leak out in normal conditions.
However this all might just be my misguided opinion spat-out in a sleep-deprived state since I still haven't seen a photo of exactly where one of the mags has failed.
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I've shot about 2/3 of my 1kg bag of .28g BB's.
They are the G&G 5.95mm ones.
My hopup is on the lowest setting (I have V1 on AFC). I modified my valve for highout put, around 500fps.
The further i move away from the target, the higher my shots go.
Just as a test, I took out the hop-up rubber, and the shots still go up the farther i go back. Any ideas?
I used a level to check to make sure if my barrel is straight, and it appears to be just fine.
The gun, however, is very precise in it's groupings.
I am using a replica EoTech 552 from DragonRedto line up my shots, and it actually holds its zero quite well.
I think it's the hopup, but I am not entirely sure. This issue is really bothering me, please help
How high at how far back? Are you sure it isn't just that the sight was set at a certain range and moving away from it is what makes the rifle seem to shoot up?
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What the fresh hell is that !!??
#91 custom part ???
http://airsoftglobal.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=9476
Was discussed a few pages back, here.
Seems to be another one of those mostly useless parts. I want steel barrels, now!
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Thanks guys!
To be honest though the way they're shaped isn't that great, but I was very impressed to get a "burly" block of wood among a few blocks of standard grained stuff.
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Liking the look of that A1. Is it stock or does it have some sort of kit installed?
Thought I'd share a few pics of my old WA 1911A1 with its new (somewhat defiling) threaded barrel:
And for the hell of it I threw the KA Noveske KFH on (which really makes it very loud):
Soon to be put up for sale in a thread near you!
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I think (if I'm getting you, Ott.) he means a nozzle with some sort of spring to compress it when loading. Not sure how/if it would would myself, though. Fancypants illustrations, please.
I don't really see a way to get a modern GBB pistol loading nozzle without completely redesigning the hop up/feeding unit area and modifying the magazine.
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You might also want to check out WE M4 Wiki. No reviews but it lists most of the common problems and solutions that some WE M4s have.
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A very big maybe. It's more likely that you'll be able to get one for the price of the WE LaRue receiver and a new WE. Even then it's not going to have a LR receiver. Plus, real 5.56 rounds have the tendency to kill stuff, even if only after a few.
I think it's pretty reasonably priced for what it is, but honestly I wouldn't spend that much on an airsoft accessory/add on either (honestly I'd think hard before spending it on a RS product too). I suppose it just takes the right kind of gun nut.
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lol
Whan asked how much shipping was, shipping to my door was $87 bucks- but so I'm clear,
1 'Army' full metal caliber .45 M.E.U. pistol (SOC) - (R27 Black) kg USD58.99 USD5.90 USD53.09
1 'Army' full metal caliber .45 M.E.U. pistol (SOC) - (R27 Silver) kg USD63.99 USD6.40 USD57.59
1 (Lot of 2) x 'Dboys' WWII 98K rifle cartridges stripper clips kg USD6.99 - USD6.99
Subtotal: USD117.67
Included discount: USD12.30
Shipping cost: USD87.00
Grand total: USD204.67
The metal is ok- I suppose its zinc? I mean I wouldn't use it as a hammer....
That's what I thought but $87 seemed absurd for one GBB. I forgot you'd bought two, even still it seems a bit much. Thanks.
Edit: Quote added for clarity. Stupid distracting TV...
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Sorry, just wanted to make sure I understand. $87 for shipping or $87 shipped?
Also, how's the metal quality?
Glad you put this up. I was considering getting another 1911, but I didn't know these existed as an option.
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Just in case you didn't already know, Vaseline can eat away rubber seals eventually. As far as I understand it's only necessary to prevent the seal from sticking when creating it only, but it's still something you might want to be wary of.
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Has anyone else requested parts from WE through Airsoft Buddy? If so, how long was the turnaround time? I think i asked for them around March 25th or so, but still haven't heard anything yet. I'm going to wait another week before sending him another email, but I can't help but be slightly impatient, since my M4 needs those parts to function...
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Anyone willing to help me out with a really basic doodle/art project? It would only take some one that knows what they're doing 5 minutes, but I don't and have spent 30 minutes on it but I still can't get it right.
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As long as it's aligned perfectly, then definitely.
If you have trouble finding 1500-2000 grit sandpaper, I used 1000 grit sandpaper which seems to have done its job well enough.
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That's the right way to do it, but the pin is a complete *badgeress* to get in and out. After you get the pin out the forward assist assembly should slide right out.
What's this about an M16A3? I'd consider selling my M4 if one were to come out...
Edit: Unless additional stock and barrel options were to be released also.
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Unfortuneately the Google trick doesn't work for the majority of Arnies because everything but the news and rules section are hidden from non-members. Just checked by searching for "uzi" then an utterly random word ("ding") but only got results from the main news page, the news forum, and the review database.
IIRC last time this was brought up either Arnie or Marlowe said that it's unlikely that 3 letter word searches would likely not be allowed because it would overwork the forum thingamabob.
The best option it seems is to depend on the sad people that lurk all day and post a question. Likely on person would remember a thread from way back, post a link, then tell you to search.
Edit: Just realized it may come off that way, but it I'm not having a go at anyone.
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Because of the way the system works the o-ring (part #122) would have to leave the brass cylinder. All of the gas that pushes the bolt carrier back against the recoil spring needs to be released. I'm pretty sure it was briefly discussed a long time ago.
You might be able to get away with having several large holes drilled into the very end of the cylinder, but even then it might not work, and if it did probably not as well. The way it is now is how almost all modern GBBs work, and it honestly is a very good system. Otto's suggestion of polishing the outer lip of the cylinder and Loctiting the screw that holds the nozzle/piston head assembly down is perfectly sufficient to keep things working for a very long time.
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For those that own the recoil counterweight:
About how much would you say it weighs? What does it seem to be made of?
I also was able to add some small lead weights originally intended for fishing to see their effect. I don't recall how much weight was added total but I also noticed a bit more kick. I had a bit more trouble with cool-down though.
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About how much would you say the weight weighs? What is it made of?
Sucks that the few aftermarket parts the WE gets don't seem to be worth anything...
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^ Not all of us have these marks, but all of us have poor shot to shot consistency.
Wouldnt it be safe to say that the hopup has more to do with this poor accuracy?
(As well as the wet gas jet, used to propel the bb - as I have said many times. It wets and messes with the hop.)
Lets see how the new hop rubber performs.
Sorry Otto, but I disagree. There's no doubt that the hop up is directly linked to accuracy, but if the BBs look like that jo matter how great the hop is they're never going to fly right.
I'd agree that going on the photo, it doesn't look like it's the nozzle either. The two marks are spread too far part for it to be the nozzle's tip, and I think it would take a lot of force for something to crush most BBs like that.
KSC BBs have always been really easy to crush or shatter in my experience. Ignoring that, they are IMO the best brand.
Also tried tried weighting my recoil buffer with some lead fishing weights. I do notice a difference in recoil, but it's not incredible. Gas efficiency seems to be reduced by a bit since I notice a lot more slowing at the end of a mag's worth of firing.
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in Off-topic Pictures
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...I could have found the base image without any recollection of making it.