calbur20

A rock made out of plastic and awesome. I've noticed that my bolt fails to lock back lately, anyone else been having this issue? There's no noticeable wear on the bolt or on the bolt lock, so I'm puzzled why it's not locking back.

Photobucket, methinks they resize the pics automagically.

@L4byr1nth: Was your NPAS a drop in fit (I'm assuming you have a closed bolt version aye?) Was looking to get one because after installing a tightbore in my SCAR the FPS jumped waaay past 500. Was looking for a way to downgrade it properly.

Gah. Why doesn't anyone stock this locally! I WANT THIS SO BAD

Ah. I stand corrected then.

Well, aside from the obvious of course.

Can anyone guess what's missing on my M4?

No, the airsoft ones. The ones I handled were quite ok, though I couldn't really justify buying one. The local shop had one for about 90 dollars, a bit expensive I reckon.

Or you can get a Red dot and a red dot magnifier. The eye relief is better with that.

From the looks of things yes. A standard WE hammer should drop in without any problems. From here.

Yeah, it's a known issue with WE rifles. You might need to threadlock that sucker in (Loctite Red does wonders) because if the pin keeps rolling out and moving, it'll eventually elongate the hole it's sitting in, and you'll have to replace the whole hammer when that happens. That happened to my SCAR many moons ago.

Nah, the picture I posted is real steel. The Greaseguns were reissued to our Navy personnel and fitted with integral silencers to fill a gap in our forces' requirements. The conversion was cheap, fast and decently successful. You can read more about it here. There's also a video in that page that shows the thing shooting.

All you need is a red dot, and it'll look just like this:

You actually just need to take out the bottom rail. I used to disassemble mine the hard way (bottom rail plus the torque screws) then found out just needed to take out the two screws holding the bottom rail together. Maybe the barrel is loctited, somehow?

Is the new open bolt made out of steel? The old closed bolt ones had steel bolts and bolt catches so wear was never really a problem even after almost 10,000 rounds.

Holy ######. 3 shots you say? Does the new bolt not have a rubber buffer in the back like with the PDW?

My twins. Why two? Why not?

Aside from a few more rail covers and possibly an EOTECH magnifier, I'm done with her externally. Still need a M4 length tightbarrel in there though. GBB all teh way

Joe, have you spent a whole mag's worth? How's the recoil? Been thinking of grabbing one, but been holding back cause SRC's quality (at least the GBBR line) is still a big question mark in my mind.

@Elchinator: Are the grips that come with the Hera 1911 kit solid or do they flex? Any chance of fitting a Para-ord in there?

Coolness. I guess everything that needs to be replaced would be the old bolt, Hop up chamber (obviously), full auto sear, recoil spring and bolt hold open thingy. Hmm. I wonder what the power range will be for this...

It really doesn't make sense to rework the SCAR's trigger design, as WE themselves have re-used the same basic design with minor changes on 4 guns (M4, SCAR, PDW and G36). Changing the design means retooling, redesigning and recasting, which costs a lot of money - heck, if they didn't change the trigger group for a relatively drastically different gun (G36) why would they change it for an old one? My money is on just the hop, outer barrel and bolt, just like the PDW.

I was afraid of that. Still, the platform is worth the upgrades. Cheers.

Has anyone changed their stock hammer to a steel one, and if so, how is your valve knocker doing? I had to change mine out for a steel TSC one since the hole in the stock hammer where the roller sits got elongated. Now I'm afraid the valve knocker might disintegrate from the force of the steel hammer.