BaBaBooey

It sounds like the lower was already demilled (it also appears re-anodized, but it's hard to tell in your photos)...but a Colt 600 series carbine is arguably some of the most rarest Colt carbines on the market. In North America a genuine complete commercially marked 653 can sell upwards of $18K US...Property marked M16A1's made by Colt, H&R, Hyrda-Matic, etc. can even go twice sometimes even three times higher than that, based on condition and provenance. But I assume it would be next to impossible to legally restore it, even in Europe, so I suppose it couldn't be used for anything oth

It does that on real SIG frames as well...maybe not as pronounced as an airsoft frame. On my Tyson's and Herndron frame the lights never fit well. They actually started to come loose after about a 1000 or so rounds. I had one were the screw in the polymer frame developed a cracked. Same with the 610's...it didnt mount well at all and leaves a nice scratch on the frame.

AMP-180

Random photos...these are ProWin v2's with plates from some of my old magazines (they don't feed any more so I figured it'll be interesting to see them used again on my airsoft magazines). Long ago, some of my AR15 uppers could only shoot .223 Remington and not 5.56, so the magazine was marked .223. My original Colt Sporter actually came with a UI magazine...seem I also liked Adventure Line as I have a ton of those. Out dated but I love my SPR's. These aren't very good airsoft guns, but I mostly shoot at empty tomato cans in my back yard these days which they seem to be more than capa

If you're getting them just for looks, then I think you'll be okay with the Ready Fighter version. In general, I stopped using Marui's R magazines during games.

I had the Ready Fighter version - the threads that hold the screw inside the upper shell stripped off after a while. I'm not certain if it was due to the extension as I've had the threads stripped off on other P226R magazines before from "normal" use, but the extra weight probably didn't help. I stopped using after that as I found no functional advantage using it (it's fine if you're just getting it for looks). The threads in all of my E2 magazines have held together just fine, but the extension appears as though it won't fit on the E2.

ARMS sold their #22 rings as a pair...not sure if one is designed for the front and the other for the back, but the throw lever on one of the rings is always reverse of the other and it looked odd when they both pointed the same direction. Notice how the levers oppose one another (the only important thing I was told is to make sure it's aligned with the tube): Again, completely irrelevant for airsoft, but someone might have sold you two front rings...I don't know for sure

Not that it makes a least bit of difference in the airsoft world, but it looks like you have two front rings installed (the rear ring is also a front ring...it looks like something strange is going on?). I think your scope is OK, but real Mk12 scopes (as well as Mk262 target knobs) are ITAR so be careful. Looks nice.

I personally do not like those mounts. Laser Products and Surefire made the M26 mount that was specifically designed for the Colt SMG...they come up for sale on eBay now and then, and they're relatively cheap. You can attach a Surefire 676 light to an A15 adapter, which attaches to the M26. I have the same setup and works great, but I attach it to an M20 mount since I don't have an SMG.

Not sure if you're trying to make a replica of the real one, but here's a photo of the production "LE" version for your reference (the commercial version didn't look like this). Note that most of the lower furniture is A2 (e.g. lower receiver, castle nut, grip, etc.), with the only difference being the aluminum stock from Colt's Sporter carbines. As for the upper, it looks like some production versions has the bayonet lug intact on the front sight base as seen below, but most appears to consistently have the 6-hole hand guards. Again, if you're trying for a close replica, I think what you

In my opinion the grip is fine - there seems to be no "correct" one as there are plenty of photos of the real gun with various grips factory installed (A1, A2, etc.).

Not for nothing, but Mk12's are generally used with "mid-range" scopes which are a bit shorter...the one in Ivan's photo looks more like a long range scope. "Mid-range" scopes usually have turrets that are already set to 5.56/77gr or something similar. This is my NAVSPEC RECON scope made by Night Force...it's a "middle range" scope, shorter than Leupold's LR/T's. I also have a TS-30A2, both are extremely effective. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/leMongelo/Misc/DSCF0352_zps83295d5b.jpg~original

Not for nothing, but my unmodified Marui P226R has been working without significant failure since 2005. I eventually broke the valve knocker and split two original magazines, as Fireknife has mentioned. Otherwise, it's a very well made pistol...the newer p226e2 has a few small improvements so go with that. Hope this helps.

Don't let it bother you...there's no shame in using a kit. There's only a few us that are truly talented (i.e. renegadecow, aac, etc...) that are making unique pieces. We're basically all using kits...we collect pre-made parts, real gun or otherwise, and assemble them together. Sure some parts are hard to get, sure real gun parts are often nicer looking (one could say that the GB-Tech Mod 0 Deluxe kit is a pretty nice and difficult kit to get), sure they require modifications to fit, but in the end it's all a collection of pre-made parts assembled into something that's generally been done

I'm certainly no expert, but I think LM&T marked those lowers Guardian 2000. I think Defenders are semi-only lowers? Minors...

Sorry, I’m not too sure. I look for parts for classic P-series whenever the local show comes to town. On a side note, I believe they stopped making them around 1997, so if the panels indicate something after 1997, or are completely missing, something might not be right. There are panels that don’t have the codes, but I’ve only seem them used on P229’s.

Airsoft Global has Pro-Win kits for the E2. It's relatively easy to install P226R internals into a E2 frame...you just need to swap a few parts. Pro-Win kits work great, but they tend not to look anything like the real SIG's...but only if you compare it side by side to the real gun. Otherwise, you're better off saving money and using your stock plastic slide and frame.

Price is relative...I wouldn't pay that much for a set of handguards. You can get fake or repro slim handguards for like a $1. If you know what to look for, you can very easily tell they are fakes. Four or five years ago, the very same genuine Colt take-off slim handguards were in the $0.25 bin at shows and stores. People were throwing them away and replacing them with rails. Same thing with short Colt 20 rounders marked .223/"1"...they were about a $5 each, but now about anywhere between $20 to $75 EACH based on condition and they don't come up for sale very often. The cost for Vietna

I can get you Colt slim handguards, but will not be cheap. They will run between $45 up to $75.

Your slide is a replica of the forged slide. I don't have any experience with steel Sig frames, so I don't know what they are supposed to look like. Also, I think you mixed up your breach block pins? Older P226's do not have forged steel slides, so any airsoft P226 slide without the "Stainless" mark is a replica of this type (like the PGC/Pro-Win kit that comes without the rail frame). I always, incorrectly, refer to these slides as "Carbon Steel", short for the folded steel slides and aluminum frames that P226's used to be made from. I think most people call it "forged stainless" vs. "folde

Carbon steel P226's has an internal extractor so it might be possible that your slide is a replica of those models. I actually won't recommend any steel internal or external parts, especially control parts. Unless you just like having steel for the sake of having steel, which I get. Internally, I only have a steel valve knocker still being used. Stick to the PRIME and PGC/Pro-Win kits, although I have NOT worked with kits specifically made for the E2. I've had bad experience with the non-railed G&P and Creation kits...avoid the Guarder kits at all costs. I've tried both version 1 and 2

That PGC/Pro-Win kit (the one that supposed to be a replica of the carbon steel slide) is functionally outstanding, although the second batch of PRIME kit's are just as good...a very slight functional edge to PGC/Pro-Win. HOWEVER, aesthetically that kit has all kinds of problems - PGC might have used some sort of "franken SIG" as a base for it. FYI, the carbon steel P226's uses a double roll pin to secure the breach block. PGC gives you an option to replicate it instead of the solid steel pin that's found on the stainless steel P226's. If you don't have it you can sort of modify a real one

I'm far from an expert but I enjoy collecting real gun retro AR's (unfortunately, lowers forged by a company here called NDS) and even have made airsoft replicas of them. So I am sensitive to even the smallest of details that no one cares about. Again, given that it's extremely difficult to make a good retro airsoft carbine, it's a great looking replica and can't be more closer to the real gun counterpart. I won't get into too much detail here, but the forge pattern and rear sight wheel on the upper is not correct (based on Black Rifle Vol 1 which I use a base for what is generally "correc

FYI, that is not a 604 upper. It looks more like a late sp1. The lower is also off (B&W photo helps) but still a good looking replica.