uscmCorps

You can check this thread here: "Where have the Phantom CIRAS gone?"

What's up with the 90mph OD Green Tape? Just curious.

Just caught it on the front page...

Interesting...

An ACOG replica would look pretty hot on that rail I reckon.

I don't have a pic off hand but here's the way both the knee and elbow pads work. As you can see from the pic below, the black part of the knee pad is what protects your knee. The tan part of the knee pad is made of hard and rugged plastic and is stitched onto the black part. You can even see the stitch line on the tan plastic going around the periphery of the plastic with about a 2/3" or 3/4" border around the edge. This border is significant. The pocket for the knee pads that is stitched onto the front of the pants' knee area, has a hole in the front center of the pocket.

Sadly, with the amount of hours I work, finding good daylight time to take some decent outdoor pics, is nigh impossible. So these pics will have to do for now. My version of the VLTOR M4K so far with custom 12.5" barrel: The two piece steel outer barrel was originally made by Guarder. I bought an extra front section for the outer barrel which I had turned down and a new 14mm negative thread cut on the tip. So now I can switch between a 14.5" length (traditional M4 length) and 12.5" length (VLTOR M4K length barrel) whenever I choose. Still a work in pr

You can try sinching the belt tighter like BigAl suggested. However that solution didn't really work for me either as I found that the accessories attached to the belt (drop leg holster/dump pouches) and sometime the chest rig itself would encourage the battle belt to slide down. Perhaps it's just the way Im built. Anyway, I bought a pai of tactical suspenders like these, however, any harness/yoke type webbing that is molle compatible will work to hold the belt up. Head over to your local surplus store. There should be quite a few cheap options available to you. And you can wear the webbin

CNC stands for "Computer Numerical Control". What it basically means is that, any part that is fabricated via CNC process, is actually made by being machined using a computer assisted lathe and/or mill. Most metal airsoft parts are not produced via CNC and are made by pouring molten metal into a steel mold. When the metal is cooled it is brought out of the mold and with minimal clean up, the part is essentially finished. CNC on the other hand, typically starts off with the machinist taking a block of metal, and using the computer and machinery to chisel away at the block of metal until it

In general, Deans connectors are better overall. They have less resistence and take up very little space. In all of my Crane and Vltor stocks I use Deans. Actually, I use Deans on all my guns regardless of whether or not space is an issue. For example, on my 6 position stock I have a battery strapped to the stock. I use Deans connectors there too as it's less noticable. Deans FTW!

Hey Joker!

You might want to read through this thread from the beginning. This appears to be a somewhat common problem.

Crye Combat... direct from Crye. I think they're out of stock now. I know the sales rep there quite well. Apparently they're actually quite a small business, not a huge manufacturing company spitting these out. So their production runs typically sell out a few weeks after they're available as they don't produce that much beyond that which is made for large volume contracts. They sometimes have some stock left but those are usually odd sizes (i.e. extremes in the sizing range). I have a new spare set of medium Crye Combat Shirt and Pants in Medium that I was going to sell. Might throw

True... true. The M4 pouches are from DiamondBack Tactical (BattleLab M4/M16 Single Mag). Can't recall which pistol pouches I'm using. I've got several different types from various manufacturers. The small pouch on the chest (next to the pistol pouches) is from Tactical Tailor and is their Strobe/Compass Pouch. The chest rig is a BHI Recon Strike Chest Rig (in Khaki), although I have since switched it to a Eagle Industries MOLLE Style Rhodesian Recon Vest in Multicam which my BHI chest rig was a copy of. For longer days of gaming I typically use a Eagle Ind. CIRAS in mul

Wow... and they have some nice looking stuff too. That MC Battle Belt and ACU Direct Action Shirt are especially nice. Shame. From ICE Tactical's site: I like how they accept Paypal... but their expected delivery time is 8 weeks. Which makes it just outside of the allowed amount of time that you can file a dispute with Paypal and therefore you'd be SOL in getting your money back. The same thing happened to me with this company: Recce Gear. Took my $$ and after the amount of time I had to dispute the transaction, never returned my emails. Hypothetically... you could buy

The G&P Crane stocks are my favorite of the AEG Crane stocks currently out there. They come with their own special buffer tube that have slots cut in the sides to accomodate the G&P Crane type batteries. If you buy the G&P Crane stock with the 9.6V battery option (which I recommend), the 9.6V battery is a 2200mah NiMH, which means it should last you a full day of gaming. Here's a link to their tutorial on how to install the Crane stock. The G&P crane stock will work on a TM stock buffer tube, but the TM tube won't work with the G&P battery without heavy modific

I love the simplicity and especially the bushmaster receiver, Toquikforsilver! Which company made that receiver? Is it a Guarder Receiver?

HBC, I'm not usually a fan of compacts... but wow... that's hot.

For future reference, you may want to ask these types of questions in the Newbie Section of the forum. You're less likely to get flamed that way.

HiCaps: Fill them with BBs. Wind the gear at the base until you hear a "click". It's a very different sound than the regular winding up sound (and it does take a while to fully wind it up, but you'll know it when you get there). At that point the Hicap's internal spring is fully wound and you should be able to get a good 150+ rounds out of the mag before having to rewind the gear again. Sometimes you can empty an entire mag on one wind... but not often. MidCaps: They work the same as LoCaps/StandardCaps... except the BBs are staggered in a zigzag formation allowing more BBs to fill th

What are you using on the bottom of those mags? Can't tell if they're zip-ties, white shoe laces or very light colored paracord. Could just be the lighting of course.

I recall reading on Airsoft-News.EU that someone was offering spare parts for Japanese guns. Found the info: Hope that helps! -Alex

Some HK retailers, such as Redwolf and WGC will remove the trademarks from a complete gun either using a dremel or a piece of plastic card super glued on top of the trademarks. From what I know, Redwolf will not remove trademarks from parts not installed on guns. Your best bet is to email the sales/customer service dept. of the HK retailer you were wanting to buy from and ask them directly how they would treat the trademarks if you bought gun X from them. Personally, if it's ever in doubt, I would ask beforehand rather than receive the package and get a nasty surprise.

Trasher! Another kick @$$ pic! Aren't you geting tired of getting +1s for all these awesome pics!?!! lol Well done.

I was simply noting legality. In a State where a blaze orange tip is required, I was always under the impression that the entire 1/2" to 1" of the gun's muzzle must be painted orange... not just the outer barrel. I assumed that regardless of his particular location, the simple fact that he had orange on the outer barrel, may imply that that law applies for him. Hence, perhaps it did come with the slide also painted and he just chose to remove it from the slide but leave the barrel orange... which he stated he did do in a later post. As for waving it around, I 100% agree with you that chanc