uscmCorps

Can't recall exactly. The owner of Centurian Arms is an active operator and instructor with the Teams. He's away right now. Waiting for him to come back. Pinch bolt? You mean it clamps onto the barrel nut? Not sure I understand what you're asking. What I like about the new Centurion Arms rail is that it is light (felt lighter than the Geisselle), skinny like my MidWest Industries Gen II SS tubes, low profile, has integrated limited rotation QD sling points. What is not seen in most of the pics is that the dedicated accessory mounts keep all accessories super low profile and add th

Fantastic! Are those 10-8 sights RS 10-8 sights? Did they need any modifications to work? I wish a company like Nova would come out with the NHC 1 pc Mainspring Housing/Magwell. I still need to recrown my NHC outer barrel.

Wait till you guys see the new Centurian Arms 5.56 Slick rail and its attachments. One of the nicest new rails I've seen in a while. Got to check it out first hand at Shot Show.

Thanks for the review. The piece under the rear sight ... what is the function of it? Is it a bar spring to hold the rear sight under tension and stay in place? I'm not too surprised the slide is pot metal vs aluminum for the asking price. And as for the cheap sights, most RS shooters are adamant that the RS Glock sights should without a doubt be the first thing that's replaced on real Glocks so this VFC ironically follows that trend. Regarding the slide smoothness (or lack thereof), did you try breaking it in or looking to see where the binding was occurring?

LOL!

Talking to the KAC reps a couple Shot Shows back, there was a request by MIL to have rails near the rear as some units like to place lasers at the rear of the rail and save real estate up front for other accessories and/or support grip.

I know who you are now.

Good review. Thanks for posting it!

If you're having problems with DYTac products, you can email the CEO direct at info@dytac.hk Tell them I referred you to them. They should be able to get you taken care of.

Don't know about their KAC T1 QD mounts since I've always used real ones. The samples I checked out a year or so ago seemed fine.

Just got confirmation from DYTac. Their receivers are 100% compatible and made to the same spec as the G&P receivers. Same OEM as G&P's I believe but built with their own personal molds (that are the same spec as G&P's). G&P wouldn't share their molds (can't blame them as it puts a lot of extra wear on the molds doing that) and the OEM didn't want to risk the relationship with G&P. So DYTac paid for their own molds to be made. Good news if you ever want to mix and match between the two brands.

If the Samson rail doesn't come with a barrel nut and requires you to use your own, the OEM LM4 barrel nut should be fine.

I know the owner of DYTac personally. At one point DYTac had approached G&P for parts etc, but the G&P wholesale price point was so high that DYTac had to make there own parts mostly from Chinese factories to their own specs. I do know that G&P have helped DYTac with some polymer products including DYTac's new Midcaps which are similar to Troy's mags (but I like DYTac's style a little better personally). Since making their own guns, the components are mostly their own, though the designs are mostly derived from replicating what others have done. The only part I'm not clear on are t

The DYTac guns are more like the G&P guns than than most other manufacturer guns. There's no bolt lock function but the charging handle does pull back the false bolt plate and there's enough friction there that it'll stay in place till you're done with it. I do like the hop up setup on the DYTac guns a little more though. They come with H-nubs by default and have very decent accuracy.

It is indeed. The dipping is decent. The KAC panels are RS. It's a nice pointable gun and I've been really impressed with the performance and accuracy.

Crappy cell phone pic:

Anything is possible I guess. All I know is I've been running my PDRs like this for almost 16 months now. I haven't burned anything out yet.

I run my PDRs exclusively on 11.1V 1300mh batteries. Good ROF and trigger timing.

There's a few ways to do it. I initially tried to do it with a dremel but found that to be too hard to control for the clean straight lines needed and the cuts were too thick. The way I did my initial tip was to first file off all the excess of the screw head until the original slot for the flat head screw driver was removed. Then using a thin square file I cut grooves into the screw head and created a checkerboard pattern. The finer/smaller the pattern the finer the resulting stipple. Takes some trial and error but not too hard.

Thanks! Yup a screw head with the pattern cut into it used with a soldering iron. For me, the actual stippling is surpringly the easy part. It takes some time to do, but what is the most time consuming and requires the most artistry and skill is the recontouring of the frame. That takes 80% of my time per frame. One frame usually takes me around 8-9 hours to do properly from start to finish.

Lacking a more appropriate thread ... and since this is based off a Glock platform ... A friend had asked me to do a stipple job on his VFC Glock and before doing that I had recently made a new stippling tip. So last night I tested it out on one of my spare beater ATPs that I often use as one of several backups for when I go to games. Here's a side by side comparison to a more or less standard ATP. • 10-8 Performance Rear sights. • Finger groove removal. • Frame recontouring. • Trigger guard undercut, smoothed out, rounded, and stippled. • 360° Grip stippling (Back strap is sti

Frogfish and other RS shooters are explaining that on some RS AR15's/M4's, the right side of the selector post sometimes has a notch that allows the shooter and other shooters to visually identify the selector condition of the gun. Most AEGs do not have this as most are not ambi capable. Therefore the majority of AEGs people are familiar with have fake right side selector plates that are often, permanently set to the semi auto position (usually by the AEG manufacturer). This is a limitation of most AEGs and is not indicative of how a RS AR15 operates. hawaiianjuggernaut appears to be inferring

Not entirely true across the board. Some civilian ARs have auto markings on semi-auto only guns. For example, Spikes Tactical and LWRCi's AR15 guns all have auto markings even though the selector doesn't rotate 180°. Also, the right side selector notch is visible on some civilian AR15s. Just depends on the brand and/or supplier of the selector. For example, my 5.56mm PredatARs both came with indicator notches on the right side of the selector (that is before I promptly changed them to KAC scalloped selectors).

Who ever attempted to make one should be able to design a decently light one. I've fired a real one several times, most recently at Shot Show this year. I was shocked by how light that thing felt. May I ask where you ordered that from? I was under the impression all the stores were sold out.

Interesting. So I took a closer look at the DYTac 556K brake and the Madbull SF Mini can ... So as -wigs- pointed out the only way to get the Madbull SF Mini Can to lock into the 556K brake, I'll need to elongate the bottom groove under the 556K brake and cut a groove around the circumference of the 556K brake so that the Mini Can's bearings can lock into the brake.