[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

I'm torn about this. As much as I'd love accurate trademarks, I've not had the best luck with upgrading frames. And my guns are working so well right now, I'm nervous about messing with a good thing.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

FYI: The Crimson Trace S&W M&P Laser Grip is compatible with the Marui M&P. No modifications are needed since it doesn't possess those extra fins on the inside which would normally need to be dremeled off for RS grips to work.

 

 

[ASG CZ SP-01 "Shadow" GBB]

Whats the recoil like on GG ? Video not working for me :   ( .

The original link is wrong. Here:

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

Just a quick update. I installed three Tango Down/Vickers base pads on my TM mags. I had to use a dremel to enlarge the opening for access to the fill valve. Not the prettiest job, but it works and function testing all the mags they still performed same as before ... just look more unique.

 

 

Initially I used a drill but the size of the opening was big enough that it encroached into the original base pads locking tab opening. So I ended up merging the two anyway.

 

Do you guys think people would be interested in legally licensed versions of these for the M&P and Glock?

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

Thought you guys might find this interesting. I had some spare Tango Down / Vickers M&P base pads (RS) laying around. I figured I'd give them another try on my TM M&P. They are a very tight fit ... but they do fit. You'd need to use a rubber mallet to get them on, and would have to drill a hole for the fill valve, however, once fitted they should work fine with the Marui M&P. YMMV and I still have to drill the holes but I thought this was a cool way to add another interesting accessory to these guns that was somewhat inexpensive to achieve.

 

[Glock Picture Thread]

A tiny bit of extra info: the fake X300 always has the serialnr.: A13168 

Oh snap! Good catch there. You'd think the counterfeiters would take a little more effort to do random serial numbers and fix the little details. At least this way you know if you've got an authentic product or a replica. I know quite a few people who work at Surefire and they often get sent items for warranty only to discover that the item they thought was real is in fact replica. If a deal is too good to be true, it probably is. I only buy from approved dealers. I will say that the fake x300 I have is the best SF replica I've encountered out of any fake SF products. It's shockingly ok.

[Glock Picture Thread]

My old gen X300 (110 lumens) has filled "blades" and outlined text, newer ones (IIRC, 170 lumens non-ultra) have all outlined logos.

 

I've bought a lot of x300's over the years. From the early production batches through to the last production before they were discontinued by Surefire. I've never seen them with filled blades.

 

The easiest ways to see the difference at a glance between a real X300 and a replica are a solid logo (replica) vs an outlined logo (real). Also, all the replicas didn't bother adding the second pin hole that's been standard on the x300 line which allowed the user to add the included cotter pin to lock the battery compartment latch from accidentally releasing:

 

 

Here's a side by side with a few of the x300s I have laying around. You'll notice even though the logo font has changed a little over the years, it's always been outlined:

 

 

Also the LED diode is different. On the replica the LED diode is visibly square and the reflector is more milky silver. On the real x300 the diode square is less visible and the reflector is more chrome:

 

 

The resulting beam is also telling:

 

Real x300 (below right)

• Clean concentrated wide beam

• Warmer color (easier to pick up color contrast in low/no light)

• Consistent wide flood / spill with even taper to the edge of usability

• Good throw (usable distance)

 

Replica x300 (below left)

• Narrower beam

• "Cooler" Beam color - very white

• Flood / spill has some aberrations and extra halos/rings

• Slightly shorter throw.

 

 

Now that said, the quality of the fake x300's I've seen have been very decent. The only thing that I've personally noticed to be distracting when using it for training or gaming are the additional halo(s). But none of the differences I've noted here would be deal breakers for most people. Personally, I still think you got a good deal for everything you received but that ultimately comes down to you the buyer. For the price, it seems very reasonable and you have a good usable / functional setup. So real or not, you still made out ok on the deal (IMHO).

[Glock Picture Thread]

Ace1Arms are actually still making them, just not openly doing so. They're selling them in regions that are harder to enforce. Such as Japan and other countries. The slides that are OEM buy gunsmodify for RWA are far superior in both quality, function and installation. But they also have a price point that reflects that. Basically you get what you pay for.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

Regarding the S&W Pro Core, part of me wishes they went with the non-ported version as I just think the ported one is the ugliest variant they offer. But then it may be in the gun's best interest as shaving that extra weight may mean less sluggish performance when used with a RMR optic.

 

Here's hoping they make a regular M&P 9Pro or 9L.

 

I've only purchased detonator slides in the past. How does the nova brand compare?

Detonator has better finish but requires break in. Nova require zero break in and if you rub some silicone oil into the slide (wipe off excess) it'll wear less and be less matte.

[First Impressions: Tokyo Marui M4 MWS GBBR]

At least the upper is not a three piece design like KWA.

It's worth pointing out that the KWAs no longer come with three piece uppers.

[Glock Picture Thread]

Rear sight is hand pressed into the dovetail. There's a set screw that is screwed into the top of the rear sight which when screwed in, pushes down a hidden plate beneath the sight. That pushes the hidden plate against the face of the dovetail which in turn pushes the rear sight upwards locking it in place. In a nutshell, you don't need a tool to install the rear sight other than an Allen/hex key to install the set screw, and you have a truly windage adjustable rear sight that is secure and functional.

[Glock Picture Thread]

Anyone get the PTS UNITY ATOM YET? REVIEW PLX.

 

As much as I dislike the WE... the G19 is sexy af,

I spent today helping PTS get their guns ready for display at Shot Show and had to install three of the ATOMs. They went together surprisingly cleanly. Very little if any break in. Not cheap but you get a surprisingly decent amount for it and it's OEM by Gunsmodify. Also the rear sight is 100% left + right adjustable. That plus all the other miscellaneous additions (rubber mag baseplate, tightbore inner barrel, etc), it's a pretty good deal.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

I've had a problem with a couple of my mags (2 out of 10). Tried the same fixes but never tried the gasket maker permanent seal. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

Just a quick tip. You may have noticed the grip plug at the bottom rear of the frame that holds the removable back strap in place can get loose and freely rotates. For general plinking it might not be a concern, but if you like to skirmish with the gun, and given the very limited access to OEM TM parts, you probably don't want to loose it. A simple non-permanent fix I've done on all my guns is to tightly wrap the locking nub of the grip plug with some PTFE tape. I use about an 8" strip (more or less) of PTFE tape. The grip plug will be tight as you insert it into the frame (which is good) and it'll be somewhat hard to turn the plug, but once done and locked in place it'll stay in place.

 

 

The real grip plug in a real M&P is a serious PITA to remove. It's usually difficult to turn and even harder to extract. After this modification to your TM M&P, the TM grip plug still isn't anywhere near as difficult as the real deal to remove. But it'll keep itself from falling out. You may need to rewrap the grip plug occasionally if you like to take that plug out all the time but at least you won't loose the plug.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

I have some prototype plugs. They're okay. The fit needs tweaking a little but they work. No idea when they will, if ever, come to market. Hopefully someone else makes them. I don't believe the RS plugs would fit.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

This evening I did a little more testing. Compared the KSC "Perfect" 0.3g BBs to some other bags I had on hand: G&G Bio 0.25g White BBs, and Bioval 0.27g Clear BBs. The results for these two other BB types were night and day compared to the KSC's:

 

 

Both G&G and Bioval grouped quite tightly. Perhaps the G&G 0.25g Bio BB's had a little tighter dot shaped group. The Bioval 0.27g Clear BB's were slightly more horizontally spread but they still grouped on the whole quite flat. Some deviation in the groupings could still be attributed to me, as the guns were only fixed in place via the weapon light rail and there was a degree of flex in the frame (which I tried my best to minimize). More importantly, the current setups with either G&G 0.25g White Bio's and Bioval 0.27g Clears did not result in any random fliers after repeated testing. That alone was a huge relief.

 

I also tried upgrading the inner barrels to brand new Nineball 6.03mm tightbore barrels. The groupings actually worsened compared to the stock TM inner barrel. This is obviously based solely on limited testing at 10 yards and closer, so YMMV. But that was a little surprising (and disappointing to see). The groups not only grew in size (at least doubled), but I saw a lot more random fliers with up to 3" of deviation. I have not tried a different rubber yet. I switched back to the stock TM inner barrel and the groups went back to sub-1" groups at 6 yards.

 

Anyway, as is, both BB brands/types benched very satisfactorily with the stock internals, and although were still not quite the 0.5" group I had hoped to achieve, the results were good enough for what I intended to use the guns for (handgun fundamentals). I then used the TM M&P 9L at 9 yards, freestyle (standing, w/ both hands), shooting slow fire at a pair of 2" dots, 17 rounds per dot:

 

 

For now I'm quite pleased with what the guns and BB ammo are capable of. My at home practice is back on track! I'm still going to check out the BBastard BBs though. If only to see how they compare with what I've currently got. The objective being to make the guns shoot as true as possible so I can fine tune my own shooting without wondering if it's the gun/ammo or me messing up. Thanks for the feedback so far gents!

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

I saw alot of nubs and flash on alot of the bbs.

This is exactly what my experience has been with it. When you switched over to BBastard, did you stick with the 0.3's?

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

Traditionally I've used 0.3g BBs for handgun fundamental practice. But it seems that 0.28's are popular with a lot of people. For precision practice shooting I think I'll stick with 0.3g BBs. Thanks!

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

I'm meeting with Chris at Shot Show next month. So I've asked him to bring over a couple bags of BBastard. What weight do you guys like?

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

I don't think at that distance expecting that level of accuracy from round plastic balls is unrealistic. What my friend does with his TM stock hicapa is a testament to what you can get out of a BB. It's a question of whether or not the platform I'm using can be tuned to achieve it. Yes I have metal slides on three out of the four guns. Mainly because I originally bought it for gaming and wanting them to somewhat resemble my real guns, but my goals have shifted. I have a few tightbores on hand. So I'll give them a try. But when it comes to the newest crop of TM pistols I've had really decent performance out of the stock rubber.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

So I've mainly been using my TM M&Ps for supplemental handgun training for my real steel shooting. My buddy is a grand master in USPSA (essentially US IPSC) and he uses an airsoft hicapa daily to supplement training for his RS 2011 pistol. He and I will still hit the live fire range together 2-3 times a week for a couple practice sessions and a competition but I've been needing extra work on one handed shooting (both left and right) and during USPSA I use my RS M&Ps ... so I decided to use my TM M&Ps. I've used my airsoft M&Ps for several consecutive days now, and it's definitely helped my RS shooting. However, it occurred to me that I should probably test the gun's accuracy because even though it *seems* accurate, you never know.

 

Today I "benched" my four TM M&Ps. Basically I placed the M&P's weapon light rail into a weaver mount vice which itself is bolted to a table. Mags were gased up, and left to warm to room temperature (approximately 65° F). Mags were loaded with 17 rounds of KSC 0.3g "Perfect" BBs. Hop-ups were preset for these BBs such that they shoot relatively flat with a little bit of lift and effective out to 30 yards. An X was drawn onto a piece of letter/A4 paper and that X was used as a point of reference (as the sights weren't perfectly lined up) just to see approximately how it groups. Annoyingly, the polymer TM used for the frame is pretty flexible, so I had to lock my hands and arms in place and try to introduce as little human error as possible. Anyway, I tested each gun, firing 17 rounds, slow fire from the bench at 6 yards. The results are below:

 

^^^ TM M&P VTAC w/ TM Slide, stock internals, benched at 6 yards, 17 rounds slow fire, 0.3g KSC Perfect BBs. ^^^

 

^^^ TM M&P w/ Nova 10-8 Slide, stock internals, benched at 6 yards, 17 rounds slow fire, 0.3g KSC Perfect BBs. ^^^

 

^^^ TM M&P w/ Detonator 10-8 Slide, stock internals, benched at 6 yards, 17 rounds slow fire, 0.3g KSC Perfect BBs. ^^^

 

^^^ TM M&P w/ Detonator 9L Slide, stock internals, benched at 6 yards, 17 rounds slow fire, 0.3g KSC Perfect BBs. ^^^

 

Like I mentioned, the X on the paper was just for a rough point of reference, I wasn't terribly concerned about hitting the X, more interested to see how each gun grouped. For airsoft plinking and gaming they're ok. But for handgun fundamentals their accuracy are a little lacking. My buddy was saying that for his training he requires an airsoft gun to shoot a consistent 1/2" grouping at 9 yards with zero fliers. That way if any BBs are shot outside what he's aiming at, he knows it's due to his human error, not the gun's. He then draws a 1.75" circle on a sheet of paper and practices a variety of drills with his airsoft at 9 yards, making sure to keep all hits within that 1.75" circle. So here's why I'm not terribly enthused about my TM M&Ps, they all shot okay but certainly not the 0.5" groupings I had hoped for. Plus there were a flier or two with all the guns which for me is a bigger concern. And this was at 6 yards too.

 

Another thing that might have skewed the results are the BBs. These KSC 0.3g "Perfect" BBs are far from perfect. I've had them about three years stored in a dry and cool watertight container. But while examining them, I noticed these BBs have a lot of flash still on them and other surface inconsistencies. So that certainly doesn't help. I guess next I'll have to buy a new bag of 0.3g BBs (I was thinking maybe KWA, G&G or Biovals all of which are available locally) and then retest to see how they compare. If the results are about the same another thing I can do is change the inner barrel. Truthfully, I think it just might be the limitations of the gun. The M&P has a lot more play in the parts than a hicapa.

 

At this point, with my end use for the guns, I'm a lot less concerned about looks as I am about precision accuracy and overall performance. I'll report back when I get more data which will probably be next week (at a LEO vehicle class the next two days).

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

Actually just a standard full lenth slide would do, i have no need for fancy cuts and such. ( yet)

They already offer full length slides without cuts.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

 

That's pretty cool. Do you have much input with the guys at Nova? I'd love to see them do:

• full size 9 slides with the ATEi slide cuts but no 10-8 markings.

• 9L slides with and without the ATEi slide cuts

• and most importantly, rear sights with a proper U notch. Current Nova U notches are cut WAYYYY too low (I posted about this before).

[Glock Picture Thread]

Get a Timberwolf Frame and you can guid yourself a Salient Arms Blu. That's pretty much all SAI did. Timberwolf frame + trigger guard undercuts + stippling for the frame.

[Tokyo Marui M&P9]

The Marui M&P is one of those rare guns that really don't have to be upgraded. It works great right out of the box. The only thing I'd suggest is a Nova metal slide kit. But that isn't something you absolutely have to do because I've yet to hear of any Marui M&P guns getting KIA when run on green gas/propane.