uscmCorps

Anyone get a quote on that?

The markings face forwards. And that's how he has it mounted on his gun.

Those Troy replicas look mounted fine to me. I've never seen them mounted so that they fold forwards, including looking at RS guns.

Well, to be fair, a lot of it depends on which piece of the Multicam pattern you use. Because Multicam uses such a low repeat pattern (in other words, Multicam's pattern repeats every 4-5 feet, whereas, most common camos repeat every foot) you could end up with a 2" x 1" square that looks pretty unflattering. However, the entire pattern as a whole works. If you look at the helmet as a whole, it isn't bad at all. Neither is the one on the Military Moron site. An entire gun in Water Transfer might look really good! Personally, I'm just going to send a crane stock, vertical grip, Eotech, an

But, with several layers of automotive clear coat.

Not at all. It's just what this thread needed. If it was cr@p, then maybe it would have wasted space... but it's not. You did an excellent job!

Bare in mind that SKD's "Combat Shirt" and "Combat Pants" are not the same as Crye's version of their "Combat" Shirt and Pants. SKD's is simply a different style of BDUs and does not use Crye's patented elbow and knee pads ala Ghost Recon:AW. AFAIK, only Crye makes that style currently. Also, Crye's Combat Clothing design is copyrighted by them. As for the Crye Combat Shirt... it is still available at their website, though quite expensive. When buying it, I'd recommend going a little larger than your normal size. It's a pretty tight fit. Here's me in my Crye Combat Shirt and Pants.

Why don't you check out SKDTac.com? They have real Crye Multicam clothing (the material by Crye, the tailoring by a third party). I hear good things about them.

Why would the same color principles not apply to paint and water transfers? The Crye fabric doesn't have any special/magical properties to it that changes in different conditions. The reason why it works so well is because of the colors themselves are balanced and layed out in such a way that under different lighting conditions and environements, it just blends in very well. The same color principle is applied to the water transfers, and therefore should behave no different than the Crye fabric itself.

The newer company that does it says it's because the other company wasn't fully licensed to work with fire arms. The new color looks... hideous! Yikes! Yeah, Crye doesn't do the Hydrographic transfer themselves. They sell it to distributors to do it. Also, the company in Ohio isn't as discerning as Crye is about working with customers outside of the US, so you could easily send it there. The only concern being... are you going to be charged again for VAT!?!!!

And let's not forget that the only significant difference between the 551/552 and the 511/512 is that the 55X series are NV capable. So unless you see yourself using NV anytime soon, you may as well save yourself some money and just get a 51X series EoTech. I've heard some people argue that the 51X series EoTech's don't have "Military/LE use only" markings. Such is not the case. Both the 51X and 55X have those markings. The only aesthetic difference is the ommitance of the NV button on the 51X series and slightly different buttons. That's it!

It's more durable than straight Krylon. Perhaps even more durable than if you sprayed Krylon and then a clear coat. They use an automotive clear coat after the hydrographic process to lock in the pattern. It's pretty durable and one could consider it permanent but bear in mind that most automotive products aren't constantly being handled. They're typically bolted onto a vehicle and any wear or tear the finish sees is due to environmental elements. Directly handling a product will last a very very long time, but eventually, you will see wear spots. There wear originally two Multicam c

I like your paint job better.

Those Strider/Buck SMFs are surprisingly good for $50 aren't they? Mine is my day to day carry knife. Plus at that price, if I lost it I wouldn't be too bumed. Mathub, beautiful GSR Dude!

The threading out the barrel doesn't appear to be parallel with the top of the slide. Is the thread of, or is it actually not attached to the gun?

How does it compare to the G&P ones in terms of quality?

lol... Doh! lol Serves me right for not re-reading my comments before posting!

Thanks for the info BTW!

Well first you got to ask yourself what do you plan on using it for more of? Skirmishing, or plinking? If you were going to just shoot some targets for fun, I'd go with a shotty that uses shells because they're just tons of fun. Like the Tanaka 870 or Maruzen 870. If you're going to be using it for skirmishing, I'd use something that doesn't use shells, like the CA870 by G&P, the M3 Super 90 by Tokyo Marui, or the Marushin M500. Then again, if you were dead set on getting a shotgun that uses shells for skirmishing, that's still possible as they're fine shotguns, but you'll probabl

The ones you've seen in this thread are all hand painted. Pretty incredible 'eh!?!! They've more patience than I do.

Yes you do need to cut the back of the receiver stock tube down. You will also have to dremel it a little to make room for the wires to extend into the tube. As for whether or not it would work on a full stock after the modifications, that I'm not sure. Regarding the wires the C&P Crane stock come with, they're for you to change your gun to use Deans connectors instead of whatever connector your gun came with. Aside from being a better connector, it is also much smaller and consumes less space. Therefore giving the stock with the batteries installed enough internal space to collapse th

What do you guys use as a sling on the Marushin M500? I recently bought this from blooboi, which I'm really looking forward to using in CQB, but I know I'll need a sling for it, for when I switch to my side arm. I was looking through several real steel slings for M500s, but most of them require a special sling swivel installed on the plug on the end piece of the magazine tube, which I would imagine (given that that is where we load the BBs) would not be an option. So I was wondering what your opinions are on this? BTW, I'm enjoying my M500 a lot... even more than my TM M3

What did you use hot glue on? It looks like you used hot glue instead of solder. Say it isn't so!!! As for the locking bolt... VFC's HK416 also has this feature. Has anyone bought the Star M4s yet? I'm curious how they are... especially relative to TM, CA, and G&P.

Are the ACUs made by "Propper" real? I think they are. I didn't even know they sold copies of ACUs. I mean, what's the point? ACUs are about the same price as any other off the shelf camo pattern like woodland. And a set of real top and bottom ACUs together are still cheaper than one real Multicam top. It's been my experience that the replica BDUs tend to fade very fast. Buying the real ACUs will last you for years, instead of 5 or 6 washings with the replicas. It's a small but worthwhile investment.

They usually don't start off overpriced... they just get bid up like crazy. People pay what they think something is worth. The way I bid on anything on ebay is simple, I bid the absolute maximum amount that I am willing to pay for it (and not 1 cent more). If I get outbid... then it wasn't meant to be. A lot less frustrating that way. Alpha, I'll keep you in mind.