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Zmarre

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Posts posted by Zmarre

  6. 1911 Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted · Edited by Zmarre

    And Zmarre. The thumb safety comes out much easier if you still have the mainspring housing ON the gun. If you remove the mainspring housing and leaf spring, the hammer/sear/disconnector flop around and make it annoyingly difficult to slide the thumb safety out.

     

    Aha! Thanks, I will definitely remember this for the next time.

     

    The stock Prime Custom CDP II slide is NOT sanded, it's bead-blasted.

     

    I fairly believe you. But it's a fact that it really *does* look sanded to me and a lot of other people. It's covered with very thin longitudinal strokes, like someone passed over it with a small grid of sanding paper. Maybe it's the previous owner, no idea, but it really definitely looks sanded ;)

     

    He should just beadblast the frame and slide now.

     

    That has always been my backup plan for when my sanding would look terrible. But like I said, the front of the frame does look *exactly* like the slide. I can't, by any means possible, detect any difference in finish between that part and my slide. It just has a *slightly* more gloss in it, but I'm pretty sure that will be neglectible in time (read: after one skirmish)

     

    It's obviously your choice, but I'm just not sure why you chose the gorgoeus two-tone CDP kit and not an actual stainless kit to start with.

     

    That, sir, was my actual plan. But I got this gun second hand, a lot cheaper than buying a new WA and a metal kit of my choice. After all, I'm just a regular student with a lot of passion for airsoft in general, GBBs in particular, and love for the 1911 :)

     

    Really wasn't trying to be negative but I'd like to see your CDP end up with the best results possible.

     

    Yeah, I know. I'm learning every day from guys like you all, so don't hesitate to post, even if it isn't positive. I have a tough skin ;)

     

    So, back to my previous question: would slide stops for the Hicapa (or the TM M1911) work on my WA?

  7. 1911 Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

    wa12.jpg

     

    Still need to sand down the area around the trigger guard. After that, moving to wetsanding with a finer grid, and she's done.

     

    Why did I sand it?

     

    - because I don't like 2tone guns

    - because I didn't knew you could get the paint off with a simple oven cleaner product. Maybe on a cheap WE, but not on the "perfectly finished" Prime frame. I expect an anodizing withstanding a bit more than just some chemicals (and I work often with painted automotive parts and chemical cleaning products, but I've never seen a good painting come off)

    - because the stock Prime slide is sanded too. I even have had a lot of people on skirms asking me if I sanded that slide myself. I know someone who can beadblast, but I was afraid the smoother finish wouldn't match the slide.

    - because I'm a skirmer, and I use this pistol as primary. Last skirm this thing accidentally tumbled down *a lot* of concrete stairs. It has nicks and dents all over the place. So I'm not that concerned about "ruining a perfectly coated frame".

     

    This is my CQB beast, I'm satisfied with its performance like Bush would be satisfied with Bin Ladens head on a plate, and right now I'm a zillion times more satisfied with its looks. So I'm a happy man, whatever you say ;)

     

    Concering the thumb safety, is there a trick I have to know to get in out in one motion? I put it in the upmost position, pulled on it, fiddled with it for 15 minutes, tried to hammer it out from the otherside, still nothing, and after another ten minutes it just came out without any use of force. Tried it a second time, and it was exactly the same result. Is my safety just dumb, or am I? ^^

     

    Btw, sidequestion: do slide stops for the Hicapa also work on the M1911? I would want to buy an extended slide stop, and judging from pics they look the same, but I'm not sure.

  8. 1911 Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

    wa11.jpg

     

    Sanding the frame of my WA Kimber. Had to stop due to a sore thumb from sanding ^^ Finish is better than I'd thought, you can't distinguish the sanded parts from the stock silver parts.

     

    But before I can continue, I have a question. How on this frikkin' earth can I remove the right side safety lever?! I struggled for an hour to get it off, but I just don't see it.

  11. 1911 Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

    is the non-kimber plastic?

    if it is it looks very well indeed.

     

    Yeah, the Kimber is a full metal kit (prime if I recall correctly), but the standard all silver Colt Gov Series 70 is bog-standard WA plastic. I had a teammate once play with it for half an hour, after which I told him it was a standard plastic gun, and it took him another half an hour to believe me :)

  20. P90 Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted · Edited by Zmarre

    Anyone selling off a nice P90?

     

    Well, honestly, I am. The one in the picture just above your post. So I can add some metal to my WA.

     

    Comes with systema internals (shooting around 300FPS), two lowcaps, 8.4V Intellect battery, and a STANAG adapter (so you can use your M16 low-mid and highcaps on this one)

     

    380 lollars incl shipping to the US.

  21. 1911 Picture Thread

    in Weapons

    Posted

    Zmarre is that the WA MKIV Ser.70 magnatech? Looks like it, and I have one myself...

     

    Love the thing, but a word of caution, the silver finish on just about every part of the gun [e.g.-all the plastic parts] rubs off quite easily. sad.gif Granted, I didn't think about it, and kept it in a rather snug drop-leg, but standard usage destroyed the paint in a disappointingly short time.

     

    Jup, it's that one. It's somewhat the cheapest WA available (I wanted to use it as a base gun anyway). And I know about the chipping, I had one like this before and after two skirms it looked worse than my grandma.

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