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Everything posted by John_234

  1. You're basically putting everything on the top rail, though you can also thread some cord through the little hole on the back of the weapon. I personally want to put an MSA on the front, cord on the back and rig it for a two-point.
  2. Yeah, you could experiment with the exact light positioning too, but again, minor, minor realism issue. Maybe KWA itself could offer you better rates than normal US stores?
  3. ((Sorry about double post, didn't see the last page.)) KWA does sell nearly every part if you call the pro shop or retailers that happen to stock them. The bolt stop assembly is about $12 at the stores I'm looking at, and it comes pre-drilled for putting in the spring. Not sure if they ship to the UK, but it doesn't hurt to ask. EDIT: That said, the B.A.D. is a nice piece of kit, but if you feel it'll compromise the integrity of the bolt stop, it's perfectly doable to run the rifle without. It's mostly advantageous, IMO, to left-handed shooters and for expedited clearing of double feeds,
  4. Sweet rifle! Though, on a realism note I'm not sure the flashlight being directly beside the muzzle device is a good idea - can anybody factcheck me on that?
  5. No pics of my LM4, but I removed the barrel extension, attached a KX-3, then a top rail with a HSP Thorntail and a Surefire G2 LED. I also just bought a RA Tech 150% recoil buffer kit and a TBB, the later which I'm going to chop to 9.5'' for my SBR build. I kept the stiffer OEM spring along with the new buffer and all the spacers - is there any issue with this combination, like undue wear on the bolt catch, impact block or buffer lock? I've fired 15 BBs, tops, since the gun isn't fully built. It seems to lock open and the recoil is nice. I used the OEM spring since the bolt returns a b
  6. Well, the safety is also the decocker on the USP... The Taurus PT92 Beretta clones also have a frame mounted decocker/safety. You get the idea though. The decocker being on and the gun being racked is kinda normal in real steel, hence the surprise.
  7. The safety IS the decokcer on the 92F. I just ask, because in real steel, you'd want to put on the safety as you unload the gun and such, so it's a relatively common thing to do. Kinda odd it wears down the gun so, but I guess I'll have to avoid it when I get mine.
  8. What exactly does charging the slide with the safety on do? It's a rather routine thing to do to the gun...
  9. Thanks for the correction.
  10. I got the same can at Evike, 14mm CCW for about $40. However, this was a couple years ago, before their second store move. It's a nice can at any rate. Though it's worth pointing out that most USPs are still 14mm threaded, while SOCOMs tend to be 16mm threaded.
  11. Actually, thank you that's plenty of information. I have a G&P Mk23 suppressor that I have on hand for comparison; the KX-3 should fit just fine with that in mind.
  12. Mm. Well, I'm trying to have the amp fit into that cavity in the gun, so it takes about as much space as the stock muzzle device without poking out overly. I guess I'll have to take a look at one in a shop.
  13. Again, the Streamlight is great as well and in the US you can snag them for less than $100. One thing about the Surefire - the x300 seems momentarily discontinued due to some kind of product revision, leaving only the pricier x300 Ultra, so I'd probably wait on that. I really personally love the Inforce APL, which uses one CR123A instead of two, making for a thinner gun. Priced just a tad more than the TLR-1, itsalso polymer bodied and shorter than most lights, which makes it lightweight, and a perfect fit for guns like the Glock 19 I use as well as the somewhat bulky 92 family.
  14. Would a KX-3 or other amplifier fit in there without an adapter, if anyone knows?
  15. I've had that happen with an Element M3 on a KJW M9, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's the torch, not the weapon's rail. Personally, I'd just try to get a better light. The Inforce APL is about $110, the Streamlight TLR-1s have dropped below $100, at least for US consumer. Surefire is probably still a bit out there as far as prices go, but IMO, the M9A1s look better wearing the TLR-1 and x300 than the Insight M3 copies as well.
  16. Hmm. Well, either way once I get the RA tech tightbore, I'm going ahead with an SBR build of some kind.
  17. I just removed the barrels from my LM4. Surprisingly, despite everyone's difficulties with them on the KWA forums, I just tapped the armorer's wrench with a mallet a few times and it came off. I didn't even use a vise. Since the flashhider came off without having to use a heat gun, maybe the glue was just thin on a low-serial LM4?
  18. Ah. That's reassuring. I'll probably pick one up at some point. Being out of disposable funds means I have more time to observe quirks of the design, I guess.
  19. Sorry for not replying. I think it didn't go fully to the top position when I had the slide removed. Can't really say much now, as I gave the gun to another WE PX4 owner for parts and now run a 3rd gen G19. He still has my custom holster, though.
  20. I recently handled a PDR an Airsoft Extreme guy brought to Hollywood Sports Park here in Cali. I didn't get to fire it, and I forgot to check the serials, but it seemed very sturdy. The mag catch was much stiffer than I'd imagined, but mags locked in solidly and came out without binding, and it was fairly easy to hit the catch. Apparently it chrono'd 350 while at their shop, but 370 at HSP. I'll chalk it up to variance between chronos, but I'm not looking forward to downgrading a gun with a 10.5'' barrel just to use it in CQB. EDIT: Funny thing, the AEX guy I saw was using King Arm
  21. Yeah, I tend to put my thumb on the back of the slide with everything from a 1911 to a Glock. With a plastic-slide TM 1911, you don't want the safety to deform the slide by jamming it into a bad holster. I'd just suggest kydex instead of cordura though as far as pain-free options go. Also, if you're used to 1911s, I'd still advise you decock, then flip the safety on "fire," and then holster. Rather than leaving the weapon cocked as it's going into the holster.
  22. I had a buddy hold the part on a table and just used the smallest pin punch I could find. It scratched up the plastic, but I did get it out without an issue. Also, my feed lips are dead between three mags. I've been retention reloading, but if a mag just falls out when I'm running or something, it's just game over. Anybody sourced feed lips for the LM4 PMAGs, or is contacting KWA directly the best option at this point?
  23. Yeah, it moves very little, maybe an 1/8th normal travel. I used it for dry fire practice pretty often, so plain wear weakening the spring could be the answer.
  24. How much do any of you use double action? My WE eventually gave up the ghost with it's DA and will only hit the valve knocker in SA. I gave it up for a Glock 19. No idea if this was a QC issue, or something inherent in the TM architecture.
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