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John_234

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Everything posted by John_234

  1. Yeah, I guess so. I haven't toyed with taking up slack and letting it go too much, but that would make sense. I just tried that, and I'd probably prefer a single stage too. I'll definitely check out the mod, then. Well, that statement is coming from a 1911 background. If your trigger is too light, its not the most durable. But that's a much smaller trigger and hammer group in general, so it may not translate straight across to an AR. I just prefer not to drop below 4/3 pounds, since you also have the issue of switching between the trigger on primary and sidearm.
  2. Well, wrapping them might still be an option if that's your thing. Slow reloads shouldn't be an issue if you can cycle between sidearm and rifle. You can still reload very fast with or cover garments, too. I actually don't have much of an issue with a trigger. It's essentially a duty AR-15 trigger, isn't gritty, breaks clean. I try to avoid running a trigger that is too light; I tried a JP once that basically went off if you touched the trigger. If the trigger is too light, it tends not to be durable, anyway.
  3. Well, if that's the case you could probably just stick handwarmers into your mag pouches and/or wrap the magazines for the cold. KWAs are really nice. I just want to do the bolt catch mod on mine - that's where you add a spring and cut out a bit of the bolt catch so it releases when you charge the rifle, like an actual AR. A dude on the KWA forum also modified his hop to be adjusted without the easily-broken KWA system, which is great.
  4. Thanks for the correction.
  5. Err, I'd actually get the PMAGs for cold weather. The plastic shell is another layer of insulation for the cold to break through. Plus, they're just very nice magazines (I believe they use actual PMAG bodies.) They are heavy, but they're also very ergonomic and durable magazines, so I highly suggest them if you can find them.
  6. In my experience they're pretty hardcore magazines as far as typical variances in weather goes. California doesn't get that cold during daytime, but it is essentially a desert, so the nights are very cold and it tends to run fine.
  7. Ditto, and try removing the headband cover. If you have a larger head, they might keep you from getting a proper seal too. But I do suggest doubling up with ear pro for indoor work with Sordins anyway.
  8. Do they still vent gas if you charge the bolt before you insert the mag? I know valve knockers in the forward position can cause issues.
  9. I really, really liked the G&G when I tried it. A friend as going to buy one from Evike after the expo there, but they said the rifles were returned for some sort of design flaw? I'm not entirely sure what that was about, but delays happened and we eventually went with the LM4. But had that not happened, we wouldn't have any qualms rocking them. They're very efficient and fun rifles. How's the quality on the magazines?
  10. Lemme know how it goes, I actually want to convert my LM4 PTS into an SBR. That, or remove the FSB and turn it into a 14.5 middy carbine.
  11. Yeah, the guns do have to be designed and sized to accept them, though. On some 1911s recoil buffers are there primarily to short-stroke the gun and enhance cycling speed.
  12. Well, to clarify; SOME rifles need to be clamped down because the barrel nut is so tight. Others just need heat and a properly-fitting armorer's wrench, anything from a hairdryer to a propane torch. Here's a takedown guide: http://kwausa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8778 Discussion on the heatgun and clamp stuff: http://kwausa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9721
  13. It just doesn't cycle reliably unless the grenades are gassed, says the original owner, and the guy who bought it has yet to gas and fire it, so we really don't know if it is reliable or not.
  14. I clicked this thread because I thought someone had duplicated a Vietnam-era chicken plate - which would have been pretty decidedly odd since they were issued exclusively to chopper pilots. It does look like a neat slick carrier though, for not such a bad price tag. How padded are the plate pockets? Good vid, too.
  15. The Sordins do cap out at about 18 dB, I think. They suggest you wear them with earplugs for any sort of indoor or vehicular use. I just use mine for outdoor pistol and shotgun shooting on top of airsoft, so its never been an issue.
  16. I'd carry a Mk23 if they made kydex for them. But asking kydex makers to mold one for a Mk23 with a LAM unit tends to get you weird responses. I have a Wolf 97 LAM unit that has yet to see use in an airsoft game yet, too.
  17. Well, that's a pity when they're charging enough of a price tag to probably hand-assemble those things.
  18. I ran these for three months in my M79. They're extremely short ranged and relatively weak due to the small gas reservoir. I'd suggest changing to Madbull grenades of some sort, or maybe POMs. I had an ICS I gave to a buddy as a middleman for his airsoft purchases. Quirky little gun, doesn't cycle unless you have grenades loaded. It was only marginally reliable though, so at the end of the day I much preferred my M79 to happily chug through the six PB4s that I bought (which I got an incredible deal for - $70 for six + a Madbul 204 and a CO2 adapter.)
  19. Just be sure to look up the experiences of people who have done similar, and definitely clamp the rifle correctly. You really don't want to destroy that upper.
  20. Well, with the metal rails in the new Marui GBBs the slide is going to get faster and smoother-cycling as the paint and metal wears away. And correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't most of the damage to the plastic from the slide slamming into its rearmost limit, then the front? This is why real guns have recoil buffers in their spring housing.
  21. A) Yes. It's glued in place, so most people use a heat gun then a padded vise clamp to get it off. To replace the inner though, you need to get the barrel nut unscrewed, which is also glued in place. Some people have broken their uppers improperly messing with the barrel nut and a wrench. From what I understand, you should lock the front and rear points where the reciever pins go into a clamp and then use the barrel wrench and a heat gun. Sorry, I'm not sure about that. You should check the KWA technical forums > LM4 section for info on that.
  22. By the way, if anybody is still looking for PX4 holsters, comholsters.com made me a custom PX4F holster for $30. Very reasonable for quality of product. http://imageshack.us/a/img21/4135/px41.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img51/8166/px42.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img703/1213/px43.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img534/9569/px44.jpg Please forgive the shoddy camerawork,
  23. D: That is pretty bad.
  24. Right, but there's a difference between an improperly made or fitted slide with bad angles and a gun that is intentionally loose in tolerances.
  25. Fair enough. Correct me if I'm misunderstanding, but a slide not being tightly fitted means extra friction? On the "1911s are sloppy" point: I think you should read my earlier point more carefully. Military-style M1911s and M1911A1s were historically made with generous tolerances for reliability. You can buy M1911A1-styled guns for around $400-$600 in the US. This isn't indicative of commercial 1911s in general, and nobody claimed most 1911s are loosely fitted. H A mid-level 1911 breaking the thousand dollar mark generally has good fitting with its parts. The greater issue with 1
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