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ardrummer292

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About ardrummer292

  • Rank
    R16Z
  • Birthday 12/21/1987

Additional Information

  • Airsofter since
    2004
  • Toy collection
    TF Knight-era UKSF spec C8 CQB (based off Krytac CRB)
    TF Black-era UKSF spec C8 CQB (based off Krytac SPR)
    L119A1 SFW (based off Krytac SPR)
    Diemaco C7 (based off G&P AR15 A2 with Krytac gearbox)
    L110A1 Minimi (based off CA M249)
    MP5A5 (based off the Avalon model)
    TM P226 E2
    Cyma Glock 17 (based off CM030 AEP)
  • Most likely to say
    I'm getting too old for this *suitcase*.
  • Country
    United States

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    ardrummer292
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0
  • Skype
    ardrummer292

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
  • Interests
    Airsoft, drumming, surfing, designing kit

Recent Profile Visitors

2,498 profile views
  1. ardrummer292
    An addendum to my previous (and now archived) post: If you decide to add a hardwired boxmag (a la Bullgear): https://en.bullgear.ru/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=157 ... you may need to disable the auto-resetting fuse in order to allow the higher current flow required to power both the gearbox and the boxmag motor. - Using command 14, I went for option 8 (disable fuse and motor protect). I have a standard fuse integrated in my wiring harness, so the auto-resetting digital fuse is redundant and unnecessary.
  2. ardrummer292
    There are some proprietary parts, but nothing that I would consider high-wear or failure-prone. The gearbox itself is literally a Cyma AK V3, which can be had for $60 all in.
  3. ardrummer292
    Hoo boy, this is a helluva necropost. I absolutely still recommend this gun, even though I sold it off nearly a decade ago. It's a solid piece of kit.
  4. ardrummer292
    Surprised I didn't see this thread until now. @[CPT] ChickMcNugget, I made a google doc to help the uninitiated put together a passable UKSF Direct Action (DA) kit: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cIKNoWYmQBOBlaqoKXKszJ1iwQR-CV0UdPOzFSiE_3M/edit?usp=sharing With an accompanying rifle build guide: https://docs.google.com/document/d/15oNME4lh0wsJcoq8YvQND-ahOsxsxHjzt_EEhpm7dYg/edit?usp=sharing Tangentially related is a Counter-Revolutionary Warfare (CRW, or "black kit") build guide: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zbrVmF4BgdBTJADfReS4n1UbuiQYEBNyQ_67DXySOqU/edit?
  5. ardrummer292
    I can help you troubleshoot the source of the leak, if you like. I haven’t had to fix any leaks of my own, but I’m intimately familiar with the potential sources.
  6. ardrummer292
    Modern M870 is sold, as are all modified TM shells less 2. L74A1 price is now 478 + S/H.
  7. ardrummer292
    Addendum #3: Troubleshooting low muzzle velocity with my top-folder My previous addendum was incomplete, in that I failed to mention an ongoing issue with my second shotgun build. For some reason, I was unable to get the muzzle velocity to exceed 1J regardless of supplied pressure. The gun was functional, but not exceptional like my first shotgun build. A list of the possible culprits for my issue. The troubleshooting process took quite a bit of time, exacerbated by COVID-19 escalating my already demanding work schedule. I tried everything listed in th
  8. ardrummer292
    Time for me to slim down my collection a bit. While shotguns are a blast to use, I really don't field them often enough to warrant keeping them. Both shotguns are featured in my build thread: Modern Remington 870, kitted out a la modern SAS/UKSF: 856 + S/H Includes 20x modified TM shotshells Link to post: Old-school L74A1: 638 + S/H Includes 20x modified TM shotshells Link to post:
  9. ardrummer292
    I know they're rebranded. I want to say the OEM is BLS, but I'm not positive.
  10. ardrummer292
    I’m a fan of BLS. They’re hard enough to avoid getting chopped in my Echo 1 M240, which is quite a feat.
  11. ardrummer292
    CamelBak Heat Grip gloves are ultra durable. I don't believe they come in fingerless, but that's nothing a pair of scissors and bit of stitching can't fix.
  12. ardrummer292
    SR25s use either V2 or V2.5 gearboxes, so you don't gain anything by moving away from a G3-based build. It's pretty simple dropping in a replacement reinforced/high end gearbox like Krytac, Avalon, or something similar, so I wouldn't worry about the rather dated concerns about V2 gearbox integrity.
  13. ardrummer292
    My gun wall is actually a retail display rack. I screwed the mount bases into studs in as many places as I could find. It's quite sturdy.
  14. ardrummer292
    I had a similar issue with both my G&P PEQ-2s. I'm not a wiring-savvy guy, so I didn't attempt to crack it open and fix it. From what I understand, some of the solder joints are weak, which leads to the intermittent contact you're experiencing. It's also possible that water made its way inside. I wish I had a fix for you. I ended up getting a separate weapon light and keeping the PEQ as a strictly aesthetic accessory. I never used the laser, so it was no great loss for my needs.
  15. ardrummer292
    Good question. Hmmm... P226E2: #1 for reliability so far. It probably helps that I actually maintain it as I should. Original P226R: sold it after a few years of hard use. This is notable because I usually run handguns until they irreparably fail. Original M9: plastic fantastic and not great. The safety switches fell off. Mk23: legendary for a reason. Less of a sidearm, more of an alternate offensive weapon. G17: not very reliable, although that could be due to the previous owner's installation of a Shooter's Design aluminum slide. 1911 Foliage Warrior: was
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