ardrummer292

Perhaps the most insightful chunk of text I've read on this website. I do take slight issue with the assumption that only ex-mil folk will push themselves past the "plateau" you mention. I'm ex-mil and have civvy friends who are right there with me. Aside from that minor niggle, you are 100% spot on.

Apologies for the quadruple-post, but I feel that this video clearly illustrates the benefits (and limitations) of this mod.

Received and installed my Burst Wizard 3 today. My thoughts... Hard-wired installation is a snap, especially with the dual signal wires included. My Minimi was already wired for a Gate WARFET, so the extent of my "hard-wired installation" was unplugging the WARFET and plugging in the Burst Wizard. Absolutely brainless install. If your gun has a high rate of fire, getting the 1 round burst setting to only fire one round will probably take some work. Here's what I went through: - Using command 2, I set the burst length to one round. Upon testing, I was getting 2-3 rounds per burst. Damn. - Using command 7, I set the sensitivity to the highest number, which is 19. I was still getting 2-3 round bursts. Double damn. - Using command 11, I set the burst length to 30 ms. Still got the occasional double cycle. Better, but still damn. - Using command 11 again, I modified the burst length to 24 ms. Consistent single round "bursts" with crisp trigger response. Perfect. - Please note that, if you have to manually set the burst length, yours will almost certainly be different than mine. The correct burst length to fire a single round depends on battery voltage, motor type, spring strength, gear ratio, and a million other things that are impossible to predict. I actually had to change my burst length when I downgraded springs (27 ms was perfect for a Guarder SP120, but 24 ms was just right for a Guarder SP110). The stock 0.6 second delay between burst fire and full auto is too short to be safe in CQB, in my opinion. I really don't want to accidentally lace anyone up at close range, so I used command 3 and set it to 1.0 seconds. A bit overkill, but I'd rather be safe than labeled an *albartroth*.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but didn’t G&P recently release a pre-built version of this exact gun? EDIT I thought you were unaware of the airsoft version’s existence. Apologies, reading is hard. Link: https://www.evike.com/products/94870/

Why not have a HK416 with Avalon internals? https://www.evike.com/products/87966/

Update on the Avalon MP5. It takes Cyma MP5 tri-lug muzzles with a bit of fiddling. It’ll also fit a real Surefire grip, but be prepared to grind out the barrel supports. I managed to *barely* fit a nanoTech 11.1V 1000mAh “butterfly” LiPO in there. Trigger response with that and the newly-installed ASG CNC U-22000 motor is lovely, though.

Sometimes, you just gotta run stack into an enemy occupied building. The RAV protecc But most importantly The RAV attacc the bacc

Bit of a necropost, but I figure an update is in order. I ordered a Burst Wizard, which I intend to program with a 1 round "burst" and a 1 second delay. This will manifest as such: Upon pulling the trigger, 1 round will fire. Keeping the trigger depressed results in no additional rounds being fired for 1 second. Keeping the trigger depressed longer than 1 second results in normal full auto fire. This effectively converts the trigger into a 2-stage setup, with the difference between stages dictated by time (rather than distance pulled). I believe the 1 second delay removes any possibility of me accidentally full-autoing people in close quarters. I'll do some testing to ensure that this assumption is correct.

Absolutely nailed it. You clearly stated things that I haven't been able to put into words.

No offense taken. It's partially realism, and partially laziness. I want to have each gun set up and ready to go with no additional work needed (other than the inevitable charging of batteries and loading of mags). I also tend to loan my guns out quite a bit, so being able to hand off a fully kitted replica of [insert real-life equivalent] is nice.

I am indeed claiming the selector's gear system is an upgrade. Both selectors move perfectly in unison, with almost no slop to speak of from either side. That said, I bought this gun lightly used, so it's entirely possible that the selectors will develop some wiggle over time. Regardless, I still prefer the Avalon's system. My dislike for Navy-style lowers stems from seeing so many MP5s with missing right side selector switches. It seems that they fall off no matter what you do. This is less of a concern with the Avalon.

That's a fair question. I have accessories dedicated to each particular weapon, so that the paintjobs match. Fussy, I know, but the end result looks good. Committing accessories to a weapon also means I can secure them the proper way. Zipties for PEQs and weapon lights, paracord for optics.

It's a huge help, actually. Thank you! It's not that I'm a stickler for accuracy, I just want the box to be approximately the correct dimensions. This is so: - I can see my front sight, if mounted on my AR-variant rifle. I see you've experienced similar issues. - It will physically fit the L7A2 GPMG side rail mount I have, which is constructed specifically for the PEQ-2. In addition, I've got a couple buddies who are interested in building older rifle setups. I figured I'd do some poking around and see if there were less expensive PEQ-2 options out there.

I recently picked up one of the VFC Avalon MP5A5s from a buddy of mine. Here are my initial thoughts: The gun is externally solid, with no front-end flex whatsoever. This makes it stand out compared to any other MP5 I've handled. I attribute this rigidity to the fact that this MP5 comes with a proper outer barrel, which locks into the upper receiver with a large-diameter chamber and 4 separate bolts. This is a far cry from TM's design, which uses the cocking tube and inner barrel to keep the front end aligned. The ambidextrous selector switches are fantastic. They click into place firmly and offer about as much resistance as the selector switch on an actual firearm (so a lot compared to most airsoft guns). The thing that I like most is the completely new design of the selector switch setup. Most MP5s have a bar straight across the gearbox, with the right side selector secured to said bar with a grub screw. The Avalon setup uses a series of gears, with both selector switches bolted straight through the lower receiver. No more lost right-side selectors! There appears to be stand-off distance built in between the cocking handle shaft and the end of the cocking handle channel. You should be able to HK slap this gun with no ill effect. The locking mechanism for the sliding stock is contained entirely within the endcap of the stock itself. This makes removing the stock to access the quick-change spring much easier, especially when compared to older models, with the locking lever and spring contained in a recess on the upper receiver. It's very difficult to remove the orange tip. I ended up disassembling the front end, removing the front sling loop, unthreading the outer barrel from the chamber section, and boiling the flashhider for about 5 minutes. Only then could I loosen up the glue securing the (CW threaded) flashhider. I plan on ordering a black Cyma MP5J 3-lug flashhider to replace it. The spring-loaded body pins securing the upper to the lower receiver, as well as those securing the stock to the gun, fit exceptionally well. Removing them the first time will likely take a punch and hammer. Trigger response is terrible. I attribute this to the awful motor that comes installed as stock. I plan on dropping an ASG Ultimate U-22000 long-type motor in soon. The internals seem okay. Standard Avalon fare, with the obvious exception of an MP5 trigger being installed instead of an M4 trigger. Airseal between the piston and cylinder is great, although I opted to install a Lonex hollow piston head o-ring in the interest of longevity. The air nozzle has an internal o-ring and is 18.95 mm long, making sourcing a replacement difficult. The hopup unit is plastic and appears to function well. Nothing significant to note here, other than the likely proprietary nature of the hopup unit to function with the proprietary air nozzle. The electronics could be better. The wire used appears to be standard 18 AWG, which could stand to be upgraded. There is an ATM blade fuse holder, which resides in the battery space; someone decided that shrink-wrapping over the entire fuse holder assembly was a good idea, so I had to unwrap it and re-seal it in a way that allows access to the fuse for replacement. I didn't pay any attention to the MOSFET (located around the trigger trolley in the gearbox), but I assume it is present and functional. Fitting a battery in the handguard is likely to be a tricky affair. The presence of the outer barrel and enlarged chamber reduces the amount of battery space available, but I am confident that a "butterfly"-style 11.1V LiPO will fit. I intend on fitting my real Surefire MP5 foreend to the gun, which should not pose any unique issues other than the aforementioned battery space concerns.

I own two myself. I was hoping to avoid the expense of buying a third, especially since they tend to lose their functionality within a month.